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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:45pm PT
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Grack
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
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John, it is our duty as climbers who have travelled a bit to point out to the crowd here that there is climbing (even good climbing) that is not located in California. There is even excellent climbing to be found that is on rock other than granite. I have to admit that slabs and pin scars tend to get scarce once you leave the Golden State.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:55pm PT
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Probably some Idwal Slabs Vdiff route in Wales that's been climbed every day for a hundred years including with hobnailed boots in the pouring rain
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Climbert
climber
the t is silent
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Jan 21, 2018 - 02:44pm PT
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Either:
A) Potato chip rock at woodson. 1.5 hour line for a class 2 move.
B) Stairs. This class 1 route is copied at many manmade gyms. It has only 1 move which is repeated many times. Rise 7 inches Run 10.5 inches.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 02:46pm PT
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Midway Chimney at Castle Rock near Leavenworth has to be near the top.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jan 21, 2018 - 03:06pm PT
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Hey Gunkie, Do they still climb at Livsey rock, just out side of Philly? Is Gunkie Jeff?... theres a place that "Jeff" was all into. It is steeped in history, The senior Bill Shockley climbed there in the 50s/60s
Lynn Hill has been by this mud hole crag. You have to cross a sweet sparkely 3 inch deep stream, the sparkels are from all the broken glass. . . The crag its own self Is Diabase, Trapp-rock, and split by corner chimney affairs
Yes. A great little crag where many famous, semi-famous and never knowns have climbed and still climb at. Steep and pumpy in 25'.
No and I'm not sure which 'Jeff' you are referring. There have been many Jeffs that have climbed at the Watchung Reservation which you have pictures posted. The Jeff I'm referring to effectively got that place shut down. It was a great little workout crag for after work/pre-beer sessions.
the most climbed line there though is the notch gully in the back that runs up to the first top, theres a great boulder problem above that that if the glass is thin is safe-ish to top out. when the No-axes fund was hiring I stopped into find that Gunkie might just be Jeff? if so ? so cool that you would play like that Nice Troll come clean here on this thread!
Back to what gets climbed the most in the lower 48? theres little doubt that, given the polish on the Quartzite, and that F Becky, top roped it
Laurel/Rhododendron, at the uber fal, Oh wait thats it for sure
The Down Climb, The Ubberfall.
The most climbed pitch on the planet might be "Ken's Crack" in the Gunks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 06:05pm PT
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It would probably be more generative to ask which route in each area has the most ascents.
Mount Lemmon it would be Hitchcock Pinnacle original north face route. Lead it with the bolt already clipped on my first day out roped climbing in 1970.
Horseman at the Gunks would be another good bet.
After Six in Yosemite.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 07:40pm PT
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The most climbed pitch on the planet might be "Ken's Crack" in the Gunks.
that's a change from when I climbed there in the 80s and 90s. Back then you could always be sure it was open. What are the popular 'Gunks solos?
After Six might be in the running, if you include solo laps on the thing. But then the Flatirons would probably be in the running too.
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Lennox
climber
in the land of the blind
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Jan 21, 2018 - 08:47pm PT
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Anything at Swan Slab; YMS & noob city.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Jan 21, 2018 - 08:53pm PT
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Bears Reach
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 09:25pm PT
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Any 5.9 at a climbing gym in the Bay Area
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Dolores
Sport climber
Lucky Duck Drive Bethel Park
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Jan 21, 2018 - 11:56pm PT
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Double Cross
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 22, 2018 - 12:11am PT
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Half Dome cable route doesn't count because it is multi-pitch. The fact that most people french-free it without ropes doesn't make it a single-pitch route. Roper's green book rates it Class-5 Grade III if you avoid the via ferrata.
Alex Honnold linked all the pitches of Freerider, but that doesn't make it a single-pitch route.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 22, 2018 - 06:20am PT
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Any numbers out there?
Yes, speaking of Ken's Crack:
Ken Nichols' 10,000th ascent of Dol Guldur way back in 2012.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 22, 2018 - 07:36am PT
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I think you'd have to do a little research and figure out what area actually receives the most traffic. Joshua Tree seems like a likely candidate because there's such a flood of climbers there, basically from Sep. to May (not because it's in California).
Double Cross sees a lot of traffic but I wonder if Upper Right Ski Tracks, or Mike's Books doesn't see more.
Might be interesting to consider what 5.10 route sees the most traffic. Tough call.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 22, 2018 - 08:40am PT
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Seems like it’d have to be across the pond, shearly from years of use perspective.
Blanking on the name atm(LaPrestat?), but there’s a crack at Bas Cuvier that’d be a good candidate. FA circa 1920s, popular w the local alpine club at the time. Font is climbable year round and with a modern difficulty of about 5.7, easy enough draw the masses.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jan 22, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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Historically Tami probably has it right. Some place like Harrisons south of London where there are short top ropes. When I was there in 1990, there were groves in the sandstone a foot deep from rope wear.
In the US, maybe one of the short TR pitches at Stony Point. It's smack in the middle of the second largest city, has mostly good weather, and people have been climbing there since the 50s.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 22, 2018 - 11:05am PT
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What’s the winter climate like in that part of the UK? Seems like # of climbable days would be a factor.
I don’t know Italian climbing well, but seems like there should be some costal areas w year round climbing and a long history that would qualify. Southern France? Something near Barcelona?
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 23, 2018 - 12:09am PT
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Nice trolling picture, Locker! Consumnes River Gorge gets gangbanged all day every day. Summer or winter. Used by four or five guide services. Ive guided hundreds of climbers there. I think that Testpiece could be the winner for California climbs.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 23, 2018 - 05:42am PT
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Any ice in japan
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