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Mimi
climber
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Oct 25, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Double wow!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 27, 2011 - 12:37am PT
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Very nice retrospective, Peter. Enjoyed the photos. You were quite a climber!
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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I hope the guy in the pics doesn't mind my saying, but here's best wishes to him for an upcoming operation to replace his lousy knee with a new mechanical one. I'm sure followers of Haan here all wish him well in his recovery.
Peter, may your outcome be perfect and your enjoyment of the mountains ever greater as a result.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
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Sending positive thoughts for a speedy & complete recovery.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 11, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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Peter, thanks for the nice photo-bio-essay! And good luck with the surgery - everyone I know who's had it was happy with the result, apart from one who ended up with an unrelated infection. Don't forget the TR, with photos!
The article on San Francisco Bay area climbing in Rock & Ice 198 (the current one) has the following: "In Yosemite Haan made the FFA of the Left Side of the Hourglass, a 5.11 undercling and offwidth with groundfall potential. His pre-cam, onsight ascent, in 1971, is still considered one of Yosemite's boldest leads."
I wonder how many free ascents it has had altogether? Has the bolt been replaced? How much easier does modern wide gear make it to protect the thing? Werner?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks for the amazing slide show bio Peter!
Missed this one first time around...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Thanks for the awe inspiring thread!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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The main reason I put that slide show in here was I was worried about my upcoming knee surgery in November and thought maybe get those images archived here in case something happened at the hospital.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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An orderly house never looked so good! Glad you're still home!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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How did I miss this thread?!!!!!!!!! aka bump.
I know exactly how I missed it, I was looking at my first general anesthesia surgery for a torn up shoulder right at this time. So, Peter I really responded to :
The main reason I put that slide show in here was I was worried about my upcoming knee surgery in November and thought maybe get those images archived here in case something happened at the hospital.
Peter and I are close to the same generation, and I at least, couldn't help hearing my MD mom saying (long long ago) that people some times didn't come out of general anesthesia. Peter, this was your first, right?
Anyway Gene thanks for starting the thread and Peter thanks for the history and the pictures and the credit. Chris V., if you're out there, "hi!".
Meat Grinder photos are too f'king cool. Nice seeing you on a horse and the photo with Tobin. Funny when the Alpinist issue with the Hourglass story came out, my friends couldn't quite understand that
I was more proud of having my photo of you appear in it,
than if there had been one of me climbing. I could stand that latter of course, if there is someone who wants to publish a photo of a portly 58 year old climbing 5.6 (on a good day).
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 16, 2012 - 05:27am PT
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Peter, I kneed nothing of your knew surgery. Mein gott!
My right ACL was restructured, cartilage scraped, etc., in 1979. I have creepy scars. I want to show mine to you. Trade?
It's all that thrutching and clutching.
Coulda had a skinny crack, but your gotta be the Wide Man.
They sell nifty folding canes now. With stealth rubber tips.
Dude, I'm so sorry. Hope it heals fine.
Brian
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 16, 2012 - 08:36am PT
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Actually Mouse, the healing is nearly done. I don't think about the knee most of the time. It can get stiff as the synovial circulation is less efficient than in a real knee. The front, kneecap area is really numb, so kneeling is strange and tentative, and I think doing off width or an S-chimney might be less than optimum, although perhaps the numbness disappears. I don't know and have to ask the surgeon. I recommend the surgery for those of us who are bone-on-bone in there. Michael Kennedy had both done at once, incredibly, and is fully active still. The cost is in six figures, though, so good insurance is key.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 17, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Now thaat I knew. Thank you, Guru.
I had all my medical thru TNF and Kaiser. (Thanks, Hap.)
I recall a "lame" incident on Nutcracker with Marc Irwin and Throwpie after I was on my feet in '79.
No boring details. But, to the gent on pitch one who got angry with our exceedingly n00b-appearing style, I extend my heartfelt finger in a gesture calculated to make you feel small.
You selfish chalk-bagger. Everyone gets off-route. Even if they've climbed the SOB a dozen times. Keep it in yer shorts and be a gentleman when you are challenged with a problem like that. You wee-brain. Can't remember stepping on the rope (metaphor, dum-ass) as a novice? I had three in my party. The most I saw in yours was two. You obviously have a problem with reality. We out-numbered you and we were above you. And you must have been desperate to get the climb. What was it, your first trip to a mecca? Your first 5.8? Working on some babe? We laffed and laffed on the way home. We started climbing slower, too. Did you notice? No. You blew off Nutcracker and went to do Mouse King.
I feel better, now. I realize the semi-inappropriate place, but Kneeded to get that out after so many years holding back. He was a real turd.
I hope you can climb as fast as ever, Pete. Knowing you, you will.
Numbers don't mean shite and should mean even less to the advanced-age set.
Except for cane-length. You gotta know that number.
You were always a child at heart, Peter. I loved looking at your kiddy pictures. Takes a man to post those!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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May 17, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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Peter,
Hope your new knee works out for you. Its kind of surprising we never tied in together BITD. Your ascent of the Left Side of the Hourglass was definitely a Yosemite milestone. I remember Bridwell showing me his undercling training boulder. It was just to the West of Camp Four off the trail a short distance before the "Crystals" boulder (the large boulder with the deep pit facing the trail). For some reason I want to think Bridwell's ascent was before seventy four. Fall of seventy two perhaps. I also think I remember Jim saying something about getting a knifeblade into a crack in the ceiling of the roof.
Chappy
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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May 17, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
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Good luck, Peter.
And thanks one more time for your help on that article I wrote. I really enjoyed it.
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