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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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May 27, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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Correct Grammar Please!!
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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May 27, 2009 - 10:50pm PT
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How about using a saw to cut down a tree near the bottom of a route because you fall into it?
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 27, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
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Done that.
Not good.
Ain't never gonna do it again.
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jstan
climber
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May 27, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
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No one should ever believe their simple amusement trumps the intentions of the parties who pay taxes every year to support the land.
Surely this one rule has to exist?
Would it not exist if the shoe were on the other foot?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 27, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
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Who cares what AlDude thinks or says or does?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 28, 2009 - 02:40am PT
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I care what AlDude has to say;....he's a climber, a musician, and my friend;.....sure;...he likes to play
Devil's advocate, he likes to stir the pot, and he likes to " debate" climbing ideals and styles.....he does FA's and tries to do them in good style........I often disagree with him over all sorts of things...but I still listen and banter in a friendly and open manner......he's The Dude.....what else can I say?.......and Dude-like behavior and Dude-like opinions are expected and usually delivered......he's contributed alot to the climbing community and the music scene too.......let me repeat;....he's The Dude........
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jul 26, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
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Anti-chipping bump.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:58pm PT
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Nicely bumped you guys, I started out thinking this was an extension of the recent shuteye thread, but its more than two years old. Same guy, still at it. SSDD
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 28, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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FreeCoffee
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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The chipping, bolting, aggressive cleaning tactics, and vegetation damage in Joshua Tree's wilderness has not gone unnoticed by the park service.
For anyone looking to put a new route up in JT, please think twice - you are permanently altering the rock and impacting the area around the crag. There are already over 8,000 established routes here - get to know the style and ethics of JT before imposing your own.
If you have any questions about the rules and regulations regarding fixed anchors and bolts in Joshua Tree National Park, please email me, come to Climbers Coffee or check the website.
http://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/climbing.htm
JT Climbing Ranger
Bernadette
bernadette_regan@nps.gov
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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As was posted upthread, I think there's a big difference between enhancing holds in good quality rock in a popular area, and agressive cleaning shitty rock in an unpopular area.
I don't do a lot of FA's around here, but god forbid you all eve see the stuff we do to our shattered basalt. I don't glue any holds on ever but for damn certain I'll clean the heck out of boulder problems and routes usually involving large killer flakes. The rock quality is so poor at times you'd be taking death falls or dropping rock on your belayer (and yes I've seen it happen and even had it take chunks out of my helmet).
To add holds to any route is poor style, but to clean off stuff that wouldn't last a day (mostly just comes off with nut tool) is ok at least in my area.
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inyoupyos
climber
California
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The message remains clear: minimize our impacts, police ourselves discreetly, or else risk losing our priviledges and blow it for everyone.
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jstan
climber
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Is anyone able to provide a list of the areas in which there has been active gluing and chipping? Everyone would be interested in knowing this.
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natureischaos
Boulder climber
Yosemite
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May 23, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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So Grahms been bolting out at Jackass Rocks, wonder what his ethics have been recently, I read something on his fb page about digging out a terrace? Dus he have ocd or is he trying to conquer nature. He likes to keep his "new areas" secret so others can't send his projects. I don't see the need to clean a terrace I mean if I did that on some Yosemite classic routes I'd be burned at the stake! Just because "the balls" are out side the park doesn't mean he has the right to disturb the progress of nature just so he can have a gory day. Just my thoughts, but who am I to Judge?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 23, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
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Yup. These old classics get hacked with the new purge code.
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