40 Years Ago – Peter Haan: Salathe Solo & The Hourglass

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Gene

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 12, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
Time flies. 1971 was quite a breakthrough season for PH! I remember reading about the Salathe Solo at the time and having my mind blown. This was back in the day before cams, few if any nuts, and a Jumar self belay. El Cap was much higher and steeper back then.

I heard about the FFA of the West side of the Hourglass decades later. Very, very bold given the tools of the day. As an aside, I think Guido was on the FA of this line.

Props to Peter for some wild and crazy climbs back in that transitional time at the waning of the Golden Age and dawn of the free climbing revolution.




Do you have any Salathe pictures Peter? Remember what your rack was?

g
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 12, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
Remember when Peter showed up here and JDF was going, "WTF is this guy?"

How come today's climbers don't read?
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 12, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Gene... You piqued my interest with your Guido statement and I looked in Roper... You are right! I had no idea. Gotta ask him about that one!

As for PH and his boldness... Salathé solo in '71 was eye-blinking. How old were you Peter... Still a teenager all alone on the Cap with a rack of pins and all the time in the world. So cool!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 12, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
Peter Haan kicks ass!

I ran into him two weeks ago he was kicking ass then.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 12, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
After le_bruce's trip report from our adventure, there is nice commentary and historical pics from Peter and others on Hourglass Right:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Bouted-on-Hourglass-Right-Side-TR/t11027n.html

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 12, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
Peter's Salathe solo made a big impression on me then. I was all like -
"Geez, what's the use of being mortal?"
Gene

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
In 1971 I was a wee lad of 18 going to school in Turlock, CA. One day I rode my Huffy 10-speed the 15 miles up to Modesto to buy some sweet blue suede climbing shoes. The shop I went to was in the basement of a paint store on Tenth Street. I plunked down my $20 or so bucks and rode back home. When I got back my fresh new copy of Summit magazine greeted me. I read an article about some guy soloing the Salathe. ‘Peter Haan’ says I. ‘That sounds familiar.’ I looked at the receipt for my RRs and found that I had the lad’s autograph. I next saw Peter at this year’s Facelift.

g
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 12, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
Dr F....uh, with due respect, no sir, Gene is right. I worked for Royal in Modesto off and on back then and did help Gene that day he writes of just above. It was when RR and Liz were just starting and were headquartered in the basement of Valley Paint Co. And the Peter Haan on Supertopo lo these ten years is me as well as the person that Gene is discussing in this thread.

I DO get confused occasionally with the other Peter Haan who was on the Squaw Valley ski patrol with Bridwell and Schmitz et al back then. He did climb too, but not that much. He and Schmitz did the FA of "One Hand Clapping" Donner Summit area, for example and people usually associate me (the Real) with that climb, erroneously. Haan is an unusual name in the States but in Holland there are several pages of us in the Amsterdam phone book for example---it is quite an ordinary Dutch last name.

Now on to other matters:

Simon: I was 22. It was a surreal amount of work I tied into, certainly. Insane and in July heat. Five and half days.

Piton: Yeah!! I remember that! How fun that you remember! JDF was trying to go all ‘Supertopo Doorman’ on me. V. Fun. I guess Russ would say, "all death panel", though.

On another important aspect of this, it has become clear with Rick Rieder’s account of the second ascent, that the ‘second free ascent’ was not a valid free ascent; Bridwell being a weenie that day, established a hanging belay 40 feet off the ground just below the roof to make a ‘pseudo-legitimate’ rest place for working on the tough undercling just above. Note that the entire pitch (ground to the bolted belay) was only about 120 feet and there was no needing an intermediate belay for reasons of logistics, friction, etc.

Here is Rik Rieder writing (rider) :

I was on the second ascent of Hourglass Left Side, and if I was to sum it up, I'd say that I experienced a humbling opposite of Peter's over-the-top immortal first free ascent. I think my story is useful mainly to offer yet another look at the depth of Bridwell's climbing. For he triumphed on that day. As for me, it was a sobering footstep into the world of the real heavy-duty climbers, and I had to downscale my own self-image as a result. All good, because I do subscribe to "know thyself". And "the truth shall set you free"...
I am not a heavyweight.

Two features: 1) I witnessed an all-time display of the power and skill of Jim Bridwell's climbing. 2) I realized I was finally out of my league. To lead that undercling pitch represents a truly cosmic commitment which separates visionaries and masters of the art, from mere climbers.

Anyway, here are the few details I can remember from our climb. (around '74 I'm guessing? Someone correct me...)
Bridwell approached me one day and asked if I'd like to try the Hourglass with him. Naturally, I was excited and eager. Maybe I had done some routes which led Jim to view me as solid on the runout. Most likely was that he was giving me a chance to expand to a greater level. I was just an aspiring hard-man/boy and still looking all around. I had more ambition than focus, probably.

So Jim revealed the existence of a secret training boulder, not far from Camp 4, to the west. A nice walk through the woods brought us to a boulder configuration which had a strenuous undercling several yards in length. I think it was a pretty good simulation of the real thing. We would go there secretly and do laps.

When we felt ready, we went up to the climb, maybe after a couple weeks training on the boulder. Jim led up to the start of the undercling, and hung a belay at the original bolt, where the vertical route becomes horizontal to the left. Seems like he might have been able to magic some back-up nuts in somewhere, but I'm not sure.

Then he brought me up, and offered me the lead. It was what I really wanted, but I also would have let him go first if he mentioned it. So I start going out the undercling. It was spectacular, the geometry of the rock, the exposure, and the gymnastics. I felt pretty solid out to the little rest bump, about 15 ft out or so. I may have tried to get a 6 inch tube chock to stay in, don't remember. Don't think I got one to work.

Then I assessed my situation. Factors: increasing arm-and-body pump; run-out and potential falling onto the belay; and the mortal bashing. I recieved a no-go from the little guy in my head. Even though it looked relatively short distance to the edge, I had doubts about staying in control. I reversed the undercling back to Bridwell at the bolt. I was thinking, maybe if he bails too, I'll get another chance.

So Jim went out on it, looked good, and also paused at the rest bump. Again, he might have fiddled with pro and been more successful, but I just don't remember. We'll have to ask him. Finally he decides to go for it. I think he tested the first move or two, coming back to the rest bump; calculating moves versus remaining strength. When he went for it, he might have started getting shaky reaching the edge and turning the corner into the vertical wide. Don't remember how he transferred into offwidth, or did he actually lieback around the corner? I was so totally gripped, and on max alert to catch the killer fall, yet I also believed he would do it using his tenacity, and vast knowledge of the applied physics of the human body.

What a giant relief when he reached the belay! My turn following was nothing, with the top rope, and the fall relatively safe. Don't remember how I turned the corner either. Last thing I remember was my ego having a little tantrum at not leading the 2nd free ascent. I totally ran out the next 5.8 chimney pitch. When Jim got up to me on the top, he said something like -well, that was a little uncool, wasn't it? (something like that) He was acknowledging my childish behavior, but at the same time he conveyed that it was okay, and he understood my frustration.

Occasionally falling short of one's goals is as much a part of climbing as is setting new standards; just part of the game. I have no regrets about the past, and am happy to be alive today.

rik r
his link:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=199688&msg=1190023#msg1190023
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 12, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
There's a fine article about the FFA of the left side of the Hourglass, by the authentic original Peter Haan, in Alpinist #35. Somewhat building on his post here.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/199688/Photos-of-The-Hourglass-Left

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/199325/Crackjacks-from-1964

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/247504/First-Solo-Ascent-of-the-Salathe-Wall-AACJournal-1972
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 12, 2011 - 05:15pm PT

Bump for this. Peter--well, well ahead of his time.
Still is!!!!
Gene

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
Bumping my own thread. I know.............





































I'm gonna die!!!!!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 17, 2011 - 11:40am PT
Wowsa....beautiful pics and great backstory. Love that Hourglass piece of rock...I think it is lovely.

Susan
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 17, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
Now that we got the wings of steals second ascent out of the way ...
Isn't it time we see some good reportage on modern ascents of the Hourglass?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 17, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
Yeah T-babe. Werner has done it five times for example.
Gene

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
Haan's Solo bump
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 25, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
Guido just told me he was 16 years old on the FA of Hourglass! Kamps took 7 hours to lead the A4 pitch (as it was on the FA) with multiple tied off bongs placed endwise. I am sure it was a great learning experience to watch Kamps lead that thing!
Mimi

climber
Oct 25, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
Peter, you are one cool and badass mofo! The FA was quite the feat but you soloing it when you did is way out there. Really missed seeing you at the Salathe' gig.
Gene

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
Peter,

This thread is screaming for some pictures. If you have any, please????

g
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 25, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
Okay. Here is the first ever "Story through Time":

First year of life, Honolulu, behind the University of Hawaii:

Age 2-3, on Kilauea with sister and mother:

Age 6:

Age 10, Ashland Oregon motel:

Age 12, Berkeley:

Just before I began climbing, 1962. Family passport photo for first trip to Europe:

1964: Age 16, Pinnacles Nat Monument:

Age 18, Clearlake:

Age 20, Top of Tenaya Canyon after ascending it:

Age 20, with Galen Rowell at Indian Rock, photo by Darwin Alonso:

1971 series:
Meatgrinder, fourth ascent, photo by Bruce Steakly:


Sacherer Crackerer:

Vendetta, fourth pitch 1970:

At the hot springs in Tuolumne two days before the Hourglass FFA 1971, photo by Darwin Alonso


1974 series:
Cramming, with Chris Vandiver:
New Dimensions:

1975 series: Lazy Bum, Yosemite:
Aptos, CA:

Half Dome, after Call of the Wild FA, after four days with John Bragg:


1976/77 in Joshua Tree with Tom Carter:

1980, Soquel with Juanita, New Years:

1990: Portugal, Sintra:

1995: My equestrian center with partner Tobin, Watsonville:
Training a horse at the center:

1998: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz:

1999: Thanksgiving Aptos:

1994: National Museum of Natural History, Dublin, Ireland:

3/2000 base of Hourglass in a light snow storm:

2007 in San Francisco at Happy Hour:

2011, April: Flanders Fest:
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 25, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
More than I am prepared at this time to digest.

(You too?) lol
Messages 1 - 20 of total 35 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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