Tips, 5.12a**, This and That Cliff, Yosemite Valley

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 31, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Ha! not me... though I would happily by pass the 5.12a face that Woodward and Kauk added to make the FFA in 1985 ten years after Bachar and Kauk did the FA with some "A0" to bypass the face in 1975... to get to the 5.11d to 5.11b finger crack which is outside of my league anyway.

Looking at various pictures I have, it seems to be a very popular destination, though not talked about too much. Any stories? It doesn't seem to be in the SuperTopo list (maybe it shouldn't be) but there is a listing on Mountain Project http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tips/105988033

This was the scene of an early (?) Croft solo and a great image shot by Greg Epperson, it seems the story goes that Croft down climbed it after the crack ran out at the anchors! (check out Greg's wonderful photography here: http://www.gregepperson.com/);





posting because I feel guilty about not posting climbing stuff.....
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
May 31, 2012 - 02:04am PT
That solo always blew me away! Sorry, no personal experience on it.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
May 31, 2012 - 02:34am PT
the story goes that Croft down climbed it after the crack ran out at the anchors
Sounds even worse than Bachar's ordeal on Moratorium, if that's possible.
David Wilson

climber
CA
May 31, 2012 - 09:34am PT
i got schooled trying to lead that in the early 80's and again last year. got it on TR and still haven't returned for the lead. that route looks very benign from below, but is really hard. another amazing croft solo !
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
May 31, 2012 - 09:38am PT
The crack was pretty easy for me and my girlie finger size- very positive locks sorta like max factor. I 100% blew off the face start.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
May 31, 2012 - 09:59am PT
one of the best finger cracks in the valley! good to go up and do cramming, humdinger and tips, great spot to hit in the cooler months
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
May 31, 2012 - 10:38am PT
Robin is also supposed to be good.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
May 31, 2012 - 10:54am PT
I agree with Dan, one of the best. Straight in, straight up. I onsighted Tips in 86ish w/out the wicked V5/6 boulder problem start. Just before the final 5.11 bulge there is a knob out right to step over to and completely recover. From there its gear and go. Classic line.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
May 31, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Tried Robin as well James, short and hard and tough to place gear.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
May 31, 2012 - 11:24am PT
Phenom finger crack. There was an old aider when I did it to bypass the bottom face moves. They didn't look too much fun anyway.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
May 31, 2012 - 11:31am PT
old crusty aider still there (as of this winter)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:36am PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
WBraun

climber
May 31, 2012 - 11:38am PT
The first ascent of "Tips" was by Charlie Porter.

I thought it was Kauk and Moffet that freed the bottom aid moves to gain the finger crack.

Plus I think you probably could do it on a top rope, Ed ......
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:40am PT
Werner, interesting recollection.
Reid has it as I wrote it...
when was Porter's FA?

I'd try it on TR, and probably would get up it eventually... looking for a better health window to push it!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
May 31, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
A bit OT but I remember Stubbs as being a desperate little finger wrecker. I recall trying it on a top rope without much success. That cliff is stacked with top notch splitters.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
May 31, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Dang, forgot about Stubbs. The thing was hard and only fun because it was hard. Not a great route in my book.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 31, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Ron Anderson summarizes my thoughts well.

;)

John
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 31, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Is it Dan McTwisted on Walley's photo? looking good! Not recognizable with long hear...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
at the "entrance price" of 5.12 I wouldn't have expected many visitors to the Valley to visit the climb, and it is in an "out of the way" place... but get's 2 stars in Reid's...

but if I had heard about Croft's solo bitd, I had forgotten about it...

going over cliff photos, I noticed the "white line" that indicates relatively heavy usage, no other lines in the area have that sort of distinction. So I thought to post on STForum to get a conversation going, since I have been mostly posting on the OT threads...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 31, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
Ed, I'm sitting here with no thumb crying in my coffee. Why don't we just take all these wee cracks, stuff them in Chingando, and go to the Apron, where the real men are climbing Galactic Hitch Hiker? It's thumbthing to think about.
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