Photos of The Hourglass Left


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Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 26, 2006 - 01:54am PT
Here is the Hourglass from afar:

Here is a closeup of the 350-400 ft profile:

Here it is from below:

and here is a closer view:

and here is a view of the beautiful right side:

These photos were taken late winter, early spring of 2000, when I went back up to the route during a light snow storm, to photograph it and to feel it again after 29 years.


Trad climber
the south
May 26, 2006 - 02:03am PT
Oh sh!t, that thing is calling my name.

YOU sure do make this site better, Peter.

Trad climber
Morongo Valley, Ca
May 26, 2006 - 02:05am PT
WOW!! That thing looks too freaking cool. Thanks for posting the pics.


Social climber
The West
May 26, 2006 - 02:14am PT

Trad climber
the south
May 26, 2006 - 02:30am PT
It's really beautiful.

Does it get climbed a lot?

Is it polished?

how much goes free, at what grade, and does it go to the top?

right here, right now
May 26, 2006 - 02:45am PT
'Always wanted to do it, never did.
It's a known Arse Kicker.

Shipley had a great reportage:
Got up to the undercling, had some mondo piece, tube chock, big cam or whatever, slid it back and forth, left and right, got nothin' but air and just started pimpin'.


Trad climber
the south
May 26, 2006 - 03:08am PT
Lets do it Tarbaby.

Get yer arms well, I'll get well, we'll hit that thing.

Barcelona, Spain
May 26, 2006 - 03:49am PT
The upper part of the R side looks pretty interesting, too.

Trad climber
the south
May 26, 2006 - 03:54am PT
tar-babay, I got two gold big bros, they oughta work there.

Let's do it.

Trad climber
the south
May 26, 2006 - 04:08am PT
Wake up Tar!!!

TWO gold big bros, what can go wrong? LOL!

YOU gotta carry those sucker though.
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
May 26, 2006 - 07:05am PT
Peter, great article.

I'm so over it
May 26, 2006 - 08:54am PT
I was okay from afar. Closer we got, worse I felt.

Now I will go climbing. (Not on that thing!) Out!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 26, 2006 - 09:24am PT
That thing would be perfect at bomber hand size.

Maybe we could find a way to screw it back down to the wall to get it down to 10c or so, like the boot flake.

Thanks Peter. Nice that you are here



Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
May 26, 2006 - 10:10am PT
when the walls

come tumbling down

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
May 26, 2006 - 10:25am PT
Very nice pics. This was the only climb I ever did with the late Andy Embick - probably 1975.

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 26, 2006 - 10:35am PT
Peter! Nice photos....I think me and Kauk did one of the early repeats on that. Horrendous and terrifying as well.....the undercling pitch and the roof-pitch thing up higher! Even when we did it there was a crushed tube chock at the start of the undercling. I heard the whole thing keeps creeping down all the time - like dozens of feet from when you guys did it?

the flatness
May 26, 2006 - 10:41am PT
Give us flatlanders an idea of size here. 4-5" below the big brow/roof thing, not quite man-eater above?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 26, 2006 - 11:37am PT
...comme la chanson des filles d'Achelous

May 26, 2006 - 11:38am PT
Six inch tube chock fits just barely at the foothold on the undercling. Now you probably can get some huge cam in there that they make now.

It's and awesome route, and demands some good leading exeperience.

When Peter first freed it and decided to run it out he was looking at sure death fall. Yikes!

This one is left for those that want the best.

Thanks Peter for the "Left side of the Hourglass"

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 26, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
I remember that crushed tube chock John B. mentioned and unless I'm mistaken it got crushed right after an earthquake when the exfoliating slab moved a bit.

I sure didn't like the looks of that old Kamps bolt, and wonder if it ever got replaced. For shortish classic routes on exfoliating formations, I think Slap Happy Pinnacle and the Hourglass are maybe my favorites. You really got a prize there, Peter. Both routes on the Hourglass are "mans" routes, and always will be.

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