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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 12, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Time flies. 1971 was quite a breakthrough season for PH! I remember reading about the Salathe Solo at the time and having my mind blown. This was back in the day before cams, few if any nuts, and a Jumar self belay. El Cap was much higher and steeper back then.
I heard about the FFA of the West side of the Hourglass decades later. Very, very bold given the tools of the day. As an aside, I think Guido was on the FA of this line.
Props to Peter for some wild and crazy climbs back in that transitional time at the waning of the Golden Age and dawn of the free climbing revolution.
Do you have any Salathe pictures Peter? Remember what your rack was?
g
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 12, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
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Remember when Peter showed up here and JDF was going, "WTF is this guy?"
How come today's climbers don't read?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Oct 12, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
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Gene... You piqued my interest with your Guido statement and I looked in Roper... You are right! I had no idea. Gotta ask him about that one!
As for PH and his boldness... Salathé solo in '71 was eye-blinking. How old were you Peter... Still a teenager all alone on the Cap with a rack of pins and all the time in the world. So cool!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 12, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
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Peter Haan kicks ass!
I ran into him two weeks ago he was kicking ass then.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 12, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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Peter's Salathe solo made a big impression on me then. I was all like -
"Geez, what's the use of being mortal?"
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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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In 1971 I was a wee lad of 18 going to school in Turlock, CA. One day I rode my Huffy 10-speed the 15 miles up to Modesto to buy some sweet blue suede climbing shoes. The shop I went to was in the basement of a paint store on Tenth Street. I plunked down my $20 or so bucks and rode back home. When I got back my fresh new copy of Summit magazine greeted me. I read an article about some guy soloing the Salathe. ‘Peter Haan’ says I. ‘That sounds familiar.’ I looked at the receipt for my RRs and found that I had the lad’s autograph. I next saw Peter at this year’s Facelift.
g
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 12, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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Dr F....uh, with due respect, no sir, Gene is right. I worked for Royal in Modesto off and on back then and did help Gene that day he writes of just above. It was when RR and Liz were just starting and were headquartered in the basement of Valley Paint Co. And the Peter Haan on Supertopo lo these ten years is me as well as the person that Gene is discussing in this thread.
I DO get confused occasionally with the other Peter Haan who was on the Squaw Valley ski patrol with Bridwell and Schmitz et al back then. He did climb too, but not that much. He and Schmitz did the FA of "One Hand Clapping" Donner Summit area, for example and people usually associate me (the Real) with that climb, erroneously. Haan is an unusual name in the States but in Holland there are several pages of us in the Amsterdam phone book for example---it is quite an ordinary Dutch last name.
Now on to other matters:
Simon: I was 22. It was a surreal amount of work I tied into, certainly. Insane and in July heat. Five and half days.
Piton: Yeah!! I remember that! How fun that you remember! JDF was trying to go all ‘Supertopo Doorman’ on me. V. Fun. I guess Russ would say, "all death panel", though.
On another important aspect of this, it has become clear with Rick Rieder’s account of the second ascent, that the ‘second free ascent’ was not a valid free ascent; Bridwell being a weenie that day, established a hanging belay 40 feet off the ground just below the roof to make a ‘pseudo-legitimate’ rest place for working on the tough undercling just above. Note that the entire pitch (ground to the bolted belay) was only about 120 feet and there was no needing an intermediate belay for reasons of logistics, friction, etc.
Here is Rik Rieder writing (rider) :
I was on the second ascent of Hourglass Left Side, and if I was to sum it up, I'd say that I experienced a humbling opposite of Peter's over-the-top immortal first free ascent. I think my story is useful mainly to offer yet another look at the depth of Bridwell's climbing. For he triumphed on that day. As for me, it was a sobering footstep into the world of the real heavy-duty climbers, and I had to downscale my own self-image as a result. All good, because I do subscribe to "know thyself". And "the truth shall set you free"...
I am not a heavyweight.
Two features: 1) I witnessed an all-time display of the power and skill of Jim Bridwell's climbing. 2) I realized I was finally out of my league. To lead that undercling pitch represents a truly cosmic commitment which separates visionaries and masters of the art, from mere climbers.
Anyway, here are the few details I can remember from our climb. (around '74 I'm guessing? Someone correct me...)
Bridwell approached me one day and asked if I'd like to try the Hourglass with him. Naturally, I was excited and eager. Maybe I had done some routes which led Jim to view me as solid on the runout. Most likely was that he was giving me a chance to expand to a greater level. I was just an aspiring hard-man/boy and still looking all around. I had more ambition than focus, probably.
So Jim revealed the existence of a secret training boulder, not far from Camp 4, to the west. A nice walk through the woods brought us to a boulder configuration which had a strenuous undercling several yards in length. I think it was a pretty good simulation of the real thing. We would go there secretly and do laps.
When we felt ready, we went up to the climb, maybe after a couple weeks training on the boulder. Jim led up to the start of the undercling, and hung a belay at the original bolt, where the vertical route becomes horizontal to the left. Seems like he might have been able to magic some back-up nuts in somewhere, but I'm not sure.
Then he brought me up, and offered me the lead. It was what I really wanted, but I also would have let him go first if he mentioned it. So I start going out the undercling. It was spectacular, the geometry of the rock, the exposure, and the gymnastics. I felt pretty solid out to the little rest bump, about 15 ft out or so. I may have tried to get a 6 inch tube chock to stay in, don't remember. Don't think I got one to work.
Then I assessed my situation. Factors: increasing arm-and-body pump; run-out and potential falling onto the belay; and the mortal bashing. I recieved a no-go from the little guy in my head. Even though it looked relatively short distance to the edge, I had doubts about staying in control. I reversed the undercling back to Bridwell at the bolt. I was thinking, maybe if he bails too, I'll get another chance.
So Jim went out on it, looked good, and also paused at the rest bump. Again, he might have fiddled with pro and been more successful, but I just don't remember. We'll have to ask him. Finally he decides to go for it. I think he tested the first move or two, coming back to the rest bump; calculating moves versus remaining strength. When he went for it, he might have started getting shaky reaching the edge and turning the corner into the vertical wide. Don't remember how he transferred into offwidth, or did he actually lieback around the corner? I was so totally gripped, and on max alert to catch the killer fall, yet I also believed he would do it using his tenacity, and vast knowledge of the applied physics of the human body.
What a giant relief when he reached the belay! My turn following was nothing, with the top rope, and the fall relatively safe. Don't remember how I turned the corner either. Last thing I remember was my ego having a little tantrum at not leading the 2nd free ascent. I totally ran out the next 5.8 chimney pitch. When Jim got up to me on the top, he said something like -well, that was a little uncool, wasn't it? (something like that) He was acknowledging my childish behavior, but at the same time he conveyed that it was okay, and he understood my frustration.
Occasionally falling short of one's goals is as much a part of climbing as is setting new standards; just part of the game. I have no regrets about the past, and am happy to be alive today.
rik r
his link:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=199688&msg=1190023#msg1190023
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 12, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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Bump for this. Peter--well, well ahead of his time.
Still is!!!!
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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
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Bumping my own thread. I know.............
I'm gonna die!!!!!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 17, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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Wowsa....beautiful pics and great backstory. Love that Hourglass piece of rock...I think it is lovely.
Susan
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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Now that we got the wings of steals second ascent out of the way ...
Isn't it time we see some good reportage on modern ascents of the Hourglass?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
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Yeah T-babe. Werner has done it five times for example.
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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
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Haan's Solo bump
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Oct 25, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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Guido just told me he was 16 years old on the FA of Hourglass! Kamps took 7 hours to lead the A4 pitch (as it was on the FA) with multiple tied off bongs placed endwise. I am sure it was a great learning experience to watch Kamps lead that thing!
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Mimi
climber
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Oct 25, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
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Peter, you are one cool and badass mofo! The FA was quite the feat but you soloing it when you did is way out there. Really missed seeing you at the Salathe' gig.
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Gene
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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Peter,
This thread is screaming for some pictures. If you have any, please????
g
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 25, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
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Okay. Here is the first ever "Story through Time":
First year of life, Honolulu, behind the University of Hawaii:
Age 2-3, on Kilauea with sister and mother:
Age 6:
Age 10, Ashland Oregon motel:
Age 12, Berkeley:
Just before I began climbing, 1962. Family passport photo for first trip to Europe:
1964: Age 16, Pinnacles Nat Monument:
Age 18, Clearlake:
Age 20, Top of Tenaya Canyon after ascending it:
Age 20, with Galen Rowell at Indian Rock, photo by Darwin Alonso:
1971 series:
Meatgrinder, fourth ascent, photo by Bruce Steakly:
Sacherer Crackerer:
Vendetta, fourth pitch 1970:
At the hot springs in Tuolumne two days before the Hourglass FFA 1971, photo by Darwin Alonso
1974 series:
Cramming, with Chris Vandiver:
New Dimensions:
1975 series: Lazy Bum, Yosemite:
Aptos, CA:
Half Dome, after Call of the Wild FA, after four days with John Bragg:
1976/77 in Joshua Tree with Tom Carter:
1980, Soquel with Juanita, New Years:
1990: Portugal, Sintra:
1995: My equestrian center with partner Tobin, Watsonville:
Training a horse at the center:
1998: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz:
1999: Thanksgiving Aptos:
1994: National Museum of Natural History, Dublin, Ireland:
3/2000 base of Hourglass in a light snow storm:
2007 in San Francisco at Happy Hour:
2011, April: Flanders Fest:
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 25, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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More than I am prepared at this time to digest.
(You too?) lol
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Mimi
climber
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Oct 25, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Double wow!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 27, 2011 - 12:37am PT
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Very nice retrospective, Peter. Enjoyed the photos. You were quite a climber!
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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I hope the guy in the pics doesn't mind my saying, but here's best wishes to him for an upcoming operation to replace his lousy knee with a new mechanical one. I'm sure followers of Haan here all wish him well in his recovery.
Peter, may your outcome be perfect and your enjoyment of the mountains ever greater as a result.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
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Sending positive thoughts for a speedy & complete recovery.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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Peter, thanks for the nice photo-bio-essay! And good luck with the surgery - everyone I know who's had it was happy with the result, apart from one who ended up with an unrelated infection. Don't forget the TR, with photos!
The article on San Francisco Bay area climbing in Rock & Ice 198 (the current one) has the following: "In Yosemite Haan made the FFA of the Left Side of the Hourglass, a 5.11 undercling and offwidth with groundfall potential. His pre-cam, onsight ascent, in 1971, is still considered one of Yosemite's boldest leads."
I wonder how many free ascents it has had altogether? Has the bolt been replaced? How much easier does modern wide gear make it to protect the thing? Werner?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks for the amazing slide show bio Peter!
Missed this one first time around...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Thanks for the awe inspiring thread!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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The main reason I put that slide show in here was I was worried about my upcoming knee surgery in November and thought maybe get those images archived here in case something happened at the hospital.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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An orderly house never looked so good! Glad you're still home!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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How did I miss this thread?!!!!!!!!! aka bump.
I know exactly how I missed it, I was looking at my first general anesthesia surgery for a torn up shoulder right at this time. So, Peter I really responded to :
The main reason I put that slide show in here was I was worried about my upcoming knee surgery in November and thought maybe get those images archived here in case something happened at the hospital.
Peter and I are close to the same generation, and I at least, couldn't help hearing my MD mom saying (long long ago) that people some times didn't come out of general anesthesia. Peter, this was your first, right?
Anyway Gene thanks for starting the thread and Peter thanks for the history and the pictures and the credit. Chris V., if you're out there, "hi!".
Meat Grinder photos are too f'king cool. Nice seeing you on a horse and the photo with Tobin. Funny when the Alpinist issue with the Hourglass story came out, my friends couldn't quite understand that
I was more proud of having my photo of you appear in it,
than if there had been one of me climbing. I could stand that latter of course, if there is someone who wants to publish a photo of a portly 58 year old climbing 5.6 (on a good day).
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 16, 2012 - 05:27am PT
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Peter, I kneed nothing of your knew surgery. Mein gott!
My right ACL was restructured, cartilage scraped, etc., in 1979. I have creepy scars. I want to show mine to you. Trade?
It's all that thrutching and clutching.
Coulda had a skinny crack, but your gotta be the Wide Man.
They sell nifty folding canes now. With stealth rubber tips.
Dude, I'm so sorry. Hope it heals fine.
Brian
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 16, 2012 - 08:36am PT
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Actually Mouse, the healing is nearly done. I don't think about the knee most of the time. It can get stiff as the synovial circulation is less efficient than in a real knee. The front, kneecap area is really numb, so kneeling is strange and tentative, and I think doing off width or an S-chimney might be less than optimum, although perhaps the numbness disappears. I don't know and have to ask the surgeon. I recommend the surgery for those of us who are bone-on-bone in there. Michael Kennedy had both done at once, incredibly, and is fully active still. The cost is in six figures, though, so good insurance is key.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 17, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Now thaat I knew. Thank you, Guru.
I had all my medical thru TNF and Kaiser. (Thanks, Hap.)
I recall a "lame" incident on Nutcracker with Marc Irwin and Throwpie after I was on my feet in '79.
No boring details. But, to the gent on pitch one who got angry with our exceedingly n00b-appearing style, I extend my heartfelt finger in a gesture calculated to make you feel small.
You selfish chalk-bagger. Everyone gets off-route. Even if they've climbed the SOB a dozen times. Keep it in yer shorts and be a gentleman when you are challenged with a problem like that. You wee-brain. Can't remember stepping on the rope (metaphor, dum-ass) as a novice? I had three in my party. The most I saw in yours was two. You obviously have a problem with reality. We out-numbered you and we were above you. And you must have been desperate to get the climb. What was it, your first trip to a mecca? Your first 5.8? Working on some babe? We laffed and laffed on the way home. We started climbing slower, too. Did you notice? No. You blew off Nutcracker and went to do Mouse King.
I feel better, now. I realize the semi-inappropriate place, but Kneeded to get that out after so many years holding back. He was a real turd.
I hope you can climb as fast as ever, Pete. Knowing you, you will.
Numbers don't mean shite and should mean even less to the advanced-age set.
Except for cane-length. You gotta know that number.
You were always a child at heart, Peter. I loved looking at your kiddy pictures. Takes a man to post those!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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May 17, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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Peter,
Hope your new knee works out for you. Its kind of surprising we never tied in together BITD. Your ascent of the Left Side of the Hourglass was definitely a Yosemite milestone. I remember Bridwell showing me his undercling training boulder. It was just to the West of Camp Four off the trail a short distance before the "Crystals" boulder (the large boulder with the deep pit facing the trail). For some reason I want to think Bridwell's ascent was before seventy four. Fall of seventy two perhaps. I also think I remember Jim saying something about getting a knifeblade into a crack in the ceiling of the roof.
Chappy
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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May 17, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
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Good luck, Peter.
And thanks one more time for your help on that article I wrote. I really enjoyed it.
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