Using the rope for anchor.....another anchor thread

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aa-lex

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 10, 2010 - 04:33am PT
So I've been trying to search about people's experiences and opinions with using the climbing rope for the anchor but haven't found much. I have always used a 20' cordolette, with 3 good pieces, equalized, tied off with an eight, and then belay directly off of this using auto blocked device. This has worked great for me but recently I have been intrigued by the idea of using the climbing rope. I see it as a way to eliminate another thing hanging off my harness. I just want to see what pros and cons people who use this system see.

Seems like pros are: less junk on my harness

Cons are: escaping belay

What else? Any input is appreciated.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Mar 10, 2010 - 04:49am PT
It's been hashed and re-hashed quite a lot on st.com (and probably rc.com). So you'll probably get a high ratio of bogus vs. real answers, and possibly a lot of folks who discussed it at length won't go into detail again.

Search on equalette (sp?), "quad", shock-loading, equalized, extension, SRENE, etc.
aa-lex

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2010 - 04:59am PT
yeah actually most threads i found only briefly mentioned using the rope. most spoke of the web-o-lette vs. cordolette vs. slings.....etc. but seemingly not much about using the rope. most are about different anchor configurations like knot, no knot, sliding x...etc.

all i'm getting at are pros and cons between using the actual climbing rope or another piece of gear (cordolette, web-o-lette, pas, slings).
ec

climber
ca
Mar 10, 2010 - 05:42am PT
Go to a Search and Rescue site...
Prod

Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
Mar 10, 2010 - 08:11am PT
Sometimes I use a cordalette, more and more I tie off 2 or 3 good pieces in series using clove hitches in the lead line.

Prod.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 10, 2010 - 08:25am PT
ropes and rocks and brawn and dreams.

that's all he ever thinks about...

Pate

Trad climber
Mar 10, 2010 - 09:10am PT
What Prod said. That's the minimilist way to go, and gets the most style points IMHO. Great minds think alike Prod don't they?
Jim E

climber
away
Mar 10, 2010 - 09:13am PT
You could do a combo deal. Set three pieces, put a sliding X on two of them, clove hitch yourself to it, then clove hitch in the last piece in a close approximation to equalized. Sort of a 'best of both worlds'. You can still escape the belay easily.
Pate

Trad climber
Mar 10, 2010 - 09:19am PT
It's nice to leave an option like that in case of situations where the next pitch is a rope stretcher- you don't necessarily have to break down and simulclimb, you can just release that last few feet of rope.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 10, 2010 - 09:38am PT
JimE:
You could do a combo deal. Set three pieces, put a sliding X on two of them, clove hitch yourself to it, then clove hitch in the last piece in a close approximation to equalized. Sort of a 'best of both worlds'. You can still escape the belay easily.

By sheer coincidence I've got a picture of just such a rig.

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Mar 10, 2010 - 09:44am PT
This is how I roll...



DMT
Prod

Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
Mar 10, 2010 - 09:47am PT
Great minds think alike Prod don't they?

FnA Brother!

But I still use a locker in the system. Roy/ Tarbaby never did when we climbed together.

Prod.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Mar 10, 2010 - 09:56am PT
Do a search on Ultrabikers 3 loop, sliding knot. Large volume of discussion available in the archives.
Arne
Pate

Trad climber
Mar 10, 2010 - 10:08am PT
But Dingus, do you have the sack for one of these??



edit: Prod- does a locker make a difference in a situation like this?




edit2: It was pointed out to me that this should be identified as incorrect and dangerous. I guess you would call it a strange version of an American Death Triangle?

It was built on a huge ledge to show a n00b what not to do, it was never used as a belay.

But I've certainly used worse in reality, we all have!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 10, 2010 - 10:10am PT
Hey aa-lex,
I've been climbing about ten years so I'm still learning. I've learned mostly from reading John Long's books. I carry an equallette and if there is any question in my mind about the individual pieces of pro that's what I use. However, now that I've been doing this climbing thing for a while I've started to feel more confidant in what I'm doing. In the Long/Leuben Advanced Climbing book they say that both of them tie in with the rope most of the time. So now if each piece looks bomber I tie in with the rope. Since I'm still carrying the equallete it is not about weight it is about speed. You can often be clove hitched to two piece in the time it takes to unclip the equallette from your harness. On a ten pitch climb you'll save a lot of time.
Zander
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Mar 10, 2010 - 10:13am PT
Credit: pud

This is a two point anchor prone to shockload that would easily cause complete anchor failure.


Jim E

climber
away
Mar 10, 2010 - 10:16am PT
pud, Shock loading is a myth.
Pate

Trad climber
Mar 10, 2010 - 10:19am PT
I'd just like to add that when you're doing all the leading, using the lead rope to tie an anchor is not an option. Obvious, but something I've forgotten while in the act. Not much fun re-building the anchor and switching over to the new one in order to extricate yourself.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Mar 10, 2010 - 10:47am PT
pud, Shock loading is a myth.


Right, sorry, I forgot where I was for a minute. Carry on.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 10, 2010 - 10:55am PT
Keep it simple, keep it fast don't "always" do it a certain way. Use the terrain, minimalism is the key.
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