Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Reporter
Trad climber
behind your back
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
|
On the loose!!fullnames to be diclosed soon + damage report!
Gram Doe
Mike mathison
brent
and some other guy.
Chipping routes on clean granite!
shut eye ridge!
Chipping and drilling pockets!acton area
Punch bowl.
Big bear areas. out of control!
should be shot.
Those guys cant climb very well so they gotta chop it down to there level! Truly a bunch of chicken s&^losers!
ban them from climbing! Pull up a chair This is just the begining to the opening to the gates of hell for the chipping crews! Bolts will be pulled!
New report Cuiquito dome!
Fully chiped 12b rapbolted sport by no other than Mr Doe!
Why are all his routes 12's I guess he just can get past that # ha ha ha!
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
|
Hmmmmmmm,
pulls up a chair......
Expecting well over 100 uninformed rants soon to follow from people who have no knowledge of the area, the people who climb there or the routes. Just like me, except I'll be quiet as this might even just be a lie from an anonymous dude with an axe to grind.
Hoping for some real facts here....but this is the internet....
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
|
This ought to be good!
|
|
dirtbag
climber
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
|
yeah!
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
|
Is this the same Grahm that was riding a snowmobil up at Shuteye? Please ladies ride sidesaddle, we can see your pettycoats!!!
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
|
Reporter - great first post!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
|
ooooooo, Goody!
(Rubs hands together...)
Who knows more about this?
Reporter, details? Proof? Photos?
Dirty Laundry wants to know!
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
|
It's hard for me to buy into a thread where the poster is obviously straining to remain anonymous while he names everyone else in the wrong. Spill it, but go mano a mano.
"French sometimes use this expression in a blend of the Portuguese and Spanish meaning. “Donner quelque chose de mano a mano” means to give something to someone in person, with direct physical contact (as opposed to using an intermediary, be it a common friend, a phone call or an e-mail)." wikipedia
That's how John Wayne woulda done it.
Otherwise you're just attacting flies...
|
|
Loomis
climber
*_*
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
|
I have heard that routes Ron Carson and I established, have now been "enhanced" as well... Fúck!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
|
I agree - kinda BS to name names yet hide yourself. Seems a little chicken sh#t.
Further if you going to 'report' on something then do it. State the facts have some pictures, etc. What routes? Show me some pictures of the chipped holds. Don't just toss a load of slander out there.
kev
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
|
> New report Cuiquito dome!
> Fully chiped 12b rapbolted sport by no other than Mr Doe!
How new? This sounds more like Gold Standard (at Chiquito Dome), which had one chipped hold in 2007 and was not Grahm's route.
"Fully chiped" suggests several chipped holds. I'm not saying one chipped hold is good, but you should be more careful with your credibility if you are serious.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
|
Wow, blowing things a little out of proportion are we?
I have nothing to hide. Yes there are some chipped holds on two routes of mine at Acton. The rock is over hanging crumbling crap. Half of it falls off from cleaning. Is that chipping? I dug out some mud pockets, big deal. Go ahead and shoot me. There is not any glue.
Who are you to rain down judgement on others? The vast majority of my routes are all natural. I can give an honest accounting of any of my routes if you want it. Name the route...
You are pretty ill informed about Shuteye as well. Have you even climbed there? Stop hiding behind "informer" if you want to slander me at least give me the pleasure of knowing your name.
Not that it matters but I can climb 13d. Yes, I have video to prove it...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
|
Medusa, you never chopped any of my routes. That was someone elses route. I never chipped anything at Devils Punchbowl. In fact I have seen you on video spraying about how much you love the "Cracker" on hidden wall. Thats one of mine.
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
|
Grahm,
What routes have chipped holds at Shuteye and who chipped them?
|
|
nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
|
who brought beer?
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
|
This will start a whole new debate, but define chipping. If I clean a route of loose rock, is that chipping? If I knock off a rocking hold that will blow off after a couple ascents, is that chipping? What if I round off the edges so I don't cut open my finger every time I climb it? Or do I have to bust out a chisel?
To me, chipping is when you make a route easier so you can climb it.
Hold on, I'm getting a beer...
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
|
Nature,
I always bring beer.
Tom,
Always start with a beer - it isn't just for breakfast anymore!
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
|
Beer and popcorn sound pretty good about now...
Out of over 50 routes I have done in Shuteye 2 have 1 or 2 enhanced features. I have a 12d on Chiquito that has two enhanced features through an unclimbable section. I thought this was better than having an aid bolt. The enhancing is minimal and is as "natural" as possible working with the features that are there. On the Aerie I have a 13a/b that has a created slot in a seam. Again through an unclimbable section. I thought one enhanced hold was worth the sacrifice to link up a killer line through some big roofs. If it can be climbed without it I will fill it in and camouflage it but I highly doubt it.
I won't comment on the handful of other routes that have some enhancing because they are not my routes. I love natural routes and avoid chipping as much as possible. I have walked away from many climbs that I found out after cleaning wouldn't go. After putting up hundreds of routes on all types of rock I have my own criteria for route development. I think cleaning, wire brushing, removing loose rock and snapping off hollow flakes is acceptable if it makes for a better line. Try a bunch of my routes and let me know what you think. Most people like them.
The 12b at Chiquito has 3 or 4 snapped thin flakes that left square cuts. I climbed it before but thought it would be better with the flakes gone. It did make it easier but I also think its better. I wouldn't call the whole thing chipped for that.
I know everyone won't agree with my decisions but based on my experience I make the best choices I can.
PS I also put up routes on lead, ground up and with no pre inspection. So there...
|
|
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
|
I almost free climbed the West Face of the Sentinel once. I couldn't do it - there was one move that stopped me.
There was one feature I could have "enhanced" and the move would have gone. I left it as it stands for someone better than I to free someday....
Enhancing/chipping is the same as aid climbing.... you just can't see the point of aid so easily.
It's easier and cleaner to remove an aid bolt than to un-do some chipping.
Just a thought, jb
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
May 21, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
|
If I can't "clean" a new route with a nut tool or whatever is in my pocket that day, the hold stays. If it breaks while I (or anyone else) is climbing it, then the flake/hold was not meant to stay.
Taking off huge chunks for safety is another matter, and other means may be employed--still, one has to question if it is worth the rock desecration that ensues.
I would like to have the style/skills of JB, but I learned to (put up) climb(s) in relative isolation without any ethics police to aid in my discretion, so I may be a bit jaded.
Luckily, there is way more rock around here than climbers, so if you don't like my ways--find your own dam rock(s) and do it your way.
Heavily poplulated/trafficked areas do not have the same luxury, and as such, come under intense scrutiny as observed in this thread. Good luck keeping the peace.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!