Orange TCU
Trad climber
GA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
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i just had an discussion with a fellow climber who claims that the nose has only seen 3 redpoint ascents, and that every one else has aided changing corners....I say bullsh*t, tons of people have freed the whole thing....let the mayhem of forum posts begin! whats is the truth!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 16, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
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Tons of people have redpointed the Nose? hahahhahaahaaa, what are you smoking?
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Orange TCU
Trad climber
GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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okaaay, perhaps tons was an overstatment, somewhere in the ballpark of 20 or so i'd assume, potter? the hubers? trotter? honnold? have they not done it?
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 16, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
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nope, they haven't.
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Orange TCU
Trad climber
GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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wow, well i feel dumb...so is the magic number really three? who has done it so far?
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skipt
Mountain climber
Washington
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Jul 16, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
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Redpoint is a subset of Freed.
Sorry, I don't know the number.
(Don't feel dumb. Great question.)
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 16, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
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Lynn Hill, Scott Burke (with long term effort) and Tommy Caldwell.....thats all that I know of. And Im sure it all depends on your definition of "redpoint." For example, I don't believe anyone has climbed it top to bottom without any falls.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 16, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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Only Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden redpointed all of the pitches on one ascent. Scott Burke may have redpointed all the pitches but not on one ascent.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 16, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
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I thought Beth lead only every other pitch? (I mean "only" in the sense of swinging leads). In either case, not bad for a girl. ha
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 16, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
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lynn did it 1st
(big gap)
tommy did it
then beth did it (every pitch)
then i think (pretty sure) tommy freed the nose and freerider in the same day
scott burke put mad effort in
not aware if he has actually led every pitch free, but the closest he came in one continuous ascent was every pitch freed, but one pitch was not led free, i think there was weather pressure, no sure of details...
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Jul 16, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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Is the Jardine Traverse part of The Nose?
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 16, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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It's part of the free route, sadly.
EDIT: whats an alternative free variation?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Jul 16, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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It is not.
It's a variation.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 16, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
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whats an alternative free variation?
You dyno from the top of boot flake to eagle ledge.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Jul 16, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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TBD, I reckon. Get up there!
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john hansen
climber
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Jul 16, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
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I have often wondered if there was any kind of free variation from the top of Boot Flake across the King Swing to the Grey Bands but, apparently that does not seem possible. Even that would be a deviation from the original Nose route. It is too bad the Jardine traverse slightly taint's the free ascents. But still getting up El Cap free by any route is an amazing feat.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 16, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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If there weren't pin scars it wouldn't go free either, so don't feel too bad about the traverse.
Redpoint = leading.
So Lynn Hill, #1.
Scott Burke redpointed every pitch, but not on the same ascent, TRed the great roof on his continuous ascent #2.
Tommy Caldwell #3
Did Beth Rodden lead every pitch? She swapped leads with Tommy on their first free ascent. Did she return and lead all pitches?
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The user formerly known as stzzo
Social climber
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Jul 16, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
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It is too bad the Jardine traverse slightly taint's the free ascents. But still getting up El Cap free by any route is an amazing feat.
Yeah, I think it's uptight to, well, get uptight about whether the free ascents were truly The Nose route. I agree that the main point is that they freed something on El Cap, whether it's The Nose or something else.
When the route went up, they weren't looking for a free climbing route. It's an aid route, so what?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2011 - 12:34am PT
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Isn't the question not whether the Nose was redpointed, but whether it was enhanced? 20,000,000+ posts on the subject of enhancements on the WoS threads mean the question needs to be asked. And if the Nose was enhanced, who was the plastic surgeon?
And as with most other 'free' ascents of El Cap (apart from the West Face and Freerider), the Nose still hasn't been freeclimbed by classic standards - on sight, no trickery, preparations, or falls/hangs.
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