You asked for it! - How many ascents?

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G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2009 - 01:55am PT

So as great as the Bachar-Yerian is, it seems to have far more ascents than 'You asked for it'. Has anyone here done 'You asked for it'? How many ascents has it had? Bad ass route for sure.

I once led Tune Up and decided that was as close to the real thing as I ever wanted to get. Who's done that great route? It has some of the best and most sustained mid 10 climbing I have ever done. But those 40' runs get to you...

apogee

climber

Jul 10, 2009 - 02:12am PT

Bump for JB

Greg Barnes

climber

Jul 10, 2009 - 02:29am PT

Think that Mike Waugh has done it more often than anyone else, and he fell in the wrong place once (pushed back, missed the ledge, and got pretty banged up).

Followed Drew "The Iceman" up it when we replaced the bolts. He led with a 3/8" bolt kit, thin piton, and tuning fork, and he would replace one anchor bolt, belay Karin up, fix a line for me, and I'd replace the pro bolts, then the other anchor bolt once he had a good one at the next belay. Here are a few pics:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=866820&msg=867977#msg867977

On the way down we also replaced the right hand variation first pitch (Free For All?), wonder how many ascents that has had?

Speaking of JB and the Iceman - who else has done Solitary Confinement?

S.Powers

Social climber

Jtree, now in Alaska

Jul 10, 2009 - 07:14am PT

Post bump to get rid of the A-hole Onyx!

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 02:34pm PT

Greg, where is Solitary Confinement?

Waugh has done 'You asked for it' 7 or 8 times I think. He cracked his skull pretty good when he whipped off the thing. He said he never should have been up there that day because it was too hot.

Greg Barnes

climber

Jul 10, 2009 - 02:39pm PT

Didn't know he'd cracked his skull. After that accident, didn't his little kid utter the famous-in-TM quote: "My daddy asked for it - and he got it!"

Solitary Confinement is on Fairview Dome, the next streak right of Magical Mystery Tour. Then the next 2 streaks are JB routes he did roped (both low 5.10 R/X) the year after Solitary Confinement - maybe he figured one was enough and the next two looked harder!

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Arid-zona

Jul 10, 2009 - 02:47pm PT

I'll never forget when Waugh's son at the age of like 9 or 10 announced to me in the Grill parking lot, "My Dad asked for it...and he got it!"

*edit* Heh beat by Barnes.

socalbolter

Sport climber

Silverado, CA

Jul 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT

Among all the Bachar-Yerian threads, I couldn't find anywhere that took a guess at how many ascents it's had. I'd be curious as to what people's guesses might be on that.

I was afraid of it for a long time, finally got up the nerve and led it, and then realized it wasn't as bad as I had made it out to be. That process would lead me to the think that it's probably been done a lot more than we might guess.

Sorry for the thread drift, but it's somewhat related to the OP's first comment...

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 06:13pm PT

The B-Y gets done quite a bit. I know Martin the crazy Chek did it at least twice one summer.

I know that Waugh had 7 or 8 of the 11 ascents of 'You asked for it' when he quit doing it. I don't know of anyone other than Drew doing it since then, although I would imagine it has been done by a few people since then.

Greg Barnes

climber

Jul 10, 2009 - 06:22pm PT

I think Alan Nelson and partner did You Asked For It pretty early, and then tried to do the 2nd of BY, but backed off the BY.

The tat was pretty old on the anchors when we replaced, but that's a huge water streak, so who knows how old they really were - and besides if you top out you wouldn't replace the webbing.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Jul 10, 2009 - 06:28pm PT

Bachar told me that he was in the middle of Soloing Solitary Confinement when, in the middle of a sequence, noted that he was committed to a knob that was about to break.

I wouldn't recommend anybody follow in those footsteps

Peace

Karl

Jon Clark

climber

philadelphia

Feb 7, 2014 - 10:42am PT

So has this really only seen 11 or so ascents?

Bachar and Ron Peers
Alan Nelson and Rob Oravetz
Mike Waugh w/ various partners 7 or 8 times
Drew Rollins w/ Greg Barnes and Karin Wuhrman (replaced bolts)

From what I've read, you're back in the ledge fall zone before clipping the second bolt on the first pitch, yes?

G Murphy

Trad climber

Oakland CA

Feb 7, 2014 - 01:40pm PT

Jeff Webb and I did it - maybe sometime around 1988. Sporty!

Jon Clark

climber

philadelphia

Feb 7, 2014 - 03:20pm PT

That's cool. Do you remember if you can hit the ledge if you blow it going to the second bolt?

slabbo

Trad climber

colo south

Feb 7, 2014 - 06:00pm PT

Did it in '90 with the late Karl Mallmen after we failed on BY. Rather run out i would say, but really good climbing

G Murphy

Trad climber

Oakland CA

Feb 7, 2014 - 06:26pm PT

I thought you could hit the ground going for the second bolt!

slabbo

Trad climber

colo south

Feb 7, 2014 - 06:27pm PT

i would agree with that !! it feels like you could deck from almost anywhere at times

G Murphy

Trad climber

Oakland CA

Feb 7, 2014 - 07:32pm PT

I drank a six pack after climbing that route to calm the adrenaline twitch.

NEVERGIVEIN

Boulder climber

Sequim

Jun 24, 2014 - 09:56am PT

I just have to respond, John and I made the first accent. We did this run out on purpose because of all th bolting going on at the time. I'm glad it's scary, nothing is as good as fear to sport with.

Jon Clark

climber

philadelphia

Oct 14, 2015 - 09:14am PT

This route is very good and very dangerous, more so than the BY. There is ledge fall potential for much of pitch one over hard climbing. That's followed by horrendously runout and insecure slab climbing on pitches 2 and 3 (pitch 2 in particular). Judging by the amount of dirt and moss I excavated from the hole on pitch 3, it hadn't been climbed in awhile. It's all cleaned up now, go get it. Many thanks to Drew Rollins, Greg Barnes and and Karin Wuhrman for the updated hardware. Oh, I almost forgot, 5.10 my ass.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Cali

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2015 - 10:35am PT

Nice. Congratulations!

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Oct 14, 2015 - 10:49am PT

Jeeze Jon, when you put your mind to something you don't mess around. First the BY then this. Inspirational focus.

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Oct 14, 2015 - 11:53am PT

John.... nice send.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 14, 2015 - 02:24pm PT

The name of this route always fascinated me. In the mid-1950's, there was a television show named "You Asked For It," and one of the episodes was my first exposure to real rock climbing. I still remember watching someone aiding over an overhang, but I've never seen a repeat of the show, and I was in kindergarten or first grade when I saw that episode. I would love to see it again to see if it in any way resembles my memory of it.

John

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 14, 2015 - 02:34pm PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

But Anastasia explained the origin of the route name in a 2011 thread:

John set that up after getting hassled for using hooks on the Bachar Yerian, hence the name "You asked for it." He did it without hooks and yes... Sand bagged it for added measure.

Jon Clark

climber

philadelphia

Oct 14, 2015 - 02:39pm PT

Thanks guys. These routes simultaneously represent onsight climbing at it's best, and potentially it's worst.

Walleye, according to the "Path of the Master" article by Alan Nelson, Alan and Rob Oravetz did the second.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 14, 2015 - 02:54pm PT

You Asked for It
1. 7/1981 John Bachar, Ron Peers (NEVERGIVEIN - see post above)
2. 1983 Alan Nelson, Rob Oravetz http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/645388/Path-of-the-Master-1984-Alan-Nelson-AAJ-article
3. 1983 Steve Schneider, Dana Hauser http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1394438/Dean-I-couldnt-find-it
3 or 4? Ed Barry, Doug Nidever
5? Scott Cosgrove
6-14? Mike Waugh, partners, 6-9 times, once a year, bad fall last time on it
15? 1988 Greg Murphy, Jeff Webb
16? 1990 John Strand, Karl Mallmen
17? 1999 Dean Rosnau, Leah Rosnau
18? 2003 Drew Rollins, Karin Wurhmann, Greg Barnes (bolt replacement)
19? 2015 Jon Clark, Nancy Joseph

Jon Clark

climber

philadelphia

Oct 14, 2015 - 03:17pm PT

Clint,

My partner was Nancy Joseph. She followed in good style with no falls.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Oct 14, 2015 - 03:28pm PT

4-12? Mike Waugh, partners, bad fall last time on it

Mike told me about that route..G_gnome showed me the route..

no thank you!

Jon Clark

climber

philadelphia

Oct 14, 2015 - 07:04pm PT

I'll try to dig up some pics....

Looking forward to it, I love this stuff.

Friend

climber

Oct 14, 2015 - 09:36pm PT

WAY RAD!

Flanders!

Trad climber

June Lake, CA

Nov 3, 2015 - 08:21pm PT

You asked for it ! That was the real deal, a Bacher nightmare. The climbing was not "that hard", but the run outs were very serious ! When I did it Ed had just completed the route and agreed to belay me as I lead the route. The pitch I remember very well is the 3rd pitch, 150 long, one piece of gear, a number 3 Friend half way up the pitch, and the crux move was the last move of the route where you must grab a knob with a crack in it. I remember winning at that point, then I heard Ed from below, "You Asked for It"

ryankelly

Trad climber

Bhumi

Nov 3, 2015 - 10:28pm PT

My buddy who lives on the Eastside did it. Said the name was accurate.

I had never heard of it so I thought he was just blowing smoke. Now I see the truth