You asked for it! - How many ascents?

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G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2009 - 01:55am PT
So as great as the Bachar-Yerian is, it seems to have far more ascents than 'You asked for it'. Has anyone here done 'You asked for it'? How many ascents has it had? Bad ass route for sure.

I once led Tune Up and decided that was as close to the real thing as I ever wanted to get. Who's done that great route? It has some of the best and most sustained mid 10 climbing I have ever done. But those 40' runs get to you...
apogee

climber
Jul 10, 2009 - 02:12am PT
Bump for JB
Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 10, 2009 - 02:29am PT
Think that Mike Waugh has done it more often than anyone else, and he fell in the wrong place once (pushed back, missed the ledge, and got pretty banged up).

Followed Drew "The Iceman" up it when we replaced the bolts. He led with a 3/8" bolt kit, thin piton, and tuning fork, and he would replace one anchor bolt, belay Karin up, fix a line for me, and I'd replace the pro bolts, then the other anchor bolt once he had a good one at the next belay. Here are a few pics:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=866820&msg=867977#msg867977

On the way down we also replaced the right hand variation first pitch (Free For All?), wonder how many ascents that has had?

Speaking of JB and the Iceman - who else has done Solitary Confinement?
S.Powers

Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
Jul 10, 2009 - 07:14am PT
Post bump to get rid of the A-hole Onyx!
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
Greg, where is Solitary Confinement?

Waugh has done 'You asked for it' 7 or 8 times I think. He cracked his skull pretty good when he whipped off the thing. He said he never should have been up there that day because it was too hot.
Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 10, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
Didn't know he'd cracked his skull. After that accident, didn't his little kid utter the famous-in-TM quote: "My daddy asked for it - and he got it!"

Solitary Confinement is on Fairview Dome, the next streak right of Magical Mystery Tour. Then the next 2 streaks are JB routes he did roped (both low 5.10 R/X) the year after Solitary Confinement - maybe he figured one was enough and the next two looked harder!
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Jul 10, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
I'll never forget when Waugh's son at the age of like 9 or 10 announced to me in the Grill parking lot, "My Dad asked for it...and he got it!"


*edit* Heh beat by Barnes.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 10, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
Alan Nelson might have done Solitary Confinement?
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Jul 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
Among all the Bachar-Yerian threads, I couldn't find anywhere that took a guess at how many ascents it's had. I'd be curious as to what people's guesses might be on that.

I was afraid of it for a long time, finally got up the nerve and led it, and then realized it wasn't as bad as I had made it out to be. That process would lead me to the think that it's probably been done a lot more than we might guess.

Sorry for the thread drift, but it's somewhat related to the OP's first comment...
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
The B-Y gets done quite a bit. I know Martin the crazy Chek did it at least twice one summer.

I know that Waugh had 7 or 8 of the 11 ascents of 'You asked for it' when he quit doing it. I don't know of anyone other than Drew doing it since then, although I would imagine it has been done by a few people since then.
Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 10, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
I think Alan Nelson and partner did You Asked For It pretty early, and then tried to do the 2nd of BY, but backed off the BY.

The tat was pretty old on the anchors when we replaced, but that's a huge water streak, so who knows how old they really were - and besides if you top out you wouldn't replace the webbing.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 10, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
Bachar told me that he was in the middle of Soloing Solitary Confinement when, in the middle of a sequence, noted that he was committed to a knob that was about to break.

I wouldn't recommend anybody follow in those footsteps

Peace

Karl
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Feb 7, 2014 - 10:42am PT
So has this really only seen 11 or so ascents?

Bachar and Ron Peers
Alan Nelson and Rob Oravetz
Mike Waugh w/ various partners 7 or 8 times
Drew Rollins w/ Greg Barnes and Karin Wuhrman (replaced bolts)

From what I've read, you're back in the ledge fall zone before clipping the second bolt on the first pitch, yes?
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
Jeff Webb and I did it - maybe sometime around 1988. Sporty!
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
That's cool. Do you remember if you can hit the ledge if you blow it going to the second bolt?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:57pm PT
Doug Nidever's done it.. I don't remember who he did it with.
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
Feb 7, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
Did it in '90 with the late Karl Mallmen after we failed on BY. Rather run out i would say, but really good climbing
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
I thought you could hit the ground going for the second bolt!
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
Feb 7, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
i would agree with that !! it feels like you could deck from almost anywhere at times
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
I drank a six pack after climbing that route to calm the adrenaline twitch.
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