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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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MAYBE somewhere in Europe as SUGGESTED...
Nah, Europe never gets that crowded...
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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as far as west coast goes im with 5 gallon buckets at smith. since its a sport climb it goes quick. even on a tuesday in the middle of a snice storm in january theres a f*#kin line for that thing.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker? Off Topic:
Who Bolted Double Cross & Why?
Is it ok to Bolt classic climbs?
The Bolts should never been placed!!!!!
Would you approve bolting on?
1. Leave it to Bever
2. Tax Man
3. Illusion Dweller
4. Erotic City
5. Spider Line
Please read me earlyer posts!!!
I almost forgot Coarse and Buggy* as I remember it's thin and hard to protect?
Maybe I'm old and The ethics I learend from a great mentor (JB) don't mean sh#t Today.
Please let me Know
MIke
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Illusion Dweller?
As Walt would say "IT'S A CRACK"
Last time i got on Spiderline was with Walt too. I slipped and hit my head on the rock and said, damn the rock is hard, and Walt said, that's why it's called a rock.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Who Bolted Double Cross & Why?
If I'm not mistaken it was the FAist years after he put it up. He felt guilty that so many people were getting injured on it.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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The First Ascent of Double cross John, Rich& Mike Wolfe 1967
FFA Stark, Webster & Briggs 1967 ( I’m sure they used nuts and stoppers..)
So you mean to tell me that 40 years later they wanted bolts on this route.
Mr. Gordon Are you still The Mayor, Maybe you can help with this & what is your opinion?
MIke
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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I've sat around the campfire BSing about this question before. I guess it depends on what counts as a "climb". If the cables on HD count, then that is going to beat any of the other pitches name so far.
But if it means a roped climber climbing something that is at least 5 class, then I think it would be something where a large number of climbers can get a toprope in, probably from a guide and something that sees large crowds most of the year.
Swan slab is probably the best candiate in Yosemite. I've not been to after 6 for a while, but guides don't run dozens and dozens of climbers through there on a toprope (do they?). Climbs like Royal arches may have a crowd in the morning, but it is empty by mid-day and its not being climbed in the off-season.
I would think J-tree would have way more climable days than something back east like the gunks. I've not been to J-tree for a long while, but I don't really remember guides trying to run a large number of climbers through double cross all day long.
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Darren D.
Social climber
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Is it ok to Bolt classic climbs?
The Bolts should never been placed!!!!!
Figures on a Landscape has bolts and it's pretty classic. I'm sure they're are more...
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Darren, I hope it has no more bolts than the first ascent!
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker, are you telling me that it' ok to add BOLTS to any route?
Question Why did you do this? WHY, WHY Tell ALL!
I remember cleaning that thing in 1979 I was 15 I never lead it
but SOLOED my first time 1983!
MIke
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Locker, are you telling me that it' ok to add BOLTS to any route?
How do you get from a member of the FFA party added bolts to a specific climb because people kept getting hurt, to "add bolts to any route?"
I would guess in '67 they were driving pins, not placing homemade nuts.
There's retro bolts on Snake Dike, go chop them.
Thanks Locker for keeping it as Woody wanted it.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Maybe a European Vintage Via Ferrata, Would take the place of Half Dome?
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brett
climber
oregon
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=818261&msg=818446#msg818446
From the thread "How many times does Double Cross or Toe Jam get climbed ??" back in March:
"Some route at the Uberfall like maybe Laurel? Probably sees steady traffic 9 months a year, going back even longer in history. Does rain a bunch there though.
Routes on Morning Glory at Smith are likely gaining fast. Constant year round traffic with 5 Gallon Buckets and Magic Light seeing 20+ laps daily.
Record probably goes to some nondescript urban toprope used by schools and clubs"
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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I second Rick D's nomination of Beginners Crack at Carder Rock. Busy micro-crag next to big city with pretty mild weather.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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**Locker, When you placed bolts on that route you f---ed up did you hang on natural pro?
Care to confess about ANY MORE THAT YOU HAVE FOREVER Trashed!!!!!
I hope this is all a joke and you have good ethics?
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KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
STUD
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Defineatly has to be a moderate, single pitch, with easy access, and good weather.
Amazing Face at Diablo gets a lot. But probably slows down on weekdays.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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The most climbed pitch in the whole wide world has gotta be the first pitch of the Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon; first climbed in the 50s and has people on it almost every day of the year. It's slicker than a wet snail on a doorknob.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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After what Zip was saying, maybe there needs to be some holds chisseled into the face on either side of that crack.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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CHAZ,
Like Walt said, it's a crack!
probably had to be there to see how funny it was.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Better chissel those holds extra-big then.
They're going to have to be foot-holds too.
I've seen tons of folks who absolutely refuse to jam a crack, mostly sport / gym climber types.
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