Article

The Best Yosemite Big Wall Climbing Rack and Gear List

Friday March 8, 2013 6:47pm

Below is Chris McNamara's choice for Ultimate Yosemite Big Wall Climbing Rack. We list top choice first followed sometimes by the Best Buy (BB) choice> For example, the La Sportiva Ganda is our top Yosemite shoe choice but costs $200+. The Five Ten Camp Four is $105 and will get the job done.

This rack has almost everything you may need for a typical Yosemite Valley big wall. Depending on the climb you are going to do and your experience you can pick and choose what you need.


	Chris McNamara big wall climbing rack. Credit: Chris McNamara

Rack for all clean routes (Example: The Nose)
Nuts:

1 set DMM Offset Nuts or ABC Huevos (BB)

1 set DMM Peenuts

1-2 sets DMM Brass Offsets
Cams:

1-2 sets Metolius Master Cams (#00-4) or Aliens

1 set Metolius Offset Master Cams (optional) (#00-4)

2 sets Black Diamond Camalot C4s to (#0.5-4)
1-2 ea Moses Cam Hook
- 1 or 2 ea of the two smallest Totem Cams
Ropes: 1 60m or 70m x 10.2mm and one 60m x 9mm static haul rope (8mm if traveling light, 10mm if hauling massive loads).
Quickdraws: 12 CAMP Photon Wire Straight quickdraw or CAMP Nano 23 Quickdraw to go ultralight
Carabiners: 50 extra Camp Photon Wire Straight or Mad Rock Ultra-Light Straight (BB) or CAMP Nano 23 to go ultralight
Locking Carabiners: 5 Petzl Attache 3D or Black Diamond Rocklock (BB)
Slings: 15 Mammut Contact Dyneema and a few 9/16" runners in case you need to leave them at rappels
Cordelette: Mammut Pro Cord
Harness: Arcteryx B360 or CAMP Quartz CR3 or Black Diamond Momentum (BB)
Belay Device: Petzl Reverso 4
Climbing Shoes: La Sportiva TC Pro or Mad Rock Flash (BB)
Helmet: Petzl Meteor III helmet or Petzl Elios
Metolius Adjustable Gear Sling
Nut Tool: Metolius Torque
Hauling Device: Petzl Micro Traxion for loads smaller than 80lb or Petzl Pro Traxion for loads 80-160lb
Ascenders: Petzl Ascension
Aiders: Petzl Wall Step Etrier
Daisy Chains: Metolius Monster Daisy Chain or Metolius Nylon Daisy Chain (BB)
Black Diamond Fifi hook
Approach Shoes: La Sportiva Ganda or Five Ten Camp Four or Five Ten Guide Tennie or Evolv Bolt
Haul Bag: Metolius Half Dome Haul Bag or Metolius El Capitan Haul Bag
Gloves: Black Diamond Stone Glove or Homemade Fingerless Climbing Glove (BB) or Black Diamond Transition Glove (for cleaning only)

Rack for mostly clean routes (Example: Zodiac)
Rack for all clean routes (above) Plus
Hooks: Black Diamond Cliffhanger, Black Diamond Talon, Black Diamond Grappling Hook
Keyhole Hangers: 4+ Moses Rivet Hangers
Wire Rivet Hangers: 4+
Beaks/Peckers: 2-4 Moses Tomahawks or Small Peckers, 2-3 medium and 2-3 large Black Diamond Peckers
1 set Black Diamond Lost Arrow
1-2 Black Diamond Angles
Gear Sling: Yates Big Wall Rack or Misty Mountain Double Gear Sling
Aiders: Yates Big Wall Ladder
Petzl Bongo Hammer

Big Wall Bivy Gear
Runout Customs Double Portaledge
Bivy Sack: Black Diamond Big Wall Bivy Sac
Synthetic Sleeping Bag: Mountain Hardwear Ultralamina 15 or Mountain Hardwear Pinole 20 (BB)
Sleeping Pad: Therm-a-Rest Ridge Rest
Stove: JetBoil Flash with JetBoil Hanging Kit and Snow Peak Titanium Spork
Headlamp: Petzl Tikka XP 2
Rain Jacket: Outdoor Research Helium 2
Poles: Black Diamond Trail Compact (optional)
Poop Tube: Metolius Waste Case and Wag Bags
Stuff Sacks: Metolius Big Wall Stuff Sacks
Portable Solar Panel (optional)
Duct Tape
Wet One's wipes
cell phone

For a more in depth discussion of what gear we recommend and why, check out How To Big Wall Climb: SuperTopo

Article Views: 13,755

Chris McNamara

About the Author
Climbing Magazine once computed that three percent of Chris McNamara’s life on earth had been spent on the face of El Capitan — an accomplishment that has left friends and family pondering Chris’s sanity. He has climbed El Capitan more than 100 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records. In 1998 Chris did the first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan, an epic 75-pitch route that begs the question, “Why?”

Outside Magazine has called Chris one of “the world’s finest aid climbers.” He is the winner of the 1999 Bates Award from the American Alpine Club and founder of the American Safe Climbing Association, a nonprofit group that has replaced over 5000 dangerous anchor bolts. He is a graduate of UC Berkeley and serves on the boards of the ASCA and Rowell Legacy Committee. He has a rarely updated website, chrismcnamara.com, and also runs a Lake Tahoe home rental business http://rentsouthlake.com

Comments

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reason

Big Wall climber

Fort Collins Co

Apr 20, 2011 - 01:53pm PT

Great idea and a great addition to super topos. Having a hit list of gear can trim weight down and assure that you don't need to depends.

cliffhangerb

climber

Aug 4, 2011 - 01:40am PT

New to the big wall side of thing so this article has been an absolutely great insight (along with the various post from the forums).

One question is that one of the recommended ropes is "Ropes: 1 60m or 70m x 9.2mm Maxim Glider". Is this supposed to be the 10.2mm Maxim Glider? Not finding any reference to 9.2mm for that rope from New England Ropes.

Prod

Trad climber

Aug 4, 2011 - 06:54am PT

Not one mention of Fish Gear? His ecconomy haul bag? Porta ledges? Bigwall double gear sling?

What's up with that?

Prod.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Aug 4, 2011 - 06:57am PT

Bivvy Sheep with boots?

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Author's Reply

Mar 4, 2013 - 10:08am PT

I just updated this on 3.4.13. Please let me know if any links are broken or if there are any typos

Jon Rhoderick

climber

Mar 4, 2013 - 10:16am PT

The transition glove in the hooks section might be a typo, Im not sure of you mean 4-6 medium & 4-6 large peckers or 4-6 TOTAL peckers sizes med and lrg.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Mar 4, 2013 - 10:19am PT

Did you do the Nose this Friday?

jeepnphreak

Ice climber

Bzn, mt

Mar 4, 2013 - 10:36am PT

Yes Jaybro bivvy Sheep.
Much like a normal sheep but more compact for those big climbs and just perfect for those cold nights waiting out a storm when you can not have your girl friend along.

I think the boots part was a typo is should be aproach shoes or climbing shoes you know the sheep has to climb as they really hate being stuffed in the haul bag.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Author's Reply

Mar 4, 2013 - 11:57am PT

Yep, did The Nose on friday... temps felt like 70's on the wall! working on the trip report right now...


	Mark Melvin on Pitch 4 of The Nose on a one day winter ascent (temps in the 60/70's) 3.1.13 Credit: Chris McNamara

Grippa

Trad climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Mar 4, 2013 - 12:22pm PT

and here I thought Chris Mac was an office jockey...way to prove me wrong chris.

klaus

Big Wall climber

Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka

Mar 4, 2013 - 12:28pm PT

cell phone but no OE on the list?

what gives?

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Mar 4, 2013 - 01:00pm PT

Cool thanks for posting this.

Is 9.2 really the big wall standard rope now??? Or is that supposed to say 10.2. I don't think I would go on a wall with <10mm

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Mar 4, 2013 - 01:14pm PT

When you reviewed the Black Diamond Talon hook you said:

I find that usually I reach for the Black Diamond Grappling Hook instead of this one. But, it is still good to have this.

But the grappling hook didn't make the list?

Don Paul

Big Wall climber

Colombia, South America

Mar 4, 2013 - 01:14pm PT

You can keep the bivy sheep, I need my teddy bear.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Author's Reply

Mar 4, 2013 - 01:19pm PT

I thought I was an office jockey too... thats why i had to break out!

Ooops, should have been 10.2 and not 9.2 lead rope. Corrected.

Yes, Grappling Hook should be in there. added in.

Thanks for catching my mistrakes.

Vegasclimber

Trad climber

Las Vegas, NV.

Mar 4, 2013 - 01:25pm PT

Mistrake should be mistake. You're welcome. ;)

It's kind of nice when I see gear lists like this now and say "Yeah, got all of that" instead of "The better half is going to get pissed again..."

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Mar 4, 2013 - 02:17pm PT

Awesome! We saw you guys in the morning, but I wasn't sure it was you till one of my partners also said "I think it was Chris MaCnamara." lol We were the party going for Lurking Fear. Not a IAD ascent, but we topped out our first El Cap route!

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Mar 4, 2013 - 03:18pm PT

Nice job Vitaliy! My buddy and I were on the East Buttress that day. We all scored some awesome weather!

matty

Trad climber

under the sea

Mar 4, 2013 - 04:37pm PT

Hey Chris I know at some point you were trying to get an el cap in a day (maybe specifically NIAD?) during every month of the year. You were a maybe 2 months away. Ever get done? Looking forward to trip report.

Vit - Great Job! Looking forward to TR sometime (or at least more details)

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Author's Reply

Mar 5, 2013 - 09:10am PT

That is awesome that the three teams that were on El Cap that day are all on this thread! Way to send guys!

I wanted to climb el cap every month for a year... but then I found BASE jumping. But now that BASE is on the BACK BACK burner, maybe ill get back on that climb el cap every month in a year.

its a secret that ill entrust just with the internet... you can find summer-like daytime conditions every month of the year on a south facing wall. shhhh I wrote a trip report about the climb here http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Keep-The-Nose-Clean-in-2013-A-Winter-1-Day-Ascent-With-Lobster-Claws/t11860n.html

Abissi

Trad climber

Mar 5, 2013 - 11:06am PT

Wasn't there once a "Steamy Bivy Dating Service"? for everyone single I would think this should be on their list.

micronut

Trad climber

Mar 5, 2013 - 12:43pm PT

We were also "on" El Cap. Making an attempt to Sickle for our first time. It's like a little reunion here on the Taco.

Met Briham89 and gave Vitaly's team a copy of our topo after bumping into his partner Alex on the way down.

Great day out there everyone.


	Briham89 (in Green) and Macronut (in the black by the FJ) Credit: micronut


	Credit: micronut

Macronut

Trad climber

Fresno, Ca

Mar 5, 2013 - 03:08pm PT

Chris, I think you left the belay card out of your Big Wall Rack pix. I was truly a great day! Brian and Vit, glad to hear you were successful. Vit, hope the "how to big wall guide" was helpful.

Mark Collins

Trad climber

Chorley, Lancashire, England.

Mar 8, 2013 - 03:47am PT

Hi,

Please excuse my ignorance, I'm posting for the first time from the UK and therefore have a very tenuous grasp of what big wall climbing is about.

I was just wondering about the differences between the rack here and the one on another page:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/bigwalls.html

There seems a lot less cams on the one on this page, what is the reason for this?

For example, the one on this page states offset cams as optional yet the other one says 1-2 sets up to number 5.

DerekCl

Trad climber

Altanta

Mar 8, 2013 - 07:56am PT

Interestingly I noticed a couple totem cams made it into the picture, but not on the list. After reading the many discussions on this forum I decided to pick up a set as I build my big wall rack. I am still learning and haven't made it on many walls yet, but they have become a go to piece for me.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Mar 8, 2013 - 10:02am PT

Cool thread. You've got a Gri Gri in your photo (which, hell yeah bring a Gri Gri on a wall), but not on your list.

Can the Mini-trax really do well up to 80 lbs? Love the idea of bringing that instead of a the big ol' Pro, but skeptical that it'd up to the task... Anyone got experience?

Edit: ah, Micro-trax, not Mini. Is the Micro stronger than the Mini? Could the Mini do it?

cultureshock

Trad climber

Mountain View

Mar 8, 2013 - 10:45am PT

The micro has a better pulley than the mini. The way the plates swing closed is also improved.

I've yet to haul more than a small bag, but it seems like hauling with the micro is better than the Mini-traxion.

Per the Rack above, in what world do you need 50 spare biners? Are you counting the biners on each cam in that number? Maybe 20 for your alpine draws. I dont usually have many true floaters...

Snowmassguy

Trad climber

Calirado

Mar 8, 2013 - 10:23am PT

Yep...I want everything on that list, brand new please! How sweet would that be to go into a gear shop( or online) and just build that massive rack and head to the register. Just out of curiosity, anyone calculate the total cost if you bought everything new at retail value?

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Mar 8, 2013 - 10:31am PT

For example, the one on this page states offset cams as optional yet the other one says 1-2 sets up to number 5.

You don't HAVE to have them. But for climbing walls in Yosemite I would never leave the ground without them. I have brought 1 set before and wished I had extras. Typically whenever I place them I back clean them because you will probably need them again. If you back clean one set is usually ok, depending on the route. Make sure to get offset nuts as well

Jacemullen

Trad climber

Oceanside

Mar 8, 2013 - 11:00am PT

Can the Mini-trax really do well up to 80 lbs? Love the idea of bringing that instead of a the big ol' Pro, but skeptical that it'd up to the task... Anyone got experience?

Edit: ah, Micro-trax, not Mini. Is the Micro stronger than the Mini? Could the Mini do it?

The main difference between the micro and the mini is that the micro has sealed ball bearings instead of brushings.

The other thing that really stuck out to me is that the microtraxion is 91% efficient (meaning it takes about 109lbs to lift 100 lbs, ceterus parabus) compared to the 95% efficiency of the Pro Traxion (105lbs to lift 100lbs). For reference, the mini traxion is 74% efficient.

While the weight difference between the two isn't significant, it is still a few ounces that you will be climbing with.

And according to petzl, both the Micro and the Pro have the same working load (2.5kn) and breaking strength (4kn).