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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 14, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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LOL Jay.
I can just see him jugging out the slack without clipping to the ascenders only to slip and have the rope slingshot his rig onto a ledge 200' up.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 14, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
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Erik,
one important item is common sense.
If only it wasn't an oxymoron.
If you are looking for a formula, look elsewhere.
There are natural leaders, and there are people who never should.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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May 14, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
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Did someone page me? Hello...
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SUPERTOPO
climber
SUPERTOPO
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May 14, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
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Piton Ron I assume your a natural leader?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 14, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Hardly.
I had to learn to crawl before I could walk (and followed for 6 years before attempting to lead).
But I have been climbing for 41 years and became AMGA certified in the first group 19 years ago.
You?
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Ron, can't we all just get along?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 14, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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Apparently not, but sock puppets don't carry much clout on the taco even if they name themselves for it.
Poseur.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 14, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
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Ron! You have been trolled by a nameless, faceless and dickless detractor who created this [fake] user name for the sole purpose of replying to this post. His only three posts are on this thread.
Have a beer, dude. Chill... Not worth the effort. Save it for someone real.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 14, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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Already knew that Pete.
Sock puppets emit fart gas.
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WBraun
climber
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May 14, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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Tune in on "The Fall Factor" on Fox News with your host Piton Ron ......
Yo ho man .....
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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May 14, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
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My $0.02...
Good for you for asking Erik.
But 'ol Piton there does have some good points too...
just don't take 'em personally.
enough from me
Cheers,
DD
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 14, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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A dickless detractor is not a good thing to have. The next thing you know the ones with the dicks will start detracting and you will have to quit the sport.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 14, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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good thing he had a new rope
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Yvergenhauf
Gym climber
UT
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May 14, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
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You should buy a new rope. The economy needs all the help it can get. It couldn't hurt to get a new rack, harness & shoes while you're at it. Your local climbing shop is too big to fail.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 14, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Good rope on top, bad rope on bottom of photo nkgphoto.com(C)2009
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 14, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
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double thumbs up on that above photo.
my guess is 4 out of 5 people that lead don't know what a factor 2 fall is. but my guess also is 99 people out of a 100 know that falling on your belayer 15 feet above them will net not so dandy results.
there's a thing called intuition.... the club doesn't really care if math freaks apply or knott.
I'm just sayin'....
(though for what it's worth I geeked out hard on figuring out things like fall factors, etc... but that was 20+ years ago and I do think we learned things a bit differently than folks do now)
Hmmm.. I wonder when Royal and Warren learned fall factors....
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 14, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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Royal and Warren learned about 'em on that yellow goldline
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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May 14, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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^ ^ ^
My guess is that most newbs who don't know what FF is wouldn't think that falling 5 feet above a belayer (at a hanging belay) is a very, very serious things as compared to falling 5 feet above a bomber piece high on a pitch. I don't know that, just a guess.
To the OP--you should post any similar questions on rockclimbing.com--this site is only good for climbing history and, mostly, political commentary. (On rc.com you will get a mix of stupid responses (attempt to be funny), stupid responses (not attempt to be funny, just stupid) and decent responses--you will need to be able to sort them out.)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
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a 9.2mm, a 70 ft, get a new rope you moron.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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May 14, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
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Relatively low fall factor. If your rope is not damaged visibly or by feel, I would lead on it.
Furthermore: who among you takes repeated short, hard falls on your rope @ the gym or sport crag?
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