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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 31, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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Ha! not me... though I would happily by pass the 5.12a face that Woodward and Kauk added to make the FFA in 1985 ten years after Bachar and Kauk did the FA with some "A0" to bypass the face in 1975... to get to the 5.11d to 5.11b finger crack which is outside of my league anyway.
Looking at various pictures I have, it seems to be a very popular destination, though not talked about too much. Any stories? It doesn't seem to be in the SuperTopo list (maybe it shouldn't be) but there is a listing on Mountain Project http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tips/105988033
This was the scene of an early (?) Croft solo and a great image shot by Greg Epperson, it seems the story goes that Croft down climbed it after the crack ran out at the anchors! (check out Greg's wonderful photography here: http://www.gregepperson.com/);
posting because I feel guilty about not posting climbing stuff.....
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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May 31, 2012 - 02:04am PT
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That solo always blew me away! Sorry, no personal experience on it.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 31, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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the story goes that Croft down climbed it after the crack ran out at the anchors Sounds even worse than Bachar's ordeal on Moratorium, if that's possible.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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May 31, 2012 - 09:34am PT
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i got schooled trying to lead that in the early 80's and again last year. got it on TR and still haven't returned for the lead. that route looks very benign from below, but is really hard. another amazing croft solo !
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 31, 2012 - 09:38am PT
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The crack was pretty easy for me and my girlie finger size- very positive locks sorta like max factor. I 100% blew off the face start.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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May 31, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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one of the best finger cracks in the valley! good to go up and do cramming, humdinger and tips, great spot to hit in the cooler months
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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May 31, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Robin is also supposed to be good.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 31, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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I agree with Dan, one of the best. Straight in, straight up. I onsighted Tips in 86ish w/out the wicked V5/6 boulder problem start. Just before the final 5.11 bulge there is a knob out right to step over to and completely recover. From there its gear and go. Classic line.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 31, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Tried Robin as well James, short and hard and tough to place gear.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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May 31, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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Phenom finger crack. There was an old aider when I did it to bypass the bottom face moves. They didn't look too much fun anyway.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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May 31, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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old crusty aider still there (as of this winter)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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WBraun
climber
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May 31, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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The first ascent of "Tips" was by Charlie Porter.
I thought it was Kauk and Moffet that freed the bottom aid moves to gain the finger crack.
Plus I think you probably could do it on a top rope, Ed ......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Werner, interesting recollection.
Reid has it as I wrote it...
when was Porter's FA?
I'd try it on TR, and probably would get up it eventually... looking for a better health window to push it!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 31, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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A bit OT but I remember Stubbs as being a desperate little finger wrecker. I recall trying it on a top rope without much success. That cliff is stacked with top notch splitters.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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May 31, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Dang, forgot about Stubbs. The thing was hard and only fun because it was hard. Not a great route in my book.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 31, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Ron Anderson summarizes my thoughts well.
;)
John
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 31, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Is it Dan McTwisted on Walley's photo? looking good! Not recognizable with long hear...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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at the "entrance price" of 5.12 I wouldn't have expected many visitors to the Valley to visit the climb, and it is in an "out of the way" place... but get's 2 stars in Reid's...
but if I had heard about Croft's solo bitd, I had forgotten about it...
going over cliff photos, I noticed the "white line" that indicates relatively heavy usage, no other lines in the area have that sort of distinction. So I thought to post on STForum to get a conversation going, since I have been mostly posting on the OT threads...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 31, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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Ed, I'm sitting here with no thumb crying in my coffee. Why don't we just take all these wee cracks, stuff them in Chingando, and go to the Apron, where the real men are climbing Galactic Hitch Hiker? It's thumbthing to think about.
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