You asked for it! - How many ascents?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 43 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
NEVERGIVEIN

Boulder climber
Sequim
Jun 24, 2014 - 09:56am PT
I just have to respond, John and I made the first accent. We did this run out on purpose because of all th bolting going on at the time. I'm glad it's scary, nothing is as good as fear to sport with.
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Oct 14, 2015 - 09:14am PT
This route is very good and very dangerous, more so than the BY. There is ledge fall potential for much of pitch one over hard climbing. That's followed by horrendously runout and insecure slab climbing on pitches 2 and 3 (pitch 2 in particular). Judging by the amount of dirt and moss I excavated from the hole on pitch 3, it hadn't been climbed in awhile. It's all cleaned up now, go get it. Many thanks to Drew Rollins, Greg Barnes and and Karin Wuhrman for the updated hardware. Oh, I almost forgot, 5.10 my ass.

G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2015 - 10:35am PT
Nice. Congratulations!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Oct 14, 2015 - 10:49am PT
Jeeze Jon, when you put your mind to something you don't mess around. First the BY then this. Inspirational focus.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 14, 2015 - 11:53am PT
John.... nice send.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss On the End of a Wet Fist
Oct 14, 2015 - 11:56am PT
Now I remembered: Doug Nidever did it with Ed Barry. Perhaps the 2nd or 3rd ascent.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 14, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
The name of this route always fascinated me. In the mid-1950's, there was a television show named "You Asked For It," and one of the episodes was my first exposure to real rock climbing. I still remember watching someone aiding over an overhang, but I've never seen a repeat of the show, and I was in kindergarten or first grade when I saw that episode. I would love to see it again to see if it in any way resembles my memory of it.

John
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 14, 2015 - 02:34pm PT


But Anastasia explained the origin of the route name in a 2011 thread:
John set that up after getting hassled for using hooks on the Bachar Yerian, hence the name "You asked for it." He did it without hooks and yes... Sand bagged it for added measure.
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Oct 14, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
Thanks guys. These routes simultaneously represent onsight climbing at it's best, and potentially it's worst.

Walleye, according to the "Path of the Master" article by Alan Nelson, Alan and Rob Oravetz did the second.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 14, 2015 - 02:54pm PT
You Asked for It
1. 7/1981 John Bachar, Ron Peers (NEVERGIVEIN - see post above)
2. 1983 Alan Nelson, Rob Oravetz http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/645388/Path-of-the-Master-1984-Alan-Nelson-AAJ-article
3. 1983 Steve Schneider, Dana Hauser http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1394438/Dean-I-couldnt-find-it
3 or 4? Ed Barry, Doug Nidever
5? Scott Cosgrove
6-14? Mike Waugh, partners, 6-9 times, once a year, bad fall last time on it
15? 1988 Greg Murphy, Jeff Webb
16? 1990 John Strand, Karl Mallmen
17? 1999 Dean Rosnau, Leah Rosnau
18? 2003 Drew Rollins, Karin Wurhmann, Greg Barnes (bolt replacement)
19? 2015 Jon Clark, Nancy Joseph
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Oct 14, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
Clint,

My partner was Nancy Joseph. She followed in good style with no falls.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 14, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
4-12? Mike Waugh, partners, bad fall last time on it
Mike told me about that route..G_gnome showed me the route..

no thank you!
Cragman

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, California....via the Damascus Road
Oct 14, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
I did the route with my wife, Leah, in 1999.
Cragman

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, California....via the Damascus Road
Oct 14, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
I'll try to dig up some pics....I shot slides back then, and all that shizz got packed in boxes when we moved a few months ago.

By the way....no falls for Leah or I....but GOBS of near loss of sphincter capability.
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Oct 14, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
I'll try to dig up some pics....

Looking forward to it, I love this stuff.

PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
Oct 14, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
Nice work to all involved with ascending this line. Soooo much respect. So many flavors of style involved within world of 'rock climbing'. This one happens to be an art form.
Cragman

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, California....via the Damascus Road
Oct 14, 2015 - 07:37pm PT
The thing is run-out, but the climbing is REALLY quality. I have to admit though....I had to do a REAL good job of hiding my nerves when she would get to the belays.

We actually had a closer call when we did Apparition together....over on Daff.

There is one bolt on the second pitch....WAY off the belay. I simply could not spot it. I was about 15 or 20 feet below the horizontal crack system near the top of the pitch, and about to commit to going for it, even though the face got exponentially thinner and more challenging.

Over and over again, I chalked up...re-set my feet.....trying to steel my nerves. After about ten minutes of this, and about to go for it, I happened to look down and caught the sun glinting off the bolt hanger....30 feet below and 20 feet left.

I downclimbed and clipped that sucker.

Damn happy I did too, as when I went back up, that last bit was REALLY sporty. I pulled it off fine...but sure was happy to have that bolt below.

After the descent, we ran into Flanders over at the grill and told him about our experience. He shared that he was over there climbing Crescent Arch, and watched a guy on Apparition do the EXACT thing I had....miss that bolt. He went for it.....went flying past his belayer...and grounded.

Flanders was first on scene. All those years later, and he still couldn't talk about it.

Leah and I just cringed.....YIKES!!!!
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
Oct 14, 2015 - 08:04pm PT
Cragman....good stuff!! Glad you made it happen ;-)
Friend

climber
Oct 14, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
WAY RAD!
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Nov 3, 2015 - 08:21pm PT

You asked for it ! That was the real deal, a Bacher nightmare. The climbing was not "that hard", but the run outs were very serious ! When I did it Ed had just completed the route and agreed to belay me as I lead the route. The pitch I remember very well is the 3rd pitch, 150 long, one piece of gear, a number 3 Friend half way up the pitch, and the crux move was the last move of the route where you must grab a knob with a crack in it. I remember winning at that point, then I heard Ed from below, "You Asked for It"
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