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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 1, 2009 - 12:09am PT
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In all the climbing world there must exist one pitch that has been climbed more times then any other.
With varying populations of climbers and area's having been 'discovered' at different times, I might lean towards something in the Gunks.
Maybe Bishop's Terrace in Yosomite?
Or something in J tree?
What do you think?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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First pitch of the Nose. Many, many start, far fewer finish.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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double cross
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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5 Gallon Buckets. Smith.
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apogee
climber
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Another vote for Double Cross. Go figure.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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The most visited park, for CLIMBING? JT.
Easiest, most accessable crag? Old Woman.
Highest star moderate on the formation?
Chalk one up for Woodies route. Aesthetic as it gets, deserving as well.
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WandaFuca
Gym climber
A survey where 68% preferred this Fuca over others
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Jamcrack or something at swan slab.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Half Dome, cable route.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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beginner's crack @ Carderock, "5.2" (35'?)
Soloed or roped climbed 3-20 times every ok weather day for 60 years- unless someone gets their knee stuck then it is greasy for a while after.
Last time I climbed at that wall, there were 3 of us simul climbing.
ooooooh, Mica Schist w/ quartz knobs
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Gota be Toejam on the Old Woman.
Double Cross may be a close second though.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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No its got to be something in the valley. I think over all that has more traffic than JT.
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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The op said in the world...
you think (and I have no idea) the route is in the states?
Maybe Europe somewhere...
Not sure but I've done almost all the ones above...
Interesting Q.
Cheers,
DD
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
pitch above you
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Sorry Hoipolloi,
I'm with the OP and lean toward the Gunks. Climber density there is well beyond what I've seen most other places. Routes like High-E, Laurel, Rhododendron, Jackie, Classic, etc. probably get way more traffic than anything in the Valley or J-tree.
-Bob
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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I think it has to be a couple o routes on Swan Slab too. There are people there pretty much on a daily basis. YMS, other climbers either practicing or just going for one pitch wonder etc. J Tree does get its fair share of traffic but, not as much I think during the week especially in July and August. But the slab you can count on someone there just about any time of year.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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I agree with HAlf Dome cable route,
Roped climbs, Josh most climbed (Face it The easy stuff gets done the most)
1. B-1 & B-2 Trash can Rock AKA Quail Springs picnic area
1. Cyclopse, The Eye
2. Mikes Book
3. Sw face Headstone Rock
4. The Bong
5. Black Tide
6. Double Dip
7. Cryptic
8. Hobit Roof
9. Sail Away
10.Peote cracks
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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fogarty,
r ski track, and leave it to beaver?
are you kidding?
The move off the bolt on r ski track kinda shuts a lot of people down, and i hardly ever see anyone on da beave.
the rest definitely see a lot of traffic
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Another vote for the half-dome cable route. That was a good catch, IMO
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Ok Zip check out new adjustment?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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It's not the cables on Half Dome since they are shut down for months out of the year and fail to qualify as a "Pitch" If we are to actually answer the question and consider the whole world, we probably don't have the knowledge to answer the question without our local bias. How about the US, or california? Maybe we could get somewhere with that?
It's probably some little nondescript pitch on some local crag that a guide service gangbangs every day, all day, all year
Peace
Karl
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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fogarty,
i concur, but what about double cross?
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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1st pitch of the Bastille has to be up there. I don't think I have ever seen it without a line, and sometimes a line after dark!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Fer shur Double Cross.
Especially now since there's a bolt at the crux.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I've only climbed in California, and I can't even answer the question for that, even with 42 years of climbing experience, because there are so many areas I've seldom been to. With that caveat, I think JTree sees more climber-days than Yosemite, although Swan Slab Gully and its variants might come close. Bishop's Terrace is usually climbable year-round, but not at all hours of the day. In any case, I can always count on a line near Swan Slab, but there are plenty of times when Bishop's Terrace is completely open.
I don't know Joshua Tree well enough to know which routes are most likely to be populated, but if I had to guess, I'd go for one with a very short approach, good rock, good pro and moderate difficulty.
John
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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I agree Double cross I forget that it was HOMO BOLTED!!!
That clasic should be CHOPED with all the ethics of no trace CHOPING!!
That route was always a classic 5.8 leed, I would like to see some 5.10+ GYM GUMBY lead that with no bolts!!!
TAKE, WATCH ME, TAKE, Hang Dog!!!!!!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Bastille Crack in Eldo
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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It's gotta be something on Short Wall (Indian Cove)
Dawn-to-dusk, every weekend, there is a line of n00bs waiting to hurl themselves at the wall.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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I don't have as much time in Jtree for comparison, but I'm going with Khanom for After 6 (this was the first that popped into my head). Maybe Swan Slab.
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rockmuelle
Trad climber
B'ton, IN
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Bastille Crack, Calypso, or the Wind Ridge in Eldo. These all have lines almost every weekend (and many days after work :) ). They are also climbed year round, whereas Yosemite climbs are seasonal.
Though given all the sport climbers out there, the real winner may be some 5.6 sport route that people learn to lead on...
-Chris
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Something like 500 people/day on the cables for about half the year. That's going to make things like Swan Slab seem positively deserted.
Otherwise one of those things in the Alps...easy way up the Eiger or Matterhorn or somethng...they get probably 100 guided people/day too in season.
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Gene
climber
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First pitch of the Royal Arches. Everybody has climbed or attempted that route.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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After more reflection,
B-1 & B-2 Trash can Rock AKA Quail Springs picnic area
Those routes get hordes of small children, boyscout troops, church groups and girlfriends drug up them as long as there's daylight and it isn't snowing.
They even had to build a bigger parking lot.
There's a hilarious JL story (I think)involving a 300lb rabbi about why Joshua Trees are not suitable belay anchors.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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I have climbed double cross many times, but two ascents i will never forget.
The first time i ever climbed it, i lead it. I was with Dick Ciley, and some dude i just met named Rick Ridgeway, who was belaying me. I lead the route with no problems, and brought up Rick. He said nice lead, and we then went over and i lead Mama Woolsey, and again he said nice lead. he wasn't much of a conversationalist. After that route, i said, nice to meet you, and was going to go climb with someone else. He then asked me if i would like to be in a Patagonia catalog. He took some pictures of me, and a dude named Will in the HVCG, pretending to buy gear off of Dick Ciley, who was modeling a Patagonia sport jacket.
My second most memorable moment was the last time i climbed in JT with Walt, right before he died. Walt and i were walking around HVCG and stop in front of DC and there is a chic having trouble with the crux. She is on a TR, and is just hanging there, trying to face climb, and lieback it, but getting nowhere.
Walt is laughing, and starts yelling, "IT'S A CRACK", multiple times. I am not saying anything. There is a big group there, and they are staring at Walt and probably thinking he is a raving lunatic. Finally he sez f*#k this, and starts soloing the route, with the chic still stuck at the crux. Some guy looks at me, and asks, who is that guy? I reply that i don't know, i just met him, but he sure seems like an as#@&%e. The guy agrees. I ask this dude if he wants me to get Walt off the route, so his friend can finish, and he sez yes.
I say ok, watch this, and i throw a tennis ball, which i just found, at Walt. I am yelling at Walt to get off the route, while throwing this ball at him. I do this many times and hit Walt a few. Walt is laughing hysterically, and now everyone is looking at me like i am a lunatic.
Finally Walt catches the ball and is stopped at crux, next to the chic hanging on the route. He hands her the ball, and says, "here, this might help you out".
He finishes soloing the route, i walk away, and i can't imagine what everyone else there was thinking.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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A 300# Rabbi would make a fine belay anchor.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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What about Cragmont in Berkeley - long history which could bump the numbers up a bit, but I doubt it is getting climbed like it used to.
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Mojomonkey
climber
Philadelphia, PA
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I'd bet some of the easy Stolby/Siberia routes have to be up there, given the mass free soloing and 150+(?) years of climbing..
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Did some one say CHOP Double Cross?
IT sure would be fun to be young again!
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Jim E
climber
away
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I'm with Delhi Dog, it has to be in Europe.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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First pitch After Six, fo sho!
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pFranzen
Boulder climber
Portland, OR
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1 more vote for 5 Gallon Buckets. I'd love to know how many thousands of people have been up that pitch.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I agree with HAlf Dome cable route,
Not really a climb, and, the season's short.
Tokyo Bill should chime in. Seems like there's a classic beginner route in Japan that gets huge full time action, year around...
Yeah, interesting question. Some of those J Tree climbs get a real workout. Maybe the 5.4 or 5.5 route on Trashcan that folks TR, lead and solo the heck out of...
Cathedral: Thin Air?
Old Woman's at Seneca?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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MAYBE somewhere in Europe as SUGGESTED...
Nah, Europe never gets that crowded...
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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as far as west coast goes im with 5 gallon buckets at smith. since its a sport climb it goes quick. even on a tuesday in the middle of a snice storm in january theres a f*#kin line for that thing.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker? Off Topic:
Who Bolted Double Cross & Why?
Is it ok to Bolt classic climbs?
The Bolts should never been placed!!!!!
Would you approve bolting on?
1. Leave it to Bever
2. Tax Man
3. Illusion Dweller
4. Erotic City
5. Spider Line
Please read me earlyer posts!!!
I almost forgot Coarse and Buggy* as I remember it's thin and hard to protect?
Maybe I'm old and The ethics I learend from a great mentor (JB) don't mean sh#t Today.
Please let me Know
MIke
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Illusion Dweller?
As Walt would say "IT'S A CRACK"
Last time i got on Spiderline was with Walt too. I slipped and hit my head on the rock and said, damn the rock is hard, and Walt said, that's why it's called a rock.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Who Bolted Double Cross & Why?
If I'm not mistaken it was the FAist years after he put it up. He felt guilty that so many people were getting injured on it.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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The First Ascent of Double cross John, Rich& Mike Wolfe 1967
FFA Stark, Webster & Briggs 1967 ( I’m sure they used nuts and stoppers..)
So you mean to tell me that 40 years later they wanted bolts on this route.
Mr. Gordon Are you still The Mayor, Maybe you can help with this & what is your opinion?
MIke
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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I've sat around the campfire BSing about this question before. I guess it depends on what counts as a "climb". If the cables on HD count, then that is going to beat any of the other pitches name so far.
But if it means a roped climber climbing something that is at least 5 class, then I think it would be something where a large number of climbers can get a toprope in, probably from a guide and something that sees large crowds most of the year.
Swan slab is probably the best candiate in Yosemite. I've not been to after 6 for a while, but guides don't run dozens and dozens of climbers through there on a toprope (do they?). Climbs like Royal arches may have a crowd in the morning, but it is empty by mid-day and its not being climbed in the off-season.
I would think J-tree would have way more climable days than something back east like the gunks. I've not been to J-tree for a long while, but I don't really remember guides trying to run a large number of climbers through double cross all day long.
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Darren D.
Social climber
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Is it ok to Bolt classic climbs?
The Bolts should never been placed!!!!!
Figures on a Landscape has bolts and it's pretty classic. I'm sure they're are more...
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Darren, I hope it has no more bolts than the first ascent!
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker, are you telling me that it' ok to add BOLTS to any route?
Question Why did you do this? WHY, WHY Tell ALL!
I remember cleaning that thing in 1979 I was 15 I never lead it
but SOLOED my first time 1983!
MIke
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Locker, are you telling me that it' ok to add BOLTS to any route?
How do you get from a member of the FFA party added bolts to a specific climb because people kept getting hurt, to "add bolts to any route?"
I would guess in '67 they were driving pins, not placing homemade nuts.
There's retro bolts on Snake Dike, go chop them.
Thanks Locker for keeping it as Woody wanted it.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Maybe a European Vintage Via Ferrata, Would take the place of Half Dome?
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brett
climber
oregon
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=818261&msg=818446#msg818446
From the thread "How many times does Double Cross or Toe Jam get climbed ??" back in March:
"Some route at the Uberfall like maybe Laurel? Probably sees steady traffic 9 months a year, going back even longer in history. Does rain a bunch there though.
Routes on Morning Glory at Smith are likely gaining fast. Constant year round traffic with 5 Gallon Buckets and Magic Light seeing 20+ laps daily.
Record probably goes to some nondescript urban toprope used by schools and clubs"
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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I second Rick D's nomination of Beginners Crack at Carder Rock. Busy micro-crag next to big city with pretty mild weather.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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**Locker, When you placed bolts on that route you f---ed up did you hang on natural pro?
Care to confess about ANY MORE THAT YOU HAVE FOREVER Trashed!!!!!
I hope this is all a joke and you have good ethics?
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(Knott)
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
STUD
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Defineatly has to be a moderate, single pitch, with easy access, and good weather.
Amazing Face at Diablo gets a lot. But probably slows down on weekdays.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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The most climbed pitch in the whole wide world has gotta be the first pitch of the Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon; first climbed in the 50s and has people on it almost every day of the year. It's slicker than a wet snail on a doorknob.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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After what Zip was saying, maybe there needs to be some holds chisseled into the face on either side of that crack.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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CHAZ,
Like Walt said, it's a crack!
probably had to be there to see how funny it was.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Better chissel those holds extra-big then.
They're going to have to be foot-holds too.
I've seen tons of folks who absolutely refuse to jam a crack, mostly sport / gym climber types.
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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Beginner's crack in Carderock has the advantage of being climbed multiple times every day for over sixty years. Stoney Point has some contenders. But I'd guess that Trashcan Rock or Short Wall have caught up with the sheer volume they see.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I dunno, but if it's west of the Mississippi, I bet I've climbed it....
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Great idea?
Locker, To make it even safer for most people to solo (not you)
Turn it into The road side Via Ferrata, if you do i'm sure some one will give you a top rope on it.
Question, How many cracks in the park are now safer due to your BOLTING them?
Please tell all (name routes please)I'm sure all the great people who put The routes up would like to know.
The Tools should put you away.
Great job Today.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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I think this is my first post here. Anyhow there's a great crack down the road from our cabin called "the classic dihedral" on the Bucksnort slab. I've taken dozens of family and friends up it. It's the best 5.7 crack in the Platte. As for real routes, I done the Pervertical Sanctuary maybe six times. But only the second half Ron!
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Please list your top 10
Like I said we all want to Know so we can personal thank you.
Most of all Please let Randy Vogal know how many Bolts you have added to each rout, Mayde he will thank you for your life saving efforts and thank you in the ACKNOWLEDGMENTS or to the first rap bolt ascent of Double Cross ETC.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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locker,
i like your attitude.
i am gonna donate my ASCA winnings to you, to keep on bolting!
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Don’t forget to put rivet or bolt ladders on,
Spider Line
Course and buggy
All Three Ski tracks
Simple Simon
The Beaver
Acid Crack
Equinox
Moon Beam Crack
And what ever else you believe you have the right to f--k up!
This is some off the worst no ethics or standards bull sh-t I have ever imagined
Other than your belief system of no ethics I’m sure you’re a great guy.
And any other crack you will never do!
I need to go puke this OT TR. has me sick……………
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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What is the crux of Double Cross? Where exactly are the bolts? I have led the climb and run laps on it. The only place that I would think that a bolt would be justified is near the beginning when you traverse left into the crack. It is not particularly hard, but that's where I imagine the gumby gym climbers would freak out and fall on the rocks below. I recall that the entire crack could be sewed up with pro every three inches or so.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker
Great Troll,
I was PUNKED
Great Job I feel better about the world, now I can sleep!
That was the best!
Mike
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Locker,
you were joking?
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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I will refrain from flaming about retro-bolting and return to the OP's question.
I am not really familiar with so many places and crags, but based on my own experience I'd say the most climbed single pitch route would be on a crag in or near a large urban center that has no competing crags to lose climbers to and is relatively easy but slightly overhanging so you'll get a pump sooner or later and consequently doing laps on it would be seen as 'gud' trainig after/before work.
Do you have anything like that around your place?
I know I do. There are two small abandoned quarries in Budapest that fit the bill. I'm talking really close (15 minute bike ride from the city center, less by car). They are basically the only outlet poor, unmotorised youths and working men with no time have for there climbing in a city of 2 million.
I'd say that from March/April till November both get approximately 20 visitors daily on weekdays. Both have only about 5 routes that are regularly climbed.
You may say that 20 climbers ain't that much, but we're talking laps here, lots and lots of 'em. Climbing a route say 10-20 times in a session is considered normal, but diehard training fanatics have been rumored to squeeze in over 100 lap sessions.
That's a lot of climbing. Think over 100 laps on every route on every weekday from Spring till early Winter.
I'd guess there are similar setups in even larger urban areas or in areas with a lot more climbers. Vienna has two or three walls that have been climbed into useless heaps of grease over the years, I see that's where we are going, so how about your local crag?
Lasti
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Climber on Werk Supp, avoiding Bastille queue - photo courtesy of MP.com and Michael Komarnitsky
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Locker, BUMP...
Read this if you want and then you will know that locker is #1 for trolls
I call it PUNKED!
Biggest Laugh and joke on me in all my LIFE!
Great Job Locker
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:44am PT
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bunkwed up, wrote out answer but im in bed and lost the post to an errant motion.
Hey Gunkie, Do they still climb at Livsey rock, just out side of Philly?
Is Gunkie Jeff? No, I dont think so given you saidThat name just burns me up. I used to climb with him all the time. But he's a supreme dick. I heard he got a heart transplant or something like that after climbing a 5.13 with an image that got published in Climbing rag. I wonder if he even climbs anymore. theres a place that "Jeff" was all into. It is steeped in history, The senior Bill Shockley climbed there in the 50s/60s
Lynn Hill has been by this mud hole crag.
You have to cross a sweet sparkely 3 inch deep stream, the sparkels are from all the broken glass. . .
The crag its own self Is Diabase, Trapp-rock, and split by corner chimney affairs that go at 5,very easy.(till the top-out)
The main line a crack or runnel, that has now gotten so slick it is more 5.7 than the long given 5.6.the most climbed line there though is the notch gully in the back that runs up to the first top, theres a great boulder problem above that that if the glass is thin is safe-ish to top out.
when the No-axes fund was hiring I stopped into find that Gunkie might just be Jeff? if so ? so cool that you would play like that Nice Troll come clean here on this thread!
Back to what gets climbed the most in the lower 48? theres little doubt that, given the polish on the Quartzite, and that F Becky, top roped it
Laurel/Rhododendron, at the uber fal, Oh wait thats it for sure
The Down Climb, The Ubberfall.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 21, 2018 - 03:35am PT
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Yo mama.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Jan 21, 2018 - 03:41am PT
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Aunt Fanny's Pantry
EDIT
I just read the entire thread, k-man has the winner, Half Dome, cable route, although Karl has a point about it being closed part of the year, and is not really a "pitch", still...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 21, 2018 - 05:55am PT
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There's a couple topropes strung up at Stoney Point that have probably been in continuous use since they filmed Three on a Rope back in 1938
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 21, 2018 - 07:17am PT
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Hah. Is that a pic of you standing on MisterE? Serves him right....
BAd
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 21, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
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The thread is of course overwhelmingly California (AKA Paradise), but separating out the various popular areas in the US might be instructive. In particular, Devils Lake, which I last visited half a century ago. Brinton's Crack? Probably not, but then what?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
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Mr Gill , Sir, Your Egg Problem in the Gunks sees constant attention as do many other of you fine clambers.
\A pitch implies a rope and the "cables"? how do you even include that?
Seems like a contrivance of convenience.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:45pm PT
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Grack
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
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John, it is our duty as climbers who have travelled a bit to point out to the crowd here that there is climbing (even good climbing) that is not located in California. There is even excellent climbing to be found that is on rock other than granite. I have to admit that slabs and pin scars tend to get scarce once you leave the Golden State.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 21, 2018 - 01:55pm PT
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Probably some Idwal Slabs Vdiff route in Wales that's been climbed every day for a hundred years including with hobnailed boots in the pouring rain
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Climbert
climber
the t is silent
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Jan 21, 2018 - 02:44pm PT
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Either:
A) Potato chip rock at woodson. 1.5 hour line for a class 2 move.
B) Stairs. This class 1 route is copied at many manmade gyms. It has only 1 move which is repeated many times. Rise 7 inches Run 10.5 inches.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 02:46pm PT
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Midway Chimney at Castle Rock near Leavenworth has to be near the top.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jan 21, 2018 - 03:06pm PT
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Hey Gunkie, Do they still climb at Livsey rock, just out side of Philly? Is Gunkie Jeff?... theres a place that "Jeff" was all into. It is steeped in history, The senior Bill Shockley climbed there in the 50s/60s
Lynn Hill has been by this mud hole crag. You have to cross a sweet sparkely 3 inch deep stream, the sparkels are from all the broken glass. . . The crag its own self Is Diabase, Trapp-rock, and split by corner chimney affairs
Yes. A great little crag where many famous, semi-famous and never knowns have climbed and still climb at. Steep and pumpy in 25'.
No and I'm not sure which 'Jeff' you are referring. There have been many Jeffs that have climbed at the Watchung Reservation which you have pictures posted. The Jeff I'm referring to effectively got that place shut down. It was a great little workout crag for after work/pre-beer sessions.
the most climbed line there though is the notch gully in the back that runs up to the first top, theres a great boulder problem above that that if the glass is thin is safe-ish to top out. when the No-axes fund was hiring I stopped into find that Gunkie might just be Jeff? if so ? so cool that you would play like that Nice Troll come clean here on this thread!
Back to what gets climbed the most in the lower 48? theres little doubt that, given the polish on the Quartzite, and that F Becky, top roped it
Laurel/Rhododendron, at the uber fal, Oh wait thats it for sure
The Down Climb, The Ubberfall.
The most climbed pitch on the planet might be "Ken's Crack" in the Gunks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 06:05pm PT
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It would probably be more generative to ask which route in each area has the most ascents.
Mount Lemmon it would be Hitchcock Pinnacle original north face route. Lead it with the bolt already clipped on my first day out roped climbing in 1970.
Horseman at the Gunks would be another good bet.
After Six in Yosemite.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 07:40pm PT
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The most climbed pitch on the planet might be "Ken's Crack" in the Gunks.
that's a change from when I climbed there in the 80s and 90s. Back then you could always be sure it was open. What are the popular 'Gunks solos?
After Six might be in the running, if you include solo laps on the thing. But then the Flatirons would probably be in the running too.
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Lennox
climber
in the land of the blind
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Jan 21, 2018 - 08:47pm PT
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Anything at Swan Slab; YMS & noob city.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Jan 21, 2018 - 08:53pm PT
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Bears Reach
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 09:25pm PT
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Any 5.9 at a climbing gym in the Bay Area
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Dolores
Sport climber
Lucky Duck Drive Bethel Park
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Jan 21, 2018 - 11:56pm PT
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Double Cross
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 22, 2018 - 12:11am PT
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Half Dome cable route doesn't count because it is multi-pitch. The fact that most people french-free it without ropes doesn't make it a single-pitch route. Roper's green book rates it Class-5 Grade III if you avoid the via ferrata.
Alex Honnold linked all the pitches of Freerider, but that doesn't make it a single-pitch route.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 22, 2018 - 06:20am PT
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Any numbers out there?
Yes, speaking of Ken's Crack:
Ken Nichols' 10,000th ascent of Dol Guldur way back in 2012.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 22, 2018 - 07:36am PT
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I think you'd have to do a little research and figure out what area actually receives the most traffic. Joshua Tree seems like a likely candidate because there's such a flood of climbers there, basically from Sep. to May (not because it's in California).
Double Cross sees a lot of traffic but I wonder if Upper Right Ski Tracks, or Mike's Books doesn't see more.
Might be interesting to consider what 5.10 route sees the most traffic. Tough call.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 22, 2018 - 08:40am PT
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Seems like it’d have to be across the pond, shearly from years of use perspective.
Blanking on the name atm(LaPrestat?), but there’s a crack at Bas Cuvier that’d be a good candidate. FA circa 1920s, popular w the local alpine club at the time. Font is climbable year round and with a modern difficulty of about 5.7, easy enough draw the masses.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jan 22, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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Historically Tami probably has it right. Some place like Harrisons south of London where there are short top ropes. When I was there in 1990, there were groves in the sandstone a foot deep from rope wear.
In the US, maybe one of the short TR pitches at Stony Point. It's smack in the middle of the second largest city, has mostly good weather, and people have been climbing there since the 50s.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 22, 2018 - 11:05am PT
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What’s the winter climate like in that part of the UK? Seems like # of climbable days would be a factor.
I don’t know Italian climbing well, but seems like there should be some costal areas w year round climbing and a long history that would qualify. Southern France? Something near Barcelona?
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 23, 2018 - 12:09am PT
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Nice trolling picture, Locker! Consumnes River Gorge gets gangbanged all day every day. Summer or winter. Used by four or five guide services. Ive guided hundreds of climbers there. I think that Testpiece could be the winner for California climbs.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 23, 2018 - 05:42am PT
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Any ice in japan
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Jan 23, 2018 - 06:01am PT
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fyi: To discuss this you need to exclude Horseshoe Canyon Ranch because during the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, there are many routes that are climbed over 350 times (all on lead). And before that, the same routes are climbed in the 12 hour event for over 180 laps. That doesn't include the rest of the year. So in a 3 day time period I know of more than one route that get over 500 ascents. This has happened to the same easy sport routes year after year for the last 12 years. I wrote the scoring software so I have the exact number of ascents for each route for each year.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 23, 2018 - 07:07am PT
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@ Largo- I was thinking sort of the same in terms of #s of climbers . Im guessing J-tree and Yosemite probably have the largest # of climbers year per year in terms of visitation- Red Rocks and The Gunks as well . Hard to get a read on local crags.
At J Tree: Climbs like "The Bong" and "WHite Lightning" always have lines cued up- more so than Ski Track or Double Cross IMO(bservation) . Yosemite- you see people waiting in line for climbs like "Munginella", " and "The Grack"( although neither are technically a "single pitch" )
In reality I'm guessing the world-wide winner for a " single pitch" is probably an easy access top-rope or instructional climb. Probably in California - only because we good weather year round.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 23, 2018 - 07:23am PT
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Sunnyside bench Jamcrack route and After Six .....
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jan 23, 2018 - 07:24am PT
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Sail Away?
This was a great thread until locker let Fogarty off the hook.
Batten had a plan to be photographed placing a bolt on Double Cross. It never worked out, unfortunately.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 23, 2018 - 09:31am PT
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Sunnyside bench Jamcrack
that is a very popular climb, and most do only the first pitch which can be humbling, the slick crack start and all that
but even on very busy days I doubt it gets more than 20 people up it... and I've walked over and found no one at all on it occasionally
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Matt's
climber
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Jan 23, 2018 - 09:37am PT
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its going to be a climb that
1) can be climbed most of the year
2) has a sizable population very nearby
3) is free-soloable by an average joe.
my guess is that something in england, france or boulder fits the bill.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Jan 23, 2018 - 10:08am PT
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Stoopid thread really.
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Barbarian
climber
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Jan 23, 2018 - 11:19am PT
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Sunnyside bench Jamcrack route and After Six .....
Those are the ones that come to my mind.
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Jan 23, 2018 - 02:01pm PT
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I bet it's some route in Germany.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 23, 2018 - 03:12pm PT
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Or some Via Ferrata in Italy...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 23, 2018 - 03:51pm PT
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Pitches are like lovers...the ones less travelled by are the most desirable.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 23, 2018 - 04:40pm PT
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High E
Gunks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 23, 2018 - 07:46pm PT
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The most climbed pitch in Wyoming is the first pitch of Walts wall, in Vedauwoo.
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BigWall Chris 101
Trad climber
Vail
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Jan 23, 2018 - 09:31pm PT
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I am sure Calypso has been already mentioned. Probably most accidents along with bastille crack. Maybe 1st pitch of Friday 13th for something a little harder. J crack at lumpy? Definitely incredible hand crack is on the list. For something 5.12, Heinous Cling at Smith Rocks. I guess bastille crack is multi pitch and Calypso has a second pitch. Along with J crack. I stick with the incredible hand crack and Heinous Cling. Maybe Sail Away in Joshua Tree? 80 feet of Meat at Rifle. Most climbed 5.13 is definitely Turning in the Wake at Smith.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 23, 2018 - 11:22pm PT
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How about some of those things on the sunny side of Trashcan Rock at Josh?
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jan 24, 2018 - 08:06am PT
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The most climbed pitch in Wyoming is the first pitch of Walts wall, in Vedauwoo.
The Langford-Stevenson (aka Owen-Spalding) on the Grand is a contender these days.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 24, 2018 - 08:29am PT
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Yeah, but it has an approach...
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TLP
climber
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Jan 24, 2018 - 09:36pm PT
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A slight thread drift could be entertaining as well: what piece of fixed pro has held the most falls? As in, a specific fixed piton or bolt. Over multiple beers once, long ago, we tried to count up how many falls - that we knew about - had been taken on the fixed pin below the crux of the climb that we planned to do the next morning... kind of sobering! It was my lead, and for damn sure I didn't add another fall to that abused little piece of steel.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 25, 2018 - 09:48am PT
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TM himself would mob After Six solo...
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big ears
Trad climber
?
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Jan 25, 2018 - 09:50am PT
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First pitch of Bastille crack in eldo
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jan 25, 2018 - 09:56am PT
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There are some routes on the Stumbling Blocks at Malibu that done many times every day, all year round. There is ALWAYS a top rope on these and I would think they get done way more than a route in the desert in Josh where it is too hot to climb half of the year.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 25, 2018 - 10:45am PT
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Okay Jebus, tell us what route on highway 50 gets more traffic. And by the way, do you not like the huge shiny new bolted anchors that OA installed? Newbies have to climb somewhere safe and accessible. Would you rather guides set up TRs all day at the leap? Remember, you were once a newbie too... But you may be right that it is known mostly to locals. So what is highway 50s most climbed pitch in your opinion?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 25, 2018 - 12:02pm PT
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Some 5.9 bolted route at Red Rocks.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 25, 2018 - 02:15pm PT
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Seems like this pitch of the wall been busy since the Mongol days
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 25, 2018 - 02:44pm PT
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I would say The Tree Route at Dome Rock in the Needles, but thankfully the Needles don't get as much traffic.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Jan 25, 2018 - 03:19pm PT
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How about the route up to one of the larger Anasazi cliff dwellings....
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 25, 2018 - 03:54pm PT
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Devils Lake, anyone? It's been fifty years since my last visit.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 25, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
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Glenfiddich.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jan 26, 2018 - 12:01am PT
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Its not in the U.S.
S....
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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Jan 26, 2018 - 07:37am PT
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Incredible Hand crack, that thing gets gangbanged
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 26, 2018 - 01:42pm PT
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If top rope ascents are counted I nominate Beethoven Wall at Stoney Point.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 16, 2018 - 10:26am PT
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It's probably some non-classic pitch somewhere that a climbing school has a rope on every day teaching groups constantly on
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2018 - 12:31pm PT
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To that end, the top ropes on the School Room slab on Wall Street see a Lot of traffic! No doubt someone is them right now could be several ascents in the next few hours.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 16, 2018 - 03:25pm PT
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There is nothing at Stoney Point that gets climbed even 25% of what the routes at Malibu get climbed. And these are sport climbers so they always arrive as a crowd.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 16, 2018 - 03:40pm PT
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You westys are all way off the mark. there are dozens of 5.2 to 5.6 7 etc climbs at the gunks that have a 30 year head start on most of your stuff and are completely mobbed from march to November...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Feb 16, 2018 - 04:41pm PT
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But the Euro areas have another 30+ years on you and many of them have more pleasant winter conditions.
Also, relative to a place like Malibu that headstart doesn’t mean much when they likely have 2X as many climbable days/year as the Gunks.
My money is still on Italy.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 16, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
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In the states its something near the uberfall @ the gunks...
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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Feb 17, 2018 - 05:02am PT
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YOUR MOM
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