Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
May 31, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
|
If you loved "Robbin", what about its companion thin crack: "Batman"? I know Kauk tried it, but has it ever gone? Sure is a finger ripper!
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
May 31, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
|
BITD before Kauk bouldered out the totally flaky dime edged face moves on the bottom there were TWO aiders looped together - bleached almost white after the first years - that were clipped off to (??) a baby angle or something and it was sketch going up in those rungs.
JL
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
May 31, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
|
Peter habitually downclimbed many things when soloing, for obvious and sensible reasons. Others also.
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
May 31, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
|
I just love that route! I've done it at least twice & both times I thought it was one of the best thin cracks in Yosemite.
One of those times, my then GF, Michelle, wanted to lead an easy aid crack so I thought of Tips & off we went. The mosquitoes were thick back in them thar trees. She aided up on that old aider which I believe is 1" webbing over an old piece of rope so it is pretty strong for an old piece of junkness. From there Michelle just cruised upwards on easy aid moves to the belay & I got to take a fun toprope lap on it. Good stuff.
Another time I did Gotham City with Eric Ericksson. That was cool but we got shut down on Robin. I think that same day I gave Stubs a try & failed miserably while bloodying my fingers in that crack. If Stubs was cleaner it might be fun but it is in no way near as good as Tips.
|
|
Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
|
|
May 31, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
|
That looks like a truly magical climb.
I have all respect to any who have done it.
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
Walleye, this is the best i can find at the moment. the better half cruising red zinger 5.11d. i know it has alot to do with finger size, but red zinger seemed a bit more difficult, with more powerful moves.
i liked tips because it didnt seem as steep and i could use my feet a bit better, and i liked how it was fingers, fingers and more fingers, that seemed to go on forever.
such a beauty, (and the climb also)
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
|
|
Definately Woodward and not Moffett.Stubbs is great and hard.
|
|
jsj
climber
|
|
Scram is an amazing route as well.
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
|
|
I'm serious in asking in at least part of this.
I don't thin I wanna try this thin, but just to satisfy my curious streak, is this so thin that it thins out the ranks of those who thin they can climb this? And does it over hang at all or is it dead vert or is it all done on photoshop?
I really cannot tell if it is or is not vert. It seems like it is 89ish, like Stigma? Never have I set foot or hand to this cliff that I can recal.
Walleye, can you comment on ways to achieve really good shots that establish the relative verticallity of a rout?
Two l's in that word, just like in Walleye. Who knew? Spellchick rules but doesn't always work--"rout" will stand. So does accuracy rule, hence my straight up question.)
Ed, I'm looking out for you--"history," every so often, is inaccurate. And the camera both reveals and hides at the same time' and so we thin we are informed but only misled. Dig?
Good threadeD.
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
|
Dan agree on Zinger being just a little harder than Tips but it is just a couple of three moves vs the beauty of endless locking of Tips.
|
|
G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
|
|
One of the best finger cracks anywhere - I love this route.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
I think I recall seeing a wide roof crack at This and That if my memory isn't too shot.
The last time I was up there was in the mid eighties and I believe It sits at the left edge of the cliff. It looked really quality and Im sure it must have been done by now. I think it is up on a tier, but fairly low to the ground (maybe 20 or 25 feet). The roof itself is maybe 12 feet long and split by a 7 or 8 inch crack. After the lip the wide continues for about 15 or 20 more feet.
It looked like it would be a brutal slugfest. Anybody have knowledge of this thing?
|
|
tarek
climber
berkeley
|
|
Starting at the bottom:
hard fingery traversing moves (12a, hah!) then you clip the pin, start pasting feet (still no crack) and moving up on thin locks, placing gear from a very strenuous position, then get to good jams.
A few years ago I took a good look and went for the aider. Found the crux a puzzle that did not easily unlock even once I was hanging. Upper finger crack is about as straightforward as they come in the Valley.
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
|
Went up yesterday (4/13) and while it was warm, it wasn't just a day to take the gear for a walk. Fantastic climbing...
...but it did take a bite.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
|
30 minute shoes?
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
|
@ JBro: I got in two laps, one in the TCs and one on the .5 hr program shoes. The latter are nice but won't edge to save your life.
@ JHedge: Thanks for the, uh, tip, on Bad Ass Baby. Never been over there.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
|
nice job Marty!
|
|
peter croft
climber
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
|
Had to pipe in and say that in no way is this comparable to John's on sight solo of the Moratorium. I had done Tips before and knew I'd have to down climb from the anchors. John's solo was in a whole other league. And Tami's right, that bat had it in for me. Another time soloing it a bat (probably the same one) chased me up and down trying to nibble on my fingers - little vampire bastard.
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
|
Such an amazing king line
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
|
Another time soloing it a bat (probably the same one) chased me up and down trying to nibble on my fingers - little vampire bastard.
Woah!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|