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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 14, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
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yeah... #3 post
70/120 =~ .6
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Imagine if your belay was your only piece:
15 feet of rope out you'd fall 30 feet.
30/15 = 2 (bad... very bad... you'd retire that rope immediately - or at the very least you'd chop that 30 feet off and turn it into a nice doggie leash).
And Edit: What BVB said. I mean... did the fall totally rock your world or was it all soft and cushy. the rope felt the same thing as your body.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 14, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
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Erik
One thing that bothers me is about the fuzz you spoke of.
Is it where the rope would have bent over the caribiner
that held you?
(Nature's on the level, been giving you good beta),
I just worry about that fuzzy spot.
If you doubt it, buy another one. You can get a rope for
less than $200.
If you feel safe on it, climb on it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 14, 2009 - 07:17pm PT
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If it seems okay, and you're not chicken, Run It Out! It's like that episode of Sienfeld with Cosmo and the Saab salesman, see how far you can take it!
If you start dreaming, incessantly, about Mark Twight, and a guy a in a hood who wantsta play chess, turn the job over to someone else, and buy yourself a new rope!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 14, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
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Erik do you know the trick where you sort of roll through the rope with a 180 degree bend in the rope? if the core is damage you'll notice because you'll see a noticeable kink.
shoot... this is a difficult concept to relate... way easy to show.
Jaybro: bwaahahaaahaaa... good episode!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 14, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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" this is a difficult concept to relate... way easy to show"
Spoken like a geologist!
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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the fuz was about 10ft or so from my knot( very minor). and yes i did check for flat spots and kinks by running it through my hand while pinching it with my fingers.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 14, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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Erik, no offense, but if you don't even know what a fall factor is what are you doing on the sharp end?
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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Piton Ron,
well its better to ask and get info than remain in the dark about things you should know dont you think? I did not know there were rules as to when you should start trad leading and what exactly you are supposed to know. If you have that list I would love to have a copy of it and I will make sure I know everything on it before I ever lead again.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 14, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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jesus ron i dunno much about fall factors either. just go with my instincts, works for me.
but then i never asked anyone if they thought my rope was any good either. sort of made that decision for myself.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 14, 2009 - 07:37pm PT
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i think he was climbing.
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SUPERTOPO
climber
SUPERTOPO
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May 14, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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Erik, that's funny. Way to go for it and take the whip!
Yeah Ron I want a copy to.
SUPERTOPO
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Jackosnville, Fl
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May 14, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
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If its going to sketch you out then you should toss it.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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Where is this list Ron?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 14, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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I would say that if you don't know that fall FACTOR is at least as important as fall distance then perhaps one had better crack the books (or videos, or take some actual lessons, or at least get knowledgeable friends to show you the ropes) before more leading.
I tell people to follow hundreds of pitches just to learn about placements, but most people are too impatient and cocksure.
I also feel that people shouldn't even FOLLOW climbs unless they know how to counterbalance rappel evacuate a seriously injured leader, but good luck on that one. Most people who consider themselves competent leaders based on hundreds of climbs don't even know how.
Mores the pity.
EDIT
Ha! Judging from the remarks they flunked a mere 2 item list.
Well, you baited. I responded.
SUPERTOPO's laissez faire is what will destroy things for future climbers (bet I know who this persona created just for this is. Whether or not I'm right he is, by definition, a poser).
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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buying a new rope is not really too much of an issue for me. I just really would like to understand what a uiaa fall is. When I read about how they test ropes and what they consider a uiaa fall I really did not understand it. Also how does fall factor come into play in determining how many falls a rope can take?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 14, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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has anyone actually ever heard of a rope BREAKING? i ain't. cutting yes, snapping no.
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SUPERTOPO
climber
SUPERTOPO
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May 14, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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I feel that...
People can and should climb however they want. Including climbing el cap stoned without knowing what a fall factor is (don't most?). Or how to use an ATC. Or rappelling el cap, whatever floats your boat.
I wonder if harding knew what a fall factor was... seriously
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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At least I know what fall factor is now.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 14, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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It is important to know about technical rope issues.... Why, I met this guy once; he had lines fixed up to the shield, all tied together to one anchor, he jugged maybe 300' before he left the ground...
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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piton ron,
If people dont know how to lead after leading 100s of climbs then what does it take to know how to lead?
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