Tips, 5.12a**, This and That Cliff, Yosemite Valley

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Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
May 31, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
If you loved "Robbin", what about its companion thin crack: "Batman"? I know Kauk tried it, but has it ever gone? Sure is a finger ripper!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 31, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
BITD before Kauk bouldered out the totally flaky dime edged face moves on the bottom there were TWO aiders looped together - bleached almost white after the first years - that were clipped off to (??) a baby angle or something and it was sketch going up in those rungs.

JL
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 31, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Peter habitually downclimbed many things when soloing, for obvious and sensible reasons. Others also.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
May 31, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
I just love that route! I've done it at least twice & both times I thought it was one of the best thin cracks in Yosemite.

One of those times, my then GF, Michelle, wanted to lead an easy aid crack so I thought of Tips & off we went. The mosquitoes were thick back in them thar trees. She aided up on that old aider which I believe is 1" webbing over an old piece of rope so it is pretty strong for an old piece of junkness. From there Michelle just cruised upwards on easy aid moves to the belay & I got to take a fun toprope lap on it. Good stuff.

Another time I did Gotham City with Eric Ericksson. That was cool but we got shut down on Robin. I think that same day I gave Stubs a try & failed miserably while bloodying my fingers in that crack. If Stubs was cleaner it might be fun but it is in no way near as good as Tips.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
May 31, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
That looks like a truly magical climb.


I have all respect to any who have done it.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Jun 1, 2012 - 10:31am PT
Walleye, this is the best i can find at the moment. the better half cruising red zinger 5.11d. i know it has alot to do with finger size, but red zinger seemed a bit more difficult, with more powerful moves.
i liked tips because it didnt seem as steep and i could use my feet a bit better, and i liked how it was fingers, fingers and more fingers, that seemed to go on forever.
such a beauty, (and the climb also)
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Jun 1, 2012 - 11:29am PT
Definately Woodward and not Moffett.Stubbs is great and hard.
jsj

climber
Jun 1, 2012 - 11:53am PT
Scram is an amazing route as well.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 1, 2012 - 11:54am PT
I'm serious in asking in at least part of this.

I don't thin I wanna try this thin, but just to satisfy my curious streak, is this so thin that it thins out the ranks of those who thin they can climb this? And does it over hang at all or is it dead vert or is it all done on photoshop?

I really cannot tell if it is or is not vert. It seems like it is 89ish, like Stigma? Never have I set foot or hand to this cliff that I can recal.

Walleye, can you comment on ways to achieve really good shots that establish the relative verticallity of a rout?
Two l's in that word, just like in Walleye. Who knew? Spellchick rules but doesn't always work--"rout" will stand. So does accuracy rule, hence my straight up question.)


Ed, I'm looking out for you--"history," every so often, is inaccurate. And the camera both reveals and hides at the same time' and so we thin we are informed but only misled. Dig?

Good threadeD.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jun 1, 2012 - 11:56am PT
Dan agree on Zinger being just a little harder than Tips but it is just a couple of three moves vs the beauty of endless locking of Tips.
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Jun 1, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
One of the best finger cracks anywhere - I love this route.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jun 1, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
I think I recall seeing a wide roof crack at This and That if my memory isn't too shot.

The last time I was up there was in the mid eighties and I believe It sits at the left edge of the cliff. It looked really quality and Im sure it must have been done by now. I think it is up on a tier, but fairly low to the ground (maybe 20 or 25 feet). The roof itself is maybe 12 feet long and split by a 7 or 8 inch crack. After the lip the wide continues for about 15 or 20 more feet.

It looked like it would be a brutal slugfest. Anybody have knowledge of this thing?
tarek

climber
berkeley
Jun 1, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
Starting at the bottom:
hard fingery traversing moves (12a, hah!) then you clip the pin, start pasting feet (still no crack) and moving up on thin locks, placing gear from a very strenuous position, then get to good jams.

A few years ago I took a good look and went for the aider. Found the crux a puzzle that did not easily unlock even once I was hanging. Upper finger crack is about as straightforward as they come in the Valley.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Went up yesterday (4/13) and while it was warm, it wasn't just a day to take the gear for a walk. Fantastic climbing...
...but it did take a bite.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
30 minute shoes?
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
@ JBro: I got in two laps, one in the TCs and one on the .5 hr program shoes. The latter are nice but won't edge to save your life.

@ JHedge: Thanks for the, uh, tip, on Bad Ass Baby. Never been over there.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
nice job Marty!
peter croft

climber
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Had to pipe in and say that in no way is this comparable to John's on sight solo of the Moratorium. I had done Tips before and knew I'd have to down climb from the anchors. John's solo was in a whole other league. And Tami's right, that bat had it in for me. Another time soloing it a bat (probably the same one) chased me up and down trying to nibble on my fingers - little vampire bastard.
msiddens

Trad climber
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Such an amazing king line
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Another time soloing it a bat (probably the same one) chased me up and down trying to nibble on my fingers - little vampire bastard.

Woah!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 68 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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