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pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2009 - 12:30am PT
Just another fine day at Stoney Point!
have a nice day!
with love from Stoner's Point!

p.s if it's ur first time check'n this thread be sure to scroll all the way to the right, then click "the last" for latest updates.


ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
the ground up
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:30am PT
Nice pictures . The new forum is sick looking . Thanks for posting .
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Sep 30, 2009 - 09:02am PT
Pyro, thanks for stirring fond memories. I spent a lot of time there in the 60's with my buddies, my dear old mom would take us boys out before we could drive ourselves and wait in he car with her rosery beads......the road where you park wasn't there, it looks a lot cleaner now.....oh how time flies and things change with B1 & balance rock still there and my old friend Roy long gone. Savor your time with friends in the sun, thanks again berg heil.

Charlie D.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 30, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
Pyro, nice.

Keep it up.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
I live in Burbank but have not climbed at Stoney in at least 10 years. In the early 80's thru mid 90's I climbed there at least 4 days a week if not more. I remember lots of faces but few names except for Kamps of course, Waugh and a couple who's names I cant remember but they climbed there everyday, he had a fused ankle but it did little to slow him down and his wife climbed at a level that was seldom equaled by women back then. They were the best bouldering companions. I think their names were Jim and Laura, Jim had a kind of salt and pepper fro going on and was big into the Greatfull Dead. It is the relationships that I miss most.

I have young kids now and need to get out there and introduce them to the place like my dad did.

Thanks for the pics Pyro.

Kevin Mokracek
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
Thanks to all Stoney folks who were customers of Art of Climbing... backin the day....
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
Is that where I bought my spider tcu's (circa 1986-7)? Still use them today.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
I once did three pigs 100 times in a row to get ready for the vampire and flakes.

I used to do like 10 laps on Crystal Ball. I never see anyone these days do that route.

Juan
DMBARN

climber
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
All us climbers should be thanking YOU Ed Bannister. That shop was awesome. I took my first climbing class through your shop with Alan Bard. Took a wilderness first aide course which led me to become an EMT and wound up as a Trauma RN taking care of Yosemite climbers from time to time. The slide shows from people like Peter Hacket and one of the Lowe brothers (I can't remember which one) were inspiring. Bought my first stopper from you. When you think of the likes of Robbins and Chouinard to all who climbed at Stoney, it (and your shop) spawned a lot of great climbers.
Thanks,
Doug
dfrost7

Social climber
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
I used to boulder there on the way home from Ventura. I was making trips
to Bend a lot then, due to some work I was doing at Metolius. I always liked getting a climber who would be a rider for the long trip. It made me happy to do this because a lot of times people can't afford the trip and they would be going to a really great area. In this case, meet the Metolius crew, too.

Met a kid named Jay Decker there one day and told him where I was going and if he wanted to ride up, and could leave the next day, he was welcome to come along (Smith Rock). He did. We were there a week and he climbed his first 5.10, 5.11 that week. We came home and he quit his job, packed up and moved to Bend. It was so great to see that happen for him. All because of Stoney Point. The End.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 30, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
One of the most picturesque areas in Los Angeles- what does that tell you?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
Porno's4pyro! Jim.

this year alone have stumbled into four porno's being filmed. women getting their photo's taken with other women, ebony shots, nude men shots and etc. big on porn out here.


bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 30, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
Looks like a cool place as a local crag.

I'd hit that!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 30, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Sep 30, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
Nice pictures. I haven't been back in quite awhile. One of the last times I was there I fell on Rock One when holds snapped and I broke both my wrists.
Ruined a trip to Alaska for both Nick Badirka and I..........

I might just have to go back one of these tuesdays when I'm in town.

Jack
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Sep 30, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
Thanks for the pics. I bouldered there in the 80s and still sneak in once in a while when I am in LA for business.

But whats up with the pads. Where is carpet??


PS with two herniated discs I now have a cushy pad
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
"Just a really wet day for Stoney Point".

"PLEASE STAY OFF THE ROCK AFTER A RAIN STORM FOR AT LEAST 3-5DAYS".
Thank-you climbers!



Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Oct 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
There are a few areas that can still be climbed.

Hot Tuna

Aid Climb inside the train tunnel. Wouldn't be the first time.

The base of planet of the ape wall stays dry at Malibu Creek.

MMM
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
cool looking boulder....

but not when it's under water!!!

Cheers to the Stoney Point Crew!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
Thanks for the TR - I've seen pictures of people climbing/bouldering at Stony (Stoney?) Point, and knew about its place in history, but never seen area and panorama photos of it. So even though JDF's photo is annoyingly wide, it does provide a nice perspective on the place.

To illustrate, somehow I always thought it was on the ocean. Apparently not.
hooblie

climber
Oct 14, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
annoyingly wide? it takes like 52 seconds for my arrow button to find the next page, for what, some rubble next to an overpass?
i mean which pixel was supposed to put me over the edge? i'll tell you. it was the 1280th
you better hide your chihuahua young man, i'm beyond the age of reason

edit: okay, i overreached re: the dog. it worked for the wicked witch, but sheez, if you can't paint a picture with a thousand pixels....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
I would know about the Ape's wall considered I live 4 min away! getting to the wall on a rainy day suck's!
Hot Tuna is a dry place, however I'd rather go to Boulderdash indoor rock climbing gym. That way I can socialize and climb at the same time.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 14, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
I gonna be on that standstone come Fri, my state unpaid day off.
Training for the Nose of Big Stone near the road.

I predict I will be doing three pigs again in less than 30 days.

Juan "Big T" De Fuca
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
I'm not bothered by the J.D.F panorama pic at all. I gives the viewers a chance to see that Stoney is suburban climbing.
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Oct 14, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
For those that maybe following chatworth climbing treads.

But the pic of the rock in the aid climbing tread.

The formation can be seen on top of the ridge above the orange tile roof in the pan. pic

MMM
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 15, 2009 - 12:33am PT
That big roof pitch is rad. More fun then the Kor Roof.

I rope soloed it years ago.

Second Ascent
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 15, 2009 - 04:53am PT
hey there pyro, say....

wonderful to see such nice rock pics...!!!

(wow, juan's is only halfway coming into view!)

*say, not being a climber, i really LIKED the rainy day pics, as well...

bldrjc (jack)(hope i got that right)---say, breaking both wrist was sure a "limiting event" for the ol' body... wow... i broke only one, once, but i could do near about anything except braid my hair---i just used the arm to manuever around somehow to help the well hand, even used my toes, so i cold knit... :O
thanks for the share...
hope they never ache and give you trouble..
hope you got to see alaska...

lastly, hhhhmm...forgot what else i was going to say... now... oh my...
great stuff here, though...

*edit: oh i know what it was..

say, juan, if your out on the ol' "sandstone" as you said, for friday,
well happy climb to you... and best wishes for it all...

*sandstone?

edit: see the pic, now, wow--fantastic picture juan, good ol' calif...
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Oct 15, 2009 - 09:51am PT
Boy, I haven't been to stoney in over 10 years. Definately some fond memories there.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 15, 2009 - 11:46am PT
It's best to just stay off the stuff till it dries out.

We have lost many "great problems" because of knuckle heads who are stupid f-ks.

Last winter, while it was raining hard, I was driving past and saw a big group of climbers unloading pads.

I made an emergency U turn......

Then we had a "little talk" about Stoney with these dudes..... They packed away the pads.

You gotta take care of your crags.

GK
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 15, 2009 - 11:51am PT
I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86

Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.

Pads. What little girls.

Juan
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 15, 2009 - 11:58am PT
I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86

Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.

Pads. What little girls.

Juan


Juan....please don't hang your massive bod off any holds, ok?

C-ya friday.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 15, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
Cool..... did you make them eat it?

I know someone who caught a "graffiti artist" at work.

Held him down, and sprayed down his face with the paint.....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
i've heard that spray paint story before. funny stuff!
yeah it's kinda comforting to know that the Stoney crew drives up and down Topanga throughout the day watching and regulating climbers and their activity!
I'll post more pic's when the time comes!
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 15, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
Good to finally meet you the other day at Echo, Pyro! Wish we'd had more time to hang out!

Nice pics! Erik
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Oct 15, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
Careful Donini or Charley the Man Manson is going to pay you a visit for ragging on his turf.
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 15, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Oct 15, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
Yeah, I really miss the place!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 15, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
hey there say, juan... wow, so now they got the best garden scenery in town, i'd reckon.... ;)


as to your quote:
I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86
Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.

say, do you have a picture? how large is it...
lynda had a neat boulder in yard in el portal---though it was not broken off from a climb---it did it's own "planting"... rocks in yards are wonderful... sure love them rocks...
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2009 - 12:57am PT
Just another bitch'n day at Stoney Point!


Thank's for watching!

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 21, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
Pyro...... thanks for posting.

The paint really gets me. The dam graffiti placed by "MS13" is bad enuf, but now we have some "Eco-do gooders" painting over the stone! Fu-k two coats of paint is extra slick.

And some other do-gooders took a "Hydro-blaster" to the stone, that wore off the patina exposing the soft soft soft stone underneeth, we lost good problems.

Bob Kamps was the keeper of the stone, we need a new one, how about you pyro?
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 21, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
Fat..... no way! Juan is now only a lurker.

He is never seen around those parts anymore. The photos he posted were from BITD....

If we see him we will post up some photos.

gk
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 21, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
I have stood in front of a water blast crew and defended boulder one in the early 90's. They called the police on me.

I also have gone after film crews f*#king up the rocks.

As for painting over Graffiti I have never touched Boulder one or Turlock.
All my painting except for some on Mozarts was done on the summit boulder field.

I was their last Friday and it is looking really bad again.

When I can do the pigs again I shall appear.

Juan
Howie S

climber
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 21, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
Wow,

So cool to see pics of where I cut my climbing teeth. Haven't been there in probably 13 years.

Such fond memories of bouldering with Kamps, Wilson, Guy, Forrest and Dimitry, amongst others. Bob showed me so many crazy ass traverses with some seriously contrived and contorted body positions.

What's with all the pads? Didn't have that stuff BITD. Every body should have the full experience of pitching off onto the hard dirt below Endo Boy, Yobo mantle or the like!

Also, I love how Stoney just used the B scale. So much easier to figure out ratings. If it was 5.11 or under, it could be done. If it was B1 or B1+, it would take a lot of work, but it could be done. If it was B2 or B3, it most likely was impossible :) Then again, the vibe was more like three classes of problems. I can do it, I might be able to do it, or no F-ing way I can do it.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Oct 21, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
I love people that come out to Stoney and then complain about having to do 'Eliminates'. I have been climbing there for 37 years! How in the hell am I supposed to keep things interesting unless we start eliminating the easy holds. Bouldering is a game best played with a tightly structured set of rules.


'That hold's off!'.
Howie S

climber
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 21, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
Eliminates are what make it interesting!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
What the heck happened to Waugh's hair???? My grandma has a nice shade of blue hair dye he should start using.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
KIds and a wife!!!!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
Oh, come on, Mikey had kids and a wife when I worked with him on the fire dept. I think he dyes it.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
guyman becoming keeper of the stone would be quite the honor! Bob was the keeper of the stone. give me twenty some years then i'll take you up on that. besides I like taking pictures too share online it's rich culture of climbing.
BBA

Social climber
West Linn OR
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
The more things change, the more they stay the same...


dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
Pumping the Three Pigs! If I could Just pump that out I could climb 5.10. That was my thinking long ago. I remember many days in the summer after work we would boulder at Stoney, Lots of history. It was a dump then and still today. I guess that’s what makes it Cool.

Dogtown.
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
I would like to throw one of the shaved head taggers off Jesus Wall.

Juan

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Oct 21, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
The human G_Gnome project:


JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 21, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
I noticed that a key hold to the left of three pigs is now gone. Was that done during the water blasting. I used to be able to crank up and avoid using the first three holes. If it was water blasting who the f*#k did it?

Juan
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 01:45am PT
the future is

good times!

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 11:35am PT
BBA~thank's for posting the picture of the climbers on Boulder one!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 22, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
BBA good shots. You take em?

The one legged man is sort of famous, I can't remember his name. I did see a old LA Times article about him, he was climbing, leading, "Finger Tip" at Taquitz.

I love the "White Dude" graffiti, wish we could preserve some of it. After the last fire we found some: "Ken" "Don" "John" "1970" .......

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 22, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
Swelley..

Good memory, but it's Jim Gorin with the one leg.

I found a Sierra Club historical persons site.

Jim had a comment that he could climb better with one leg cause he did not have the extra weight hanging on him. Ha Ha aha .....

Ray is his bro, both were long time climbers, Sierra Club members.

Right above there listings is one for "K. Goodykuntz" now that is a name I seem to remember from BITD.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
Y'all remember when Chelsea was a regular...?


There's some good top outs at Stoney..


I'll be seeing you guys out there pretty soon, btw...
Maybe next week. Tuesday.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
Kris thank's for reminding me of Chelsea! I remember when she was climbing around Stoney! she was so nice to me. what a cool climber chick!
thanks for the pictures.
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
I will be at Stoney Tomorrow. Getting Back in shape after getting my life back.

Juan
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:12pm PT

Back in the Day when I was climbing solid 5.11.

1988.

Notice the fancy cool Lycra.

Juan
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:57pm PT

My 2nd Month of climbing

Check out the sticky shoes!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 11:31am PT
Jeff nice picture's. keep em coming!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 23, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
I thought hard about posting these pictures, but decided it would be ok.

It was a sad but very special day when climbers and friends came to Stoney Point from all over the place to remember their friend, mentor, The Master, Bob Kamps.



May 24, 2005.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 23, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
Juan,

You got any pictures of Mommas Boy? I always like setting up shop doing laps on the Iguana on days that I cut high school classes.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 23, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Wow, that last photo is quite the role call. Lots of hard climbing stretched among them.

Is Beverly (Woolsey) where the 'Mama Woolsey' route name originated?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Oct 23, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
Yep, she would be That Momma, Woolsey.

Funny note about Papa Woolsey, Chris Wegoner was new to Josh and had started bolting that face when Powell showed up and booted him off as too inexperienced to deserve such a fine line.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 23, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
Yes.

Good shots Kris. What I remember most about that day, was when a falcon keep swooping down close to the climbers. I have never seen a falcon before or since at Stoney.

I think it was a sign.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
Yes, I remember that bird. Came through right at the end - a very beautiful flight.

I know we're all in the same boat: still can't go to Stoney Point without having fond memories of Bob Kamps. He was there when I made my first visit in January 1992 I think. He saw a new face and gave us the tour. I made the mistake of telling him I climbed in the Gunks, so he saved Hot Tuna for last.

Few things in climbing measure up to being artfully sandbagged by the best.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
thanks kris for the pics and feel free to post anything about the Point.
yes that was a sad day! I miss Bobby and his cool climber style!
10b4me

Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
Oct 23, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
brings back some good memories
BBA

Social climber
West Linn OR
Oct 23, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
Guyman - The one legged climber was Gorin, first name either Ray or Roy. He was always a surprise to see when he attacked the rock. I didn't take the shots, I believe a friend named Dave Harvey did. I'm to the right between Yvon and Harry "Latex" Daley who also called himself "the Mace" because he was a Sierra Clubber. TM Herbert is on the left.

In looking at the air view of the area, the biggest change is that the old road was two lanes and was at the same level as Boulder #1
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 27, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
BBA, Thanks for the info.

Lot's of fun over the years at the point. I started climbing there in 1973 and guys like Yvon, TM,RR, Kamps were legendary figures.

We will add you to the list.

Got any more photos?

Post em up.

GK


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
just a windy day at Stoney Point.

enjoy!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 28, 2009 - 12:26am PT
A shot of Don Lauria from the 1968 Chouinard Equipment catalog.

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Oct 28, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Thanks for the good spot guys, all I see is arms crossed and backs turned.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
here ya go Don L an Matty your both climbing the "crowd pleaser".
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 29, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
I'm amazed looking at that 1968 photo how much more flaky and featured the rock was before compared to now, when a couple of generations since have worked it over.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Oct 29, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
Props to the Old Dads!! Lookin' good Jan!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 29, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
I took about 8 months off from Stoney in the last year, now that I have been taking T I have gone 3 times in three weeks.

It is truly amazing. I am totally weak now but hope to get back on the pigs.

Juan
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
hey Jeff
on tuesday some kid decided to pull out his chisel and hammer. I was walking back from Turlock and I thought he was pounding in a Pin. right at the start of the downclimb you'll notice like five new chisel marks. we ousted that kid and his friends immediately from the point. His excuse was that he could'nt get up to the top somehow and making a good foot hold was going to help! the funny thing about all that crazy scene is that he had a crash pad but no climbing shoes!

P.S. If that same kid is reading my posting then listen. Go gets some rock boots then get over to Stoney Point. we'll teach you how to rock climb!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 29, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
So the question is: Who's missing their crash pad?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
just another spectacular day at Stoney point!
temps were just right.
time change occurred a few weeks ago and all of us are having to adapt to it.

have a good day!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
hey thank's for responding. the Stoney Point thread is just getting started! this place has many areas of climbing interest. i'll bring more pic's to the table.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Nov 19, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
It's pretty amazing to see the whole street full of cars and nowhere to park even after daylight savings has left us. This place just keeps drawing us in. So do the friends we meet there.
powderdan

Social climber
mammoth lakes
Nov 20, 2009 - 12:04am PT
does anyone remember the sword guy from around 88. apparently he rode his bike from ohio(i think) to hollywood to make swords and break into show business. he lived in the bushes behind pink floyd for a few months.

one day i was bouldering alone in front when out of the corner of my eye i noticed a young fellow, butt naked, peering at me from the bushes(those darn bushes again). i bailed.

seriously thats where it all began for me so that place will always be special. man did my fingers hurt so good as i drove home on the 118 each day.

so many good times and people!

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
dan.... wow don't remember him.... Yabo usta hang in them bushes some.

Chatsworth is the right place to come to and use your "sword" so you can break into showbizz.....

We see alot of that going on.... keeps the place fun.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 21, 2009 - 03:27am PT
I've never really been a Stoney regular but still ended up out there like 1,000 times. Here's the only shot I have of the joint, from about 30 years ago on the Yabbo Arete, V2 or something.

JL

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 21, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
Thanks for the shot. Here is one from brooks site. V2? hummm... In your photo you can see largonaut chalked up too. What year did you put that up? Any other FA's of note?

Matt

http://ayola.com/stoney/index.html
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 21, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
Largonaut, Powerglide and Ummagumma all went up around 1975, and all seemed roughly about the same difficulty. Also the Yabo mantle on Rock 1 and the stuff on Pink Floyd or whatever you call it. All good stuff and stiff 35 years ago sans pads. Don't fall.

JL
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Nov 22, 2009 - 02:19am PT
Wow...It seems like eons since I was there! My last time was with the "Guargoyle" who took me to Yabo arete. I thought it was a cool prob! (At least V2+...)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 02:30am PT
i was told that if you climbed the three boulder problems: "Yabo arete 2 router bit!.... then largonaut" earned ya a "Triple Crown"!.

pyro.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 24, 2009 - 02:48pm PT


This is in the section of stoney that borders the 118, between canoga and topanga. The land used to be private, but was annexed onto the park sometime in the last 10 years (at least that's the story I got). My buddy Sparky and I have found 50+ lines on the boulders back there. you can see the freeway cracks in the background. Lemme know if anyone wants to go, I'd be happy to show ya around. The climbs are more spread out than stoney proper, and probably need some cleaning.
apogee

climber
Nov 24, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
Wow, the timing of your post above is uncanny...

I drove through Santa Susanna pass yesterday, and wondered (again) who owns the land on the north side of 118, on both sides of the pass? I've never gotten out of the car and walked it, but there is a lot more 'stone' (using the word loosely) there than at SP. Is is private land? State? City?

Got more pics of the surrounding area? Post up!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 24, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
Don't know about the other land, but the spot I mentioned is now part of stoney point park. Will post more shots sometime.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Nov 24, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
I used to climb at an area between the freeway and the RXR tracks. You could drive a road just before the 118 East bound on ramp on Topanga, take the road a hundered yards or so and there was a fun crack and OW dihedral thay we used to lead. Anyone still climb over there?
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Nov 26, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
The land north at Rocky Peak Rd, is park land. But, not LA Park land. Some part of Santa Susana Park ?. Here's some information on the history. At one time a group that included Bob Hope owned the land and then lease it to Getty Oil. At that time we could drive up the road, now trail. I believe they did a land swap for it to become a park. For the right info on this check out Santa Susana Park Association.

On the other side of the 118 fwy. It is a mix of private owners, including The Church at Rocky Peak. I went climbing around the area across from the church and was asked to leave. I do believe that land is marked for homes. Even though the owner who was the one who kicked us off said "No Homes"


mmm
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 27, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
Here is some old school funk for y'all. No hands boulder problems circa 1961. Roger Brown (who filmed Sentinel- The West Face) did a little film with a star studded cast! I have never seen the film. Has anyone else seen it? From Summit June 1961.




paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Nov 27, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
Seen the article before but didn't remember there was a movie... would love to see it.

I remember folks going up and down that route with no hands but never thought of it as particularly good training, though I also remember Kamps seemed compulsive about doing it as a kind of warm up. Wish people would post up more old photos of the place... very nostalgic... thanks.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 11:40am PT
Steve grossman thank-you!
your post about "Bouldering" just enhanced this thread by 100%.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:15am PT
Not a lot of articles about Stoney Point so I am always stoked to find anything interesting.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 02:12am PT
just for Batrock!

a friendly hello!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
just a "good friction" kinda day!
enjoy the show!


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
I'll keep it going for the next few months. shorter days make it harder to get out into the back area. but we got time!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Dec 3, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
If you got time why was stoney someplaceuwerenot? Only andrew me mark, guy and a few non regulars.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 4, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
Matty ... pyro has a job, and his boss is working him to death and he has all that ICE to polish at the rink.

gk
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2009 - 01:56am PT
matty, I really like that guy somethingrunout! he likes the bumps4Stoney!
cheers.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2009 - 02:08am PT
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Dec 6, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
Chillin in the old country...




Anyone wanna get out this afternoon if it hasn't rained?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 6, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
Guido just wrote me and is quite sure that the Chouinard catalog shot in post #84 is Dennis Henneck not Don Lauria. Hopefully, some more historical photos will surface. Is the flake in the photo still around?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2009 - 01:43am PT
please no climbing on the sandstone.
the rains have soaked the rock like a sponge!
that means locals hate it when flakes get pulled off and world class boulder problems get ruined!!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Dec 15, 2009 - 10:55am PT
More pics of our favorite choss pile...
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 15, 2009 - 11:14am PT
It's Tuesday.....

The sun has been shining, let's go...

rincon.... Rincon this weekend? It,s that time of year.

gk
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 15, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
Pyro,

Thats the area. Used to climb there a bunch back in the early 80's when it got crowded at the point. Thanks.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 01:09am PT
Stoney point "charrrred"! in 08'
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Dec 16, 2009 - 07:52am PT
I put up some sick new lines last month -

"Pink Graffiti-Cover Traverse" is destined to be a classic, and I just finished the mega-proj "Horsesh!t Wind". Also, the "Bum-Piss Cave" has it's own reward for climbing to the daylight.

Good times.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:31am PT
Mr. E .... you will need to show up, and show all of US just how/where those "NEW" problems are........ the judges are tough at that place.

It's really common to have young studs show up, fire "something new"....

Then we try to produce photograph evidence of prior accents......

Over by "PowerGlide", these kids cleared out some brush and "discovered" new stuff.... a quick review of the historical photos ( several thousand ) clearly showed a very young John Bachar, red headband and all on the said new problem. Further discussions with Jim Wilson reviled the fact that maybe, Dan McHale of Fred Beckey did it in 66. McHale confirmed that "It wasen't new" when he did it, he thought it was Royal, Royal confirmed that "Glen and his brother did it in 38..... so there you go. We value accuracy
at the old point and like to keep everything truthful.

So come on down and break some wind with the boys,you can do your new ones,
we can try em. OK.

cheers
Guy Keesee
SPCA member #1973-12

Guy Keesee
F10

Trad climber
e350
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:57am PT
"So come on down and break some wind with the boys"

Sounds like Blazing Saddles,
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 16, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
It's a serious invite.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
Rob thank's for the great shot'z! I really like the pic of the 118freeway.
misterE your always welcomed.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Dec 16, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
So far as "new" stuff, this same scenario gets played out at Roubidoux every decade or so. Photos are lacking, but there are a few of us who still remember Phil Haney, Paul Gleason, Ben Borson and others sending some pretty grim shite (up to around V8) a way back there, when we were still early on in high school. Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.

JL
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 18, 2009 - 12:45am PT
Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.

So true.

More bolts are big difference. Some things done way BITD are amazing, esp when you factor in climbing in hiking boots.

gk
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 18, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
Yesterday was really nice out at the point.

Sunny skies,with cool temps were the order of the day.

A climber from Budapest, Martin is his name, was blasting through town and he "Just had to come and see this place" We showed him some of the more classic stuff and then moved on to "hard problems." He spoke enthusiastically about the local bouldering back in Budapest. "Boulders in the forest" he said.Sounds nice.

I always like the international flavor you can sometimes find there.

Personally, I was able to hit some harder problems that I have not been able to do in about 6 years due to injuries. So I was very happy.

As long as there is no more rain and the temps stay cool the friction should be picking up some in the next few weeks.

GK
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 19, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
Guido, of course, is correct. That is a photo of Dennis Hennek, not me. I was never that young.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Dec 19, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
Part of the flake in the photo was gone by the early 70s. We used to call that particular series of moves "crowed pleaser traverse." It ended up on the nob below the infamous "rock #2 overhang." The traverse looked great but really wasn't very difficult 5.8 perhaps before the flake began to go and the ground below eroded a bit. I'm sure it's much more difficult now. I remember as holds were pulled off by 76 or so it seemed much more difficult.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 23, 2009 - 11:24am PT
Pual Rohel..... I believe you are correct,The flake made the traverse 5.8....that was the last time I was able to do it.

Yesterday, 12/22/09 was cold and clear. The point, as usual, had some out of state visitors. If anybody Knows "Kieth" from Boulder,driving a outback, loaded with gear.....he says hi to all back in snowy Colorado, his next stop is "The Tree".

Anyway, a two year quest by the Topos own "matty" ended yesterday. Matt was able to finely send "Yabos Mantle" on rock one.

So we had something to celebrate.... and we broke out the frozen beers at sunset. (like we needed a reason)

late.

gk


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 11:49am PT
nice job matty!
Yabo mantle is a good one to have under your belt.
have a good holiday and a happy new year.
with love from the point.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 3, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
Here is demeets matching on the mantle, where the real business starts. Jeff Johnson says he knows of at least 17 variations to this problem. He is the only person I know that has down climbed it, though I've seen Aaron come close. The way I did it is knott the usual way, but then again I am knott a usual person. Next I will have to try Yabo arete, and I think there may be a yabo dyno up top to complete the trifecta. I'm coming home tomorrow boys. See ya tuesday

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
love this thread! here are some of my member numbers for the record.
SPCA #1995-06
ASCA#2007-07
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2010 - 01:09am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
just a nice kinda day!
enjoy the pic's for tuesday the 12th.
the clouds looked so stellar!
have a good day!

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:52am PT
Good times!
Good times!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 13, 2010 - 01:06am PT
Extra trippy sunset tonight.

Can't beat 70 degree weather, good friends and good climbing.

The "Kat" is better after climbing.....IMHO.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:21am PT
puff looking clouds!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 13, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
Thanks for shooting my better side Ryan


):RAIN:(
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
due to the rain Stoney is closed to climbers for a few days!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 15, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
I just found this:


http://halfcircleg.blogspot.com/2010/01/last-of-mohicans-and-big-hunk-of-cheese.html




It's a weird angle

enjoy.
sowr

Trad climber
CA
Jan 16, 2010 - 11:35am PT
Art of Climbing had a great selection of reading material - I seem to remember getting my first pair of Fire Cats from there too.

Sad that (besides Nomad Ventures) all of the specialty shops have gone away, they were great places to just hang out.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2010 - 11:41am PT
Guyman rad! looks like when top-rope season is in we'll have to give it a try!
" the group of course".
RM
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
James Doty

Trad climber
Idyllwild, Ca.
Jan 18, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
Looks kind of cool but what a zoo.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 19, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
James. Trust me, the pics don't show half of the story.

you got to try it for yourself.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
the only zoo there is the "wazoo"...
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
suuper soaked!!!.......i'm getting stir crazy........rain go away.....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2010 - 02:33am PT

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 25, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
Still wet with more rain on it's way. Here are some photos I mined to pass the days:


Robbins on Turlock (from John Gill's site)

Bob Kamps on Turlock (from Gill's site, photos by Bonnie Kamps)

Dolt on boulder 1

Robbins laybacking


Take care everyone-

Matt
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 26, 2010 - 01:02am PT
Some guys don't let anything get in their way.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2010 - 01:56am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2010 - 12:55am PT
the guy with the red shirt is named Guy Keesee.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 27, 2010 - 10:55am PT
It was indeed a happybirthday...... thanks Ryan and Em.

Just waiting for it to dry up some.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Jan 27, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
I added the buckets in 1980 so my coed could do the downclimb.

Juan
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
T100
Jan 27, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
Safe to climb this weekend? What do the locals think?

-Zak
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 27, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
choss...burning...my eyes...must...claw..out...
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
Zak~
last nite the national weather report claimed no rain for the weekend:) If it stays dry till saturday then climbing on the sunnyside stuff could hold up!
keep in mind this is the wet season for stoney so practice caution when crank'n on those !!!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 27, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
Mr evil. THX for the BD props.

I know the buckets were there in 1973.

so Juan is just bragging.

zak.... the weekend might be just fine, as Pyro says, keep to the stuff on the sunny side.

and BVB.... jealous?, don't try to hide the fact. :>).....I know your sitting in the snow. :>)....
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
T100
Jan 27, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
Thanks. In town this w.e. so see you there!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 11:38am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
just another activity that we like to do at Stoners point!
phot taken sept15/09

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
Just some good temps for this week.
enjoy!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2010 - 11:49am PT
just read this thread and watched the clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI

thank-you tarbuster for posting!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1073956/Largo_Lynn_Dave_Katz_TV_short_Early_80s

cheers!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2010 - 11:40am PT
just a friendly reminder!
this weekend is soaked.
drink beers instead.
cheers!
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 6, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
I first visited Stoney with unknown friends as a young pre-teen in the late 50's. Growing up in Canoga Park, it was a place to cruise & scramble around just for the fun of it. I remember once seeing some climbers, probably the Sierra Club RCS (Rock Climbing Section), with ropes and commenting to a friend that they would certainly be killed doing that kind of climbing. Little did I know what was to come.

I used to go bowling with my brother, Philip, and mom, Marjorie, fairly regularly on Sundays at the local bowling alley. One day during the winter of 1960-1961, my dad, Robert, showed up unnannounced and announced that the RCS was having a practice climb at Stoney and that my brother and I were going with him. We had been spending the previous two family summer vacations camping in Yosemite. In 1959, my dad, brother and I hiked up the cable route on Half Dome. The following summer, we three hike up Mt. Dana. It was Dad's ambition to climb Mts. Lyell and Ritter the next summer (which we did) and he felt that we needed roped climbing skills and equipment to do it safely. So we went with him to Stoney Point, and a whole new world opened up to me. The rest is history, so to speak. I never asked Mom how she felt about that day because we never went bowling with her again.

I've known Dennis Hennek since 8th grade (1958), by 1961 we were in high school (Canoga Park HS) together, and about then we began going to Stoney Point every Saturday and Sunday and sometimes even after school. One day in the hall at my locker, Dennis and I were talking about climbing whild I was holding "A Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" in my hand. An unknown student, Russ McLean overheard our conversation and stopped to introduce himself. I guess we were a little stand-offish, and Russ felt rejected, but soon we met him again at Stoney, and others in our high school class joined us three on our weekend forays to Stoney.

We three graduated from high school in 1963, and that summer, in addition to a climbing trip to the Tetons with my father and brother, I did a hike into Bullfrog Lake over Kearsarge Pass from Independence, CA. From that lake, there's a lovely view of Mt. Brewer in the distance, and I greatly admired its nearly 1000' unclimbed face, and I set my sights on it. I'd never climbed anywhere but Stoney Point until then, so Russ and I took a quick trip to Tahquitz where we did two moderate climbs but were able to practice swinging leads on a real multi-pitch climbs. Late in the summer, carrying ropes and hardward we hiked (in our "kettershoes")to Bullfrog Lake where we found, by sheer coincidence, Dennis and his brothers fishing by the lake. After a short visit with them, Russ and I continued on and eventually set up a camp near the base of the Mt. Brewer's NE face. That's a story for another time. But after our successful ascent, the summit photos (not scanned yet!) show both Russ and I wearing our high school senior sweaters. Go Thorians [CPHS Class of S'63]! LOL!

I'm still organizing what I can see will be a massive scanning project; so far the only two pix from Stoney Point that I've done are of Don Lauria. One, dated 1965, shows him doing what I think was the second ascent of the "Boche Death Route." Is that route even done any more? The other, dated 1968, shows Don practicing aid on what we called in those days, "The Ski Tracks," two parallel cracks on the walls of one of the gullies on Stoney's backside.

Somewhere I have slides of a "Traffic Diversion" that the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers did to the traffic one Friday afternoon during the construction of the new Freeway that now goes by Stoney. That, also, will be for another time.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 6, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 6, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
Nice pics and story BooDawg!!

In the first pic of D.L., he's on Sandblast, 5.11c. it's right next to Sculpters Crack. Still trying to figure out where the Boche Death Route is though.

Looking forward to see more of your pics!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:14am PT
The Boche Death Route went from right to left up and across the blank west face (the "Front Wall" as tagged in the Stoney Point Guide 1982) of Stoney Point. The photo of Pyro's at the top of this page shows the Front Wall quite clearly - it's directly above the left edge of the oak tree behind Slant Rock.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2010 - 03:31am PT
rincon,
it's gotta be that stuff on the jesus wall...? right of the non-exist bolt ladder:you start on the 5.7 crack then clip a (chopped or missing) bolt and traverse left in the pinscars then straight up?
BooDawg thanks!

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 7, 2010 - 11:34am PT
BooDawg...... very nice. Please keep adding shots and names. We are trying to get the whole history of the Point written down. So many climbers have stories similar to yours. One day they went to Stoney and their life changed forever..... mine did for sure.

Ever get out there now?????

Edit..... is he leading the Boche Death root????
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 7, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
Yes, Lauria is leading the route; one can see the rope and crabs leading up from the center-bottom of the pic.

Living on Hawaii Island, I don't get to SoCal much, tho last time I was there, McLean and I went out and enjoyed part of a day on the rocks.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 7, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
Stoney bump!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 8, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
Very cool thread!
Refreshes the old memories nicely.

The Fish in the late 70s, Turlock:

photo, Doug Munoz
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 8, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
"Pave paradise and put up a parking lot" !!

This 1965 pic was taken near Stoney, and the location has now been erased by the "new" freeway and the realignment of Topanga Canyon Bl.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:24am PT
Almost visible in the first photo is that Old Topanga Canyon Blvd used to make a large S-Turn as it passed by Stoney Point and over a railroad tunnel before heading west over the pass to Simi Valley. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the cars on the inside of the bend are all bunched up, creating a break in the traffic. This event took place around April Fool’s Day, 1969 when Team #1 the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers (who frequented Stoney for climbing practice) brought 5 of their cars and some “borrowed” orange highway cones plus a detour sign to the area.


Above the S-Turn, where a small road led off into a maze of roads where there were widely scattered houses, Team #2 was waiting with the cones and detour sign for the break in the traffic to arrive.


When the break arrived, they quickly set up the sign and the cones to block the highway and divert the afternoon commuter traffic into the maze of roads which had only one obscure outlet.


When the sign & cones were in place, the Team #1 drivers of the 5 cars led the commuter traffic up into the maze. Knowing the obscure route out, the drivers drove out around the back side of Stoney Point and walked up the back side to join Team #2 who had walked up there after setting up the sign and cones. For more than an hour, the maze of roads was a horrific traffic jam. The highway department came and opened up the road, scratching their head all the while.


We knew that these were futile efforts at resisting "progress," but it was sure fun to organize resistance anyway...
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Feb 9, 2010 - 09:40am PT
That is just such a cool piece of history! Excellent monkey-wrenching!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 9, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
BooDawg - Great posts, thanks sooo much. That traffic jam cracks me up. Got any good Kamps stories?

Matt
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 9, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
Here are two pix of the FA of the "Boche Death Route." I'm not sure who actually took the pix; they are duplicate slides. Probably Hennek, Lauria, or McLean.

ColeGibson

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:01pm PT
Hello,

My name, as if it wasn't obvious from my screen name, is Cole Gibson and I've been working on a documentary about the history of climbing at Stoney Point for the last year and half, tentatively titled "Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag." So far we've interviewed almost 20 people ranging from Glen Dawson, who first climbed at the Point in 1927, to young kids pushing the limits in the present time.

About a year before graduating from film school at USC, I found what would become my life's passion out at Stoney Point. Like so many others before me, I fell in love with climbing at Stoney and haven't looked back since. Early on I met long time climbers like Guy Keesee, Mike Flood and Jan McCollum who became mentors and are to this day very good friends. Over the years I've met some of my best friends out at the Point and the place has truly become something special to me.

The history of climbing at Stoney Point over the last hundred years is richer than cheesecake and, as a filmmaker, it was a no brainer that this needed to be my first real project outside of school. Today, the film is about 75% complete, from a shooting standpoint, and I've amassed an amazing collection of historical photos and video assets. The Sierra Club, Glen Dawson, Brooks Ayola and many others have been HUGELY instrumental in the gathering of this collection and the project wouldn't be where it is without their help. Thanks guys!!! Climbing magazine will be publishing an article I wrote on the subject this coming Fall and the movie will be finished concurrently.

As a long time lurker here on the Taco I've held off on writing a post like this but, for better or worse, the time has come. While I already have enough assets to make a very complete documentary I can always use more. So if anyone has photos or stories or anything that they'd like to donate to or share with the documentary please let me know, either here on Supertopo, or by shooting me an email at - cgibson22@gmail.com

While I don't have many more interviews to do, I do have a couple people I'd like to get a hold of. Chief of whom are Mark Powell and TM Herbert. If anyone has contact info for these guys could you please send it to me so that I can reach out to them about the project? The 60's era is a little thin right now and I think these two legends would flesh it out nicely, to say the least!

Anyway, if it calls for it, I'll be posting on here regularly but for now please enjoy the following pictures. I'd love to post more but in terms of the article and the movie I don't think it's a good idea.
Thanks,

Cole

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
Thx Cole! Great photos, looking forward to the whole shabang.

QH
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:33pm PT
Cool photos Cole and everyone! This thread gets better and better!

Too bad it's raining and the rock is soaked, or we'd be there right now having fun.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
B-dawg you are rad!
the traffic pic's made me think "what the hell are those students doing"? anyway, i like the pic of the S- turn with the train cruising on by!
ken Boche nice to meet ya!
when top-rope season is active we'll post some pic's of the gang climbing the "boche death route"..

tarbuster~thanks for check'n the Stoney thread. the fish is my favorite..

cole~your constant questioning stoney's history has inspired this thread...so get what you can out of it, because the world should always come climb at Stoney.
Stephanie you should get out more because i know your super strong!

Rincon i had to go to the gym today because of the rain..




BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 11, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
I'm pasting in these references to Stoney from what I wrote last nite elsewhere... http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1079288&tn=20

More important, as you recall, were are frequent and intense trips to Stoney and then moving beyond… Have you checked out the Stoney Point thread in the last day or so? A film maker, Cole Gibson is making a documentary on Stoney. He says the 60’s is a bit thin. Did he interview you? If not, I’m thinking he may be missing an important piece of Stoney’s influence, considering the intensity with which we climbed there and the places that we went later.

Someone else on the Stoney thread, I think, was asking me for Kamps stories. You, LongAgo, of course, are probably the best one for those…
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Feb 11, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
climbing bump
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 11, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
I helped to kick this TV short out as an independent thread not long ago.
The link belongs here as well as it's all footage shot out at Stony Point:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI


Previously posted here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1073956/Largo_Lynn_Dave_Katz_TV_short_Early_80s
LongAgo

Trad climber
Feb 11, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
Tidbits

The smell of Stoney after a rain, climbing the big face on some pothole route in the rain with Bud (Ivan) Couch both wearing plastic bags with head holes because, well, we were trying to become mountaineers or Herman Buhl or something, meeting Bob Kamps who took me under his wing and tuned my lust for the game into safe and sane climbing practice, and bantered with me and challenged me and me him on flake after flake, boulder after boulder, then back to his house for a sumptuous meal from Bonnie, and on and on to Tahquitz, Yosemite, Tuolumne with Bob, now a brain full of walls, pinnacles, domes, routes and campfires and starry nights, Bob and our times still deep within me and why, in most measure, all of climbing now rests with me like a great lasting love.

Here's a small memory of Bob at Stoney, written a couple of years ago for a Stoney guidebook which may or may not ever come out. What better place for it than this thread, this bit of cyberspace where we connect full of exuberance and heart for the big lumps of sandstone called Stoney Point:

Tribute

I vaguely remember a charred, skeletal car body at Stoney Point the first time I visited there. The place looked crummy and felt dusty and hot. The air was brown with smog. There were no climbers visible as I looked around Rock 1 (now called “Boulder 1”), just a few walkers, pooping dogs on the loose and some kids yelling, running and jumping around small boulders. Some of the boulders and higher cliffs were painted with names and hearts and four letter words. I think it was summer 1962.

I had come there to meet Bob Kamps. I had phoned him on a ruse, asking about the best rope to buy. I didn’t care about ropes. I had heard he was good. I wanted to learn about climbing and maybe get to climb real walls with him. All I had climbed at that point was the outside of my house with friend and neighbor Bud (Ivan) Couch. We had salivated over the book Freedom of the Hills, bought a few steel carabiners, a hemp rope and soft iron pitons, but never been on rock. So I steered my phone talk with Bob toward meeting at Stoney. He agreed.

After walking around some, I found Bob topping out on Rock 2 (now “Turlock” or Boulder 2). He wore a T-shirt, shorts and a light hiking boots, probably Cortinas. His hair was short, army-like. He was a little sunburned, wiry, knobby, veined and strong, matter of fact, but flashing a wry smile as we talked about how I liebacked wood siding on my house. It was the smile that told me I had a chance with him. The first thing he showed me was to use my feet, to look for edges and undulations in the rock for friction. We did some no-handed routes on a smaller rock near Rock 1. Bob moved as if walking up a stairway. I got the picture about feet. Later, we did a top-roped climb on a pothole wall at the back (east side) of the area. As I struggled up nearing a crux, he called out, “man or mouse?” My blood zoomed, and up I went.

I remember now the little circuit of Stoney routes we often did as Bob and I became lifelong climbing partners. I remember the smell of the gritty sandstone after a rain. I can feel the soft, grassy paths of the Spring, remember our bantering and competition bouldering. Bob could mantle anything. I was good at small hold endurance traverses. Over those years, Stoney and Bob built in me: wiring in a trust of tiny flakes, how to edge, hop step, step through, reach, match, smear, mantle, yell, laugh, curse and think anything was possible – all the essentials for the walls I came to do.

I remember sitting in the dirt with Bob near Rock 1 decades after our first encounter. We were spent, our arms pumped and gone, sipping a beer. I then lived in the Bay Area and was visiting for Thanksgiving (we alternated Thanksgivings visits for 30 years). Bob was eyeing a young climber, probably thinking, “no, put your foot there, not there.” By then, Bob had bouldered at Stoney about twice a week for nearly 40 years. Every flake, ledge, crack, hole and ledge was in his brain. I asked him if he remembered the first time I contacted him and he said, still looking at the climber but smiling, “Yeah, about the rope.” We laughed.

In 2005, about 200 people came to Stoney to honor Bob after his death. How fitting to hold a memorial for him there, but Bob is not gone from Stoney. He is there anytime I visit, stand still and close my eyes. Next time I go, he’ll be topping out on Rock 2 again, in his cut-off shorts, grinning.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo



guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
Tom-What a wonderful tribute to a beautiful man.

The two of you together were unbeatable.

I spent a lot of time at Stony when I was at UCLA between 1966-71, but always had to get a "visitors pass" since I was a Northern Cal boy from the Indian Rock Gang. Boche and the gang will never let you forget you are in S.Cal turf. Kamps was always fun and generous with his time and his beer.

Here is an interesting letter from Bitchen Bill Amborn, aka BBA, that portrays a day at Stony in 1962 and various other activities going on back then with some of the key players. It wasn't all climbing.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2010 - 12:03am PT
he had hands like a gecko!


Tom wrote: "The first thing he showed me was to use my feet, to look for edges and undulations in the rock for friction. We did some no-handed routes on a smaller rock near Rock 1."

~those no hand rests got challenged by a couple of gym rats the other day and non of em' could crank them out because the lack of foot technique! we showed them how bob showed us and then they got it.
thanks for the story Tom.

Guido how interesting!
thank-you


BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 12, 2010 - 04:54am PT
WOW!! Tom, thanks SO MUCH for your moving and eloquent posting about your meeting Kamps and the relationship that you and he had over SO many years. Although my dad first took me to Stoney and to the Sierra, Cascades, Tetons, and Canadian Rockies, he really couldn't mentor me the way Kamps mentored you. We were all awed by, probably somewhat envious of, the two of you over the years. Sometimes I feel like nearly all climbers develop extraordinary bonds with those whom they have really connected. But I know that you and he had a special bond and love that not every climber is blessed with such bonding. Fred Becky, for all his genius and drive, may have missed some REALLY important life lesson that I KNOW you and Bob shared. So do Guido, Hennek, and Lauria. I feel honored to have known and climbed with all of you.

Sheesh, Guido, you really do amaze me, more than ever, with your knowledge and experience around this craft we call climbing. Thanks for your insightful comments which seem to be sprouting up everywhere like wildflowers in the spring.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 13, 2010 - 07:50pm PT
He slept at stoney! Great stuff. RIP BoB
LongAgo

Trad climber
Feb 15, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
A Tad Philosophical

Ken, yes, I now realize my relation with Bob was especially formative and deep, launching me not just in climbing but shaping how I approached a host of life's pursuits. As Guido says, "It wasn't all climbing." Indeed.

As I look back these past few years, everything and nothing spins around climbing. I know I am largely who I am because of climbing. We all are who we are in large part because of climbing, so how could it not be vital? And yet, suppose my "game" had been tennis or surfing or cycling or skiing and I had met the equivalent Bob Kamps there and formed a resulting lifelong friendship and felt fulfilled, then what do we say?

Maybe we come to this: the most vital thing from the standpoint of feeling satisfied and whole in life (not to imply I always have that feeling, but by and large I do) is not so much the rock and our game on it, nor our particular climbing accomplishments which mostly will be hazy or forgotten with time, but how we go about whatever we go about. With what passion we invest ourselves in any life game, how we honor and respect those we meet, how we internalize what we come to value in others we love and admire and, then, how true we are to all we have learned and hold dear. Again, not to say that’s the path I’ve seen all along or, once seen, to which I’ve held. Far from it. It’s only in the past few years I’ve even had such thoughts. And how strange a thought, I realize, that climbing may not be the point, especially to put forth on a climbing site. But there it is: rock as mere "geography," -- stunning, superb geography, but only that compared to our inner geography, the growing and carving of our lives, which gives all things the only meaning they have.

We salute Stoney as we have on this thread. We salute times there and friends there and on all the walls. But, finally, we also must hope to salute ... ourselves.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Feb 15, 2010 - 07:32pm PT

"A strong camaraderie existed among the more habitual climbers, the regulars, and he found strength in this relationship. There was, again, a sense of separation and special-ness among them. They were separated from society by their unusual passion and their willingness to pay an extreme price. Most were woefully poor but had the hubris to take pride in their indigence -- one young man actually bragging about his ability to live on six hundred dollars a year. Many saw poverty as a rejection, an act of holy indifference. But others were simply students. They’d discovered a rather engaging, even consuming hobby and the powerful redolence of rebellion and danger. Their goal was a strange mixture of physical hardness, psychological control and emotional sensitivity in the celebration of natural beauty.

And Stony Point was their place of embarkation; it was safe and comfortable, yet it offered a sense of waiting adventure. Like so much in L.A. offering possibilities, it teased, cajoled and sometimes repelled one into pursuing further excitement."

MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Feb 15, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
Bump for the new-found happiness that comes from living 8 minutes from such a historic place in technical climbing.

It's like the start, 21 years ago at the UW rock, all over.

The learning texture feels the same.

Thanks to all the historical perspectives - I have a new-found appreciation for what initially seemed like a loud, ugly and friable crag.

Beginnings come from the least expected places, teaching and the simple and not-so-simple lessons of Stoney have renewed that fire.

Erik Wolfe
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 12:25am PT
BooDAWG!
Ken Boche I sent you an email!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 12:50am PT
just some great temps for this week!
enjoy the pic's!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 01:50am PT
okay ken Boche!
lets clean up your route!
thank's maybe you can identify these bolts as yours...if not then we will erase them..to give credit and restore the f.A!
R.M.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 19, 2010 - 05:46am PT
Pyro:

I got an email from Don Lauria who said that he didn’t remember any bolts from the F.A.

On thinking about the F.A., I don’t remember placing bolts anywhere at Stoney. Furthermore, I didn’t name the route, “Boche Death Route.” As I recall, the name was created by my friends to describe the consequence of taking a fall from high up on the route, so I think the original route never had any bolts in it.

If I had placed any bolts, they’d have been ¼” X 1” Rawl Drives with Leeper hangers such as shown in the pic below.


Even if the bolts are removed, if they are used for aid, the climb could still be done if the holes are usable with “hooks” such as the custom ones pictured below that were made by Dennis Hennek.

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 19, 2010 - 11:15am PT
Bo.... so let me get this straight. TBDR was done originally on tied off pins?

friggen wild. Two of my friends, Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973 in preparation for the second accent of "Moses" in Utah. Scared the heck out of them... that ratty rock at Stoney.

One time we were hanging out at the "Oliver Moon Hotel", around midnight, somebody suggested we go and do the bolt ladder at SP by moonlight. We gathered the gear and in no time we were at the start of the climb. After a hanging party at the belay bolts, I was given the task of leading the last part.... when I hit the summit and went to go clip the anchors I interrupted a loving couple who were sharing a private moment at the time. "Sorry, excuse me, I need to clip those bolts so my friends can get up here" ..... she had nice ones too. :>)

So much has gone down at Stoney, it's quite a place to climb at.

Any more stories are welcome.

Guy Keesee
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 19, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
Yes, Guy; that's the best Don Lauria (who did the second ascent) & I can remember, and it makes sense, given the name that grew up around the route.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 19, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
I've been wondering about a couple of wino characters that frequented SP during the early sixties: One's name was Phil Mesch (sp?); I can't remember the other's. They were actually pretty good climbers on their favorite routes, and they always drank cheap Ripple wine and bragged about how much better their climbing got as an afternoon and their drunkeness progressed. Have there been any postings about them? They always added a lot of color and laughter to our "more serious" approach to climbing. VERY entertaining! Anyone have any pix of them?
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Feb 19, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
I have bouldered more at Stoney Point than any living person.

Sad but true.

Juan
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 19, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
Juan,

Only if you're older than me.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
Boche
i've already started to annotate my guide books as the "boche death route". i've pondered about nailing that thing for some time, but it goes free! my next question is do we keep a bolt to protect the next victim....i'll start by top roping it first.
guyman
you said "Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973".
how bad azz!
later,
R.M.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 20, 2010 - 12:19am PT
If the FFA was led with the protection of a bolt, perhaps its OK to leave a bolt in to retain the character of the FFA.

Aid pins have the "It should slow me down" aspect...

I may not be the best one to decide this. Thanks for asking...

But I do like the idea of retaining the character of the commitment & confidence it takes to make the lead where there are serious consequences if the leader falls.



pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2010 - 03:14am PT
boulderkitty

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Feb 21, 2010 - 12:34am PT
even though the rock was too wet to climb it was still a gorgeous day out at Stoney today!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 12:38am PT
just some Kool temps for today!
have fun!
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53am PT
Stellar picture, BoulderKitty!

Thanks for your photos and the update and your editing of the BDR, Pyro. Made wish I could have disapparated there for this afternoon's workout.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 24, 2010 - 10:04am PT
Pyro, that don't look like no boot flake to me.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
Feb 24, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
Occasionally bored and dumb can lead to a good time. Or, if nothing else, a few good yuks.
I lived in the canyon for years, so it was a good 30+ minute drive to get to Stoney. So one lazy Saturday, probably late 1977, during a torrential rainstorm we decided to put down ours beers and hit the rock. We were not too motivated, so we decided to bring more beer than gear. So my fellow droog and I loaded up the beer, the gear, and other whatnots and at the last minute decided to throw in the etriers.
By the time we got to Stoney, our excitement had diminished to the point of complete dereliction. The rain had increased quite a bit, so that didn't help. Not wanting to waste the aforementioned beer we figured we best work up a plan. Like I said, we were a lazy lot, so we hit the Jesus Wall and pulled out the trees. We aided our way half way up, parked it on one of the bolts and pulled out the beer. Thinking back, I hope we would have clipped a few of those old rusty dogs.
We hung there drinking beer for a least an hour, I have no idea what the commuters must have thought. What I don't remember is how we left. Did we go up, did we go down? I have no idea. Surprisingly, no one bothered us or even stopped at the park. I imagine today the cops would be all over that.
Ah to be young, dumb and bored.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 11:51am PT
Old Topanga lizard thanks!
that old aid line was sure fun. I've practiced rope solo-techniques quite a bit on that thing.


Boche~the photo's will continue! maybe someday we all could get together for the perfect photo on the summit boulder and boulder one. Cole would love that pic for his documentry!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 25, 2010 - 12:33pm PT

This is still my favorite Stoney pic.

Sometime if I get time I'll have to describe my early adventures out at Stoney with two fierce, late, great rock warriors - Billy Westbay, and John Bachar, circa 1975, when both guys were at their peak. Some incredible stuff, and scary.

Stoney has more history than just about any place I can imagine. If those boulders could talk!

JL

PS: Per folks back channeling me about the pic below, I believe it's from around 1978, when Yabo and I first worked out the moves on Yabo Arete and a bunch of other stuff during that time - there was intense bouldering activity there for a few years, a sort of jump up in intensity that Stoney goes through here and there.

I think this Yabo Aret pic was around the time I got my first pair of Fires, by driving up to Ventura and paying cash to Bachar. Bachar and Graham imported the boots for a while in the late 70s, early 80s.

JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Feb 25, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
So I hope the bad bolts are still on the main wall bolt ladder.
Thats what made it fun. Really.

Juan
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 25, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
Juan...

This is weird, but true. Some joker pulled all the old bolts, on Rap, and redrilled "new" holes in completely different spots! Then he disappeared for a while. New hardware appeared in the "new drilled holes" but it's NOT CLIMBING GEAR.... it looks like really crappy Hardware from Home Depot glued in. The new "Shuts" at the 1/2 way point look like the stuff you screw into the 2x4's in the garage to hang bikes from. Very mankey.

Pyro went out and pulled all that sh#t down, thank god, and is replacing new bolts in the original 1/4 inch locations.

We are sort of concerned with the slack liners setting up on regular 3/8 bolts placed for the few Top Ropes that have bolted anchors. We are finding loose bolts with fractures in the stone.

Anybody know the math on the amount of force required to pull a line really tight? I bet it exceeds the recommended load rating for 3/8 climbing bolts, hangers. By a TON.

Weld-it where are you?????

Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 25, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
Thread brings back many good memories of climbing Tues/Thurs evenings back in the mid 80s-mid 90s with Bob Kamps, Herb Laeger, Guy Keesee, Kris Solem, Jan and Owen Fordham, Chris Hsu, Judy and Mark Powell, Mark Frumkin, Jan McCollum and my partner at the time, Karen Brotter. I dug up a few old photos to add to the mix.









oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
Feb 25, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
The slackliners question reminds me of some other good times at Stoney. We always thought we would end up on the Lost Arrow, we never did, so we set up a tyrolean traverse at Stoney to practice our style. By the way, I'm sure our style was terrible. We set it up above and beyond the top of the Jesus Wall, I don't think it was longer than 80'. Someday I'll pull out those old slides and figure out how to post on this site. I've got a lot of old slides from Stoney, Suicide and Socal that somebody may enjoy. Maybe some of you old dogs could be lurking in the background.
I did put some of that to use on the Sun Ribbon, so it wasn't all for not.

Of course what I remember most about Stoney from the 70's was the broken glass everywhere. You couldn't walk barefoot anywhere. It's been decades, is it still that bad?
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 25, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
Glass still everywhere? Pretty much once you get away from Boulder one, Turlock, etc. (Edit: agree with GGnome, the main boulder areas are better than ever.)

Been taking my daughter out and establishing a small circuit that she can do. Her favorite boulder is the Pyramid over by Lions Head Mantles. I can't do half of what I used to, but I'm working on it!

"Off the couch" was a whole lot easier before I became a potato. Haha.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Feb 25, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
Actually the glass is much better than it used to be. They closed Stoney after dark so the lowlifes can't drink there all night and break bottles. Much of the glass has been crushed into invisibility or washed away and the place looks pretty good. The graffiti is way down too although we still get an occassional tagger work the place over. Jim Wilson cleans a lot of that mess up.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:07am PT
just remember that rock climbing is dangerous.
"sandstone rock is estimated 800psi then it'll fail".
Guyman that person pulled,patched, drilled and drilled then placed a lag screw.

Guyman ~ my guess is that this person was doing a good deed, but needs better instruction on how to do bolt replacement.
here is my original post about this mess
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=769607&msg=770612#msg770612
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 26, 2010 - 12:18am PT
Pyro, is that "new" belay one you placed? Those new bolts look a bit too close to the old holes for my liking. Rule of thumb has always been a minimum of 10 bolt diameters from another hole, crack, fissure, etc. Even more if it's a deep bolt.

At least you got the right brew :)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:21am PT
madbolter i like you already.

"i went three inches or one good finger length to the upper right of the original FA anchor".
RM
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
weld_it wrote:
"That might have been my bro. I'll talk to him tonight after class"

then his response: "Is it dry yet? My bro is ready to drill"

Pyro response: please keep this thread alive with information and some good historical stuff. Weld_it i can only say if you like to bolt then give me a call i'll put you to work.
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
Feb 26, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Stoney........ When is El Nino done?
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 27, 2010 - 01:49am PT
rincon, that you on the right?http://www.supertopo.com/photos/2/44/145950_13909_XL.jpg

I used to boulder with you a lot in the mid 90s. Don't recall your name though...Steve was it?

Pyro, you got contact info for Mark Frunkin? Haven't seen him in god, 15-20 years?

And Keesee...I'm looking to get back out and into the swing again. When are you guys out there? Still the Tues/Thurs gig?

Reading this old thread makes me want to reconnect with all you hasbeens. I'll even bring the beer ;)

Drop me a line, rex(at)bigwall.com
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2010 - 11:52am PT
madbolter~ i sent you an email.
i left a message with mark so he should get back to me.
c-ya on tue and thur when the time is right.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
just a soaked week4stoney!
if the ground is wet then don't climb.
water and sandstone is combination for rock failure.
this time a year you just have to wait it out.
cheers!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 3, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
Rex.... how are you?

Tuesday- Thursday, it's on. .... as soon as the sunshine returns.

BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles
Mar 3, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
Great thread. I used to spend some fun afternoons out there late 80's. Anyone remember the asian kid named Kwan? I always thought he was one of the most naturally talented climbers I'd seen...and Art of Climbing! Loved that place. It was the first indoor wall I ever touched, and the whole place smelled like gear.
I should have more memories than I do, but it's not called Stoney for nothing!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
check out some Boche's old pins!...i'd hold on to em'.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1104287&msg=1104740#msg1104740
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2010 - 12:28am PT
Just some good photos.
Thanks Mark frunkin.
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Mar 4, 2010 - 12:48am PT
Hey Guy...I'm doing good. Trying to get back into it. Have had a bunch of back problems that have really slowed me down. That's on top of the weight I put on over the last 8 yrs or so while I've been "on the couch." Dropped a bunch of it, now just working to stretch and strengthen the lower back. Probably start seeing me and my 11 yr old daughter out there again, especially once daylight savings kicks in. Hard for us to get out there before 6 unless I'm bringing my "hell on wheels" 4 yr old boy too. Not sure how conducive that would be to actually climbing, haha.

BruceAnderson, I remember Kwan. Agree, he was a natural. So freakin' light I could throw him to the top of Turlock myself. LOL. I probably climbed with you during those years too.

Pyro, thanks for Marks number. I haven't had a chance to connect yet, but I will!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 4, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
Ryan - Get Marks pic of the hawk walking on the ground up here! Lates-

Matt
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 02:54am PT
okay matty but first here is....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 03:16am PT
hello Falcon!
nice to meet you.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 03:45am PT
thanks for look'n.




cheers!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
just a cold breeze out there today!
enjoy.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
Rich always a pleasure hanging with ya!
smoke and beer will flow this tuesday!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 12, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
It was pretty cold yesterday at Stoney.

That makes for good friction.

The whole crew decided it was dry enuf to go around back and hit up the Yabo Boulder.


Aaron Sandlow was up first.











Stoney is starting to bloom



Some old dude on a V1.... crank it out.


Next up, De-Meat-fritz, tackles the Largonaught.














So these two classics are now chalked up.

We then turned our attention to a problem to the right of the Yabo Arete, named "Ready for takeoff" first done by some "Brit" in the 80's (Thaw or J. Woodward) Ryan Murphy was able to do the second around the late 90's to put it back on the map.




Well it didn't go down today, maybe next time.

Toprope tuesdays are going to start up next Tuesday, so bring your harness, we set up some classic TR's and all are welcome to come out and play. (n00bs are always welcome, esp cute girls)

GK
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Mar 12, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
Guy - The only time I ever met Yabo he was workin on that problem to the right of the arete, in the area pictured at the end of your last set of photos there. I think this was an evening in '88. Zulim & Phuvel were there too. He said he had done it once and was trying to get it again. He called the problem "Boy Elroy." (Jetsons Boulder) Anyhow, he was working it and pulled this critical crimper hold off. I have this hold now in my personal collection. Someday when human cloning is permitted I've this sample with skin cells on it we can use to make a Yabo clone. ;-)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2010 - 11:55am PT
nice! great shots Guy and Mark.
thanks-for posting
happy to see aaron, demit, and rock brother crank'n as usual.
Yabo's arete is one of my favorite boulder problems.

Spider~ when Ryan Murphy cranked it out he already understood that everything at stoney has already been done by some great rock climber.

Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Mar 13, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
I think this trend is great. Having climbed at Stoney for 20 years. I now read some of the same discussions that have been going on at Stoney for years. Things like bolting, that NEW problem that hasn't ever been done before, and the all time favorite "DON'T CLIMB HERE AFTER THE RAIN".

Just remember, there will always be someone bolting out there thinking that they are doing a good service. The new problem, isn't new, and they will always be that someone who can't wait for dry rock.

MMM

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 15, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
Big Piton.

So true! That is what makes it so timeless..............


Top Rope Tuesday starts tomorrow, 03/16/10. We will set up some of the more sunny climbs to enjoy.

Please stop by and climb if your reading this.

We don't bite.

GK
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
Seeing Aaron and Dr. Fritz brings back old memories on those antique classics. That high shite is always exciting no matter the era.

JL
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 16, 2010 - 10:49am PT
The Dawson Bros.

Good one John.

BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Mar 16, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
Great pictures of the wildlife and wild flowers at Stoney in the spring. Here's one of my own from back in the day.
Please tell more about Top-Rope Tuesdays. What time would it typically begin and end. Russ McLean lives nearby and would like to stop at Stoney after work. But he doesn't have a computer system that allows him to visit the Taco. And what other days are there "regulars" out there?

Thanks.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Mar 16, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
If survive my drug withdrawls I plan to be at Stoney Every Thur.

Juan
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 16, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
Yes, on the front wall in at least one spot. Was just there. Those two guys in that photo were there. Hang dogging their pathetic asses up some "new 5.12" line. They never did get it, buncha blowhards-

M
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 17, 2010 - 12:52am PT
which one? the poser or the wanker?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2010 - 01:14am PT
just the start of the Top rope season
enjoy!
Mike.

climber
Mar 17, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
The raptor pix upthread are super cool. Thanks for those, pyro.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 03:15am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2010 - 12:29am PT
just a rare Thursday at the point!
first we meet up with guyman at Turlock rock
after some brews and bud were ready to move over to Spirals travere.
one by one we all take a sprint for the traverse "there and back".
after spirals it's time to move on to "Block head boulder"!
Andrew Rock climbing "cleared for take off".
today was a stoked4climbing kinda day!
cheers!
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Mar 20, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
Nice send Andrew!! So it happened on Thursday! Look out B & Y
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2010 - 01:44am PT
don't stomp on (flowers name)!
this little guy is parked right of the trail. i went back the other day to get it in the sun and it had not been fully opened.

please bring your selection of fine wine!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 21, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Good job Andrew! Did anyone else send too? Yafer when you coming out? I have a dentist appt. on Tuesday, so see you all on Thursday.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 21, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Nice send, Andrew. That problem looks hard and WAY tall.

JL
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2010 - 01:25am PT
Just a spring kind'a day!
on top-rope tuesday all climbers are welcome to join us!
"SPSAR" volunteer members! thanks for helping that stuck climber!
we started by meeting at Turlock rock.
we set up top ropes at the back area.
we like this back area because the climbing is way cool!
peace!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 24, 2010 - 10:42am PT
Yesterday at Stoney Point we had a close call.

A turon was stuck up around the base of the climb named "Pink Drips".

SPSAR (Stoney Point Search and Rescue) was called out and they responded magnificently, reaching the base in under 10 min. SPSAR removed the victim without incident or further injury. Drugs and Alcohol were definitely involved.

The rescue team was made up of "Mike" and "Gary" (pictured above).

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 24, 2010 - 11:53am PT
Kris was there? I missed it, damn dentist. Hope you are doing well Kris. I cant wait to be back at the needles with you this summer. See you all Thursday.

Matt
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 24, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
Man I gotta get out there.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 24, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
Location, location, location. If Stoney Point wasn't near a metropolitan area it would rarely, if ever, be visited.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 24, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
If Stoney Point wasn't near a metropolitan area it would rarely, if ever, be visited.

I'm not so sure. If those sandstone boulders were strewn about somewhere up in the Owens Valley it would be just beautiful.

Matty - I'm doing well, be seeing you out there soon...
SPSAR

Mountain climber
North Hollywood, CA
Mar 25, 2010 - 12:33am PT
As incident commander (Nick), I greatly thank my partner Gus for his invaluable assistance in yesterday's close call. CRISIS AVERTED, haha.

My favorite part was getting to the guy and asking him "So you're the stuck guy?" and he responded dead serious "No not stuck, just scared."

See you guys out there soon. Cheers.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 01:03am PT
welcome to the taco!
"SPSAR" is the way to go.
i went back and corrected your names.
Nick and Gus thanks!
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Mar 25, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
A ways' back, I posted the story with pictures of the "Traffic Diversion" that was instigated by the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers. Here's a B&W pic of the diversion in full operation taken from the top of Stoney.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
Boodawg: is there a traffic light at that spot today? (Santa Susana rd and Topanga cyn.). i've been told that Topanga rd wasn't a two lane road as it is now and that the city had to add lots of dirt to raise it up.
did the city have to remove tose boulders?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2010 - 02:42am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 12:40am PT
Just went over to Stoney Points backside for some Tope- Rope.
we set up at Nabisco cyn.
smearing, grunting,chalking and crimping.
weather: "nice with some clouds".
cheers!

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 11:49am PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 1, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
if tuolumne were in Nova Scotia you might not know of it. Kris would!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 1, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Apr 2, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
Pyro: In the bottom, right corner of the B&W photo, one can see the very top of the concrete buttress that forms the west end of the train tunnel. I spoke with Hennek about it, and he said that the traffic light is farther up the hill than what this pic shows. Hope this helps.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2010 - 12:44am PT
Boodawg i got a question for you!

you posted a pic a couple of months ago of sculpters crack being aid climbed by dennis. my question is did you guys also climb the faint crescent shaped aid line to the left of "sculpters crack" ?if not maybe you could identify it for us locals

thank-you!

BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Apr 3, 2010 - 07:15am PT
I don't think any of our group ever did that climb. I would guess it was first done after 1974. Sorry I couldn't help more.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2010 - 11:34am PT
Damn i was hoping for another "Boche death route" account. "after 1974" is a start. i'll keep asking around. one of these days i'll toprope that thing to see what it's all about. have a good weekend and i'll update this thread as always on tue or wed nite!
Thank's ken.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Apr 3, 2010 - 11:40am PT
I think that one is known as "Carpenter's Crack". BITD (1968) Russ Mclean did it on aid and then established a TR. LAter on I seem to remember Rich Lake getting on it and sending.
Waugh might have a better memory. I think the name came from a local back in the late 60s with the name of Jim Carpenter who did the FA.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 4, 2010 - 11:47am PT
Waugh might have a better memory.


Jack. NOT. Waugh is pretty burned out. :>)

I sort of recall nailing that in 74-75ish..... tied off baby angles, sand in your face.

Rich Lake ...now that is a name from the past, he set up shop in that canyon and could climb all of those climbs.

GK
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Apr 5, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
Thanks, Pyro, for looking out for Stoney.

Check your email for a lead to Carpenter's Crack.

FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 7, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Apr 7, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
Nice shots Mark! Really like the dog nose shot, winner right there. Keep em coming. See you soon.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 07:43am PT
flower pic's look damn good! thanks mark.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 8, 2010 - 09:38am PT
I like the one of the girl in the red dress.
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Apr 8, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
I


Stoney
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
MisterE.... you have been invited to hang with the gang so why have'nt we seen you? this tuesday is toprope tuesday feel free to join us.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
Brooks

Boulder climber
Chatsworth, CA
Apr 16, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
It's amazing what you'll find when you Google yourself. LOL

I've been loving reading this thread, so I thought I'd give it a little love bump for good measure.

On a related note, I would love to find a web savvy individual to take over the Bouldering at Stoney Point web site and forums. Passion for Stoney required. :-)

http://boulderstoney.com
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Apr 16, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
Hey Brooks,

You have been asking for years and received offers to do so. One was from me and I never received a reply. I have since moved.

Good Luck MMM
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
just a happy420!
these rains are nice but have interrupted climbing at stoney before! the flowers need this rain.
cheers!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 24, 2010 - 01:50am PT
[]
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
Super Stoney Temps!
Enjoy!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 27, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
pyro's work put to the test. another fine day at stoney
Tfish

Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
Apr 27, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
Pyro's work is amazing!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2010 - 12:49am PT
TR tuesday was excellent!
with a few weeks of this "el nino gold" we finally were able to show off a Top rope tuesday!
enjoy!

Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:15am PT
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:20am PT
Stoney Point...The cradle of climbing.

Respectfully, Yafer, it goes back a lot farther than Stoney Point...

FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
for those that know him I had to put Bo down last sat. my pal & good bud.a dam good boy.
boulderkitty

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
Mark,

So sorry to hear about Bo. He was such a sweet doggy!

Steph
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 28, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
Thought this would be appropriate on this thread too, enjoy.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Apr 28, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
MARK - BO was great, his memory will live on, I always enjoyed him.


Here are some shots of Aaron and Andrew sending "Sudden Impact" from a few weeks ago. Sudden Impact started as aid practice, hence the pin scars. Originally it was free climbed with a toprope, then soloed. I'm not sure who the first person to "boulder" the climb was (without a roped ascent first).

These first two show Aaron. Sudden Impact is STEEP, just like the hillside it sits on. If you peel from the top without a spot, you might find yourself rolling 30ft down the hill into the poison oak patch where stoney rattlesnakes are known to frequent.



Andrew sent next, it was his first time, GO ANDREW!!!


Sticks it






pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 12:14am PT
Loomis thank's! love that sequence pic of B1 boulder.
nice...!
Matty thank-you for posting the "Sudden impact".

Sorry Mark. going to miss bo.
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 29, 2010 - 02:05am PT
Boot flake, November 1986

Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 29, 2010 - 04:20am PT
Sort of crazy that Matty wrote about the very route I was talking about this weekend out at Roubidoux, which also has some highball stuff.

To my knowledge, Sudden Impact was first bouldered by Bachar in the early to mid 1980s (no crash pads). There used to be a ton of bushes and poison oak around the area so you had to be very careful. I did the climb once, with no rope, and found the top to be pretty sketchy. And the lower pockets were full of grain and grit. It was probably an aid climb in the 1960s. Bachar's rating for the climb was 5.12-. I hope this has cleaned up because the moves are classic, the route had a great heritage, but it used to be pretty crappy, quality wise.

Don't fall . . .

JL
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 29, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
mat & scott nice shots
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 3, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
cradle or not
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2010 - 11:55am PT
Frumy thanks for the photo's keep em coming!

last night was one of the better boulder sessions at the point!
big turn out. unfortunataley I did'nt bring the camera! anyway, i'll post some more Stoney pic's in the next week!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
May 7, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
I like frummy's style!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 8, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
thanks frumy!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 12, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
May 12, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
If you look careful in the last pic. You will see our FA. Yes, inside the tunnel. During a cold and rainy day. We aided up the inside & wanted to aid down the other. But, the trains wouldn't stop coming.

MMM
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 12, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 14, 2010 - 02:47am PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 16, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
keep'em coming Mark! the photo's are awesome.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
May 17, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
Coincidences abound... About six years ago, I was in the market for a Mini Cooper--preferably used. ...looked all over, was willing to fly as far as Seattle to drive one home, even had a car head-hunter on the look out for one. No luck. No used Minis to be found for love or money back then.

Eventually, on cars.com or summat, I found one that exactly fit my requirements. It turned out that the owner lived on the the frontage road just west of Stoney Point. In Pyro's photo, you can just see the trees south of the house near that open field.

Still driving that rig...

How weird was that!?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
rmuir "hopefully you went to the point that day!"
happy climbing!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 18, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
to wet for climbing - click to enlarge
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2010 - 01:35am PT
today were some good temps!
locals there were climbing and chatting.
Unknown free soloist on the 5.7 crack.
Nite!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 21, 2010 - 03:31am PT
WELD-IT did you send these guys?
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 24, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2010 - 01:47am PT
Just had to take a picture of that old oak tree near boulder one!
temps were perfect today.
never get tired of taking that shot! because it changes each month.
we had a good turn out.
from the distance you could see some bouldering going on.
Roger working on Maggies farm.
James climbing the dihedral just left of Hot tuna.
all in all Russ mclean came out! had a good feel so he want's to see us some more.
Cheers!
RM
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 26, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 27, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
I know we need the rain, but MY KINGDOM FOR A SUNNY CLIMBING DAY TODAY!oh well I'll just watch her all day.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2010 - 12:00am PT
hey Frumy i like the Turlock with the river pic. eventually mother nature will carve out some more Turlock rock for us to climb!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 28, 2010 - 01:23am PT
in the mean time i like lauren becall
I mean
mother nature would want it that way.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 30, 2010 - 07:03pm PT
saturday at stoney I noticed a group of cub/boy scout types with clueless leaders headed up the top side at stoney. One hour later -
today thing are look much better.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2010 - 01:12am PT
just enjoy the good temps because summer is right around the corner.
Top-rope tuesday is happening.
enjoy!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 11:48am PT
fatrad my take is porn industry is taking quite a hit ever since the condom thing.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jun 11, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
porn at stoney no.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2010 - 11:50am PT
damn! Frumy c-ya on tue.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
temps are gonna be hot today so, i'm going to the Beach.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
temps were perfect yestarday afternoon!
had a great time boldering. would post new pic's buut can't because computer is down!
cheers!
RM
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 11:45am PT
Temporary operations have been moved to the Malibu's Apes wall..
have fun in the summer sun!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jun 30, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
RYAN STONEY OR MALIBU ON THUR.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
Fattad Be nice! I can't drunk'n post any Mas!
besides Bobby loves the Ape wall!
I love the Ape wall!
"if you see me there with the ropes set up the feel free to "TR" that Ape wall.."
Frumy i'll text you!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
HOT TEMPS HOT TEMPS:please be careful hot temps.
load extra beer!
cooler temp bouldeing is near the beach!
take care!
RM
Tfish

Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 20, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
It's not too hot at night.


Or in the morning...
Tfish

Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 20, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
Tool Me? Aren't you supposed to say "No Homo" before you say gay comments?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
awww!

what a great way to spend the evening!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
Temps just sucked for the most part because the day was HOT!
However, towards the evening it got good!
Cole brought out a video camera.
just some Turlock rock "Boulder2" bouldering..
enjoy!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 22, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
BooDawg I have been rummaging through my slides and look what I came up with!

Ken Boche on the 1st ascent of Boche's Death Route - Stoney Point 1965
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
nice pic what very nice pic!
Boodawg that's awesome thanks Don!
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jul 27, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
This video from 1980 is fun:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI

The whipper at the end is funny!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
Temps were perfect yestarday!
Jans B-day was on the 25th so we all went over to the las Toros mexican resturant for a few Cadillac Margaritas.
cheers!
BillO

Trad climber
Yachats, OR
Aug 13, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
You never know what you'll see at Stoney Point.
Although Chatsworth is the porn capitol.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
nice!
stoney shots with stoney girls.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
temps are too hot for me i'm off to the Bu.
later yall!
BooDawg

Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
Aug 18, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
Hey Don!

What a great pic you found of the Death Route's FA! Better than any of mine, I think!

Looking forward to seeing you soon!

Ken
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 18, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
Yep, great pic.
Thanks for sharing!

This picture I took a few years ago, though I can't recognize the climbers, I do know the dog! That's Sticker up there anchored to the top of Turlock.

And Rokki contemplates life as a ranch dog...


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2010 - 01:33am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1246183/how-to-be-a-climbing-activist-the-case-of-stoney-point

and

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/769607/OLD-AID-LINE-REMOVED-from-STONEY-POINT


more Stoney talk!

hey Rincon you hit 400 on my thread!....... yeah!!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 01:47am PT
Today temps were scortching!
Metrolink cruised on bye while climbers traverse at Nabisco cyn.
Kooler temps were found at the back side. it's here that we spoke and chatted with each other. we were all excited because of a birthday party!
Happy B-day Aaron Sandlow!
Guyman being interviewed by the local electronic paper.
nite temps finaly got good the Traverse named.... Hot Tuna!
Enjoy!
Butoou

Sport climber
Malibu
Aug 25, 2010 - 02:09am PT
Happy Birthday Aaron!!!
From the Bu
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 11:53am PT
Pyr0 = imposter !

Pyr0 learn to copy the name right.......you ain't Kooool!

i heard Stoney is being published in climbing mag this next month, so my thread can't be that bad.

Bu like a good swell is hitting us right now, so go catch the wave at Malibu before it slows down...!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
Fatty...... Yabo gets credit for the First and Waugh got the second on the Tuna.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
sure thing Fatty why don't you show up and give credit! instead of hiding behind the lcd come on over and introduce yourself. would love to meet you!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
Stoney Point report from tue nite!
temps were perfect many were here to climb.
cheers!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
here are some more pics from the Tue and thur crowd
later!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 4, 2010 - 12:06am PT
it wasn't easy but i got there around 8 this morning and had an hour and half of tolerable temps. also met some dedicated boulderers (not that i'm one), including too-tall greg telling me about his latest v7 or 8. nice place in the morning--some real september cool. these guys get there at 6:30 sometimes.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2010 - 12:14pm PT
temps are gonna be hot today tony!
might have to take time to go get into the P.O.
early morning sessions are very nice. best time to get out in the hot summer dayz are either early morning or later evening.
i'll continue to post more pics of the many climbers that enjoy the point for what it is.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 6, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
Pyro.......

heading out there right now, to boulder with Yapher, come on out.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
i'll show up tomorrow! i'll even vouch for some good ole' top rope climbing.
talk to ya later guy!
Tfish

Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
Sep 10, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
Since most of you guys are history freaks about stoney...Does anyone know whats up with the 1 random bolt in the roof in the middle? I know there are some bolts on Sandstorm to the right of hot tuna for an old aid route but just wondering what this one is about.

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 10, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
Tfish..... lots of old bolts abound, the aid climbers from the 40,50, and 60's left some fossils.

Is there a story about the bolt????

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
Tfish~i've almost hit my head on that thing like a dozen or so times...becareful when at hot tuna.

i don't know the story about that thing. i'ts been there ever since i first started traversing the Tuna. in this pic the dude in the white's head is near it.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
thank's fatty maybe we'll see you on tuesday!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2010 - 01:08am PT
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Sep 20, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
You sure you didn't put in the bolt so you could hang dog Hot Tuna while you worked the moves for the FA fattrad?
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Sep 21, 2010 - 11:27am PT
How do 10 people get put down for the first ascent? Isn't there only one first? I can see like 3 people for a team on a route, but a boulder problem?
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Sep 23, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
Check out Cole's trailer for his upcoming Stoney Point Documentary:

http://stoneypointdocumentary.com/
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Sep 26, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Sep 26, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Sep 26, 2010 - 07:04pm PT
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Sep 27, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
The newest issue of Climbing mag just arrived, and it features Cole Gibsons well written Stoney Point article. I can't wait to see the documentary after watching the trailer, and now reading the story. Congratulations Cole, you did a great job and I hope it opens the door to many other opportunities.

Matt
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
i love the stoney point documentry trailer. some of my friends got a kick out of it.
temps are blazed today matty!
BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
Sep 27, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
Hey Pyro! Haven't checked in here since my #399 post on 8/18, but it's GREAT to see that you are still havin' fun out at old Stoney. Russ McLean told me that he met you and really enjoyed the time there. He's a bit of a stick-in-the-mud with all you hotties, but he's GOLD !!

Did ya' see my posting on Ancestors and Archiving when Russ and Hennek came up to Bishop this past Labor Day?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1271817/Ancestors-Archiving-Crossings-of-California-T-R

Cheers, Lad! Keep on keepin' on!
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Los Angeles
Sep 28, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
I just got into L.A, moving from Florida. I will be there at 8am tomorrow. Anyone want to sell a copy of urban rock?
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Sep 29, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
Just buy the So Cal bouldering book by Craig Fry. Its got most of Stoney in it and every other spot in so cal. Mix that with Mountain Project and you're set.
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Los Angeles
Sep 29, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
Pretty nice weather. Got hot around noon so we left. Put some time in on Kodas corner and knocked out a lot of easy stuff with my wife.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
Kodas is fun but work on getting all four of the arete's including Yabo's. that's a perfect area to hang out at..

happy one year of the Stoney thread!
Cheers!
time to have a cold one.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
Fry guide=best!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Sep 29, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
Funny. The other day for some reason I was looking through my copy of John Sherman's old Hueco Tanks guidebook. I always got a laugh out of this line, in the intro...

ENTERING THE PARK --


As you approach Hueco Tanks from the south, your first glimpse of he rocks will be dissappointing, unless you're from Stoney Point. The park appears to be nothing more than a couple of enormous brown lumps...


:-)
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 1, 2010 - 02:12am PT
another good day had. STONEY POINT GUIDE "Hellweg & fisher" 1982 still the best
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
thanks Frumy too bad my camera took a crap would have loved to get some shotz of the sunset myself..had alot of fun with all of ya like always.

hellweg & Fisher's guide is good because of the informative history that it talks about, but totally different from Fry's guide..
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 5, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
looking good for this afternoon temps. good the rocks not wet
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 12:27am PT
damn!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Oct 6, 2010 - 01:10am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 7, 2010 - 12:49am PT
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Los Angeles
Oct 7, 2010 - 11:05am PT
Last Saturday. Good times! Also, Hows the rock for this weekend? Has it been raining up there Wednesday and today?
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 7, 2010 - 11:18am PT
Rained all day yesterday. It's soaked


Public event: STONY POINT CLEANUP DAY

REI is having it's yearly "adopt a crag" event there on Saturday Oct 30th.

8:00AM-12.00PM.

Free registration online.

http://www.rei.com/event/12359/session/15184
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 7, 2010 - 11:26am PT
if we get no more rain i'm sure the weekend will be fine. sol & i will walk around stoney today if its soaked i'll say something later. no climbing today.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 7, 2010 - 11:32am PT
According to our Hall Monitor Pyro ^^^ you should stay off it for "5" days. ;) Two rain-free days should dry out the sunny-side rock. Just pull down gently my friends and leave your fumbling flake-yanker friends at home.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 7, 2010 - 11:39am PT
pyro is doing his best for the rock. which is a lot more than i can say for rei. at least from what i've seen the last few years.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 7, 2010 - 11:41am PT
Apples and Oranges Frumy. Just quoting Pyro's own advice.

For real. Peace and have a nice weekend everyone.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2010 - 11:53am PT
yeah for real peace!
three to five is what the locals tell me.

ohh and maid stop calling me hall monitor..call me the wall monitor..did you get up the bolt ladder?

also you said
Just pull down gently my friends and leave your fumbling flake-yanker friends at home.

lol!

:)

i gotta work on Sat so count me out.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 7, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
i like both apples & oranges. stoney point is sandstone the out side looks dry long before its ready to be climbed on. 3 - 5 days after a deep long rain. year before last it was taking as long as 7 - 8 days to dry out. last year each storm would bring heat & wind, stoney was drying out in 2 days. the rock is too damp today. if it warms up it will be fine sat. if not it will not be.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 9, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 12, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2010 - 10:24pm PT
that's me speaking for Baja Rich.

all who read this please help my buddy out. if you live in the LA Ventura area only.

my buddy rich's bike broke. if any of you have a clunker bike sitting in the back yard and would love to to give it up then pass it to me on tue nite at Stoney Point.

i'll give it to Baja rich!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 15, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
STONEY POINT A GREAT TRAINING GROUND - after many hard days of work at stoney you could go this way.or after many hard days at stoney this could be you.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 15, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
So I guess that was pretty good stuff....
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 18, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
we had better stuff the next day.
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Los Angeles
Oct 23, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
When did it rain last? I'm thinking of heading there around 4 pm today
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:50am PT
the winds dried things out nicely.
for those of you who don't think stoney is green , you need to stop by & take a walk.
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Los Angeles
Oct 27, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
Yeah, it is looking really nice. I will probably be up there today around 4ish. If anyone wants to bring an extra pad my wife is working the top section of masters and would love to have more than the single pad we have.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 12:29am PT
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 3, 2010 - 01:59am PT
Dude... where are your helmets? Our local safety inspector could give you a citation.



Now these guys are safe ^^^


FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 02:28am PT
justthemaid I appreciate your concern. & them hats look nice, but I assure you all climbers pictured here have heads thick as stone. - NO really have you ever tried talking to any of us.
but again thanks for the thought.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
windy and warm weather this week for stoney.
have fun!


justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 3, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
Evidently the joke needs explanation? I was poking fun of the helmet noobs... not the regulars.... and yes- really I've "talked" to and hung out with practically everyone over the years. All our local guys are a great crew.

Mr e. and I went out this morning early. Whew! it got up to 85 degrees by 9:30 AM.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
no exp. needed- them hats said it all. i was funnen with your funnen.
glad you got out this morning- it was beautiful out before the heat.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 4, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
sick from food poison last night - dragging myself to the point now
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 7, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
the weather was perfect this weekend.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 9, 2010 - 10:55am PT
good to go around 2
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 15, 2010 - 02:55am PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 15, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 19, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
Was that you you there last night Tfish?
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Nov 19, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
Yeah I had the top bunk and my buddy Mike was at the belay station 1/2 way up.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
Rudder

Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
Nov 29, 2010 - 01:59am PT
How do you think Stoney will be tomorrow, Monday? Rained Saturday night, yeah? thanks, Joe
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Dec 1, 2010 - 09:16pm PT

went out to Stoney today. Ground, and rock were dry; warm temps also.
One of my favorite problems(bitd) was the center of the north face on the Pyramid boulder. It used to go at V0. Someone has enhanced the holds. This thing is barely a problem anymore. Sad.
If you can't climb the problem, stay home or find something within your skill level. I've backed off many a problem because of that. I didn't come back with a chisel.
sorry for the rant.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 1, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
good rant
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 2, 2010 - 12:47am PT
10b I agree 100%.

Something is Freaking Wrong with some of the "climbers" today.

sad really
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
manufactured hold makers suck!

i like those mantles on pyramid boulder.

i remember earlier this year we caught some kid taking chips with a chisel out of boulder 1. i asked him why?.... he said he wanted to make a foot hold just to get to the top of boulder one.

chipper's suck azz!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 5, 2010 - 01:12am PT
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 5, 2010 - 10:38am PT
stony is a fine place, and it's great to have a guidebook for it, work out your favorite problems and circuit and know the history of it.

however, i've had some time on my hands lately and have been exploring, just for the hell of it and also for want of weekday partners, the rest of the santa susanas and venues in the santa monicas and elsewhere in ventura county. i can't believe the amount of unexplored, unclimbed or very sparsely climbed rock out there. of course, none of it compares to climbing at tahquitz, josh or the sierra. most of the rock is as crummy as stoney, some is worse, some is better. but if you've gotten used to the pleasures and dangers of santa susanna sandstone, it's good to get out a bit and broaden your perspectives. stoney can be such a fishbowl.

G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Dec 5, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
But Tony, we go to be in that fishbowl. Swimming around with all of our friends.

Yesterday afternoon the clouds broke up and the sun came out and everyone showed up a boulder 1. It was great and many hard problems were attempted or done. Just what a community crag is all about.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 5, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
Headed there for the first time right now...
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 5, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
sh#t I was just headed out to climb & it started to pour.
Sat. in the fishbowl - watching two of the best work
& push everyone forward.
I've paid good money to see lesser athletes with big echos do less.
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Dec 5, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
Ryan,
Take Healyje to the Candy Cat :-)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
sure thing R.B.

good to see flood in the mix of things.


FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 5, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
boulderkitty

Trad climber
LA
Dec 5, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
I wish I could have made it out there this weekend...
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 6, 2010 - 03:36am PT
Well, I happened to walk around the big rock out in the open by the road while the older of those two guys were there. It was just as it started to rain or I would have hung out and possibly introduced myself.

As it was I ended up talking to some folks TRing the big gash in the main wall facing the road, then went up top and back down the other side. Jumped on a top-rope for a moment that a guy named Jerry and a bunch of youngsters had set up on an overhanging face with a bunch of pockets on it.

All-in-all a fun place - sure beats the hell out of not having it there. Is the candy cat a boulder or climb?
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 6, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
What as fricken nice morning at stoney. Let Sol out of the truck & two large hawks sprang out of the oak tree by the road. took a few shoots put the camera away & 30 feet from turlock (2) I think coopers hawks flue 10 feet over my head & into the trees behind turlock. As i get the camera back out a small hawk or falcon came right over me. + blue jays - mocking birds - yellow finches - black capped chickadees - robins & more. All in less than 200 feet.All this morning & many more.


FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 7, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
& the wild life at stoney goes on - monday morning it was about birds
the bird is a little different today
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 15, 2010 - 01:04am PT
Stoney is so awesome.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 15, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
After everyone was gone last night, the cops did about 5 laps around Stoney last night. I dunno if they were looking for something or just keeping an eye out, but it was cool having some extra light when I was topping out.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 16, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Dec 16, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
Hey Stoney Climbers,

I really enjoy your postings. I have move to Ventura, a few years ago. I climbed there for twenty years. Either getting ready for the next weekend, next big thing and teaching. Even though it isn't the greatest stone to climb on. It's close and there is a lot of it. I have spent a lot of time exploring up off Rocky Peak Road. Even found some petrified wood in a rock as I passed by it. If you have a day and want to get some good exploring in, go to the saddle on R.R. Road and head towards Simi. Some good climbing still to be found up there. Enjoy and I miss having rock 20 mins away. Watch out for the poison oak.

MMM
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 17, 2010 - 12:35am PT
good thing about the fire a couple years ago - it burned away most of the poison oak.
good climbing & hiking to you.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2010 - 11:58am PT
please respect the many boulder problems that great climbers have grabbed onto.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 20, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
very nice pic's Mark
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 22, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
What a great morning at stoney. Sol thinks it's way more fun when it's raining.
first day in awhile no hawks - instead lots of crows.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 22, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
I gotta get my kayak down there.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 22, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
there is even white water for you.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 22, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
Hahahaha sweeeeetttt
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 22, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
So who were the two guys in the previous pics and who was the older guy named Jerry who was nice enough to give me a ride on his rope?
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Dec 22, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
thanks for rescuing Solstice.
you are a good man
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 22, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
thank you 10b4me - Sol is about as cool a bud as i could have.
the two guys in my picture are Mike Flood & Jan McColum - both masters - both will work to help anyone climb better.
you can see a little of jan's work on the thread ( Bacher -Yerian a short film )
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 24, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
Mark. Why do you "photoshop" to make the GREEN look greener????

HaHaHaHaHaHa.....

Sol is the luckiest dog in the world 2 b sure.

Take care

and Merry Christmas to all...
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 24, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
MARRY CHRISTMAS GUY & thanks for a good year of getting out and going all over the place - even if i didn't climb much at all. I had a blast !!!
MARRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL - ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS IS WORLD PEACE.
(but a little happiness for all will do)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2010 - 12:03am PT
happy holiday'z!
cheers!

G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Dec 25, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
Cheers and Merry Christmas. Missing Stoney today! Usually we can boulder on Christmas day but it is still way too wet for that.

Great pics Mark!!!!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 26, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
you can see Stoney from the city of Chatsworth.

can't wait to go climbing with that ole' Fossil!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
Just finished climbing the Saddlepeak ridge slab!
i Zooooomed the camera over to the Point.
I took a zOOOOOOmed pic over my shoulder at Los Angeles!
just thinking of Stoney!
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Jan 5, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
Telephoto?
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Jan 5, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
is that the one at the top of hayvenhurst? reseda blvd?
gmac

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 6, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
another fine day at stoney point...
taken with an iphone... so pretty it didn't matter.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Jan 7, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Dang! Someone tagged "Mommy's Boys" now we'll have to call it "SOG."
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
Gmac Nice Shot!
it's always a fine day at the Point!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jan 7, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
Thats not Mommys Boys is it??
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jan 7, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
I love taggers. If you catch them you get to paint them.
lots of fun for everyone.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
it's either the taggers or the cities repainting that make Stoney look gross.
good times!!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jan 11, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
Yep, that's mamas boys.

Went out yesterday for a quick visit. The rock is still wet deep down in the cracks so be careful of what you pull on. Please test each flake before or as you climb. Hope the weather holds

I'll be back today and hope to see some of you there =)I'll bring my D5 to administer beatdowns to all hold breakers. taggers too.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
go Aaron! Hey matty you like your new hammer?
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jan 13, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
looks like a great day at the point
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jan 14, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Fire across from stoney
Sparky

Trad climber
vagabon movin on
Jan 15, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
Matty u sonoofabichsubliminalpuuuunk.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jan 22, 2011 - 12:50am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Los Angeles
Jan 24, 2011 - 12:27am PT
Anyone else see that the big flake on Scorpion has been broken? It was one of my favorite warm-ups and now it is in crap condition. I am going to try to clean it soon and see how stiff it is now that you can't yolk hard and get high feet.

This is why we let stuff dry off!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2011 - 01:00am PT
have not bouldered the scorpin in a few seasons.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jan 27, 2011 - 12:49am PT
It always feels so good being the last one at Stoney.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 02:04am PT
i remember parking my VW up at the park-n-ride right where Topaga ended. i'd hit the cag before work. i'm into getting a good burn.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jan 27, 2011 - 10:17am PT
i'm into getting a good burn.

Hey PYRO, nice triple entendre! Hope to see you soon.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jan 29, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
It always feels good being the first at stoney. Pulling up no other cars - the ground still damp - the dogs running with their noses getting wet. All kinds of birds at work doing what they do best.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
Yeah, first is prolly better cuz you have sunlight.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2011 - 12:31am PT
good temps to Tr Viscious.
followed by Spriral's.
cheers!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 2, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
Does LJ always have the same shirt on when bouldering?
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 2, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
I saw the memorial to the train crash the other day:






Notice the snake in that first shot?

FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 2, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
Matty very nice - He was paying is respects.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
SSSSSS!


what a bad day for metrolink!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 4, 2011 - 01:42am PT
Too bad whoever installed that plaqued botched the job with chisel and glue. Should have bolted it on with one 3/8 inch bolt in each corner...Petz longlife would be perfect, and very permanent.

Yeah, first is prolly better cuz you have sunlight.


Yep, plus we can do solar bong rips!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Feb 4, 2011 - 05:12am PT
Anybody have a copy of the Climbing Mag. with the recent Stoney article? Guargoyle said he had submitted a photog. of me on an early ascent of "Yabo Arete" but I never got to see it, as in Newport Oregon (Where I live) there's not a big climbing community, but I'd like to see the shot. Even a low res scan, otherwise I have to try and find a copy somehow...:)
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 4, 2011 - 10:02am PT
Mike Waugh above. There is a pic of Mike Paul on Yabo Arete P.51 right side but I don't have a scanner handy.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 4, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
barking at the moon
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
hey Watusi here is a scanned pic of you. Cole might have a better pic. i'll call him.

Yabo's Arete is one of my fav's.

P.S should'nt you be climbing the Yabo arete with a guitar in ur hand!

Frumy let's do lunch! fish and chip's.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 4, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
I like Yam & Sweat potato chips with my beer thank you. I'll bring the beer if you're making the
chips. just don't make them to small. this climbing weight thing is getting out of control when you start making your chips micro sized.
boulderkitty

Trad climber
LA
Feb 5, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 7, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
sat. lots of nice people & very good climbers.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 8, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
It's a beautiful day in the neighborhood today. The sky is blue- the rock is dry & feels great - so would you be could you be my friend & go climbing with me today. I've got beer if you have chips life would be so nice.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 9, 2011 - 01:07am PT
Well you all missed a fine day of bouldering new problems by old people.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 11, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
The point was perfect today. A little wind, but the rock was nice.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 11, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
You know I almost got out there this morning for the first time in a long while. Pity. Maybe next week (if it doesn't rain).
BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:15am PT
Just a head's up! McClinski, my Canoga Park H.S., S '63 climbing buddy and I are planning to be out at Stoney on Wednesday, March 5th, work and weather permitting. Time is uncertain but mid-day is probably safe, for planning purposes, at least. Anyone else plan to be out there? Would love to connect with "regulars" even if we'd flounder compared to you all. Pyro! You around?!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 16, 2011 - 09:19am PT
Hope too see you there Boo, although I have work until 3, Pyro probably workin too, he usually has Tuesdays off though, bigger crowd then too.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 16, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
I should be around & would like to meet you. You don't have to worry about being out bouldered by me. All I do is walk around talking to old friends & say I use to that one.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
Boodawg i'd love to meet you. hope all is well. Frumy sorry you have poison oak.
nature

climber
Mysore, India
Feb 18, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
Should I set the sushi tent up on top of one of the rocks? Stoney Point SushiFest has a nice ring to it, eh?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2011 - 05:45pm PT
bring a big tent nature! can't wait to see you again i had fun bouldering with you and E the other daY!
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
Sushi tent should be back by Boulder 2 so that the riff raff don't see it from the road. You could probably get a permit from the city to drive in and party till 10 at night or so.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2011 - 12:40am PT

i can say : my first real send of yabo's arete meant it had to go pad- less. killer arete!
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Feb 20, 2011 - 01:13am PT
EXCELLENT!!!!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Feb 20, 2011 - 01:31am PT
Mega cheers Pyro for posting that! My bestest pal Guargoyle had shown it to me after Yabo had shown it to him. Stoney holds some of my greatest memories! My old pal Shawn Curtis pressing the "Lion's Head" when I was a lad...Priceless, Cheers! MP.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
happy cheers!
shady

Trad climber
Feb 20, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
Hey Pyro, thanks for starting this thread.

From birth in 53' to 65' I lived about a 1/4 mile from Stoney.
While my father worked at rocket-dyne, stoney point was my playground.

Thanks to those of you who posted pictures of way-BITD. I can now put names to those I would pester for TRs when I was a single-digit-midget.
I had no idea who I was blessed with having as my early teachers/belay slaves. Your/their instruction, patience and kindness wasn't wasted.

I hadn't seen Stoney since then, not even a picture. This intarnet thang's pretty dang cool. Strange to see Stoney's now in the middle of suburbia.

Thanks again.

Shady
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Feb 20, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
Made it out there for the first time last week with Mr E. Cool spot!



Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 20, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
Hey Boo,

March 5th is not a Wednesday - it's a Saturday and is the day McLean's father-in-law, Dick Sykes, is celebrating his 80th. So if it is in fact a Wednesday that you plan to meet at Stoney, is it going to be March 2nd or 9th?

I'm sure Russ and Lori will be in Ojai on the 5th - as will I.

BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Feb 20, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
Thanks Don! It'll be Wednesday, March 2nd at Stoney. Any chance you can be down there then? I called Hennek about visiting him on the 3rd, but he may have to make a trip to Hemet. What's your plan for coming south? Was Hennek invited to Sykes' 80th? Will it be a bash or a small gathering of close friends & family?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
now your talking Boo.
BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Feb 21, 2011 - 12:02am PT
I spoke with McLean a short while ago; sounds like a small gathering for Sykes for B-Day, but Russ says he'll be there if he doesn't have to work.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Feb 21, 2011 - 12:15am PT
Yafer? Is that mine and Guar's pal Yafer? Well Sh#t Howdy brother! It has been a long time!! :) Tweaked the colours a little but Guar guaranteed this was when I fired this beauty created by our long lost superstar...Supposed third ascent as Mike got the immediate second. Back in the day Guargoyle and I myself used to run mega laps on "The Apes" getting ready for some stiff bouldering!!! Time sure does fly...Just me my "Bubba Brush" and "Ghetto Blaster"...No pads back then, even though my back sure would have welcomed them... :) Fun at Stoney for a misbegotten Woodsonite...
MBrown

Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 25, 2011 - 12:12am PT
pyro, is that you? I would agree that padless is the proud way to send.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 25, 2011 - 12:20am PT
Knott Pyro in photo, Watusi, but Pyro did it too.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 05:28pm PT

M Brown yes matty is right! i remember cranking all the aretes in the back including Yabo's..that's of course when i was 20yrs old and only 130lbs.
today i'd be so happy to get the first move off the ground on Yabo's.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 25, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
This morning.