Discussion Topic |
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 31, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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Ha! not me... though I would happily by pass the 5.12a face that Woodward and Kauk added to make the FFA in 1985 ten years after Bachar and Kauk did the FA with some "A0" to bypass the face in 1975... to get to the 5.11d to 5.11b finger crack which is outside of my league anyway.
Looking at various pictures I have, it seems to be a very popular destination, though not talked about too much. Any stories? It doesn't seem to be in the SuperTopo list (maybe it shouldn't be) but there is a listing on Mountain Project http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tips/105988033
This was the scene of an early (?) Croft solo and a great image shot by Greg Epperson, it seems the story goes that Croft down climbed it after the crack ran out at the anchors! (check out Greg's wonderful photography here: http://www.gregepperson.com/);
posting because I feel guilty about not posting climbing stuff.....
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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May 31, 2012 - 02:04am PT
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That solo always blew me away! Sorry, no personal experience on it.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 31, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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the story goes that Croft down climbed it after the crack ran out at the anchors Sounds even worse than Bachar's ordeal on Moratorium, if that's possible.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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May 31, 2012 - 09:34am PT
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i got schooled trying to lead that in the early 80's and again last year. got it on TR and still haven't returned for the lead. that route looks very benign from below, but is really hard. another amazing croft solo !
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 31, 2012 - 09:38am PT
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The crack was pretty easy for me and my girlie finger size- very positive locks sorta like max factor. I 100% blew off the face start.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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May 31, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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one of the best finger cracks in the valley! good to go up and do cramming, humdinger and tips, great spot to hit in the cooler months
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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May 31, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Robin is also supposed to be good.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 31, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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I agree with Dan, one of the best. Straight in, straight up. I onsighted Tips in 86ish w/out the wicked V5/6 boulder problem start. Just before the final 5.11 bulge there is a knob out right to step over to and completely recover. From there its gear and go. Classic line.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 31, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Tried Robin as well James, short and hard and tough to place gear.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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May 31, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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Phenom finger crack. There was an old aider when I did it to bypass the bottom face moves. They didn't look too much fun anyway.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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May 31, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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old crusty aider still there (as of this winter)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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WBraun
climber
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May 31, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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The first ascent of "Tips" was by Charlie Porter.
I thought it was Kauk and Moffet that freed the bottom aid moves to gain the finger crack.
Plus I think you probably could do it on a top rope, Ed ......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Werner, interesting recollection.
Reid has it as I wrote it...
when was Porter's FA?
I'd try it on TR, and probably would get up it eventually... looking for a better health window to push it!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 31, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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A bit OT but I remember Stubbs as being a desperate little finger wrecker. I recall trying it on a top rope without much success. That cliff is stacked with top notch splitters.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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May 31, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Dang, forgot about Stubbs. The thing was hard and only fun because it was hard. Not a great route in my book.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 31, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Ron Anderson summarizes my thoughts well.
;)
John
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 31, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Is it Dan McTwisted on Walley's photo? looking good! Not recognizable with long hear...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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at the "entrance price" of 5.12 I wouldn't have expected many visitors to the Valley to visit the climb, and it is in an "out of the way" place... but get's 2 stars in Reid's...
but if I had heard about Croft's solo bitd, I had forgotten about it...
going over cliff photos, I noticed the "white line" that indicates relatively heavy usage, no other lines in the area have that sort of distinction. So I thought to post on STForum to get a conversation going, since I have been mostly posting on the OT threads...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 31, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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Ed, I'm sitting here with no thumb crying in my coffee. Why don't we just take all these wee cracks, stuff them in Chingando, and go to the Apron, where the real men are climbing Galactic Hitch Hiker? It's thumbthing to think about.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 31, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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If you loved "Robbin", what about its companion thin crack: "Batman"? I know Kauk tried it, but has it ever gone? Sure is a finger ripper!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 31, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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BITD before Kauk bouldered out the totally flaky dime edged face moves on the bottom there were TWO aiders looped together - bleached almost white after the first years - that were clipped off to (??) a baby angle or something and it was sketch going up in those rungs.
JL
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 31, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Peter habitually downclimbed many things when soloing, for obvious and sensible reasons. Others also.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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May 31, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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I just love that route! I've done it at least twice & both times I thought it was one of the best thin cracks in Yosemite.
One of those times, my then GF, Michelle, wanted to lead an easy aid crack so I thought of Tips & off we went. The mosquitoes were thick back in them thar trees. She aided up on that old aider which I believe is 1" webbing over an old piece of rope so it is pretty strong for an old piece of junkness. From there Michelle just cruised upwards on easy aid moves to the belay & I got to take a fun toprope lap on it. Good stuff.
Another time I did Gotham City with Eric Ericksson. That was cool but we got shut down on Robin. I think that same day I gave Stubs a try & failed miserably while bloodying my fingers in that crack. If Stubs was cleaner it might be fun but it is in no way near as good as Tips.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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May 31, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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That looks like a truly magical climb.
I have all respect to any who have done it.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Walleye, this is the best i can find at the moment. the better half cruising red zinger 5.11d. i know it has alot to do with finger size, but red zinger seemed a bit more difficult, with more powerful moves.
i liked tips because it didnt seem as steep and i could use my feet a bit better, and i liked how it was fingers, fingers and more fingers, that seemed to go on forever.
such a beauty, (and the climb also)
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Definately Woodward and not Moffett.Stubbs is great and hard.
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jsj
climber
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Scram is an amazing route as well.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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I'm serious in asking in at least part of this.
I don't thin I wanna try this thin, but just to satisfy my curious streak, is this so thin that it thins out the ranks of those who thin they can climb this? And does it over hang at all or is it dead vert or is it all done on photoshop?
I really cannot tell if it is or is not vert. It seems like it is 89ish, like Stigma? Never have I set foot or hand to this cliff that I can recal.
Walleye, can you comment on ways to achieve really good shots that establish the relative verticallity of a rout?
Two l's in that word, just like in Walleye. Who knew? Spellchick rules but doesn't always work--"rout" will stand. So does accuracy rule, hence my straight up question.)
Ed, I'm looking out for you--"history," every so often, is inaccurate. And the camera both reveals and hides at the same time' and so we thin we are informed but only misled. Dig?
Good threadeD.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dan agree on Zinger being just a little harder than Tips but it is just a couple of three moves vs the beauty of endless locking of Tips.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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One of the best finger cracks anywhere - I love this route.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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I think I recall seeing a wide roof crack at This and That if my memory isn't too shot.
The last time I was up there was in the mid eighties and I believe It sits at the left edge of the cliff. It looked really quality and Im sure it must have been done by now. I think it is up on a tier, but fairly low to the ground (maybe 20 or 25 feet). The roof itself is maybe 12 feet long and split by a 7 or 8 inch crack. After the lip the wide continues for about 15 or 20 more feet.
It looked like it would be a brutal slugfest. Anybody have knowledge of this thing?
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Starting at the bottom:
hard fingery traversing moves (12a, hah!) then you clip the pin, start pasting feet (still no crack) and moving up on thin locks, placing gear from a very strenuous position, then get to good jams.
A few years ago I took a good look and went for the aider. Found the crux a puzzle that did not easily unlock even once I was hanging. Upper finger crack is about as straightforward as they come in the Valley.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 14, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Went up yesterday (4/13) and while it was warm, it wasn't just a day to take the gear for a walk. Fantastic climbing...
...but it did take a bite.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 14, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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30 minute shoes?
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 14, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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@ JBro: I got in two laps, one in the TCs and one on the .5 hr program shoes. The latter are nice but won't edge to save your life.
@ JHedge: Thanks for the, uh, tip, on Bad Ass Baby. Never been over there.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 14, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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nice job Marty!
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peter croft
climber
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Apr 14, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
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Had to pipe in and say that in no way is this comparable to John's on sight solo of the Moratorium. I had done Tips before and knew I'd have to down climb from the anchors. John's solo was in a whole other league. And Tami's right, that bat had it in for me. Another time soloing it a bat (probably the same one) chased me up and down trying to nibble on my fingers - little vampire bastard.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Apr 14, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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Such an amazing king line
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Apr 14, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Another time soloing it a bat (probably the same one) chased me up and down trying to nibble on my fingers - little vampire bastard.
Woah!
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 14, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Free soloing "Tips" and down climbing from the anchors is way the fuk out there.
Moratorium only has a couple of dicey moves.
Croft is just being humble pie ......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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Tips 5.12a FA 1975 John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Robin 5.12b FA 1981 Bill Price, Tony Yaniro
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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Bachar was always scared of loose sh!t on climbs.
Something moves and and he'd wig out.
That's why he was so fried on the Moratorium.
That little flake moved when you stand on it at the crux.
I believe it's long gone now.
Me and Bachar once both free soled the Northeast Buttress of Higher together.
We get up to that loose block up there just before the upper traverse pitch and he tells me it made him nervous and he won't solo the climb anymore because of that block.
WTF man ... that block ain't going anywhere, it just moves if you yard on it wrong.
But that was it .....
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 15, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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The bouldery traverse start into the crack is a tad sharp and crimpy, but it's all there. The fixed aider itself may get in your way though. The 12a is only about 2 moves. I went up the aider to put myself on TR and rehearsed that sequence a couple times, then pulled the rope and tossed the aider and fired it. I'd argue that this is maybe the most aesthetic cragging splitter in the valley, soaring up a perfectly clean face.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 15, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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For those of you who get around, how does Tips compare with, say, Boney Fingers or Tree Line at Whitney Portal? It felt a lot more textured and less pinned out than The Pirate at Suicide and a lot less painful than Equinox at JT. I'm not talking grades, just aesthetics and quality of movement.
Speaking of bold solos, Peter, didn't you solo or back off soloing Equinox*?
*see 3:50 for the real tofu.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 23, 2013 - 01:36am PT
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So I finally got on this thing today thinking Valley 5.12a, shouldn't be too big a deal.
Holy Shit!!! .12a this thing ain't. Only in the most delusional of minds. I about dumped it into that big rock at the start. Zero pro, ratty aider in my way = not cool.
Anyway, survived that sh#t show and got into the crack. If the start of that is .11d then it's the hardest .11d I've climbed in the valley by far, and I've climbed a lot of .11d's.
As for the rest of it. No moves harder then .11c but nothing easier than .11b is how I'd describe that.
Ended up TRing the start and working the moves. It's at least a V5/6 boulder problem. Though only a couple moves that still makes it about .12c.
Did I get spanked, yes, am I bitter, no! But lets start calling this thing what it is. A .12c unprotected boulder problem into solid .12a tips.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Dec 23, 2013 - 02:25am PT
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Remember rapping in and setting Tips up as a TR during the fall of 1983 and doing a couple laps on the crack above the ratty old sling. Is it still the same old ratty sling today? That thing must be really pretty ratty by now!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 23, 2013 - 03:26am PT
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Would the start be reasonable with a few crash pads? heh.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 09:53am PT
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Salamanizer - I haven't tried the bottom 12a, but I agree that's a hard ass 11d crux with solid 11 above
The sling is probably fine because it appears to be two layers of tubular webbing, one threaded inside the other with the outer fully protecting the inner. These attach to a perfect arrow in a pocket - probably all bomber
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 23, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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A crash pad would be a good idea.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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A classic. The 11d is just a couple of moves then you're back to less than vertical. An awesome finger crack - as good as it gets.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 23, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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Thats how I remember it. Gear it from a good "stance", crank off a couple of pulls and you can get over your feet. The upper crux is easier and you can fully recover on a knob stance right of the crack before gunning to the chains.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 23, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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I thought it was pretty desperate also with my fat fingers. The .12a rating is from the top of the aid sling I think (wish). Then I saw a Truckee crack master onsite it. Can't remember his name though.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
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Apr 21, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
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Tips Bump!
Should have taped my fingers!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Apr 21, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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Well, the first time I did it...wait...that wasn't me...
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 21, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Insane thin crack bump. Great stories in this thread. Waaaaay out of my league, but cool to get some history on.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 21, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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Don't tape, you won't get the jams
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 21, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Rad.
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peter croft
climber
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Apr 22, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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the story goes that Croft down climbed it after the crack ran out at the anchors
The way I heard it, he encountered a move he didn't like, so he reversed under his guiding philosophy of don't solo up what you can't solo down.
Thats what I heard anyhoo.
Thanks Bruce, but I did reach the anchors. Once there, though, it was actually my more important guiding philosophy of never rappelling without a rope.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 22, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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Rad.
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Dec 27, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
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This may be an appropriate place to clear up a long-standing historical error....
The free start to Tips was done on my first visit to the valley, October 1982, by finger traversing from the right. Seemed 12a back then. My partner was another Brit (Rob Ward perhaps, but not 100% certain on that).
I would concur that Robin to Gotham City is excellent and should be on the list if you're there.
jw
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Apr 25, 2016 - 06:10pm PT
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Yup, wrong about my partner on Tips. I just found an old diary buried in a drawer, so this time it's correct.... Brian Coutney.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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love tips. yeah, funny he didn't just copy it from the reid guide.. may as well. and he put that awesome photo of cramming in. oh well.
someone was hanging a rope on it in the winter, thanks. spent some quality up there. hope to check out the upper pitches soon
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Did it long ago with the long crispy aider and loved the climbing. Doesn't hurt if your footwork is good since my fingers are fat.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 16, 2018 - 10:34pm PT
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Sent this today on lead.
Harder than Red Zinger, about the same as Butterfballs.
Butterballs is the best of the 3 though :)
Ok ......please can someone tell me where Is Robin, Gotham City, etc? How does one approach those pitches ? Thanks
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 17, 2018 - 05:23am PT
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Ok ......please can someone tell me where Is Robin, Gotham City, etc? How does one approach those pitches ? Gotham City and Robin are in all the comprehensive topo guidebooks (1982 Meyers, 1987 Meyers and Reid, 1994 Reid).
They are directly above Tips, on the next tier.
I believe you just head up the slope on the left from the base of Tips,
and then traverse right on the ledge to their base.
You can buy the 1994 Reid guide used for $20 including shipping on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Yosemite-Climbs-Free-Don-Reid/dp/0934641595
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2018 - 07:30am PT
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 17, 2018 - 10:52am PT
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Thank you Ed and Clint. Anxiously awaiting a new comprehensive guidebook ;)
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