Have only 3 people redpointed every pitch of the nose?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 45 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The user formerly known as stzzo

Social climber
Jul 17, 2011 - 03:44am PT
And as with most other 'free' ascents of El Cap (apart from the West Face and Freerider), the Nose still hasn't been freeclimbed by classic standards - on sight, no trickery, preparations, or falls/hangs.

Word is that it wasn't even aid climbed by those standards -- except perhaps for trickery, about which I don't understand what you mean.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 17, 2011 - 04:01am PT
As I understand it Brooke also also did all the moves on the roof, but they ran out of time for him give it a clean go.
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Jul 17, 2011 - 04:33am PT
All the Nose Free climbs use the Jardine Traverse

That was put in by Ray Jardine with a hammer and chisel about 1979??
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 17, 2011 - 04:38am PT
And of course the route is enhanced for free climbing by pin scarring. Wonder how doable the great roof and changing corners would be without the scars?

Peace

Karl
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 17, 2011 - 10:59am PT
hey there say, all.... this is very interesting... thanks for sharing...

another one of these:
wow, you learn so very much, at the ol' supertopo, type things... :)

:)
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Jul 17, 2011 - 11:35am PT
Jul 17, 2011 - 01:01am PT
As I understand it Brooke also also did all the moves on the roof, but they ran out of time for him give it a clean go.

Curious how Burke "ran out of time" to lead the pitch - having spent 261 days on the route...
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 17, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
Brooke Sandahl

Scott Burke
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 17, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
Yes Brooke, not Burke. As I understand it, they were running out of time on the go with Lynn so Brooke ended up foregoing the clean go at the roof, but had done all the moves.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 17, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Everyone seems to assume that everyone would know about every ascent. Maybe the question should have been "how many redpoints of the nose have been written up in climbing mags or internet blogs?"
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Jul 17, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
The Jardine Traverse has been bypassed by Matt Wilder, there's Glue on the Last Pitch and Chipped Holds on the Traverse into Dolt Hole so the Route has been Enhanced. . .
tomtom

Social climber
Seattle, Wa
Jul 17, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
They should call the free variation the Chipped Nose if they want to be honest.
The user formerly known as stzzo

Social climber
Jul 17, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
tomtom

Social climber
Seattle, Wa

Jul 17, 2011 - 11:24am PT
They should call the free variation the Chipped Nose if they want to be honest.

I prefer The Picked Nose
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 17, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
Enhancements and scars aside, it has YET to be freed.

SLING BELAYS DO NOT A FREE CLIMB MAKE!!!!!!!
Pate

Trad climber
Jul 17, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
redpoint is a stupid term with a stupid concept behind it.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 17, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
Beth free climbed the Nose in a Day, didn't she?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 17, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
One of these days I'm going to do it in 2.5 days and treat the whole thing as long free climb, lead and follow the whole thing as free as I can do it.
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jul 17, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
Redpoint = leading.

So Lynn Hill, #1.
Scott Burke redpointed every pitch, but not on the same ascent, TRed the great roof on his continuous ascent #2.
Tommy Caldwell #3

Did Beth Rodden lead every pitch? She swapped leads with Tommy on their first free ascent. Did she return and lead all pitches?



@ Fet,
your logic here is discontinuous.
burke followed a portion of the climb but you give him credit for an ascent? because he led the pitch some other time?

but for beth you ask if she led all pitches? wtf?


sorry scott, great effort. by the current standard of all pitches led free and in a continuous ascent, that doesn't quite qualify.


by another standard, it would, but it seems that by that same other standard, so would anyone swapping leads the whole way
gonzo chemist

climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Jul 17, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
Matt Wilder has found a free passage around the Jardine Traverse? That alone seems like big news...hasn't EVERY free attempt made use of the Jardine Traverse?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 18, 2011 - 02:58am PT
# The Nose - 5.13c/5.14b *** (34p: 6 5.11, 4 5.12, 1 5.13, 1 5.13/5.14)

* Free / nearly Free ascents
 FFA - Lynn Hill 9/93
o 4 days on the continuous free ascent, with Brooke Sandahl. Sandahl freed all but the 2 5.13/5.14 pitches. He freed all the moves on the Great Roof, but didn't link them.
o Preparation (Hill): 4 days of work with Simon Nadin, and 3 days of work with other partners, including Sandahl.
o Climbing #141; includes topo
o AAJ 1994 online version
 2nd FA - Lynn Hill 9/94, in a day
o 23 hours (10pm 9/19 - 9pm 9/20)
o only 2 falls -- both on the "Houdini Corner" above Camp 6
o one previous attempt, 9/6, ended at Great Roof (too hot)
o Climbing #148
 nearly FA - Scott Burke 11/98, led all but Great Roof, which he toproped free. It was wet at that time.
o led the "Houdini" or "Changing Corners" pitch above Camp 6, which he feels is 5.14b for his body size.
o 12 days on the continuous near-free ascent.
o Preparation: 261 days of work, starting in January 1996.
During this time, he led 3 sections of the Great Roof, but did not link them.
o Climbing #185 online version
 3rd FA - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden 10/05
o each led about half the pitches, and every pitch was followed free
o Great Roof 5.13c, led by Rodden, on her second try that day
o Changing Corners 5.14a, led by Caldwell, on his third try that day
o 4 days on the free push:
1. started at midnight, climbed 20 pitches to Camp 4, where they hid from the sun, using some stashed bivvy gear
2. Great Roof to Camp 6
3. Caldwell led Changing Corners pitch, Rodden rested
4. Rodden followed Changing Corners pitch, on her second try. Then free to top out at around noon.
o preparation: 5 weeks of working pitches
o Climbing #245
 4th FA - Tommy Caldwell 10/05, in a day
o only one fall, on the 5.14a Changing Corners pitch
o under 12 hours
o started at midnight, reached Dolt Tower at 3am
o belayed by Beth Rodden
o Climbing #245
 5th FA - Tommy Caldwell 10/05, linked with Freerider in a day
o two falls, on the 5.14a Changing Corners pitch
o 11 hours
o started at 1am, ran/rappelled down the East Ledges, reaching El Cap Meadow before 1pm
o belayed by Beth Rodden

Early pitches freed
* pitch above Camp 5 - 5.12d - Brooke Sandahl, 1992
* last pitch (new variation) - 5.12c - Brooke Sandahl, Dave Schultz, 1991
* variations to Camp 4 - Ray Jardine, et al, 1980
included chipped traverse to avoid King Swing
* all but 400' freed - John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Dale Bard, 1975
* Stovelegs - Jim Bridwell, Jim Stanton, 1968

from
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#nose

So the answer is no, not 3 people, 2 people (Lynn Hill and Tommy Caldwell), if the redpointing has to happen during a single ascent. I don't know if Beth Rodden has redpointed all the pitches individually. Scott Burke has not; he never redpointed the Great Roof (but he redpointed a lot more than all but 2-3 people have done on the Nose).
Rudder

Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
Jul 18, 2011 - 03:05am PT
Why is it always called the "Jardine Traverse" instead of the "Jardine chopped holds Traverse?"
Messages 21 - 40 of total 45 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews