Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
|
All bolts near cracks need to be removed.
In the (even recent) past there were never any no trespassing signs, (or any chainlink fences bitd for that matter) I started going out there about 25 years ago, and a number of times since to show others when it was to cold to climb elsewhere and we only had an afternoon to kill in Reno. Never had anyone mention access issues with the (now defunct developers?) owners.
BTW, Blackwall (the best crag in the region) is on private property also. How do you decide what to leave out? I believe all crags should be included unless there are environmental or obvious access concerns, that is why it is called "LOCALS GUIDE" to................
Edit: Mogul area is not on Mountain Project......which is always full of inaccuracys anyway. Anyone can claim, and name, a fa on that site without doing any research. Thats what we have researched guidebooks for........
|
|
seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
|
Adventurous one,
I wasn't trying to ruffle any feathers, like I said, I am totally stoked on the guide and the new areas!!!!
Wasn't trying to be a jerk, just comparing this to another guide of the same price. You were asking for feedback, right?
That said, I carry this mother around with me wherever I go, it stays in the truck and I am constantly pulling it out (that's what she said) to scope lines.
I am very happy with the content, just being a s bit of book snob, I found the quality to be poor. Can't really argue there, can we?
It is still the best reference for the area and I would still recommend to all.
I guess you can read all of this as "Think before you type Kovar!!!!" a problem that I have with this site.
Respectfully,
Seth
edit: For you jack off complainers feel free to do your own guide and show John how its done. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your perfect guide book.
I don' think it's unreasonable to get a finished product that is free of hand made corrections SIlver. :)
God this site makes me feel like and ass sometimes or maybe I am just an ass sometimes.
|
|
seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
|
I feel you Silver, but I also didn't just come out to blast the book. John asked for feedback, right?
Was just my two cents...
My book doesn't look like the corrections were hand made in each book. It looked like they were made and then sent off to print, I guess that was my point.
You're right though, I'd rather have corrections than waste all that paper, good call.
:) I just need to shut up now!!!
edit:
edit x2; Seth your not an ass you are still wet behind the ears and have not much foundation to compare what we once had to what we now have to use for guide books. You're all good young buck.
True, in a way, I loathe the books. Everyone knows what they want to climb and sometimes I feel like "just taking a look"
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
|
No worries Seth,
It seems as if the "quality" issues you speak of are all related to the hand editing I did for the numbering issues on parts of River Rock and Big Chief. (Let me asure you that there are no guidebooks with 1300 routes without multiple errors). Maybe I just was the first author/publisher ever to make the "mistake" of personally spending the time (for two thousand copies) to hand edit the mistakes, out of a sense of responsibility.
Remember, this project was put togehter over a 16 year period and I was adding routes to the database all along. Now that I have all this into a single book format, it will be much easier to update/add to for future editions (Probably not for a few years though, as we are busy with a couple of other guidebook projects right now)
|
|
seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
|
Cool AO no worries!!!! Like I said I love it and use it more than most books I own...
Once again, "Quiet down Kovar" :)
edit: I love to edit too, so feel free to send me anything
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
> "wantever puts more money in your pocket"
It puts more money in your pocket, too, since you paid less than it would cost to print it somewhere more expensive.
The critique that guidebook authors have "sold out", "cashed in", etc. is opposite of the facts - it's not a way to make money (you will make way under minimum wage, even less than they pay in China :-) ).
It's a way to share what you have learned with others.
Every big project will have some error rate. I hope you share your corrections with the author.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 03:16am PT
|
^^^^^^^
"Every big project will have some error rate. I hope you share your corrections with the author."
+1
Rocman,
I did not, and would not, bash anyone. I apologize if you somehow feel slighted by anything that was written, there was nothing written in my book but praise for those that have helped establish climbing in the Tahoe Region. If you are who I suspect, there was nothing but acknowledgements for your contributions, certainly nothing negative.
If you are who I am suspecting, and I do not name you if you do not wish to reveal yourself here, it would appear you are concerned that some of the routes you claimed as first ascents were later found to possibly have been climbed previously many years earlier. No bashing there, it is very difficult sometimes to ascertain if something has been climbed before if there was no known previous documentation. No need to feel slighted or diminished if information about ealier ascents comes out, especially if those previous ascents were not done in as "pure" a style as the later ascents. In all the "mistakes" that were corrected regarding previously reported 'first ascents" for this project I never once felt that anyone had intentionally falsley claimed a first ascent. Many of the earliest historically documented "first ascents" in North Tahoe were actually only originally done as top rope routes, which further complicates the task of documenting first ascents, but effort was made to differentiate between top rope "first ascents" and lead "first ascents" of these early Tahoe / Donner routes when known.
Again, after 8 months of mass distribution, there has only been one single reported instance of a piece of incorrect information (Typo / spelling errors aside) which was a miss reported first ascentionist on a single route. I would not claim you wrong without hearing your evidence (which I have asked you for without a reply) however, it seems somewhat unlikey that you would have more knowledge of "mistakes" than the entire collective knowledge of all the rest of the climbers in the region combined, that have commented on this book, and yet not be willing to provide a single example. Again, there is a page on the website to report a mistake or provide an update to the guide. http://camp4press.com/feedbackandcorrections.html
I assure you that the collection of this archive of local climbing history and new routes, by many that continue to assist, is an ongoing endeavor and has not ended with the publication of the first comprehensive guidebook for the North Tahoe region. If you have something to add, please share it as this project was/is a collaberative effort of the local climbing community that many others have contributed historical information for.
John Jackson
|
|
Route Loser
Trad climber
Lake Almanor/Chico, CA
|
|
Would you like me to count and post the mistakes in the THIRD edition of the Yos Big Walls Book? Or better yet the second? Get over it.
Your hard work is appreciated, mistakes and all.
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Rocman, you need to chill....and learn to type, spell, and use both grammar and syntax. Your posts are unreadable. My bowels ache when I see your license plate somewhere I am going to climb.
JJ, your book is good, mistakes and all. Best book for the area to date. People will never stop bitching, no good deed goes unpunished. The ink on mine is fine, the advantages of having usable photos/topos far outweigh having some marker on the pages.
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
i dont really like guidebooks,never have.
jj's book though is pretty nice and i did contribute to it.
important history.good stuff.
more importantly i would like to thank the new local guidebook authors
for exluding the emerald bay area from there modern books.
|
|
Slinky00
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
|
|
I have been very happy with this guide book. I love all the lesser know areas closer to Reno/ Carson like Dinosaur Rock, Prison Hill, Spooner Crags, Ballbuster Rock, Thomas Creek. Sure it has some corrections, but that never really bothered me. Thanks for all the hard work you put into this guide. It's been a lot of fun exploring areas I haven't been before.
|
|
Rocman
Trad climber
Reno,NV
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:47am PT
|
Thats OK the less they know about E.B. the less crowds,Im now glad I didnot give all my intel of areas in my backyard.Rocco Spina,yes jon you know who,above pull your head out,maybe that will help?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!