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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Beginner's crack in Carderock has the advantage of being climbed multiple times every day for over sixty years. Stoney Point has some contenders. But I'd guess that Trashcan Rock or Short Wall have caught up with the sheer volume they see.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I dunno, but if it's west of the Mississippi, I bet I've climbed it....
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Great idea?
Locker, To make it even safer for most people to solo (not you)
Turn it into The road side Via Ferrata, if you do i'm sure some one will give you a top rope on it.
Question, How many cracks in the park are now safer due to your BOLTING them?
Please tell all (name routes please)I'm sure all the great people who put The routes up would like to know.
The Tools should put you away.
Great job Today.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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I think this is my first post here. Anyhow there's a great crack down the road from our cabin called "the classic dihedral" on the Bucksnort slab. I've taken dozens of family and friends up it. It's the best 5.7 crack in the Platte. As for real routes, I done the Pervertical Sanctuary maybe six times. But only the second half Ron!
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Please list your top 10
Like I said we all want to Know so we can personal thank you.
Most of all Please let Randy Vogal know how many Bolts you have added to each rout, Mayde he will thank you for your life saving efforts and thank you in the ACKNOWLEDGMENTS or to the first rap bolt ascent of Double Cross ETC.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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locker,
i like your attitude.
i am gonna donate my ASCA winnings to you, to keep on bolting!
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Don’t forget to put rivet or bolt ladders on,
Spider Line
Course and buggy
All Three Ski tracks
Simple Simon
The Beaver
Acid Crack
Equinox
Moon Beam Crack
And what ever else you believe you have the right to f--k up!
This is some off the worst no ethics or standards bull sh-t I have ever imagined
Other than your belief system of no ethics I’m sure you’re a great guy.
And any other crack you will never do!
I need to go puke this OT TR. has me sick……………
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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What is the crux of Double Cross? Where exactly are the bolts? I have led the climb and run laps on it. The only place that I would think that a bolt would be justified is near the beginning when you traverse left into the crack. It is not particularly hard, but that's where I imagine the gumby gym climbers would freak out and fall on the rocks below. I recall that the entire crack could be sewed up with pro every three inches or so.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker
Great Troll,
I was PUNKED
Great Job I feel better about the world, now I can sleep!
That was the best!
Mike
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Locker,
you were joking?
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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I will refrain from flaming about retro-bolting and return to the OP's question.
I am not really familiar with so many places and crags, but based on my own experience I'd say the most climbed single pitch route would be on a crag in or near a large urban center that has no competing crags to lose climbers to and is relatively easy but slightly overhanging so you'll get a pump sooner or later and consequently doing laps on it would be seen as 'gud' trainig after/before work.
Do you have anything like that around your place?
I know I do. There are two small abandoned quarries in Budapest that fit the bill. I'm talking really close (15 minute bike ride from the city center, less by car). They are basically the only outlet poor, unmotorised youths and working men with no time have for there climbing in a city of 2 million.
I'd say that from March/April till November both get approximately 20 visitors daily on weekdays. Both have only about 5 routes that are regularly climbed.
You may say that 20 climbers ain't that much, but we're talking laps here, lots and lots of 'em. Climbing a route say 10-20 times in a session is considered normal, but diehard training fanatics have been rumored to squeeze in over 100 lap sessions.
That's a lot of climbing. Think over 100 laps on every route on every weekday from Spring till early Winter.
I'd guess there are similar setups in even larger urban areas or in areas with a lot more climbers. Vienna has two or three walls that have been climbed into useless heaps of grease over the years, I see that's where we are going, so how about your local crag?
Lasti
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Climber on Werk Supp, avoiding Bastille queue - photo courtesy of MP.com and Michael Komarnitsky
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker, BUMP...
Read this if you want and then you will know that locker is #1 for trolls
I call it PUNKED!
Biggest Laugh and joke on me in all my LIFE!
Great Job Locker
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:44am PT
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bunkwed up, wrote out answer but im in bed and lost the post to an errant motion.
Hey Gunkie, Do they still climb at Livsey rock, just out side of Philly?
Is Gunkie Jeff? No, I dont think so given you saidThat name just burns me up. I used to climb with him all the time. But he's a supreme dick. I heard he got a heart transplant or something like that after climbing a 5.13 with an image that got published in Climbing rag. I wonder if he even climbs anymore. theres a place that "Jeff" was all into. It is steeped in history, The senior Bill Shockley climbed there in the 50s/60s
Lynn Hill has been by this mud hole crag.
You have to cross a sweet sparkely 3 inch deep stream, the sparkels are from all the broken glass. . .
The crag its own self Is Diabase, Trapp-rock, and split by corner chimney affairs that go at 5,very easy.(till the top-out)
The main line a crack or runnel, that has now gotten so slick it is more 5.7 than the long given 5.6.the most climbed line there though is the notch gully in the back that runs up to the first top, theres a great boulder problem above that that if the glass is thin is safe-ish to top out.
when the No-axes fund was hiring I stopped into find that Gunkie might just be Jeff? if so ? so cool that you would play like that Nice Troll come clean here on this thread!
Back to what gets climbed the most in the lower 48? theres little doubt that, given the polish on the Quartzite, and that F Becky, top roped it
Laurel/Rhododendron, at the uber fal, Oh wait thats it for sure
The Down Climb, The Ubberfall.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 21, 2018 - 03:35am PT
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Yo mama.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Jan 21, 2018 - 03:41am PT
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Aunt Fanny's Pantry
EDIT
I just read the entire thread, k-man has the winner, Half Dome, cable route, although Karl has a point about it being closed part of the year, and is not really a "pitch", still...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 21, 2018 - 05:55am PT
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There's a couple topropes strung up at Stoney Point that have probably been in continuous use since they filmed Three on a Rope back in 1938
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 21, 2018 - 07:17am PT
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Hah. Is that a pic of you standing on MisterE? Serves him right....
BAd
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 21, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
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The thread is of course overwhelmingly California (AKA Paradise), but separating out the various popular areas in the US might be instructive. In particular, Devils Lake, which I last visited half a century ago. Brinton's Crack? Probably not, but then what?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
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Mr Gill , Sir, Your Egg Problem in the Gunks sees constant attention as do many other of you fine clambers.
\A pitch implies a rope and the "cables"? how do you even include that?
Seems like a contrivance of convenience.
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