New North Tahoe / Donner / Reno-Carson region guidebook

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adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
Won't be in stores for this weekend. Maybe? Next weekend. Last word was the books were on a cargo ship, from China, waiting to be unloaded in port in Los Angeles. As soon as they get to us, in Reno, they will be shipped out to the shops as well as the pre-ordered copies off the camp4press.com website.

Maybe find someone this weekend with one of the pre-ordered advance copies, (that were sent out a couple of weeks ago) at the crags to check out. They have store display copies at Alpenglow in Tahoe City, The Backcountry, The Sports Exchange, and Granite Chief in Truckee. If you already have a copy, hope you take it out this weekend and go explore some new stuff!
Zoo

climber
Fremont, CA
Jul 3, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
I'm in North Tahoe area for a 5 day weekend. I have the new book from my pre-order. It has a bunch of new areas for me to check out. So far I have been to ...

the swimming pool twice, class 1 trails walking my dog, class 1 trails with my kids, at the equestrian center leading around a pony carrying a 5 year old (yep, class 1), on a short bike ride with lots of climbing. I am looking at all the pretty pictures in the book, making plans, etc. Maybe tomorrow, or Tuesday, Wednesday possibly.

Its all good though.

pbernard02

Trad climber
Chester, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 12:06am PT
Hey John! Got the guide... been checking it out, but I haven't yet to get out and check out the routes. Arghhh... can't wait!

Paul
jstamps

Sport climber
reno, nv
Jul 13, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
Has the new guide made it to any of the shops yet? I'd love to take it up to the crags with me this afternoon.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
Try The Back Country, Sports Exchange or Granite Chief in Truckee or Alpenglow in Tahoe City. They should have copies in stock.

And...if you ordered from the website, any orders that have not already been shipped should all be in the mail by tomorrow.
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
Jul 13, 2011 - 06:39pm PT

looks great John! Got mine at the Backcountry and some others picked one up at Alpenglow.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 13, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
Will get my hands on mine tonight.... It's in at Alpenglow!
Stoked.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2011 - 03:24am PT
Pop- Sorry to hear you think there are any inconsistencies. I am sure no guide book is absolutely perfect, but....16 years of very intense effort went into trying to make this guidebook the most accurate guidebook possible, with many dozens of the most historically influential climbers of the North Tahoe region reviewing it for accuracy.
A couple of words spelled wrong and a numbering inconsistency for the River Rock and Big Chief Crags (which were discovered by the author, and painstakingly hand edited, before any went out)are so far the only "inconsistencies" known/reported on this 476 page, full color guidebook.

(errors/additions/feedback on the guide can be sent from the feedback form at the camp4press.com website, where the book can be bought as well)

Minor errors would not be completely unheard of for a guidebook covering about 1,300 routes (Most all of which I personally climbed, or inspected for the ones beyond my ability to free climb, during the past 29 years of climbing and living in the area) and put together over a 16 year period (many, many errors were corrected from the previous guidebook by interviewing so many of the original fa teams)

Be sure to read the "HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK" section to get the most out of the guide, even if you have owned a hundred other guidebooks.

I sure would be interested how everyone else who has bought a copy feels about the effort and quality of this new guidebook (especially those that are known/respected in the local climbing community). If you have used or read it and thought it was well done, and believe the previous post does not do it justice, please post up.


Edit- Maybe the previous poster thought that some of the hand editing for the numbering inconsistency on the River Rock and Big Chief crags were done by the guy he borrowed the book from, which might make sense. Anyway, hope that is what he is talking about.

Thanks

John Jackson
thetennisguy

Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
Jul 20, 2011 - 11:16am PT
I've been waiting for this book for over a year, since I first heard that it was in the works (on Supertopo). Nice job, John. Got a peek at it a week ago up at Donner at the AAC climb. Ordered one the minute I got home. Received it this week and, well, all I can say is ... awesome job, it's completely worth it! And thank you for putting this out there! One other thing ... can't wait for the next one to come out that Paul Bernard is working on!

Best regards to you guys!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
Now that the new North Tahoe-Donner-Reno guidebook has been out for over a month; how bout some reports of getting out to some of the "new" spots and what you thought? Would luv to hear some stories and what you saw and think.
Cheers.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Bump....

Out of curiosty to hear that someone made it out (and had some new adventures) to some of the previously long "under the radar" crags in the new guidebook. Any of the "new" areas see much traffic this season, or maybe some new routes? Spent most of my time this season taking a much needed break staying away from the crags in the North Tahoe guidebook (and had fun climbing new places for a change) so didn't get out to see if the formerly obscure crags around here saw noticeably increased exploration. Any photos?
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 8, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
Hey John-

The book is great as are the new areas it guides us to.

Thanks again for all the beta...

Cheers, Brian
Rocman

Trad climber
Reno,NV
Dec 23, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
China 40 bucks
Rocman

Trad climber
Reno,NV
Feb 16, 2012 - 10:55am PT
65 mistakes and counting,plus the ink you used is rubbing off.?I want my money back
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Feb 16, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
65 mistakes and counting,plus the ink you used is rubbing off.?I want my money back

Better user it fast!!!!!

I love the new areas, but I agree, for 40 bucks it could have been a bit more quality.

Bought the Southern Nevada bouldering guide for the same price and it's amazing. Full color, hi rez.
Outside

Trad climber
Truckee
Feb 16, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
Mogul should be deleted from the guide. It has serious access issues and is on private property.
Plus its a piece of chit.

AND bolts are showing up all over the place right next to perfect cracks ect...

Lame!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Rocman:

Regarding mistakes: There was a numbering mistake, (off by one number) at River Rock and Big Chief. These were discovered and hand corrected BEFORE A SINGLE COPY was distributed. Only a single first ascent listing has been reported to me as being wrong. (Eric Pearlman reported on a route he claims to not have done, even though someone claimed to have done the first ascent with him)

I take mistakes very, VERY SERIOUSLY. The guidebook was a huge, 16 year long community effort to document 1,300 routes, and was reviewed by many, many prominent long time local climbers for accuracy. ROCMAN....Were you one of the many that I interviewed for this book? If not, maybe I should have since you seem to have so much exclusive information....I say that seriously and with respect.

I seriously doubt the printing ink is rubbing off. IF any ink is rubbing off it would only be these two hand corrected numberings (all in a continous series due to being off by a single number)

The printer used is probably the largest printer of color climbing guidebooks in the US, used exclusively by a number of the biggest climbing guidebook publishers out there. (Yes they are printed in China (Hong Kong), by a US company) Probably 99% of, large run, color books are printed offshore, by US companies, because they cost 2-3 times as much here. (Which is really unfortunate) Also, the paper stock is of the highest quaility available.

On the website (camp4press.com) is a page for reporting additions/mistakes with the guidebook. All, verified, mistakes are reported on the website there. Other than some obvious grammer mistakes NOT A SINGLE mistake has been noted on a SINGLE ROUTE (seven months after distribution) by anyone. (LOTS of positive feedback however)



I am sure that there are probably mistakes, as every guidebook is bound to have, and I would encourage you to use the feedback page on the website so that we can continue to update the information in the database for climbing in the region, and include it in future editions.

Thanks

John Jackson

adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Very lame to hear of additional bolts at Mogul. Mogul is mostly a, short, top-route crag that has been used for decades by Reno climbers.

As far as removing areas from the guidebook: The LARGEST SINGLE PURPOSE of doing this (LOCALS GUIDE) guidebook was for documenting EVERY SINGLE ROUTE EVER done (that we could discover) in the region for the express purpose of preserving the climbing history and preventing bolting over of existing routes. (Retro bolting should be chopped) They were all included, the good, the bad, and the ugly. The idea for the book started as an effort to create a permanent data base for preserving the history of climbing in the area, then evolved into a comprehensive guidebook. ( I have files, files and more files of information provided to me, in adition to having climbed a majority of the routes in the guidebook within my ability, over the past 29 years of climbing/living in the area)

adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
Thanks Ron!

I have tough skin fortunately, though it is still good to hear confirmation from the long timers (notice I did not say oldtimers, lol) such as yourself.

The most important thing is to continue to document the routes, and history, accurately. If it takes having some mud slung at me, thats ok.

Cheers. :)


John
Outside

Trad climber
Truckee
Feb 16, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
Cool

Then go down to Mogul and crawl through the chain link fence with NO Trespassing signs and chop the bolts that some kid put in at his newly discovered crag.

Oh might as well go over to Mountain Project too and tell those teenagers all there 5' FA's aren't FA's.

Thanks
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