Tips, 5.12a**, This and That Cliff, Yosemite Valley

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jonnywoodward

climber
Dec 27, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
This may be an appropriate place to clear up a long-standing historical error....
The free start to Tips was done on my first visit to the valley, October 1982, by finger traversing from the right. Seemed 12a back then. My partner was another Brit (Rob Ward perhaps, but not 100% certain on that).
I would concur that Robin to Gotham City is excellent and should be on the list if you're there.
jw
jonnywoodward

climber
Apr 25, 2016 - 06:10pm PT
Yup, wrong about my partner on Tips. I just found an old diary buried in a drawer, so this time it's correct.... Brian Coutney.
shylock

Social climber
mb
Sep 8, 2017 - 04:26pm PT
love tips. yeah, funny he didn't just copy it from the reid guide.. may as well. and he put that awesome photo of cramming in. oh well.

someone was hanging a rope on it in the winter, thanks. spent some quality up there. hope to check out the upper pitches soon
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 8, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
Did it long ago with the long crispy aider and loved the climbing. Doesn't hurt if your footwork is good since my fingers are fat.
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
Oct 16, 2018 - 10:34pm PT
Sent this today on lead.

Harder than Red Zinger, about the same as Butterfballs.

Butterballs is the best of the 3 though :)

Ok ......please can someone tell me where Is Robin, Gotham City, etc? How does one approach those pitches ? Thanks
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 17, 2018 - 05:23am PT
Ok ......please can someone tell me where Is Robin, Gotham City, etc? How does one approach those pitches ?
Gotham City and Robin are in all the comprehensive topo guidebooks (1982 Meyers, 1987 Meyers and Reid, 1994 Reid).
They are directly above Tips, on the next tier.
I believe you just head up the slope on the left from the base of Tips,
and then traverse right on the ledge to their base.

You can buy the 1994 Reid guide used for $20 including shipping on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Yosemite-Climbs-Free-Don-Reid/dp/0934641595
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2018 - 07:30am PT
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
Oct 17, 2018 - 10:52am PT
Thank you Ed and Clint. Anxiously awaiting a new comprehensive guidebook ;)
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