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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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1st pitch of the Bastille has to be up there. I don't think I have ever seen it without a line, and sometimes a line after dark!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Fer shur Double Cross.
Especially now since there's a bolt at the crux.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I've only climbed in California, and I can't even answer the question for that, even with 42 years of climbing experience, because there are so many areas I've seldom been to. With that caveat, I think JTree sees more climber-days than Yosemite, although Swan Slab Gully and its variants might come close. Bishop's Terrace is usually climbable year-round, but not at all hours of the day. In any case, I can always count on a line near Swan Slab, but there are plenty of times when Bishop's Terrace is completely open.
I don't know Joshua Tree well enough to know which routes are most likely to be populated, but if I had to guess, I'd go for one with a very short approach, good rock, good pro and moderate difficulty.
John
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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I agree Double cross I forget that it was HOMO BOLTED!!!
That clasic should be CHOPED with all the ethics of no trace CHOPING!!
That route was always a classic 5.8 leed, I would like to see some 5.10+ GYM GUMBY lead that with no bolts!!!
TAKE, WATCH ME, TAKE, Hang Dog!!!!!!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Bastille Crack in Eldo
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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It's gotta be something on Short Wall (Indian Cove)
Dawn-to-dusk, every weekend, there is a line of n00bs waiting to hurl themselves at the wall.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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I don't have as much time in Jtree for comparison, but I'm going with Khanom for After 6 (this was the first that popped into my head). Maybe Swan Slab.
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rockmuelle
Trad climber
B'ton, IN
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Bastille Crack, Calypso, or the Wind Ridge in Eldo. These all have lines almost every weekend (and many days after work :) ). They are also climbed year round, whereas Yosemite climbs are seasonal.
Though given all the sport climbers out there, the real winner may be some 5.6 sport route that people learn to lead on...
-Chris
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Something like 500 people/day on the cables for about half the year. That's going to make things like Swan Slab seem positively deserted.
Otherwise one of those things in the Alps...easy way up the Eiger or Matterhorn or somethng...they get probably 100 guided people/day too in season.
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Gene
climber
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First pitch of the Royal Arches. Everybody has climbed or attempted that route.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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After more reflection,
B-1 & B-2 Trash can Rock AKA Quail Springs picnic area
Those routes get hordes of small children, boyscout troops, church groups and girlfriends drug up them as long as there's daylight and it isn't snowing.
They even had to build a bigger parking lot.
There's a hilarious JL story (I think)involving a 300lb rabbi about why Joshua Trees are not suitable belay anchors.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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I have climbed double cross many times, but two ascents i will never forget.
The first time i ever climbed it, i lead it. I was with Dick Ciley, and some dude i just met named Rick Ridgeway, who was belaying me. I lead the route with no problems, and brought up Rick. He said nice lead, and we then went over and i lead Mama Woolsey, and again he said nice lead. he wasn't much of a conversationalist. After that route, i said, nice to meet you, and was going to go climb with someone else. He then asked me if i would like to be in a Patagonia catalog. He took some pictures of me, and a dude named Will in the HVCG, pretending to buy gear off of Dick Ciley, who was modeling a Patagonia sport jacket.
My second most memorable moment was the last time i climbed in JT with Walt, right before he died. Walt and i were walking around HVCG and stop in front of DC and there is a chic having trouble with the crux. She is on a TR, and is just hanging there, trying to face climb, and lieback it, but getting nowhere.
Walt is laughing, and starts yelling, "IT'S A CRACK", multiple times. I am not saying anything. There is a big group there, and they are staring at Walt and probably thinking he is a raving lunatic. Finally he sez f*#k this, and starts soloing the route, with the chic still stuck at the crux. Some guy looks at me, and asks, who is that guy? I reply that i don't know, i just met him, but he sure seems like an as#@&%e. The guy agrees. I ask this dude if he wants me to get Walt off the route, so his friend can finish, and he sez yes.
I say ok, watch this, and i throw a tennis ball, which i just found, at Walt. I am yelling at Walt to get off the route, while throwing this ball at him. I do this many times and hit Walt a few. Walt is laughing hysterically, and now everyone is looking at me like i am a lunatic.
Finally Walt catches the ball and is stopped at crux, next to the chic hanging on the route. He hands her the ball, and says, "here, this might help you out".
He finishes soloing the route, i walk away, and i can't imagine what everyone else there was thinking.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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A 300# Rabbi would make a fine belay anchor.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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What about Cragmont in Berkeley - long history which could bump the numbers up a bit, but I doubt it is getting climbed like it used to.
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Mojomonkey
climber
Philadelphia, PA
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I'd bet some of the easy Stolby/Siberia routes have to be up there, given the mass free soloing and 150+(?) years of climbing..
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Did some one say CHOP Double Cross?
IT sure would be fun to be young again!
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Jim E
climber
away
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I'm with Delhi Dog, it has to be in Europe.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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First pitch After Six, fo sho!
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pFranzen
Boulder climber
Portland, OR
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1 more vote for 5 Gallon Buckets. I'd love to know how many thousands of people have been up that pitch.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I agree with HAlf Dome cable route,
Not really a climb, and, the season's short.
Tokyo Bill should chime in. Seems like there's a classic beginner route in Japan that gets huge full time action, year around...
Yeah, interesting question. Some of those J Tree climbs get a real workout. Maybe the 5.4 or 5.5 route on Trashcan that folks TR, lead and solo the heck out of...
Cathedral: Thin Air?
Old Woman's at Seneca?
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