Have only 3 people redpointed every pitch of the nose?

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Orange TCU

Trad climber
GA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
i just had an discussion with a fellow climber who claims that the nose has only seen 3 redpoint ascents, and that every one else has aided changing corners....I say bullsh*t, tons of people have freed the whole thing....let the mayhem of forum posts begin! whats is the truth!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jul 16, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
Tons of people have redpointed the Nose? hahahhahaahaaa, what are you smoking?
Orange TCU

Trad climber
GA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
okaaay, perhaps tons was an overstatment, somewhere in the ballpark of 20 or so i'd assume, potter? the hubers? trotter? honnold? have they not done it?
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jul 16, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
nope, they haven't.
Orange TCU

Trad climber
GA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
wow, well i feel dumb...so is the magic number really three? who has done it so far?
skipt

Mountain climber
Washington
Jul 16, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
Redpoint is a subset of Freed.

Sorry, I don't know the number.

(Don't feel dumb. Great question.)
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jul 16, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
Lynn Hill, Scott Burke (with long term effort) and Tommy Caldwell.....thats all that I know of. And Im sure it all depends on your definition of "redpoint." For example, I don't believe anyone has climbed it top to bottom without any falls.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 16, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Only Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden redpointed all of the pitches on one ascent. Scott Burke may have redpointed all the pitches but not on one ascent.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jul 16, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
I thought Beth lead only every other pitch? (I mean "only" in the sense of swinging leads). In either case, not bad for a girl. ha
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jul 16, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
lynn did it 1st
(big gap)

tommy did it
then beth did it (every pitch)

then i think (pretty sure) tommy freed the nose and freerider in the same day



scott burke put mad effort in
not aware if he has actually led every pitch free, but the closest he came in one continuous ascent was every pitch freed, but one pitch was not led free, i think there was weather pressure, no sure of details...
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jul 16, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
Is the Jardine Traverse part of The Nose?
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jul 16, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
It's part of the free route, sadly.

EDIT: whats an alternative free variation?
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jul 16, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
It is not.
It's a variation.

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jul 16, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
whats an alternative free variation?

You dyno from the top of boot flake to eagle ledge.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jul 16, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
TBD, I reckon. Get up there!
john hansen

climber
Jul 16, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
I have often wondered if there was any kind of free variation from the top of Boot Flake across the King Swing to the Grey Bands but, apparently that does not seem possible. Even that would be a deviation from the original Nose route. It is too bad the Jardine traverse slightly taint's the free ascents. But still getting up El Cap free by any route is an amazing feat.

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jul 16, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
If there weren't pin scars it wouldn't go free either, so don't feel too bad about the traverse.

Redpoint = leading.

So Lynn Hill, #1.
Scott Burke redpointed every pitch, but not on the same ascent, TRed the great roof on his continuous ascent #2.
Tommy Caldwell #3

Did Beth Rodden lead every pitch? She swapped leads with Tommy on their first free ascent. Did she return and lead all pitches?
The user formerly known as stzzo

Social climber
Jul 16, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
It is too bad the Jardine traverse slightly taint's the free ascents. But still getting up El Cap free by any route is an amazing feat.

Yeah, I think it's uptight to, well, get uptight about whether the free ascents were truly The Nose route. I agree that the main point is that they freed something on El Cap, whether it's The Nose or something else.

When the route went up, they weren't looking for a free climbing route. It's an aid route, so what?
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Jul 16, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
Here is what I could remember and find of free climbing the NOSE.

Lynn Hill - 1993 (4 days) (FFA)

Lynn Hill - 1994 (NIAD)

Scott Burk - 1998 All Pitches Free but Great Roof (TR) - (261 Days)

Tommy Caldwell/Beth Rodden - October 2005 (TEAM FREE) (4 Days)

Tommy Caldwel - October 2005 (12 HR)

Tommy Caldwell - 2005 - Nose and Freerider (24 HR)


Huber - Close but not quite




http://themountainworld.blogspot.com/2005/10/caldwell-on-burke.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Capitan

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/nosefreeinaday/
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 17, 2011 - 12:34am PT
Isn't the question not whether the Nose was redpointed, but whether it was enhanced? 20,000,000+ posts on the subject of enhancements on the WoS threads mean the question needs to be asked. And if the Nose was enhanced, who was the plastic surgeon?

And as with most other 'free' ascents of El Cap (apart from the West Face and Freerider), the Nose still hasn't been freeclimbed by classic standards - on sight, no trickery, preparations, or falls/hangs.
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