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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Lila,
Friday the 13 is supposed to be wet. But still a long way off. I could possibly be there in the morning. Want to head to the mountains to ski in the afternoon.
Maybe Guyman, Levy, Pyro, SOWR or others can come if you give us a time.
Spider
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Hey, thanks, Spider. I will post again next week before I fly out, but I am at your guys' disposal -- you are the ones kind enough to show me around. :) So, if you pick a time in the a.m., I will make sure to be there.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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10b .... come on out tomorrow morning... I have been working on cleaning up some of the ART. Rainy days are best, you get all muddy and everything.
And Gome... its still OK to do mantles. I do show all the PAD people who show up when its raining, to the Lions Head and the Wilson Mantles. But all they want to do is MASTERS.
But THE REAL ISSUE are the scheduled guide services, REI and that dude in Chatsworth... cliffs and crags or whatever he calls his outfit.
They show up in a steady drizzle, with ropes at the ready. I have walked next to the GUIDE and the group of noobs.. telling the noobs not to climb at Stoney when its wet, or any sandstone, and letting the guide know that HE is a total as#@&%e.
Makes me popular with everybody.
I don't get it
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 11, 2017 - 08:35pm PT
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LiliBeane..... you still coming out?
Looking like it might be sunny on Friday.
I would love to meet you and show you around Stoney.
After 3p works best for me, my boss is pretty understanding when I tell him "I must go to Stoney"....
The PM function on Taco is on the fritz...
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Jan 11, 2017 - 09:31pm PT
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Yes! Would love to see Stoney! Here is my email - dolt.original@gmail.com. I'm flying in late tomorrow & will visit Dolt's resting place in the morning. 3p works great - thank you so much. PM me & I'll send my mobile no. Yay!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 12, 2017 - 07:57am PT
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I'm really sorry I can't be there.
I will be there on Tuesday.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 12, 2017 - 08:04am PT
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I have been working on cleaning up some of the ART. Rainy days are best, you get all muddy and everything
Come on, let's go.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 12, 2017 - 09:13am PT
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Lila... msg sent via E-mail.... see ya at 3:30...
10b... I might bring my kit to SP on Sat afternoon. I have found the best color is a Sherwin Williams Tint known as MUSHROOM #HSGW2494 .... in flat out door paint. A 4" old brush works best, with the bristles sticking out at all angles. You never brush, rather just dab all over the lines and let the paint go on very spotty and thin. This way the ART just sort of fades away. I also have some Sherwin Williams flat white that I mix in and repeat after the first layer dries off ... I have worked over some spots and am starting to get the hang of it.... it just sort of dissolves the art so you can't read the love letter to the GF...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 12, 2017 - 09:19am PT
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God, I hope you are joking.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 13, 2017 - 07:40am PT
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Mark no joke....
Justhemaid and Jim Wilson were doing the duty, but for the last few years there has been nobody doing the work...
Its hard and takes time and $$$$$ .
I have had a whole bunch of the young climbers asking what they can do.
When I have the colors figured out we are going to mark out all of the ART.
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Jan 13, 2017 - 01:57pm PT
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FYI last time i was there (maybe a couple weeks ago before the soak) i saw the "clean up" that the guy on mountain project was talking about and i must say it looks terrible. it looks like a real half ass effort and sure its hard work but he should've left it to someone else who has more experience. It looks like he took a brush and followed the exact lines that the taggers made and definitely went over some of the holds but then he didnt do the small obvious trailside rocks which everyone walks by. just my opinion but other people also agreed that he did a terrible job.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 16, 2017 - 09:41am PT
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Moe Beta..... working on it... quite alone I might add. The folks from MP came out and trucked off a big pile of, two truck loads, of trash. That is a really good thing. I have been doing the paint out all by myself and it takes a lot of time and you must go back over the same ground many times or it looks like you just slapped paint on quickly.
I have found that it takes several applications of just dabbed on paint, in different shades. Look at SP from the North, as you drive down Topanga...
I have rubbed out 3 of those big murals you can see from the 118! but there is still a ton more to go.
I agree the sh#t along the trails, especially the bright metalic blue, is most offensive. Its really hard to cover because you need to start with something that is quite thick.
And I agree it looks like sh#t also, but what is the alternative?
To do nothing?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 16, 2017 - 09:51am PT
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Thanks Guyman for the clean up work.
Sorry to miss Lila. The mountains were calling and I had to go.
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chefer
climber
Altadena, CA
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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Is it okay to climb at stoney today? Is the rock dry enough yet?
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:37am PT
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This was one of the great precipitation events of recent LA memory... Everything will be soaked to its core and needs tons of time (to be sticky)... while climbing there would be scenic, beautiful... I'm guessing alot of holds could be delicate... and if you need the practice/pump choose problems whose style doesn't risk breaking a hold. I usually never arrive later than 7am though. Mid day things can be cooked through even after rain... but its low friction for sure, so the visit will be what you make of it... Enjoy!
regarding the PCA cleanup- I understand everyones concerns about how to remove tags... and even though it does look sloppy and rough, makes hoof-and-mouth more true to itself... I always thought it best to just leave them up : / unless I guess they cover super main problems... thinking it like a spot akin to 'burnside' for skateboarding... I think it a minor miracle that there isnt less of it at stoney point . very much appreciate the efforts in garbage and the new stewardship evolving as the community grows. <3
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Jan 18, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
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Guy, I appreciate all the hard work but i guess i didn't fully understand that it is a process..Hopefully it'll become less noticeable as time goes on. In person the cover-up is more noticeable and doesnt like quite natural but in pictures the graffiti does seem to disappear. I guess doing the work is better than not doing it in some cases. The cover-up on pyramid rock down the trail is a full blanket of solid beige. That might be better for the trailside rocks that dont have climbs on them. The northside of the park is getting hit a lot more these days. This issue is quite frustrating, one area gets better and another area gets worse. Its like a never ending cycle..very frustrating for sure but at least someone is trying.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 18, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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Moe... i appreciate any and all comments. There are a few people working on this-- who I don't know. Did someone cover up the Metalic Blue on pyramid? The place where "corner the market" is located???
EDIT: Yes the solid beige wall of paint... I decided to do this this way because if you go at rocks that have problems and just put on a nice thick coat of paint... the footholds and hand holds are ruined... I try to stay off of them... the taggers paint is thin and wears off quickly, so why add more.
I just looked at the blue and decided oh sh#t... I need to start doing something about all of this sh#t...
I know painting stuff out looks like hell, but I think that just obliterating the taggers name and what they did to the GF or how much they smoke... helps.
say hi, next time you see me... I like puttin names to peoples avatars... I do think I know you.
Peace
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Jan 20, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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Guy, you know who I am for sure! We've "met" each other many times at stoney and even hung out at jeff's one night hah no worries i understand that in the groves of people that you meet, the names get lost. Its Moe!
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 25, 2017 - 07:48am PT
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Took some friends, from out of town, there yesterday. They wanted to see it as they had heard what a great place it was. They were disappointed. They said all the holds were breaking off.
They also said they didn't like the paint on the rocks.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jan 25, 2017 - 08:30am PT
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after a long period of rain, STAY OFF THE ROCK FOR A WEEK.
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