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pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2009 - 12:30am PT
Just another fine day at Stoney Point!
 right off of Topanga Cyn rd!  in los Angeles.  <br/>
" for me this is my ...
right off of Topanga Cyn rd! in los Angeles.
" for me this is my local climbing place".
Credit: pyro
this is located near Boulder 1.
this is located near Boulder 1.
Credit: pyro
in memory of our hero J.B.
in memory of our hero J.B.
Credit: pyro
local crowd show'n up around 3pm.
local crowd show'n up around 3pm.
Credit: pyro
Guyman down climbing while Jim Wilson and Andrew rock exchange beta!
Guyman down climbing while Jim Wilson and Andrew rock exchange beta!
Credit: pyro
cole gibson crank'n endo boy while others spot!
cole gibson crank'n endo boy while others spot!
Credit: pyro
crimp'n n crank'n!
crimp'n n crank'n!
Credit: pyro

have a nice day!
with love from Stoner's Point!

p.s if it's ur first time check'n this thread be sure to scroll all the way to the right, then click "the last" for latest updates.


ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
the ground up
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:30am PT
Nice pictures . The new forum is sick looking . Thanks for posting .
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Sep 30, 2009 - 09:02am PT
Pyro, thanks for stirring fond memories. I spent a lot of time there in the 60's with my buddies, my dear old mom would take us boys out before we could drive ourselves and wait in he car with her rosery beads......the road where you park wasn't there, it looks a lot cleaner now.....oh how time flies and things change with B1 & balance rock still there and my old friend Roy long gone. Savor your time with friends in the sun, thanks again berg heil.

Charlie D.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 30, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
Pyro, nice.

Keep it up.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
I live in Burbank but have not climbed at Stoney in at least 10 years. In the early 80's thru mid 90's I climbed there at least 4 days a week if not more. I remember lots of faces but few names except for Kamps of course, Waugh and a couple who's names I cant remember but they climbed there everyday, he had a fused ankle but it did little to slow him down and his wife climbed at a level that was seldom equaled by women back then. They were the best bouldering companions. I think their names were Jim and Laura, Jim had a kind of salt and pepper fro going on and was big into the Greatfull Dead. It is the relationships that I miss most.

I have young kids now and need to get out there and introduce them to the place like my dad did.

Thanks for the pics Pyro.

Kevin Mokracek
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
Thanks to all Stoney folks who were customers of Art of Climbing... backin the day....
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
Is that where I bought my spider tcu's (circa 1986-7)? Still use them today.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
I once did three pigs 100 times in a row to get ready for the vampire and flakes.

I used to do like 10 laps on Crystal Ball. I never see anyone these days do that route.

Juan
DMBARN

climber
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
All us climbers should be thanking YOU Ed Bannister. That shop was awesome. I took my first climbing class through your shop with Alan Bard. Took a wilderness first aide course which led me to become an EMT and wound up as a Trauma RN taking care of Yosemite climbers from time to time. The slide shows from people like Peter Hacket and one of the Lowe brothers (I can't remember which one) were inspiring. Bought my first stopper from you. When you think of the likes of Robbins and Chouinard to all who climbed at Stoney, it (and your shop) spawned a lot of great climbers.
Thanks,
Doug
dfrost7

Social climber
Sep 30, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
I used to boulder there on the way home from Ventura. I was making trips
to Bend a lot then, due to some work I was doing at Metolius. I always liked getting a climber who would be a rider for the long trip. It made me happy to do this because a lot of times people can't afford the trip and they would be going to a really great area. In this case, meet the Metolius crew, too.

Met a kid named Jay Decker there one day and told him where I was going and if he wanted to ride up, and could leave the next day, he was welcome to come along (Smith Rock). He did. We were there a week and he climbed his first 5.10, 5.11 that week. We came home and he quit his job, packed up and moved to Bend. It was so great to see that happen for him. All because of Stoney Point. The End.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 30, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
One of the most picturesque areas in Los Angeles- what does that tell you?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
Porno's4pyro! Jim.

this year alone have stumbled into four porno's being filmed. women getting their photo's taken with other women, ebony shots, nude men shots and etc. big on porn out here.


bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 30, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
Looks like a cool place as a local crag.

I'd hit that!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 30, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Sep 30, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
Nice pictures. I haven't been back in quite awhile. One of the last times I was there I fell on Rock One when holds snapped and I broke both my wrists.
Ruined a trip to Alaska for both Nick Badirka and I..........

I might just have to go back one of these tuesdays when I'm in town.

Jack
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Sep 30, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
Thanks for the pics. I bouldered there in the 80s and still sneak in once in a while when I am in LA for business.

But whats up with the pads. Where is carpet??


PS with two herniated discs I now have a cushy pad
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
"Just a really wet day for Stoney Point".

"PLEASE STAY OFF THE ROCK AFTER A RAIN STORM FOR AT LEAST 3-5DAYS".
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
sorry were closed. <br/>
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry...
sorry were closed.
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry up!
please don't climb it for a few days.
Credit: pyro
river is cleaning up all those used condoms.
river is cleaning up all those used condoms.
Credit: pyro
Good place to get a hot dog! located off of Devenshire rd.
Good place to get a hot dog! located off of Devenshire rd.
Credit: pyro
Thank-you climbers!



Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Oct 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
There are a few areas that can still be climbed.

Hot Tuna

Aid Climb inside the train tunnel. Wouldn't be the first time.

The base of planet of the ape wall stays dry at Malibu Creek.

MMM
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
cool looking boulder....

but not when it's under water!!!

Cheers to the Stoney Point Crew!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
Thanks for the TR - I've seen pictures of people climbing/bouldering at Stony (Stoney?) Point, and knew about its place in history, but never seen area and panorama photos of it. So even though JDF's photo is annoyingly wide, it does provide a nice perspective on the place.

To illustrate, somehow I always thought it was on the ocean. Apparently not.
hooblie

climber
Oct 14, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
annoyingly wide? it takes like 52 seconds for my arrow button to find the next page, for what, some rubble next to an overpass?
i mean which pixel was supposed to put me over the edge? i'll tell you. it was the 1280th
you better hide your chihuahua young man, i'm beyond the age of reason

edit: okay, i overreached re: the dog. it worked for the wicked witch, but sheez, if you can't paint a picture with a thousand pixels....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
I would know about the Ape's wall considered I live 4 min away! getting to the wall on a rainy day suck's!
Hot Tuna is a dry place, however I'd rather go to Boulderdash indoor rock climbing gym. That way I can socialize and climb at the same time.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 14, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
I gonna be on that standstone come Fri, my state unpaid day off.
Training for the Nose of Big Stone near the road.

I predict I will be doing three pigs again in less than 30 days.

Juan "Big T" De Fuca
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
I'm not bothered by the J.D.F panorama pic at all. I gives the viewers a chance to see that Stoney is suburban climbing.
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Oct 14, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
For those that maybe following chatworth climbing treads.

But the pic of the rock in the aid climbing tread.

The formation can be seen on top of the ridge above the orange tile roof in the pan. pic

MMM
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 15, 2009 - 12:33am PT
That big roof pitch is rad. More fun then the Kor Roof.

I rope soloed it years ago.

Second Ascent
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 15, 2009 - 04:53am PT
hey there pyro, say....

wonderful to see such nice rock pics...!!!

(wow, juan's is only halfway coming into view!)

*say, not being a climber, i really LIKED the rainy day pics, as well...

bldrjc (jack)(hope i got that right)---say, breaking both wrist was sure a "limiting event" for the ol' body... wow... i broke only one, once, but i could do near about anything except braid my hair---i just used the arm to manuever around somehow to help the well hand, even used my toes, so i cold knit... :O
thanks for the share...
hope they never ache and give you trouble..
hope you got to see alaska...

lastly, hhhhmm...forgot what else i was going to say... now... oh my...
great stuff here, though...

*edit: oh i know what it was..

say, juan, if your out on the ol' "sandstone" as you said, for friday,
well happy climb to you... and best wishes for it all...

*sandstone?

edit: see the pic, now, wow--fantastic picture juan, good ol' calif...
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Oct 15, 2009 - 09:51am PT
Boy, I haven't been to stoney in over 10 years. Definately some fond memories there.
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Oct 15, 2009 - 11:32am PT
love those pic's.
I have never been there. I'll have to make a visit to Stoney Point.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 15, 2009 - 11:46am PT
It's best to just stay off the stuff till it dries out.

We have lost many "great problems" because of knuckle heads who are stupid f-ks.

Last winter, while it was raining hard, I was driving past and saw a big group of climbers unloading pads.

I made an emergency U turn......

Then we had a "little talk" about Stoney with these dudes..... They packed away the pads.

You gotta take care of your crags.

GK
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 15, 2009 - 11:51am PT
I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86

Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.

Pads. What little girls.

Juan
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 15, 2009 - 11:58am PT
I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86

Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.

Pads. What little girls.

Juan


Juan....please don't hang your massive bod off any holds, ok?

C-ya friday.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 15, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
Cool..... did you make them eat it?

I know someone who caught a "graffiti artist" at work.

Held him down, and sprayed down his face with the paint.....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
i've heard that spray paint story before. funny stuff!
yeah it's kinda comforting to know that the Stoney crew drives up and down Topanga throughout the day watching and regulating climbers and their activity!
I'll post more pic's when the time comes!
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 15, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
Good to finally meet you the other day at Echo, Pyro! Wish we'd had more time to hang out!

Nice pics! Erik
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Oct 15, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
Careful Donini or Charley the Man Manson is going to pay you a visit for ragging on his turf.
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 15, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Oct 15, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
Yeah, I really miss the place!
Credit: paul roehl
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 15, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
hey there say, juan... wow, so now they got the best garden scenery in town, i'd reckon.... ;)


as to your quote:
I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86
Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.

say, do you have a picture? how large is it...
lynda had a neat boulder in yard in el portal---though it was not broken off from a climb---it did it's own "planting"... rocks in yards are wonderful... sure love them rocks...
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2009 - 12:57am PT
Just another bitch'n day at Stoney Point!
matty climbing Turlock rock!
matty climbing Turlock rock!
Credit: pyro
Crowd starting to show up!
Crowd starting to show up!
Credit: pyro
see look closely the person who used the echo friendly paint accidentl...
see look closely the person who used the echo friendly paint accidently painted the foot hold! the graffiti was not even on the foot hold. That's NOT COOL!
Credit: pyro
start'n to Pimp and crank!
start'n to Pimp and crank!
Credit: pyro
waugh crank'n like always!
waugh crank'n like always!
Credit: Guy Keesee!
Stoney Point is a cool place at nite!
Stoney Point is a cool place at nite!
Credit: pyro


Thank's for watching!

somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Oct 21, 2009 - 11:33am PT
Man I really have to get out there.
Thanks for posting Pyro love the pictures.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 21, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
Pyro...... thanks for posting.

The paint really gets me. The dam graffiti placed by "MS13" is bad enuf, but now we have some "Eco-do gooders" painting over the stone! Fu-k two coats of paint is extra slick.

And some other do-gooders took a "Hydro-blaster" to the stone, that wore off the patina exposing the soft soft soft stone underneeth, we lost good problems.

Bob Kamps was the keeper of the stone, we need a new one, how about you pyro?
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 21, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
Fat..... no way! Juan is now only a lurker.

He is never seen around those parts anymore. The photos he posted were from BITD....

If we see him we will post up some photos.

gk
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 21, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
I have stood in front of a water blast crew and defended boulder one in the early 90's. They called the police on me.

I also have gone after film crews f*#king up the rocks.

As for painting over Graffiti I have never touched Boulder one or Turlock.
All my painting except for some on Mozarts was done on the summit boulder field.

I was their last Friday and it is looking really bad again.

When I can do the pigs again I shall appear.

Juan
Howie S

climber
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 21, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
Wow,

So cool to see pics of where I cut my climbing teeth. Haven't been there in probably 13 years.

Such fond memories of bouldering with Kamps, Wilson, Guy, Forrest and Dimitry, amongst others. Bob showed me so many crazy ass traverses with some seriously contrived and contorted body positions.

What's with all the pads? Didn't have that stuff BITD. Every body should have the full experience of pitching off onto the hard dirt below Endo Boy, Yobo mantle or the like!

Also, I love how Stoney just used the B scale. So much easier to figure out ratings. If it was 5.11 or under, it could be done. If it was B1 or B1+, it would take a lot of work, but it could be done. If it was B2 or B3, it most likely was impossible :) Then again, the vibe was more like three classes of problems. I can do it, I might be able to do it, or no F-ing way I can do it.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Oct 21, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
I love people that come out to Stoney and then complain about having to do 'Eliminates'. I have been climbing there for 37 years! How in the hell am I supposed to keep things interesting unless we start eliminating the easy holds. Bouldering is a game best played with a tightly structured set of rules.


'That hold's off!'.
Howie S

climber
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 21, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
Eliminates are what make it interesting!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
What the heck happened to Waugh's hair???? My grandma has a nice shade of blue hair dye he should start using.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
KIds and a wife!!!!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 21, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
Oh, come on, Mikey had kids and a wife when I worked with him on the fire dept. I think he dyes it.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
guyman becoming keeper of the stone would be quite the honor! Bob was the keeper of the stone. give me twenty some years then i'll take you up on that. besides I like taking pictures too share online it's rich culture of climbing.
BBA

Social climber
West Linn OR
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
The more things change, the more they stay the same...



dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
Pumping the Three Pigs! If I could Just pump that out I could climb 5.10. That was my thinking long ago. I remember many days in the summer after work we would boulder at Stoney, Lots of history. It was a dump then and still today. I guess that’s what makes it Cool.

Dogtown.
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 21, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
I would like to throw one of the shaved head taggers off Jesus Wall.

Juan

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Oct 21, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
The human G_Gnome project:


That hold's off!
That hold's off!
Credit: matty
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 21, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
I noticed that a key hold to the left of three pigs is now gone. Was that done during the water blasting. I used to be able to crank up and avoid using the first three holes. If it was water blasting who the f*#k did it?

Juan
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 01:45am PT
the future is
Credit: pyro

good times!

Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 11:35am PT
BBA~thank's for posting the picture of the climbers on Boulder one!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 22, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
BBA good shots. You take em?

The one legged man is sort of famous, I can't remember his name. I did see a old LA Times article about him, he was climbing, leading, "Finger Tip" at Taquitz.

I love the "White Dude" graffiti, wish we could preserve some of it. After the last fire we found some: "Ken" "Don" "John" "1970" .......

Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Oct 22, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
Guy- my armchair mtn'eer brain recalls Ray Gorin being the one-legged climber? BBA?

Also like the extra grubby clothes on the future Patagonia CEO. A late 50's way of saying "f*K the man!" versus 60's version of long hair, 90's tattoos, '00's piercings. maybe also the result of making pitons on a forge...

and da'fuca shout out to 3 little PIGS. i used to run a dozen laps to simulate climbing a full pitch of .10a. now i'd be lucky to struggle up it w a TR geeebus.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 22, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
Swelley..

Good memory, but it's Jim Gorin with the one leg.

I found a Sierra Club historical persons site.

Jim had a comment that he could climb better with one leg cause he did not have the extra weight hanging on him. Ha Ha aha .....

Ray is his bro, both were long time climbers, Sierra Club members.

Right above there listings is one for "K. Goodykuntz" now that is a name I seem to remember from BITD.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
Y'all remember when Chelsea was a regular...?

Chelsea Griffie booting up
Chelsea Griffie booting up
Credit: Ksolem

There's some good top outs at Stoney..

This is either power glide or just to the right. Guyman or G_gnome too...
This is either power glide or just to the right. Guyman or G_gnome took it.
Credit: Ksolem

I'll be seeing you guys out there pretty soon, btw...
Maybe next week. Tuesday.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
Kris thank's for reminding me of Chelsea! I remember when she was climbing around Stoney! she was so nice to me. what a cool climber chick!
thanks for the pictures.
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
I will be at Stoney Tomorrow. Getting Back in shape after getting my life back.

Juan
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:12pm PT


Back in the Day when I was climbing solid 5.11.

1988.

Notice the fancy cool Lycra.

Juan
x15x15

climber
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
sweeeeeeeeeet!!! great thread. can't believe i now long for stoney. last time there was exactly 10 years ago with an ol' buddy. and afterwards we went and watched his chick strip at one of the many spots... damn, that was one wierd evening after that!

but, until this thread, i did not miss the place. i'm going home soon.
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:57pm PT


My 2nd Month of climbing

Check out the sticky shoes!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 11:31am PT
Jeff nice picture's. keep em coming!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 23, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
I thought hard about posting these pictures, but decided it would be ok.

It was a sad but very special day when climbers and friends came to Stoney Point from all over the place to remember their friend, mentor, The Master, Bob Kamps.

A Stoney Point master, Jeff Johnson. Jeff just crushed the place.
A Stoney Point master, Jeff Johnson. Jeff just crushed the place.
Credit: Kris Solem

Paul Anderson. Another super strong climber with about +6 ape index to...
Paul Anderson. Another super strong climber with about +6 ape index too.
Credit: Kris Solem
Jan in front, Pete crankin'
Jan in front, Pete crankin'
Credit: Kris Solem
'Nuff said...
'Nuff said...
Credit: Kris Solem
A bizzarre moment. Keesee, Rachel McCollum, Laeger, Yoho and Eve Laege...
A bizzarre moment. Keesee, Rachel McCollum, Laeger, Yoho and Eve Laeger
Credit: Kris Solem
The back row, left to right, Dave Rearick, Vern Clevenger, Mark Powell...
The back row, left to right, Dave Rearick, Vern Clevenger, Mark Powell, Don Lauria, TM Herbert, Mike Sherrick and Andy Lichtman. In front are Beverly Woolsey (formerly Mrs Powell) and the former Mrs. Rearick., Judith Chase.
Credit: Kris Solem

May 24, 2005.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 23, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
Juan,

You got any pictures of Mommas Boy? I always like setting up shop doing laps on the Iguana on days that I cut high school classes.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 23, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Wow, that last photo is quite the role call. Lots of hard climbing stretched among them.

Is Beverly (Woolsey) where the 'Mama Woolsey' route name originated?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Oct 23, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
Yep, she would be That Momma, Woolsey.

Funny note about Papa Woolsey, Chris Wegoner was new to Josh and had started bolting that face when Powell showed up and booted him off as too inexperienced to deserve such a fine line.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 23, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
Yes.

Good shots Kris. What I remember most about that day, was when a falcon keep swooping down close to the climbers. I have never seen a falcon before or since at Stoney.

I think it was a sign.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
Yes, I remember that bird. Came through right at the end - a very beautiful flight.

I know we're all in the same boat: still can't go to Stoney Point without having fond memories of Bob Kamps. He was there when I made my first visit in January 1992 I think. He saw a new face and gave us the tour. I made the mistake of telling him I climbed in the Gunks, so he saved Hot Tuna for last.

Few things in climbing measure up to being artfully sandbagged by the best.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
thanks kris for the pics and feel free to post anything about the Point.
yes that was a sad day! I miss Bobby and his cool climber style!
10b4me

Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
Oct 23, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
brings back some good memories
BBA

Social climber
West Linn OR
Oct 23, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
Guyman - The one legged climber was Gorin, first name either Ray or Roy. He was always a surprise to see when he attacked the rock. I didn't take the shots, I believe a friend named Dave Harvey did. I'm to the right between Yvon and Harry "Latex" Daley who also called himself "the Mace" because he was a Sierra Clubber. TM Herbert is on the left.

In looking at the air view of the area, the biggest change is that the old road was two lanes and was at the same level as Boulder #1
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 27, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
BBA, Thanks for the info.

Lot's of fun over the years at the point. I started climbing there in 1973 and guys like Yvon, TM,RR, Kamps were legendary figures.

We will add you to the list.

Got any more photos?

Post em up.

GK


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
just a windy day at Stoney Point.
traversing the "Amphitheater".
traversing the "Amphitheater".
Credit: pyro
Matty topping on "High Noon".
Matty topping on "High Noon".
Credit: Guy Keesee
Slapp'n and reaching.
Slapp'n and reaching.
Credit: pyro

enjoy!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 28, 2009 - 12:26am PT
A shot of Don Lauria from the 1968 Chouinard Equipment catalog.

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Oct 28, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Thanks for the good spot guys, all I see is arms crossed and backs turned.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
here ya go Don L an Matty your both climbing the "crowd pleaser".
Credit: pyro
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Oct 29, 2009 - 11:38am PT
Keep up the good work Pyro. love the updated Stoney Point pic's.
I also love how those old school Stoney rock climbers are responding.
can't wait for Robbins or T.M to chime in!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 29, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
I'm amazed looking at that 1968 photo how much more flaky and featured the rock was before compared to now, when a couple of generations since have worked it over.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Oct 29, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
Props to the Old Dads!! Lookin' good Jan!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Oct 29, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
I took about 8 months off from Stoney in the last year, now that I have been taking T I have gone 3 times in three weeks.

It is truly amazing. I am totally weak now but hope to get back on the pigs.

Juan
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
hey Jeff
on tuesday some kid decided to pull out his chisel and hammer. I was walking back from Turlock and I thought he was pounding in a Pin. right at the start of the downclimb you'll notice like five new chisel marks. we ousted that kid and his friends immediately from the point. His excuse was that he could'nt get up to the top somehow and making a good foot hold was going to help! the funny thing about all that crazy scene is that he had a crash pad but no climbing shoes!

P.S. If that same kid is reading my posting then listen. Go gets some rock boots then get over to Stoney Point. we'll teach you how to rock climb!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 29, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
So the question is: Who's missing their crash pad?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
just another spectacular day at Stoney point!
temps were just right.
time change occurred a few weeks ago and all of us are having to adapt to it.
Spirals traverse
Spirals traverse
Credit: pyro
up in the left corner the 3:20pm Metrolink cruising on by.
up in the left corner the 3:20pm Metrolink cruising on by.
Credit: pyro
Climbers traversing and crimping at boulder One.
Climbers traversing and crimping at boulder One.
Credit: pyro
sunset shot!
sunset shot!
Credit: pyro
climbers exchange weekend plans while jan traverses the rock.
climbers exchange weekend plans while jan traverses the rock.
Credit: pyro
atop of boulder one looking down from the left.
atop of boulder one looking down from the left.
Credit: pyro
atop of boulder One from the right.
atop of boulder One from the right.
Credit: pyro

have a good day!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Nov 18, 2009 - 11:25am PT
KoolKool!
updated pictures from the Stoney crew! gotta love it!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
hey thank's for responding. the Stoney Point thread is just getting started! this place has many areas of climbing interest. i'll bring more pic's to the table.
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Nov 19, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
yeah pyro! I'll keep track of this Stoners thread!
cheers!
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Nov 19, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
It's pretty amazing to see the whole street full of cars and nowhere to park even after daylight savings has left us. This place just keeps drawing us in. So do the friends we meet there.
powderdan

Social climber
mammoth lakes
Nov 20, 2009 - 12:04am PT
does anyone remember the sword guy from around 88. apparently he rode his bike from ohio(i think) to hollywood to make swords and break into show business. he lived in the bushes behind pink floyd for a few months.

one day i was bouldering alone in front when out of the corner of my eye i noticed a young fellow, butt naked, peering at me from the bushes(those darn bushes again). i bailed.

seriously thats where it all began for me so that place will always be special. man did my fingers hurt so good as i drove home on the 118 each day.

so many good times and people!

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
dan.... wow don't remember him.... Yabo usta hang in them bushes some.

Chatsworth is the right place to come to and use your "sword" so you can break into showbizz.....

We see alot of that going on.... keeps the place fun.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 21, 2009 - 03:27am PT
I've never really been a Stoney regular but still ended up out there like 1,000 times. Here's the only shot I have of the joint, from about 30 years ago on the Yabbo Arete, V2 or something.

JL

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 21, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
Thanks for the shot. Here is one from brooks site. V2? hummm... In your photo you can see largonaut chalked up too. What year did you put that up? Any other FA's of note?

Matt


http://ayola.com/stoney/index.html
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 21, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
Largonaut, Powerglide and Ummagumma all went up around 1975, and all seemed roughly about the same difficulty. Also the Yabo mantle on Rock 1 and the stuff on Pink Floyd or whatever you call it. All good stuff and stiff 35 years ago sans pads. Don't fall.

JL
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Nov 22, 2009 - 02:19am PT
Wow...It seems like eons since I was there! My last time was with the "Guargoyle" who took me to Yabo arete. I thought it was a cool prob! (At least V2+...)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 02:30am PT
i was told that if you climbed the three boulder problems: "Yabo arete 2 router bit!.... then largonaut" earned ya a "Triple Crown"!.

pyro.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 24, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
old country, stoney point
old country, stoney point
Credit: matty


This is in the section of stoney that borders the 118, between canoga and topanga. The land used to be private, but was annexed onto the park sometime in the last 10 years (at least that's the story I got). My buddy Sparky and I have found 50+ lines on the boulders back there. you can see the freeway cracks in the background. Lemme know if anyone wants to go, I'd be happy to show ya around. The climbs are more spread out than stoney proper, and probably need some cleaning.
apogee

climber
Nov 24, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
Wow, the timing of your post above is uncanny...

I drove through Santa Susanna pass yesterday, and wondered (again) who owns the land on the north side of 118, on both sides of the pass? I've never gotten out of the car and walked it, but there is a lot more 'stone' (using the word loosely) there than at SP. Is is private land? State? City?

Got more pics of the surrounding area? Post up!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Nov 24, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
Don't know about the other land, but the spot I mentioned is now part of stoney point park. Will post more shots sometime.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Nov 24, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
I used to climb at an area between the freeway and the RXR tracks. You could drive a road just before the 118 East bound on ramp on Topanga, take the road a hundered yards or so and there was a fun crack and OW dihedral thay we used to lead. Anyone still climb over there?
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Nov 26, 2009 - 01:47am PT
hey man that picture of Largo climbing Yabo arete is bitch'n!


Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Nov 26, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
The land north at Rocky Peak Rd, is park land. But, not LA Park land. Some part of Santa Susana Park ?. Here's some information on the history. At one time a group that included Bob Hope owned the land and then lease it to Getty Oil. At that time we could drive up the road, now trail. I believe they did a land swap for it to become a park. For the right info on this check out Santa Susana Park Association.

On the other side of the 118 fwy. It is a mix of private owners, including The Church at Rocky Peak. I went climbing around the area across from the church and was asked to leave. I do believe that land is marked for homes. Even though the owner who was the one who kicked us off said "No Homes"


mmm
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 27, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
Here is some old school funk for y'all. No hands boulder problems circa 1961. Roger Brown (who filmed Sentinel- The West Face) did a little film with a star studded cast! I have never seen the film. Has anyone else seen it? From Summit June 1961.







paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Nov 27, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
Seen the article before but didn't remember there was a movie... would love to see it.

I remember folks going up and down that route with no hands but never thought of it as particularly good training, though I also remember Kamps seemed compulsive about doing it as a kind of warm up. Wish people would post up more old photos of the place... very nostalgic... thanks.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 11:40am PT
Steve grossman thank-you!
your post about "Bouldering" just enhanced this thread by 100%.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:15am PT
Not a lot of articles about Stoney Point so I am always stoked to find anything interesting.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 02:12am PT
just for Batrock!
Topanga cyn rd!
Topanga cyn rd!
Credit: pyro
Freeway crack!
Freeway crack!
Credit: pyro

a friendly hello!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
just a "good friction" kinda day!
normal crowd just showed up!
normal crowd just showed up!
Credit: pyro
 3pm crowd!
3pm crowd!
Credit: pyro
karen climbing a rock!
karen climbing a rock!
Credit: pyro
Aaron sandlow climbing "yabo's mantle"! while others watch!
Aaron sandlow climbing "yabo's mantle"! while others watch!
Credit: pyro
Bobby climb'n boulder one! while all others are just chill'n!
Bobby climb'n boulder one! while all others are just chill'n!
Credit: pyro
end of the evening boulder session.
end of the evening boulder session.
Credit: pyro
enjoy the show!


somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Dec 2, 2009 - 11:31am PT
pyro,
thanks for the new updated pic's of the Stoney crew!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
I'll keep it going for the next few months. shorter days make it harder to get out into the back area. but we got time!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Dec 3, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
If you got time why was stoney someplaceuwerenot? Only andrew me mark, guy and a few non regulars.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 4, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
Matty ... pyro has a job, and his boss is working him to death and he has all that ICE to polish at the rink.

gk
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2009 - 01:56am PT
matty, I really like that guy somethingrunout! he likes the bumps4Stoney!
cheers.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2009 - 02:08am PT
back side of Stoney Point!
back side of Stoney Point!
Credit: pyro
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Dec 5, 2009 - 11:22am PT
matty my name is pokey palomino. I live a few blocks away from that place you call stoners point. i got pyro's back when it comes to this thread!
hope to climb with you someday.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Dec 6, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
Chillin in the old country...





Anyone wanna get out this afternoon if it hasn't rained?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 6, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
Guido just wrote me and is quite sure that the Chouinard catalog shot in post #84 is Dennis Henneck not Don Lauria. Hopefully, some more historical photos will surface. Is the flake in the photo still around?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2009 - 01:43am PT
please no climbing on the sandstone.
the rains have soaked the rock like a sponge!
that means locals hate it when flakes get pulled off and world class boulder problems get ruined!!
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Dec 15, 2009 - 10:55am PT
More pics of our favorite choss pile...
Stoney Point
Stoney Point
Credit: rincon
Stoney Point and the 118 freeway.
Stoney Point and the 118 freeway.
Credit: rincon
Stoney Point!
Stoney Point!
Credit: rincon
Boulder 1
Boulder 1
Credit: rincon
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 15, 2009 - 11:14am PT
It's Tuesday.....

The sun has been shining, let's go...

rincon.... Rincon this weekend? It,s that time of year.

gk
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 15, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
Pyro,

Thats the area. Used to climb there a bunch back in the early 80's when it got crowded at the point. Thanks.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 01:09am PT
Stoney point "charrrred"! in 08'
just a friendly hello!
just a friendly hello!
Credit: pyro
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Dec 16, 2009 - 07:52am PT
I put up some sick new lines last month -

"Pink Graffiti-Cover Traverse" is destined to be a classic, and I just finished the mega-proj "Horsesh!t Wind". Also, the "Bum-Piss Cave" has it's own reward for climbing to the daylight.

Good times.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:31am PT
Mr. E .... you will need to show up, and show all of US just how/where those "NEW" problems are........ the judges are tough at that place.

It's really common to have young studs show up, fire "something new"....

Then we try to produce photograph evidence of prior accents......

Over by "PowerGlide", these kids cleared out some brush and "discovered" new stuff.... a quick review of the historical photos ( several thousand ) clearly showed a very young John Bachar, red headband and all on the said new problem. Further discussions with Jim Wilson reviled the fact that maybe, Dan McHale of Fred Beckey did it in 66. McHale confirmed that "It wasen't new" when he did it, he thought it was Royal, Royal confirmed that "Glen and his brother did it in 38..... so there you go. We value accuracy
at the old point and like to keep everything truthful.

So come on down and break some wind with the boys,you can do your new ones,
we can try em. OK.

cheers
Guy Keesee
SPCA member #1973-12

Guy Keesee
F10

Trad climber
e350
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:57am PT
"So come on down and break some wind with the boys"

Sounds like Blazing Saddles,
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 16, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
It's a serious invite.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
Rob thank's for the great shot'z! I really like the pic of the 118freeway.
misterE your always welcomed.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Dec 16, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
So far as "new" stuff, this same scenario gets played out at Roubidoux every decade or so. Photos are lacking, but there are a few of us who still remember Phil Haney, Paul Gleason, Ben Borson and others sending some pretty grim shite (up to around V8) a way back there, when we were still early on in high school. Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.

JL
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 18, 2009 - 12:45am PT
Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.

So true.

More bolts are big difference. Some things done way BITD are amazing, esp when you factor in climbing in hiking boots.

gk
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 18, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
Yesterday was really nice out at the point.

Sunny skies,with cool temps were the order of the day.

A climber from Budapest, Martin is his name, was blasting through town and he "Just had to come and see this place" We showed him some of the more classic stuff and then moved on to "hard problems." He spoke enthusiastically about the local bouldering back in Budapest. "Boulders in the forest" he said.Sounds nice.

I always like the international flavor you can sometimes find there.

Personally, I was able to hit some harder problems that I have not been able to do in about 6 years due to injuries. So I was very happy.

As long as there is no more rain and the temps stay cool the friction should be picking up some in the next few weeks.

GK
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 19, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
Guido, of course, is correct. That is a photo of Dennis Hennek, not me. I was never that young.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Dec 19, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
Part of the flake in the photo was gone by the early 70s. We used to call that particular series of moves "crowed pleaser traverse." It ended up on the nob below the infamous "rock #2 overhang." The traverse looked great but really wasn't very difficult 5.8 perhaps before the flake began to go and the ground below eroded a bit. I'm sure it's much more difficult now. I remember as holds were pulled off by 76 or so it seemed much more difficult.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Matty just hang'n on "that" flake!....
Matty just hang'n on "that" flake!....
Credit: pyro
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 23, 2009 - 11:24am PT
Pual Rohel..... I believe you are correct,The flake made the traverse 5.8....that was the last time I was able to do it.

Yesterday, 12/22/09 was cold and clear. The point, as usual, had some out of state visitors. If anybody Knows "Kieth" from Boulder,driving a outback, loaded with gear.....he says hi to all back in snowy Colorado, his next stop is "The Tree".

Anyway, a two year quest by the Topos own "matty" ended yesterday. Matt was able to finely send "Yabos Mantle" on rock one.

So we had something to celebrate.... and we broke out the frozen beers at sunset. (like we needed a reason)

late.

gk


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 11:49am PT
nice job matty!
Yabo mantle is a good one to have under your belt.
have a good holiday and a happy new year.
with love from the point.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 3, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
Here is demeets matching on the mantle, where the real business starts. Jeff Johnson says he knows of at least 17 variations to this problem. He is the only person I know that has down climbed it, though I've seen Aaron come close. The way I did it is knott the usual way, but then again I am knott a usual person. Next I will have to try Yabo arete, and I think there may be a yabo dyno up top to complete the trifecta. I'm coming home tomorrow boys. See ya tuesday

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
love this thread! here are some of my member numbers for the record.
SPCA #1995-06
ASCA#2007-07
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2010 - 01:09am PT
turlock and b1 boulder
turlock and b1 boulder
Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
just a nice kinda day!
enjoy the pic's for tuesday the 12th.
good ole Candy! <br/>
just down the street from Stoney point!
good ole Candy!
just down the street from Stoney point!
Credit: pyro
Normal 3pm crowd.
Normal 3pm crowd.
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
Mark frunkin with the puffy clouds!
Mark frunkin with the puffy clouds!
Credit: pyro
Matty on Yabo mantle.
Matty on Yabo mantle.
Credit: pyro
evening shot of the point.
evening shot of the point.
Credit: pyro
in this photo: waugh,keesee, Fritz, Olsen and Stanich,
in this photo: waugh,keesee, Fritz, Olsen and Stanich,
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
the clouds looked so stellar!
have a good day!

somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 12, 2010 - 11:57pm PT
Wow! love the candy!
beer and Tit'z!
then,
CLIMBING!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:52am PT
Good times!
Good times!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 13, 2010 - 01:06am PT
Extra trippy sunset tonight.

Can't beat 70 degree weather, good friends and good climbing.

The "Kat" is better after climbing.....IMHO.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:21am PT
puff looking clouds!
Credit: pyro
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 13, 2010 - 11:43am PT
Pyro this thread is killer!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 13, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
Thanks for shooting my better side Ryan


):RAIN:(
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
due to the rain Stoney is closed to climbers for a few days!
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 13, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
Ahh man can't climb at Stoney in the rain. that's not fun i want to go there when it rains..Haha!
thanks Pyro!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 15, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
I just found this:


http://halfcircleg.blogspot.com/2010/01/last-of-mohicans-and-big-hunk-of-cheese.html




It's a weird angle

enjoy.
sowr

Trad climber
CA
Jan 16, 2010 - 11:35am PT
Art of Climbing had a great selection of reading material - I seem to remember getting my first pair of Fire Cats from there too.

Sad that (besides Nomad Ventures) all of the specialty shops have gone away, they were great places to just hang out.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2010 - 11:41am PT
Guyman rad! looks like when top-rope season is in we'll have to give it a try!
" the group of course".
RM
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
James Doty

Trad climber
Idyllwild, Ca.
Jan 18, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
Looks kind of cool but what a zoo.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 19, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
James. Trust me, the pics don't show half of the story.

you got to try it for yourself.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
the only zoo there is the "wazoo"...
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 22, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
just wonder how soaked the sandstone is..... more soaked than a sponge....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
suuper soaked!!!.......i'm getting stir crazy........rain go away.....
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2010 - 02:33am PT

sorry were closed. <br/>
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry...
sorry were closed.
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry up!
please don't climb it for a few days.
Credit: pyro
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 25, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
Still wet with more rain on it's way. Here are some photos I mined to pass the days:


Robbins on Turlock (from John Gill's site)


Bob Kamps on Turlock (from Gill's site, photos by Bonnie Kamps)




Dolt on boulder 1


Robbins laybacking



Take care everyone-

Matt
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 26, 2010 - 01:02am PT
Some guys don't let anything get in their way.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2010 - 01:56am PT
waugh and karen climbing a rock!  <br/>
&#40;photo taken a month or two ago!&#41;
waugh and karen climbing a rock!
(photo taken a month or two ago!)
Credit: pyro
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 27, 2010 - 12:46am PT
hey went to stoney today but realized the rock is still soaked!

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2010 - 12:55am PT
the guy with the red shirt is named Guy Keesee.
Guy keesee at Stoney point.
Guy keesee at Stoney point.
Credit: pyro
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 27, 2010 - 10:55am PT
It was indeed a happybirthday...... thanks Ryan and Em.

Just waiting for it to dry up some.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Jan 27, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
I added the buckets in 1980 so my coed could do the downclimb.

Juan
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
T100
Jan 27, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
Safe to climb this weekend? What do the locals think?

-Zak
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 27, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
choss...burning...my eyes...must...claw..out...
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
Zak~
last nite the national weather report claimed no rain for the weekend:) If it stays dry till saturday then climbing on the sunnyside stuff could hold up!
keep in mind this is the wet season for stoney so practice caution when crank'n on those !!!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 27, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
Mr evil. THX for the BD props.

I know the buckets were there in 1973.

so Juan is just bragging.

zak.... the weekend might be just fine, as Pyro says, keep to the stuff on the sunny side.

and BVB.... jealous?, don't try to hide the fact. :>).....I know your sitting in the snow. :>)....
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
T100
Jan 27, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
Thanks. In town this w.e. so see you there!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 28, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
FYI:
I went to the stoney point this morning and would like to say that the sandstone rock in shady locations is still wet, however the sunny stuff is super sticky!
cleaned by the rain..... and super sticky!
i'll smoke one for ya!!!
love this thread PYRO!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 11:38am PT
just a friendly hello!
just a friendly hello!
Credit: pyro
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 30, 2010 - 11:55am PT
thanks for the post pyro.
i'll be there today and tomorrow.
i'll smoke two for ya!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
just another activity that we like to do at Stoners point!
phot taken sept15/09
 high liners at  &#40;between sculpters crack and mozarts&#41; the bac...
high liners at (between sculpters crack and mozarts) the back.
photo taken a few weeks ago.
Credit: pyro

Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
Just some good temps for this week.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#144003
stick'n to the amphitheater because its warm.
stick'n to the amphitheater because its warm.
Credit: pyro
Steve spotting Zack while Guy traverses and spectators watch.
Steve spotting Zack while Guy traverses and spectators watch.
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
enjoy!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2010 - 11:49am PT
just read this thread and watched the clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI

thank-you tarbuster for posting!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1073956/Largo_Lynn_Dave_Katz_TV_short_Early_80s

cheers!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2010 - 11:40am PT
just a friendly reminder!
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
this weekend is soaked.
drink beers instead.
cheers!
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 6, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
I first visited Stoney with unknown friends as a young pre-teen in the late 50's. Growing up in Canoga Park, it was a place to cruise & scramble around just for the fun of it. I remember once seeing some climbers, probably the Sierra Club RCS (Rock Climbing Section), with ropes and commenting to a friend that they would certainly be killed doing that kind of climbing. Little did I know what was to come.

I used to go bowling with my brother, Philip, and mom, Marjorie, fairly regularly on Sundays at the local bowling alley. One day during the winter of 1960-1961, my dad, Robert, showed up unnannounced and announced that the RCS was having a practice climb at Stoney and that my brother and I were going with him. We had been spending the previous two family summer vacations camping in Yosemite. In 1959, my dad, brother and I hiked up the cable route on Half Dome. The following summer, we three hike up Mt. Dana. It was Dad's ambition to climb Mts. Lyell and Ritter the next summer (which we did) and he felt that we needed roped climbing skills and equipment to do it safely. So we went with him to Stoney Point, and a whole new world opened up to me. The rest is history, so to speak. I never asked Mom how she felt about that day because we never went bowling with her again.

I've known Dennis Hennek since 8th grade (1958), by 1961 we were in high school (Canoga Park HS) together, and about then we began going to Stoney Point every Saturday and Sunday and sometimes even after school. One day in the hall at my locker, Dennis and I were talking about climbing whild I was holding "A Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" in my hand. An unknown student, Russ McLean overheard our conversation and stopped to introduce himself. I guess we were a little stand-offish, and Russ felt rejected, but soon we met him again at Stoney, and others in our high school class joined us three on our weekend forays to Stoney.

We three graduated from high school in 1963, and that summer, in addition to a climbing trip to the Tetons with my father and brother, I did a hike into Bullfrog Lake over Kearsarge Pass from Independence, CA. From that lake, there's a lovely view of Mt. Brewer in the distance, and I greatly admired its nearly 1000' unclimbed face, and I set my sights on it. I'd never climbed anywhere but Stoney Point until then, so Russ and I took a quick trip to Tahquitz where we did two moderate climbs but were able to practice swinging leads on a real multi-pitch climbs. Late in the summer, carrying ropes and hardward we hiked (in our "kettershoes")to Bullfrog Lake where we found, by sheer coincidence, Dennis and his brothers fishing by the lake. After a short visit with them, Russ and I continued on and eventually set up a camp near the base of the Mt. Brewer's NE face. That's a story for another time. But after our successful ascent, the summit photos (not scanned yet!) show both Russ and I wearing our high school senior sweaters. Go Thorians [CPHS Class of S'63]! LOL!

I'm still organizing what I can see will be a massive scanning project; so far the only two pix from Stoney Point that I've done are of Don Lauria. One, dated 1965, shows him doing what I think was the second ascent of the "Boche Death Route." Is that route even done any more? The other, dated 1968, shows Don practicing aid on what we called in those days, "The Ski Tracks," two parallel cracks on the walls of one of the gullies on Stoney's backside.

Somewhere I have slides of a "Traffic Diversion" that the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers did to the traffic one Friday afternoon during the construction of the new Freeway that now goes by Stoney. That, also, will be for another time.
Dennis Hennek, 1966, Stoney Point
Dennis Hennek, 1966, Stoney Point
Credit: BooDawg
photo not found
Missing photo ID#144436
Don Laura aid climbing at Stoney Point, 1968
Don Laura aid climbing at Stoney Point, 1968
Credit: BooDawg
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 6, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
Don Lauria, 2nd ascent of "Boche Death Route" &#40;?&#41;, 1965.
Don Lauria, 2nd ascent of "Boche Death Route" (?), 1965.
Credit: BooDawg
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 6, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
Nice pics and story BooDawg!!

In the first pic of D.L., he's on Sandblast, 5.11c. it's right next to Sculpters Crack. Still trying to figure out where the Boche Death Route is though.

Looking forward to see more of your pics!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:14am PT
The Boche Death Route went from right to left up and across the blank west face (the "Front Wall" as tagged in the Stoney Point Guide 1982) of Stoney Point. The photo of Pyro's at the top of this page shows the Front Wall quite clearly - it's directly above the left edge of the oak tree behind Slant Rock.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2010 - 03:31am PT
rincon,
it's gotta be that stuff on the jesus wall...? right of the non-exist bolt ladder:you start on the 5.7 crack then clip a (chopped or missing) bolt and traverse left in the pinscars then straight up?
BooDawg thanks!

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 7, 2010 - 11:34am PT
BooDawg...... very nice. Please keep adding shots and names. We are trying to get the whole history of the Point written down. So many climbers have stories similar to yours. One day they went to Stoney and their life changed forever..... mine did for sure.

Ever get out there now?????

Edit..... is he leading the Boche Death root????
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 7, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
Yes, Lauria is leading the route; one can see the rope and crabs leading up from the center-bottom of the pic.

Living on Hawaii Island, I don't get to SoCal much, tho last time I was there, McLean and I went out and enjoyed part of a day on the rocks.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 7, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
Stoney bump!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Feb 7, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
this thread amazes me
"i hung out at the Manson caves these past rainy days!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 8, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
Very cool thread!
Refreshes the old memories nicely.

The Fish in the late 70s, Turlock:


photo, Doug Munoz
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 8, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
"Pave paradise and put up a parking lot" !!

This 1965 pic was taken near Stoney,
Spring CA poppies near Stoney Pt., now erased by freeway.
Spring CA poppies near Stoney Pt., now erased by freeway.
Credit: BooDawg
and the location has now been erased by the "new" freeway and the realignment of Topanga Canyon Bl.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:24am PT
Almost visible in the first photo is that Old Topanga Canyon Blvd used to make a large S-Turn as it passed by Stoney Point and over a railroad tunnel before heading west over the pass to Simi Valley. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the cars on the inside of the bend are all bunched up, creating a break in the traffic. This event took place around April Fool’s Day, 1969 when Team #1 the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers (who frequented Stoney for climbing practice) brought 5 of their cars and some “borrowed” orange highway cones plus a detour sign to the area.

Lower part of S-Turn directly below summit of Stoney Point.
Lower part of S-Turn directly below summit of Stoney Point.
Credit: BooDawg

Above the S-Turn, where a small road led off into a maze of roads where there were widely scattered houses, Team #2 was waiting with the cones and detour sign for the break in the traffic to arrive.

Team #2 lurking by the road, waiting for the break in the traffic.
Team #2 lurking by the road, waiting for the break in the traffic.
Credit: BooDawg

When the break arrived, they quickly set up the sign and the cones to block the highway and divert the afternoon commuter traffic into the maze of roads which had only one obscure outlet.

Team #2 lays out the cones and detour sign.
Team #2 lays out the cones and detour sign.
Credit: BooDawg

When the sign & cones were in place, the Team #1 drivers of the 5 cars led the commuter traffic up into the maze. Knowing the obscure route out, the drivers drove out around the back side of Stoney Point and walked up the back side to join Team #2 who had walked up there after setting up the sign and cones. For more than an hour, the maze of roads was a horrific traffic jam. The highway department came and opened up the road, scratching their head all the while.

The UCLA cars lead the traffic back into the maze of roads.
The UCLA cars lead the traffic back into the maze of roads.
Credit: BooDawg

We knew that these were futile efforts at resisting "progress," but it was sure fun to organize resistance anyway...
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Feb 9, 2010 - 09:40am PT
That is just such a cool piece of history! Excellent monkey-wrenching!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 9, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
BooDawg - Great posts, thanks sooo much. That traffic jam cracks me up. Got any good Kamps stories?

Matt
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 9, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
Here are two pix of the FA of the "Boche Death Route." I'm not sure who actually took the pix; they are duplicate slides. Probably Hennek, Lauria, or McLean.

FA of the "Boche Death Route."
FA of the "Boche Death Route."
Credit: BooDawg
FA of the "Boche Death Route."
FA of the "Boche Death Route."
Credit: BooDawg
ColeGibson

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:01pm PT
Hello,

My name, as if it wasn't obvious from my screen name, is Cole Gibson and I've been working on a documentary about the history of climbing at Stoney Point for the last year and half, tentatively titled "Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag." So far we've interviewed almost 20 people ranging from Glen Dawson, who first climbed at the Point in 1927, to young kids pushing the limits in the present time.

About a year before graduating from film school at USC, I found what would become my life's passion out at Stoney Point. Like so many others before me, I fell in love with climbing at Stoney and haven't looked back since. Early on I met long time climbers like Guy Keesee, Mike Flood and Jan McCollum who became mentors and are to this day very good friends. Over the years I've met some of my best friends out at the Point and the place has truly become something special to me.

The history of climbing at Stoney Point over the last hundred years is richer than cheesecake and, as a filmmaker, it was a no brainer that this needed to be my first real project outside of school. Today, the film is about 75% complete, from a shooting standpoint, and I've amassed an amazing collection of historical photos and video assets. The Sierra Club, Glen Dawson, Brooks Ayola and many others have been HUGELY instrumental in the gathering of this collection and the project wouldn't be where it is without their help. Thanks guys!!! Climbing magazine will be publishing an article I wrote on the subject this coming Fall and the movie will be finished concurrently.

As a long time lurker here on the Taco I've held off on writing a post like this but, for better or worse, the time has come. While I already have enough assets to make a very complete documentary I can always use more. So if anyone has photos or stories or anything that they'd like to donate to or share with the documentary please let me know, either here on Supertopo, or by shooting me an email at - cgibson22@gmail.com

While I don't have many more interviews to do, I do have a couple people I'd like to get a hold of. Chief of whom are Mark Powell and TM Herbert. If anyone has contact info for these guys could you please send it to me so that I can reach out to them about the project? The 60's era is a little thin right now and I think these two legends would flesh it out nicely, to say the least!

Anyway, if it calls for it, I'll be posting on here regularly but for now please enjoy the following pictures. I'd love to post more but in terms of the article and the movie I don't think it's a good idea.
Thanks,

Cole

Glen Dawson canyon jumping in the early 30's
Glen Dawson canyon jumping in the early 30's
Credit: Glen Dawson/Sierra Club
Glen and brother Muir Dawson on boulder 1
Glen and brother Muir Dawson on boulder 1
Credit: Glen Dawson/Sierra Club
Summit boulder
Summit boulder
Credit: Sierra Club
Royal Robbins leading at Stoney, pulled this one off the net so if any...
Royal Robbins leading at Stoney, pulled this one off the net so if anyone knows who took the pic or has a high quality version please let me know.
Bob Kamps at Stoney Point
Bob Kamps at Stoney Point
Credit: Bob Kamps Collection
The dreaded Power Glide crimp
The dreaded Power Glide crimp
Credit: ColeGibson
My GF Steph sending hard
My GF Steph sending hard
Credit: ColeGibson
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
Thx Cole! Great photos, looking forward to the whole shabang.

QH
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 9, 2010 - 08:33pm PT
Cool photos Cole and everyone! This thread gets better and better!

Too bad it's raining and the rock is soaked, or we'd be there right now having fun.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
B-dawg you are rad!
the traffic pic's made me think "what the hell are those students doing"? anyway, i like the pic of the S- turn with the train cruising on by!
ken Boche nice to meet ya!
when top-rope season is active we'll post some pic's of the gang climbing the "boche death route"..

tarbuster~thanks for check'n the Stoney thread. the fish is my favorite..

cole~your constant questioning stoney's history has inspired this thread...so get what you can out of it, because the world should always come climb at Stoney.
Stephanie you should get out more because i know your super strong!

Rincon i had to go to the gym today because of the rain..

sunset shot!
sunset shot!
Credit: pyro



BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 11, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
I'm pasting in these references to Stoney from what I wrote last nite elsewhere... http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1079288&tn=20

More important, as you recall, were are frequent and intense trips to Stoney and then moving beyond… Have you checked out the Stoney Point thread in the last day or so? A film maker, Cole Gibson is making a documentary on Stoney. He says the 60’s is a bit thin. Did he interview you? If not, I’m thinking he may be missing an important piece of Stoney’s influence, considering the intensity with which we climbed there and the places that we went later.

Someone else on the Stoney thread, I think, was asking me for Kamps stories. You, LongAgo, of course, are probably the best one for those…
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Feb 11, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
climbing bump
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 11, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
I helped to kick this TV short out as an independent thread not long ago.
The link belongs here as well as it's all footage shot out at Stony Point:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI


Previously posted here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1073956/Largo_Lynn_Dave_Katz_TV_short_Early_80s
LongAgo

Trad climber
Feb 11, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
Tidbits

The smell of Stoney after a rain, climbing the big face on some pothole route in the rain with Bud (Ivan) Couch both wearing plastic bags with head holes because, well, we were trying to become mountaineers or Herman Buhl or something, meeting Bob Kamps who took me under his wing and tuned my lust for the game into safe and sane climbing practice, and bantered with me and challenged me and me him on flake after flake, boulder after boulder, then back to his house for a sumptuous meal from Bonnie, and on and on to Tahquitz, Yosemite, Tuolumne with Bob, now a brain full of walls, pinnacles, domes, routes and campfires and starry nights, Bob and our times still deep within me and why, in most measure, all of climbing now rests with me like a great lasting love.

Here's a small memory of Bob at Stoney, written a couple of years ago for a Stoney guidebook which may or may not ever come out. What better place for it than this thread, this bit of cyberspace where we connect full of exuberance and heart for the big lumps of sandstone called Stoney Point:

Tribute

I vaguely remember a charred, skeletal car body at Stoney Point the first time I visited there. The place looked crummy and felt dusty and hot. The air was brown with smog. There were no climbers visible as I looked around Rock 1 (now called “Boulder 1”), just a few walkers, pooping dogs on the loose and some kids yelling, running and jumping around small boulders. Some of the boulders and higher cliffs were painted with names and hearts and four letter words. I think it was summer 1962.

I had come there to meet Bob Kamps. I had phoned him on a ruse, asking about the best rope to buy. I didn’t care about ropes. I had heard he was good. I wanted to learn about climbing and maybe get to climb real walls with him. All I had climbed at that point was the outside of my house with friend and neighbor Bud (Ivan) Couch. We had salivated over the book Freedom of the Hills, bought a few steel carabiners, a hemp rope and soft iron pitons, but never been on rock. So I steered my phone talk with Bob toward meeting at Stoney. He agreed.

After walking around some, I found Bob topping out on Rock 2 (now “Turlock” or Boulder 2). He wore a T-shirt, shorts and a light hiking boots, probably Cortinas. His hair was short, army-like. He was a little sunburned, wiry, knobby, veined and strong, matter of fact, but flashing a wry smile as we talked about how I liebacked wood siding on my house. It was the smile that told me I had a chance with him. The first thing he showed me was to use my feet, to look for edges and undulations in the rock for friction. We did some no-handed routes on a smaller rock near Rock 1. Bob moved as if walking up a stairway. I got the picture about feet. Later, we did a top-roped climb on a pothole wall at the back (east side) of the area. As I struggled up nearing a crux, he called out, “man or mouse?” My blood zoomed, and up I went.

I remember now the little circuit of Stoney routes we often did as Bob and I became lifelong climbing partners. I remember the smell of the gritty sandstone after a rain. I can feel the soft, grassy paths of the Spring, remember our bantering and competition bouldering. Bob could mantle anything. I was good at small hold endurance traverses. Over those years, Stoney and Bob built in me: wiring in a trust of tiny flakes, how to edge, hop step, step through, reach, match, smear, mantle, yell, laugh, curse and think anything was possible – all the essentials for the walls I came to do.

I remember sitting in the dirt with Bob near Rock 1 decades after our first encounter. We were spent, our arms pumped and gone, sipping a beer. I then lived in the Bay Area and was visiting for Thanksgiving (we alternated Thanksgivings visits for 30 years). Bob was eyeing a young climber, probably thinking, “no, put your foot there, not there.” By then, Bob had bouldered at Stoney about twice a week for nearly 40 years. Every flake, ledge, crack, hole and ledge was in his brain. I asked him if he remembered the first time I contacted him and he said, still looking at the climber but smiling, “Yeah, about the rope.” We laughed.

In 2005, about 200 people came to Stoney to honor Bob after his death. How fitting to hold a memorial for him there, but Bob is not gone from Stoney. He is there anytime I visit, stand still and close my eyes. Next time I go, he’ll be topping out on Rock 2 again, in his cut-off shorts, grinning.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo



guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
Tom-What a wonderful tribute to a beautiful man.

The two of you together were unbeatable.

I spent a lot of time at Stony when I was at UCLA between 1966-71, but always had to get a "visitors pass" since I was a Northern Cal boy from the Indian Rock Gang. Boche and the gang will never let you forget you are in S.Cal turf. Kamps was always fun and generous with his time and his beer.

Here is an interesting letter from Bitchen Bill Amborn, aka BBA, that portrays a day at Stony in 1962 and various other activities going on back then with some of the key players. It wasn't all climbing.
BBA to Guido circa 62
BBA to Guido circa 62
Credit: guido
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2010 - 12:03am PT
he had hands like a gecko!

this picture exhibit  exactly how bob looked like when sitting in betw...
this picture exhibit exactly how bob looked like when sitting in between sessions at the "Pot holes traverse" at Stoney ( he sure was fun to hang with and for sure my ultimate hero).

Credit: internet

Tom wrote: "The first thing he showed me was to use my feet, to look for edges and undulations in the rock for friction. We did some no-handed routes on a smaller rock near Rock 1."

~those no hand rests got challenged by a couple of gym rats the other day and non of em' could crank them out because the lack of foot technique! we showed them how bob showed us and then they got it.
thanks for the story Tom.

Guido how interesting!
thank-you


BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 12, 2010 - 04:54am PT
WOW!! Tom, thanks SO MUCH for your moving and eloquent posting about your meeting Kamps and the relationship that you and he had over SO many years. Although my dad first took me to Stoney and to the Sierra, Cascades, Tetons, and Canadian Rockies, he really couldn't mentor me the way Kamps mentored you. We were all awed by, probably somewhat envious of, the two of you over the years. Sometimes I feel like nearly all climbers develop extraordinary bonds with those whom they have really connected. But I know that you and he had a special bond and love that not every climber is blessed with such bonding. Fred Becky, for all his genius and drive, may have missed some REALLY important life lesson that I KNOW you and Bob shared. So do Guido, Hennek, and Lauria. I feel honored to have known and climbed with all of you.

Sheesh, Guido, you really do amaze me, more than ever, with your knowledge and experience around this craft we call climbing. Thanks for your insightful comments which seem to be sprouting up everywhere like wildflowers in the spring.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 13, 2010 - 07:50pm PT
He slept at stoney! Great stuff. RIP BoB
LongAgo

Trad climber
Feb 15, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
A Tad Philosophical

Ken, yes, I now realize my relation with Bob was especially formative and deep, launching me not just in climbing but shaping how I approached a host of life's pursuits. As Guido says, "It wasn't all climbing." Indeed.

As I look back these past few years, everything and nothing spins around climbing. I know I am largely who I am because of climbing. We all are who we are in large part because of climbing, so how could it not be vital? And yet, suppose my "game" had been tennis or surfing or cycling or skiing and I had met the equivalent Bob Kamps there and formed a resulting lifelong friendship and felt fulfilled, then what do we say?

Maybe we come to this: the most vital thing from the standpoint of feeling satisfied and whole in life (not to imply I always have that feeling, but by and large I do) is not so much the rock and our game on it, nor our particular climbing accomplishments which mostly will be hazy or forgotten with time, but how we go about whatever we go about. With what passion we invest ourselves in any life game, how we honor and respect those we meet, how we internalize what we come to value in others we love and admire and, then, how true we are to all we have learned and hold dear. Again, not to say that’s the path I’ve seen all along or, once seen, to which I’ve held. Far from it. It’s only in the past few years I’ve even had such thoughts. And how strange a thought, I realize, that climbing may not be the point, especially to put forth on a climbing site. But there it is: rock as mere "geography," -- stunning, superb geography, but only that compared to our inner geography, the growing and carving of our lives, which gives all things the only meaning they have.

We salute Stoney as we have on this thread. We salute times there and friends there and on all the walls. But, finally, we also must hope to salute ... ourselves.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Feb 15, 2010 - 07:32pm PT

"A strong camaraderie existed among the more habitual climbers, the regulars, and he found strength in this relationship. There was, again, a sense of separation and special-ness among them. They were separated from society by their unusual passion and their willingness to pay an extreme price. Most were woefully poor but had the hubris to take pride in their indigence -- one young man actually bragging about his ability to live on six hundred dollars a year. Many saw poverty as a rejection, an act of holy indifference. But others were simply students. They’d discovered a rather engaging, even consuming hobby and the powerful redolence of rebellion and danger. Their goal was a strange mixture of physical hardness, psychological control and emotional sensitivity in the celebration of natural beauty.

And Stony Point was their place of embarkation; it was safe and comfortable, yet it offered a sense of waiting adventure. Like so much in L.A. offering possibilities, it teased, cajoled and sometimes repelled one into pursuing further excitement."

MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Feb 15, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
Bump for the new-found happiness that comes from living 8 minutes from such a historic place in technical climbing.

It's like the start, 21 years ago at the UW rock, all over.

The learning texture feels the same.

Thanks to all the historical perspectives - I have a new-found appreciation for what initially seemed like a loud, ugly and friable crag.

Beginnings come from the least expected places, teaching and the simple and not-so-simple lessons of Stoney have renewed that fire.

Erik Wolfe
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 12:25am PT
BooDAWG!
Ken Boche I sent you an email!
Boche death route..from the left.
Boche death route..from the left.
Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 12:50am PT
just some great temps for this week!
Credit: pyro
steve working the kamp's mantle!
steve working the kamp's mantle!
Credit: pyro
 Steve working the kamp's mantle...
Steve working the kamp's mantle...
Credit: pyro
Wes on  the Kamp's mantle!
Wes on the Kamp's mantle!
Credit: pyro
stacking hands is the first variation.
stacking hands is the first variation.
Credit: pyro
enjoy the pic's!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 01:50am PT
okay ken Boche!
lets clean up your route!
from top to bottom &#40;1 out of 4&#41; 1/4" button head paird up with...
from top to bottom (1 out of 4) 1/4" button head paird up with a 1/4" bolt...
Credit: pyro
looking to the right. <br/>
just right of the black hole is a 1/4" screwto...
looking to the right.
just right of the black hole is a 1/4" screwtop w/out hanger...
Credit: pyro
another 1/4" screwtop bolt without hanger...?
another 1/4" screwtop bolt without hanger...?
Credit: pyro
thank's maybe you can identify these bolts as yours...if not then we will erase them..to give credit and restore the f.A!
R.M.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 19, 2010 - 05:46am PT
Pyro:

I got an email from Don Lauria who said that he didn’t remember any bolts from the F.A.

On thinking about the F.A., I don’t remember placing bolts anywhere at Stoney. Furthermore, I didn’t name the route, “Boche Death Route.” As I recall, the name was created by my friends to describe the consequence of taking a fall from high up on the route, so I think the original route never had any bolts in it.

If I had placed any bolts, they’d have been ¼” X 1” Rawl Drives with Leeper hangers such as shown in the pic below.

1/4" X 1” Rawl Drive bolts with Leeper hangers commonly used in the 60...
1/4" X 1” Rawl Drive bolts with Leeper hangers commonly used in the 60's.
Credit: BooDawg

Even if the bolts are removed, if they are used for aid, the climb could still be done if the holes are usable with “hooks” such as the custom ones pictured below that were made by Dennis Hennek.

Bolt hole "hooks" made by Dennis Hennek which could be tapped into bol...
Bolt hole "hooks" made by Dennis Hennek which could be tapped into bolt holes and used for aid when attached to aid slings.
Credit: BooDawg
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 19, 2010 - 11:15am PT
Bo.... so let me get this straight. TBDR was done originally on tied off pins?

friggen wild. Two of my friends, Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973 in preparation for the second accent of "Moses" in Utah. Scared the heck out of them... that ratty rock at Stoney.

One time we were hanging out at the "Oliver Moon Hotel", around midnight, somebody suggested we go and do the bolt ladder at SP by moonlight. We gathered the gear and in no time we were at the start of the climb. After a hanging party at the belay bolts, I was given the task of leading the last part.... when I hit the summit and went to go clip the anchors I interrupted a loving couple who were sharing a private moment at the time. "Sorry, excuse me, I need to clip those bolts so my friends can get up here" ..... she had nice ones too. :>)

So much has gone down at Stoney, it's quite a place to climb at.

Any more stories are welcome.

Guy Keesee
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 19, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
Yes, Guy; that's the best Don Lauria (who did the second ascent) & I can remember, and it makes sense, given the name that grew up around the route.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 19, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
I've been wondering about a couple of wino characters that frequented SP during the early sixties: One's name was Phil Mesch (sp?); I can't remember the other's. They were actually pretty good climbers on their favorite routes, and they always drank cheap Ripple wine and bragged about how much better their climbing got as an afternoon and their drunkeness progressed. Have there been any postings about them? They always added a lot of color and laughter to our "more serious" approach to climbing. VERY entertaining! Anyone have any pix of them?
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Feb 19, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
I have bouldered more at Stoney Point than any living person.

Sad but true.

Juan
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 19, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
Juan,

Only if you're older than me.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
Boche
i've already started to annotate my guide books as the "boche death route". i've pondered about nailing that thing for some time, but it goes free! my next question is do we keep a bolt to protect the next victim....i'll start by top roping it first.
Boche death route..from the left.
Boche death route..from the left.
Credit: pyro
looking to the right. <br/>
just right of the black hole is a 1/4" screwto...
looking to the right.
just right of the black hole is a 1/4" screwtop w/out hanger...
Credit: pyro
guyman
you said "Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973".
how bad azz!
later,
R.M.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 20, 2010 - 12:19am PT
If the FFA was led with the protection of a bolt, perhaps its OK to leave a bolt in to retain the character of the FFA.

Aid pins have the "It should slow me down" aspect...

I may not be the best one to decide this. Thanks for asking...

But I do like the idea of retaining the character of the commitment & confidence it takes to make the lead where there are serious consequences if the leader falls.



pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2010 - 03:14am PT
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
boulderkitty

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Feb 21, 2010 - 12:34am PT
Credit: boulderkitty
even though the rock was too wet to climb it was still a gorgeous day out at Stoney today!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 12:38am PT
just some Kool temps for today!
view from Pump rock.
view from Pump rock.
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
3pm crowd show'n up.
3pm crowd show'n up.
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
justin climbing boot flake.. meanwhile aaron and jeff talk about how h...
justin climbing boot flake.. meanwhile aaron and jeff talk about how his recovering broken arm is healing fast.
Credit: pyro
steve bullough working the Kamp's problem on slant rock.
steve bullough working the Kamp's problem on slant rock.
Credit: pyro
Boche death route &#40;bolt/rivet ladder have been erased&#41; replacement.
Boche death route (bolt/rivet ladder have been erased) replacement.
Credit: pyro
have fun!
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53am PT
Stellar picture, BoulderKitty!

Thanks for your photos and the update and your editing of the BDR, Pyro. Made wish I could have disapparated there for this afternoon's workout.
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Feb 24, 2010 - 10:04am PT
Pyro, that don't look like no boot flake to me.
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Feb 24, 2010 - 11:45am PT
hey pyro this thread just gets richer and richer with stoner point climbers history.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
Feb 24, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
Occasionally bored and dumb can lead to a good time. Or, if nothing else, a few good yuks.
I lived in the canyon for years, so it was a good 30+ minute drive to get to Stoney. So one lazy Saturday, probably late 1977, during a torrential rainstorm we decided to put down ours beers and hit the rock. We were not too motivated, so we decided to bring more beer than gear. So my fellow droog and I loaded up the beer, the gear, and other whatnots and at the last minute decided to throw in the etriers.
By the time we got to Stoney, our excitement had diminished to the point of complete dereliction. The rain had increased quite a bit, so that didn't help. Not wanting to waste the aforementioned beer we figured we best work up a plan. Like I said, we were a lazy lot, so we hit the Jesus Wall and pulled out the trees. We aided our way half way up, parked it on one of the bolts and pulled out the beer. Thinking back, I hope we would have clipped a few of those old rusty dogs.
We hung there drinking beer for a least an hour, I have no idea what the commuters must have thought. What I don't remember is how we left. Did we go up, did we go down? I have no idea. Surprisingly, no one bothered us or even stopped at the park. I imagine today the cops would be all over that.
Ah to be young, dumb and bored.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 11:51am PT
Old Topanga lizard thanks!
that old aid line was sure fun. I've practiced rope solo-techniques quite a bit on that thing.


Boche~the photo's will continue! maybe someday we all could get together for the perfect photo on the summit boulder and boulder one. Cole would love that pic for his documentry!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 25, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
Dawson Brothers at Stoney, around 1935??
Dawson Brothers at Stoney, around 1935??
Credit: Largo

This is still my favorite Stoney pic.

Sometime if I get time I'll have to describe my early adventures out at Stoney with two fierce, late, great rock warriors - Billy Westbay, and John Bachar, circa 1975, when both guys were at their peak. Some incredible stuff, and scary.

Stoney has more history than just about any place I can imagine. If those boulders could talk!

JL

PS: Per folks back channeling me about the pic below, I believe it's from around 1978, when Yabo and I first worked out the moves on Yabo Arete and a bunch of other stuff during that time - there was intense bouldering activity there for a few years, a sort of jump up in intensity that Stoney goes through here and there.

I think this Yabo Aret pic was around the time I got my first pair of Fires, by driving up to Ventura and paying cash to Bachar. Bachar and Graham imported the boots for a while in the late 70s, early 80s.

Credit: Largo
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Feb 25, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
So I hope the bad bolts are still on the main wall bolt ladder.
Thats what made it fun. Really.

Juan
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 25, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
Juan...

This is weird, but true. Some joker pulled all the old bolts, on Rap, and redrilled "new" holes in completely different spots! Then he disappeared for a while. New hardware appeared in the "new drilled holes" but it's NOT CLIMBING GEAR.... it looks like really crappy Hardware from Home Depot glued in. The new "Shuts" at the 1/2 way point look like the stuff you screw into the 2x4's in the garage to hang bikes from. Very mankey.

Pyro went out and pulled all that sh#t down, thank god, and is replacing new bolts in the original 1/4 inch locations.

We are sort of concerned with the slack liners setting up on regular 3/8 bolts placed for the few Top Ropes that have bolted anchors. We are finding loose bolts with fractures in the stone.

Anybody know the math on the amount of force required to pull a line really tight? I bet it exceeds the recommended load rating for 3/8 climbing bolts, hangers. By a TON.

Weld-it where are you?????

Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Feb 25, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
That might have been my bro. I'll talk to him tonight after class.
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 25, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
Thread brings back many good memories of climbing Tues/Thurs evenings back in the mid 80s-mid 90s with Bob Kamps, Herb Laeger, Guy Keesee, Kris Solem, Jan and Owen Fordham, Chris Hsu, Judy and Mark Powell, Mark Frumkin, Jan McCollum and my partner at the time, Karen Brotter. I dug up a few old photos to add to the mix.

Rex Pieper on route next to Power Glide, Stoney Point, CA circa 1988
Rex Pieper on route next to Power Glide, Stoney Point, CA circa 1988
Credit: Rex Pieper collection

Rex Pieper climbing Beethoven's Wall, Stoney Point, CA 1985
Rex Pieper climbing Beethoven's Wall, Stoney Point, CA 1985
Credit: Rex Pieper collection

Rex Pieper setting up toprope on Beethoven's Wall, Stoney Point, CA 19...
Rex Pieper setting up toprope on Beethoven's Wall, Stoney Point, CA 1985
Credit: Rex Pieper Collection

Karen Brotter traversing Boulder One, Stoney Point, CA circa 1987
Karen Brotter traversing Boulder One, Stoney Point, CA circa 1987
Credit: Rex Pieper

Karen Brotter at start of Boulder One Traverse, Stoney Point, CA circa...
Karen Brotter at start of Boulder One Traverse, Stoney Point, CA circa 1987
Credit: Madbolter

Karen Brotter on Boulder One Traverse, Stoney Point, CA circa 1987
Karen Brotter on Boulder One Traverse, Stoney Point, CA circa 1987
Credit: Madbolter

Karen Brotter on Boulder One Traverse, Stoney Point, CA circa 1987
Karen Brotter on Boulder One Traverse, Stoney Point, CA circa 1987
Credit: Madbolter

Karen Brotter on Pin Scars 5.9, Stoney Point, CA circa 1988
Karen Brotter on Pin Scars 5.9, Stoney Point, CA circa 1988
Credit: Rex Pieper

Joe Weber rappelling off of Jesus Wall, Stoney Point CA circa 1988
Joe Weber rappelling off of Jesus Wall, Stoney Point CA circa 1988
Credit: Madbolter
oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
Feb 25, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
The slackliners question reminds me of some other good times at Stoney. We always thought we would end up on the Lost Arrow, we never did, so we set up a tyrolean traverse at Stoney to practice our style. By the way, I'm sure our style was terrible. We set it up above and beyond the top of the Jesus Wall, I don't think it was longer than 80'. Someday I'll pull out those old slides and figure out how to post on this site. I've got a lot of old slides from Stoney, Suicide and Socal that somebody may enjoy. Maybe some of you old dogs could be lurking in the background.
I did put some of that to use on the Sun Ribbon, so it wasn't all for not.

Of course what I remember most about Stoney from the 70's was the broken glass everywhere. You couldn't walk barefoot anywhere. It's been decades, is it still that bad?
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 25, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
Glass still everywhere? Pretty much once you get away from Boulder one, Turlock, etc. (Edit: agree with GGnome, the main boulder areas are better than ever.)

Been taking my daughter out and establishing a small circuit that she can do. Her favorite boulder is the Pyramid over by Lions Head Mantles. I can't do half of what I used to, but I'm working on it!

"Off the couch" was a whole lot easier before I became a potato. Haha.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Feb 25, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
Actually the glass is much better than it used to be. They closed Stoney after dark so the lowlifes can't drink there all night and break bottles. Much of the glass has been crushed into invisibility or washed away and the place looks pretty good. The graffiti is way down too although we still get an occassional tagger work the place over. Jim Wilson cleans a lot of that mess up.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:07am PT
just remember that rock climbing is dangerous.
"sandstone rock is estimated 800psi then it'll fail".
top anchor pulled then replaced.
top anchor pulled then replaced.
Credit: pyro
old-aid line 2nd belay station replaced.
old-aid line 2nd belay station replaced.
Credit: pyro
work'n on the first belay station.
work'n on the first belay station.
Credit: mark Frumkin
Guyman that person pulled,patched, drilled and drilled then placed a lag screw.
dusted from the blow tube! 22bolts replaced on this Glen dawson "old-a...
dusted from the blow tube! 22bolts replaced on this Glen dawson "old-aid line".
Credit: Mark Frumkin
Credit: Mark frumkin
STRANGE!....white spot is the original bolt hole which has epoxy patch...
STRANGE!....white spot is the original bolt hole which has epoxy patch. a drilled hole to the right. about a foot below original rivet line is another hole followed w/the lag screw. i placed a 3/8"x10mm just one good finger length from original.
Credit: pyro
the sierra nevada will point you to the correct climbing hardware. the...
the sierra nevada will point you to the correct climbing hardware. the two pieces of hardware outside of the 3/8"x10mm w/hanger are what I found at the belay station? they should never be used.
Credit: pyro

Guyman ~ my guess is that this person was doing a good deed, but needs better instruction on how to do bolt replacement.
here is my original post about this mess
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=769607&msg=770612#msg770612
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 26, 2010 - 12:18am PT
Pyro, is that "new" belay one you placed? Those new bolts look a bit too close to the old holes for my liking. Rule of thumb has always been a minimum of 10 bolt diameters from another hole, crack, fissure, etc. Even more if it's a deep bolt.

At least you got the right brew :)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:21am PT
madbolter i like you already.

"i went three inches or one good finger length to the upper right of the original FA anchor".
RM
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Feb 26, 2010 - 01:32am PT
Is it dry yet? My bro is ready to drill
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
weld_it wrote:
"That might have been my bro. I'll talk to him tonight after class"

then his response: "Is it dry yet? My bro is ready to drill"

Pyro response: please keep this thread alive with information and some good historical stuff. Weld_it i can only say if you like to bolt then give me a call i'll put you to work.
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Feb 26, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
Totally bra! I make the mega cool anchors and my bro puts them in. He has not had good luck with them holding at Stoney though. I think the rock was too wet last time and the bolt pulled and left a crator LOL.

bubble boy

Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
Feb 26, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Stoney........ When is El Nino done?
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Feb 27, 2010 - 01:49am PT
rincon, that you on the right?http://www.supertopo.com/photos/2/44/145950_13909_XL.jpg

I used to boulder with you a lot in the mid 90s. Don't recall your name though...Steve was it?

Pyro, you got contact info for Mark Frunkin? Haven't seen him in god, 15-20 years?

And Keesee...I'm looking to get back out and into the swing again. When are you guys out there? Still the Tues/Thurs gig?

Reading this old thread makes me want to reconnect with all you hasbeens. I'll even bring the beer ;)

Drop me a line, rex(at)bigwall.com
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2010 - 11:52am PT
madbolter~ i sent you an email.
i left a message with mark so he should get back to me.
c-ya on tue and thur when the time is right.
sorry were closed. <br/>
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry...
sorry were closed.
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry up!
please don't climb it for a few days.
Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
just a soaked week4stoney!
river is cleaning up all those used condoms.
river is cleaning up all those used condoms.
Credit: pyro
bucket size pocket is filled to the rim w/H2O.
bucket size pocket is filled to the rim w/H2O.
Credit: pyro
look closely &#40;two men riding horses&#41; it's a scene straight out...
look closely (two men riding horses) it's a scene straight out of bonanza!
Credit: pyro
if the ground is wet then don't climb.
water and sandstone is combination for rock failure.
this time a year you just have to wait it out.
cheers!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 3, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
Rex.... how are you?

Tuesday- Thursday, it's on. .... as soon as the sunshine returns.

BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles
Mar 3, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
Great thread. I used to spend some fun afternoons out there late 80's. Anyone remember the asian kid named Kwan? I always thought he was one of the most naturally talented climbers I'd seen...and Art of Climbing! Loved that place. It was the first indoor wall I ever touched, and the whole place smelled like gear.
I should have more memories than I do, but it's not called Stoney for nothing!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
check out some Boche's old pins!...i'd hold on to em'.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1104287&msg=1104740#msg1104740
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2010 - 12:28am PT
Just some good photos.
Hummingbird at pump traverse.
Hummingbird at pump traverse.
Credit: Mark Frumkin
Hawk @Boulder one.
Hawk @Boulder one.
Credit: Mark Frumkin
other than humans check'n out boulder 1.
other than humans check'n out boulder 1.
Credit: Mark Frumkin
hawk on top Boulder one.
hawk on top Boulder one.
Credit: Mark Frumkin
Thanks Mark frunkin.
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Mar 4, 2010 - 12:48am PT
Hey Guy...I'm doing good. Trying to get back into it. Have had a bunch of back problems that have really slowed me down. That's on top of the weight I put on over the last 8 yrs or so while I've been "on the couch." Dropped a bunch of it, now just working to stretch and strengthen the lower back. Probably start seeing me and my 11 yr old daughter out there again, especially once daylight savings kicks in. Hard for us to get out there before 6 unless I'm bringing my "hell on wheels" 4 yr old boy too. Not sure how conducive that would be to actually climbing, haha.

BruceAnderson, I remember Kwan. Agree, he was a natural. So freakin' light I could throw him to the top of Turlock myself. LOL. I probably climbed with you during those years too.

Pyro, thanks for Marks number. I haven't had a chance to connect yet, but I will!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Mar 4, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
those wildlife pic's are awesome!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 4, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
Ryan - Get Marks pic of the hawk walking on the ground up here! Lates-

Matt
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 02:54am PT
okay matty but first here is....
Sol
Sol
Credit: Mark Frumkin
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 03:16am PT
Credit: Mark Frumkin
Bob kamps had that bench built!
Bob kamps had that bench built!
Credit: Mark Frumkin
love the moldy spotted colored black w/lime sandstone. <br/>
R.M.
love the moldy spotted colored black w/lime sandstone.
R.M.
Credit: Mark Frumkin
Yabo reincarnated!
Yabo reincarnated!
Credit: Mark Frumkin
hello Falcon!
nice to meet you.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 03:45am PT
Credit: Mark Frumkin
Credit: Mark Frumkin
Credit: Mark Frumkin
"big bird look'n out for snakes!
"big bird look'n out for snakes!
Credit: Mark frumkin
"This guy is in charge of Stoney point!"
"This guy is in charge of Stoney point!"
Credit: Mark Frumkin
thanks for look'n.




stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
cheers!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
just a cold breeze out there today!
Matty and Cole pose just like the old timers did.
Matty and Cole pose just like the old timers did.
Credit: pyro
that cloud looks like a fly'n saucer! run!!
that cloud looks like a fly'n saucer! run!!
Credit: pyro
enjoy.
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Mar 11, 2010 - 11:47am PT
hey Pyro was at stoney! thanks for all those beer cans.
my camp has moved around because some ass took my tarp.
i'm the stoney bum bump!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Mar 11, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
also, that small keg was goreat for breakfast!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
Rich always a pleasure hanging with ya!
smoke and beer will flow this tuesday!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 12, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
It was pretty cold yesterday at Stoney.

That makes for good friction.

The whole crew decided it was dry enuf to go around back and hit up the Yabo Boulder.

Yabo Boulder
Yabo Boulder
Credit: guyman

Aaron Sandlow was up first.

Low start.
Low start.
Credit: guyman


Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

The crux
The crux
Credit: guyman

A long reach, ya fall if ya don't get your feet just so.
A long reach, ya fall if ya don't get your feet just so.
Credit: M. Frumkin

It's not over, till you bust out a 5.10 mantle.
It's not over, till you bust out a 5.10 mantle.
Credit: guyman

It's done.
It's done.
Credit: guyman

Stoney is starting to bloom

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Some old dude on a V1.... crank it out.

Credit: guyman

Next up, De-Meat-fritz, tackles the Largonaught.

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman


Credit: guyman

D. Fritz making it look ez
D. Fritz making it look ez
Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman



Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

So these two classics are now chalked up.

We then turned our attention to a problem to the right of the Yabo Arete, named "Ready for takeoff" first done by some "Brit" in the 80's (Thaw or J. Woodward) Ryan Murphy was able to do the second around the late 90's to put it back on the map.

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

A.Rock
A.Rock
Credit: guyman

Well it didn't go down today, maybe next time.

Toprope tuesdays are going to start up next Tuesday, so bring your harness, we set up some classic TR's and all are welcome to come out and play. (n00bs are always welcome, esp cute girls)

GK
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Mar 12, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
Guy - The only time I ever met Yabo he was workin on that problem to the right of the arete, in the area pictured at the end of your last set of photos there. I think this was an evening in '88. Zulim & Phuvel were there too. He said he had done it once and was trying to get it again. He called the problem "Boy Elroy." (Jetsons Boulder) Anyhow, he was working it and pulled this critical crimper hold off. I have this hold now in my personal collection. Someday when human cloning is permitted I've this sample with skin cells on it we can use to make a Yabo clone. ;-)
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2010 - 11:55am PT
nice! great shots Guy and Mark.
thanks-for posting
happy to see aaron, demit, and rock brother crank'n as usual.
Yabo's arete is one of my favorite boulder problems.

Spider~ when Ryan Murphy cranked it out he already understood that everything at stoney has already been done by some great rock climber.

Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Mar 13, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
I think this trend is great. Having climbed at Stoney for 20 years. I now read some of the same discussions that have been going on at Stoney for years. Things like bolting, that NEW problem that hasn't ever been done before, and the all time favorite "DON'T CLIMB HERE AFTER THE RAIN".

Just remember, there will always be someone bolting out there thinking that they are doing a good service. The new problem, isn't new, and they will always be that someone who can't wait for dry rock.

MMM

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 15, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
Big Piton.

So true! That is what makes it so timeless..............


Top Rope Tuesday starts tomorrow, 03/16/10. We will set up some of the more sunny climbs to enjoy.

Please stop by and climb if your reading this.

We don't bite.

GK
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
Seeing Aaron and Dr. Fritz brings back old memories on those antique classics. That high shite is always exciting no matter the era.

JL
Credit: Morgan Haris
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 16, 2010 - 10:49am PT
The Dawson Bros.

Good one John.

BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Mar 16, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
Great pictures of the wildlife and wild flowers at Stoney in the spring. Here's one of my own from back in the day.
Wildflowers at Stoney.
Wildflowers at Stoney.
Credit: BooDawg
Please tell more about Top-Rope Tuesdays. What time would it typically begin and end. Russ McLean lives nearby and would like to stop at Stoney after work. But he doesn't have a computer system that allows him to visit the Taco. And what other days are there "regulars" out there?

Thanks.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Mar 16, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
If survive my drug withdrawls I plan to be at Stoney Every Thur.

Juan
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 16, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
Yes, on the front wall in at least one spot. Was just there. Those two guys in that photo were there. Hang dogging their pathetic asses up some "new 5.12" line. They never did get it, buncha blowhards-

M
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Mar 17, 2010 - 12:42am PT
I think my bro was that pathetic guy lol
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 17, 2010 - 12:52am PT
which one? the poser or the wanker?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2010 - 01:14am PT
just the start of the Top rope season
look at from up top. summit boulders.
look at from up top. summit boulders.
Credit: pyro
Andrew Rock on "last of the mahicans".
Andrew Rock on "last of the mahicans".
Credit: pyro
road side crags.
road side crags.
Credit: pyro
finished off the day at nabisco cyn.
finished off the day at nabisco cyn.
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
enjoy!
Mike.

climber
Mar 17, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
The raptor pix upthread are super cool. Thanks for those, pyro.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 03:15am PT
Stoney seen from "old Topanga".
Stoney seen from "old Topanga".
Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2010 - 12:29am PT
just a rare Thursday at the point!
first we meet up with guyman at Turlock rock
Guy keesee doing some brush clearing!
Guy keesee doing some brush clearing!
Credit: pyro
after some brews and bud were ready to move over to Spirals travere.
Credit: pyro
one by one we all take a sprint for the traverse "there and back".
spiral traverse.
spiral traverse.
Credit: pyro
Lj &#40;far right&#41; traversing spiral and is  back from a broken ha...
Lj (far right) traversing spiral and is back from a broken hand!...go LJ!
Credit: pyro
after spirals it's time to move on to "Block head boulder"!
Andrew rock's first attempt at "cleared for take off".
Andrew rock's first attempt at "cleared for take off".
Credit: pyro
Aaron cleaning the hold of with a primitive make shift tooth brush whi...
Aaron cleaning the hold of with a primitive make shift tooth brush while Lj hold him in position!
Credit: pyro
Andrew Rock climbing "cleared for take off".
andrew making the  connection with "Cleared for take off"........nice ...
andrew making the connection with "Cleared for take off"........nice job!
Credit: pyro
wonderful pic!
wonderful pic!
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
today was a stoked4climbing kinda day!
cheers!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:28am PT
hey stoney point climbers thanks for the beer cans thrown in the trash can..i made a little cash last week!
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Mar 20, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
Nice send Andrew!! So it happened on Thursday! Look out B & Y
Flaccid

Gym climber
U.S. of fukkin' A
Mar 20, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
NEXT WEEK I WILL RULE BEETHOVENS WALL
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2010 - 01:44am PT
don't stomp on (flowers name)!
this little guy is parked right of the trail. i went back the other day to get it in the sun and it had not been fully opened.

Credit: pyro
please bring your selection of fine wine!
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 21, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Good job Andrew! Did anyone else send too? Yafer when you coming out? I have a dentist appt. on Tuesday, so see you all on Thursday.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 21, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Nice send, Andrew. That problem looks hard and WAY tall.

JL
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2010 - 01:25am PT
Just a spring kind'a day!
on top-rope tuesday all climbers are welcome to join us!
Red and orange &#40;flower name&#41;.
Red and orange (flower name).
Credit: pyro
"SPSAR" volunteer members! thanks for helping that stuck climber!
these two dudes were involved in a rescued out front.  edit:"nick and ...
these two dudes were involved in a rescued out front. edit:"nick and gus".
Credit: pyro
we started by meeting at Turlock rock.
3pm crowd shown up at Turlock rock!
3pm crowd shown up at Turlock rock!
Credit: pyro
we set up top ropes at the back area.
Steve and Cole climb'n a rock the "A-frame"!
Steve and Cole climb'n a rock the "A-frame"!
Credit: pyro
we like this back area because the climbing is way cool!
Kris Solem climbing beethoven's wall while Cole climbs "Vicious".
Kris Solem climbing beethoven's wall while Cole climbs "Vicious".
Credit: pyro
Cole climb'n "Vicious" on the back side!
Cole climb'n "Vicious" on the back side!
Credit: pyro
peace!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 24, 2010 - 10:42am PT
Yesterday at Stoney Point we had a close call.

A turon was stuck up around the base of the climb named "Pink Drips".

SPSAR (Stoney Point Search and Rescue) was called out and they responded magnificently, reaching the base in under 10 min. SPSAR removed the victim without incident or further injury. Drugs and Alcohol were definitely involved.

The rescue team was made up of "Mike" and "Gary" (pictured above).

matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Mar 24, 2010 - 11:53am PT
Kris was there? I missed it, damn dentist. Hope you are doing well Kris. I cant wait to be back at the needles with you this summer. See you all Thursday.

Matt
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 24, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
Man I gotta get out there.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 24, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
Location, location, location. If Stoney Point wasn't near a metropolitan area it would rarely, if ever, be visited.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 24, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
If Stoney Point wasn't near a metropolitan area it would rarely, if ever, be visited.

I'm not so sure. If those sandstone boulders were strewn about somewhere up in the Owens Valley it would be just beautiful.

Matty - I'm doing well, be seeing you out there soon...
SPSAR

Mountain climber
North Hollywood, CA
Mar 25, 2010 - 12:33am PT
As incident commander (Nick), I greatly thank my partner Gus for his invaluable assistance in yesterday's close call. CRISIS AVERTED, haha.

My favorite part was getting to the guy and asking him "So you're the stuck guy?" and he responded dead serious "No not stuck, just scared."

See you guys out there soon. Cheers.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 01:03am PT
welcome to the taco!
"SPSAR" is the way to go.
i went back and corrected your names.
Nick and Gus thanks!
Flaccid

Gym climber
U.S. of fukkin' A
Mar 25, 2010 - 01:25am PT
THURSDAY??
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Mar 25, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
A ways' back, I posted the story with pictures of the "Traffic Diversion" that was instigated by the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers. Here's a B&W pic of the diversion in full operation taken from the top of Stoney.
Traffic Diversion near Stoney Point that took the old highway &#40;Top...
Traffic Diversion near Stoney Point that took the old highway (Topanga Canyon Bl.) off-route and into a maze of residences and small farms. April Fools! Taken from top of Stoney.
Credit: BooDawg
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
Boodawg: is there a traffic light at that spot today? (Santa Susana rd and Topanga cyn.). i've been told that Topanga rd wasn't a two lane road as it is now and that the city had to add lots of dirt to raise it up.
did the city have to remove tose boulders?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2010 - 02:42am PT
"'fire -red"colored flower.
"'fire -red"colored flower.
Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 12:40am PT
Just went over to Stoney Points backside for some Tope- Rope.
Credit: pyro
we set up at Nabisco cyn.
Credit: pyro
smearing, grunting,chalking and crimping.
guyman traverses while others cheer him on!
guyman traverses while others cheer him on!
Credit: pyro
weather: "nice with some clouds".
cheers!

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 11:49am PT
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 1, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
if tuolumne were in Nova Scotia you might not know of it. Kris would!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 1, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
angeles forest
angeles forest
Credit: FRUMY
a good day at stoney
a good day at stoney
Credit: FRUMY
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Apr 2, 2010 - 11:59am PT
hey nice pic's frumy!
was just rode bike over to the point and collected all the plastic and aluminum out of trash.
thank's!
"baja Rich"
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Apr 2, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
Pyro: In the bottom, right corner of the B&W photo, one can see the very top of the concrete buttress that forms the west end of the train tunnel. I spoke with Hennek about it, and he said that the traffic light is farther up the hill than what this pic shows. Hope this helps.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2010 - 12:44am PT
Boodawg i got a question for you!

you posted a pic a couple of months ago of sculpters crack being aid climbed by dennis. my question is did you guys also climb the faint crescent shaped aid line to the left of "sculpters crack" ?if not maybe you could identify it for us locals

the crack is named "sculpters" but look closely to the left is a dozen...
the crack is named "sculpters" but look closely to the left is a dozen pinscars with one stardrivin just a foot below the last pin scar! what is this?
Credit: pyro
this is the start of the unknown aid line. sawed of pins are all that ...
this is the start of the unknown aid line. sawed of pins are all that i think could work.
Credit: pyro
sculpters traverse!
sculpters traverse!
Credit: pyro
thank-you!

BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Apr 3, 2010 - 07:15am PT
I don't think any of our group ever did that climb. I would guess it was first done after 1974. Sorry I couldn't help more.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2010 - 11:34am PT
Damn i was hoping for another "Boche death route" account. "after 1974" is a start. i'll keep asking around. one of these days i'll toprope that thing to see what it's all about. have a good weekend and i'll update this thread as always on tue or wed nite!
Thank's ken.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Apr 3, 2010 - 11:40am PT
I think that one is known as "Carpenter's Crack". BITD (1968) Russ Mclean did it on aid and then established a TR. LAter on I seem to remember Rich Lake getting on it and sending.
Waugh might have a better memory. I think the name came from a local back in the late 60s with the name of Jim Carpenter who did the FA.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 4, 2010 - 11:47am PT
Waugh might have a better memory.


Jack. NOT. Waugh is pretty burned out. :>)

I sort of recall nailing that in 74-75ish..... tied off baby angles, sand in your face.

Rich Lake ...now that is a name from the past, he set up shop in that canyon and could climb all of those climbs.

GK
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
sorry were closed. <br/>
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry...
sorry were closed.
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry up!
please don't climb it for a few days.
Credit: pyro
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Apr 5, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
Thanks, Pyro, for looking out for Stoney.

Check your email for a lead to Carpenter's Crack.

FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 7, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
just looken
just looken
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
a other nice day at stoney
a other nice day at stoney
Credit: FRUMY
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Apr 7, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
Nice shots Mark! Really like the dog nose shot, winner right there. Keep em coming. See you soon.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 07:43am PT
flower pic's look damn good! thanks mark.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 8, 2010 - 09:38am PT
I like the one of the girl in the red dress.
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Apr 8, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
I

photo not found
Missing photo ID#152801

Stoney
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
MisterE.... you have been invited to hang with the gang so why have'nt we seen you? this tuesday is toprope tuesday feel free to join us.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#144003
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
sorry were closed. <br/>
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry...
sorry were closed.
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry up!
please don't climb it for a few days.
Credit: pyro
Brooks

Boulder climber
Chatsworth, CA
Apr 16, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
It's amazing what you'll find when you Google yourself. LOL

I've been loving reading this thread, so I thought I'd give it a little love bump for good measure.

On a related note, I would love to find a web savvy individual to take over the Bouldering at Stoney Point web site and forums. Passion for Stoney required. :-)

http://boulderstoney.com
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Apr 16, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
Hey Brooks,

You have been asking for years and received offers to do so. One was from me and I never received a reply. I have since moved.

Good Luck MMM
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
just a happy420!
sorry were closed. <br/>
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry...
sorry were closed.
This sandstone sponge will take a few days to dry up!
please don't climb it for a few days.
Credit: pyro
these rains are nice but have interrupted climbing at stoney before! the flowers need this rain.
cheers!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 24, 2010 - 01:50am PT
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
[]
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
Super Stoney Temps!
L.A.  picture taken from Topanga.
L.A. picture taken from Topanga.
Credit: pyro
Amtrack crossing at "old Topanga".
Amtrack crossing at "old Topanga".
Credit: pyro
we took this pic at the end of our session.... nice day!
we took this pic at the end of our session.... nice day!
Credit: pyro
A view of the 118 frewway!
A view of the 118 frewway!
Credit: pyro
"pin scar crack".
"pin scar crack".
Credit: pyro
Iru climbing a rock.
Iru climbing a rock.
Credit: pyro
Suburb climbing!
Suburb climbing!
Credit: pyro
Enjoy!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 27, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
Credit: FRUMY
pyro's work put to the test.
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
another fine day at stoney
Tfish

Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
Apr 27, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
Pyro's work is amazing!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2010 - 12:49am PT
TR tuesday was excellent!
with a few weeks of this "el nino gold" we finally were able to show off a Top rope tuesday!
metrolink cruisin on by!
metrolink cruisin on by!
Credit: pyro
Topanga cyn rd.
Topanga cyn rd.
Credit: pyro
Nabisco Cyn
Nabisco Cyn
Credit: pyro
Emma climbing 5.9 slab!
Emma climbing 5.9 slab!
Credit: pyro
Steve climbing "scurf".
Steve climbing "scurf".
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
Guyman and Wes on  Maggie's traverse.
Guyman and Wes on Maggie's traverse.
Credit: pyro
enjoy!

Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:15am PT
Stoney Point...The cradle of climbing.
Stoney Point...The cradle of climbing.
Credit: Yafer
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:20am PT
Stoney Point...The cradle of climbing.

Respectfully, Yafer, it goes back a lot farther than Stoney Point...

FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
for those that know him I had to put Bo down last sat. my pal & good bud.a dam good boy.
doing what dogs do best. at stoney with blue & sol
doing what dogs do best. at stoney with blue & sol
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
at the beach which he loved
at the beach which he loved
Credit: FRUMY
boulderkitty

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
Mark,

So sorry to hear about Bo. He was such a sweet doggy!

Steph
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 28, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
Thought this would be appropriate on this thread too, enjoy.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#155417
photo not found
Missing photo ID#155418
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matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Apr 28, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
MARK - BO was great, his memory will live on, I always enjoyed him.


Here are some shots of Aaron and Andrew sending "Sudden Impact" from a few weeks ago. Sudden Impact started as aid practice, hence the pin scars. Originally it was free climbed with a toprope, then soloed. I'm not sure who the first person to "boulder" the climb was (without a roped ascent first).

These first two show Aaron. Sudden Impact is STEEP, just like the hillside it sits on. If you peel from the top without a spot, you might find yourself rolling 30ft down the hill into the poison oak patch where stoney rattlesnakes are known to frequent.

Aaron starting on Sudden Impact
Aaron starting on Sudden Impact
Credit: matty

Aaron, Sudden Impact
Aaron, Sudden Impact
Credit: matty

Andrew sent next, it was his first time, GO ANDREW!!!

Andrew first crux Sudden Impact.
Andrew first crux Sudden Impact.
Credit: matty

Sticks it

ROCKing it!
ROCKing it!
Credit: matty

Andrew switches cracks on Sudden Impact
Andrew switches cracks on Sudden Impact
Credit: matty

Second crux on Sudden Impact
Second crux on Sudden Impact
Credit: matty



pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 12:14am PT
Loomis thank's! love that sequence pic of B1 boulder.
nice...!
Matty thank-you for posting the "Sudden impact".

Sorry Mark. going to miss bo.
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Apr 29, 2010 - 12:25am PT
Anchor replacement is in full swing so where did you need new ones? After I replace the bad ones that me and my bro botched I'll pop in some more steel whereever you guys want.
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 29, 2010 - 02:05am PT
Boot flake, November 1986

photo not found
Missing photo ID#155491
photo not found
Missing photo ID#155492
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Missing photo ID#155493
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Missing photo ID#155494
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Missing photo ID#155497
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Missing photo ID#155500
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Missing photo ID#155501
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Missing photo ID#155502
photo not found
Missing photo ID#155503
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 29, 2010 - 04:20am PT
Sort of crazy that Matty wrote about the very route I was talking about this weekend out at Roubidoux, which also has some highball stuff.

To my knowledge, Sudden Impact was first bouldered by Bachar in the early to mid 1980s (no crash pads). There used to be a ton of bushes and poison oak around the area so you had to be very careful. I did the climb once, with no rope, and found the top to be pretty sketchy. And the lower pockets were full of grain and grit. It was probably an aid climb in the 1960s. Bachar's rating for the climb was 5.12-. I hope this has cleaned up because the moves are classic, the route had a great heritage, but it used to be pretty crappy, quality wise.

Don't fall . . .

JL
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 29, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
mat & scott nice shots
old tried & true winter climbing fashion
old tried & true winter climbing fashion
Credit: FRUMY
new summer climbing fashion
new summer climbing fashion
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
May 1, 2010 - 11:44am PT
wow..... I just love the red "tooty-fruit"!
thanks to the Stoney point climbers for the cans.
Baja rich!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 3, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
cradle
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
or not
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2010 - 11:55am PT
Frumy thanks for the photo's keep em coming!
look at from up top. summit boulders.
look at from up top. summit boulders.
Credit: pyro

last night was one of the better boulder sessions at the point!
big turn out. unfortunataley I did'nt bring the camera! anyway, i'll post some more Stoney pic's in the next week!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
May 7, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
I like frummy's style!
Orange Monkeyflower <br/>
Orange Monkeyflower

Credit: rincon
Red Monkeyflower
Red Monkeyflower
Credit: rincon
Credit: rincon
Ladybug
Ladybug
Credit: rincon
Poppies
Poppies
Credit: rincon
You are being watched!
You are being watched!
Credit: rincon
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 8, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
yabo on boulder 1 watching over things
yabo on boulder 1 watching over things
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
thanks frumy!
mark cleaning and claiming his oak tree!
mark cleaning and claiming his oak tree!
Credit: pyro
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 12, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
Credit: FRUMY
Aaron making it look easy
Aaron making it look easy
Credit: FRUMY
James on pink drips
James on pink drips
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
May 12, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
If you look careful in the last pic. You will see our FA. Yes, inside the tunnel. During a cold and rainy day. We aided up the inside & wanted to aid down the other. But, the trains wouldn't stop coming.

MMM
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 12, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
Credit: FRUMY
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
metrolink cruisin on by!
metrolink cruisin on by!
Credit: pyro
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 14, 2010 - 02:47am PT
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 16, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
boulder 1
boulder 1
Credit: FRUMY
Credit: FRUMY
sol meets snake
sol meets snake
Credit: FRUMY