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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:15am PT
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Great stuff people, love those old school pix :-) climbed with the Prices a few times the past 4 weeks in the Valley, Bill is still a bad ass climber! heres a couple pix on Bill and I hanging out a Five & Dime cliff, Bill doing laps on Five & Dime, thanks for sharing happy climbing Mike A.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:17am PT
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:20am PT
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That's NOT "Tales of Power" :-)
Bill's good man and so are you Mike, cheers .....
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:24am PT
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well, that is cool. Had no idea Bill was still climbing. What an incredible climbing resume.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:36am PT
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Anywhere else on earth, that would be an astonishingly great crag.
A pile of otherwise useless block and choss with 1 climbable route? No, it wouldn't. It's only because this thing is in Yosemite that anyone climbs it at all. It's a good and challenging line, for sure, but absolutely everything else about the experience of climbing that thing is mediocre.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:43am PT
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There's another route that starts just a few feet to the left of Tales of Power.
I've done that one too.
JLP, .... who gives a sh!t to what you think.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2019 - 10:03am PT
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Gait of Power (?) IIRC So good you can't even remember it? I have no idea either. Maybe it will be in Ed and Clint's book. I would place Separate as Tales' 2nd pitch. It's basically one climbable line. I'm not dissing the route, I just think it's bizarre to worship every last granite block in the valley. The vast majority are unaesthetic and unclimbable.
"The climbing as a whole is not very aesthetic or enjoyable; it is merely difficult."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2019 - 10:20am PT
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they are in the new guide... see re-edited post above
as for JLP, "nobody knows you're a dog on the internet"
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2019 - 10:50am PT
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Where are all these stars? I'm instantly suspicious of your forthcoming book, but there's also something I could come to like about a plan to add stars to everything. By the time the hords clean out these countless otherwise worthless routes, many likely still waiting for a second ascent, there may in fact be a few more stars of quality discovered.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2019 - 11:11am PT
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I'm instantly suspicious of your forthcoming book
I don't think it's "instantly," you've been "suspicious" for quite a while... woof!
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fosburg
climber
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Jan 24, 2019 - 09:41am PT
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Did Tales have fixed pins back in the day?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 24, 2019 - 10:46am PT
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I caught that also, Kevin, about the fixed pin. I've never even stood beneath the route.
Not that it answers your question, but Yabo told me that he went up there with Kauk a few times, and on one of those occasions Ron sent him up with something like a single number five hex on the rack, essentially setting Yabo up to sacrifice his best effort to get in a high piece, so Ron could go back up on the yo-yo and work it higher still.
Ah ha, tactics of the pecking order!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:33am PT
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The only other crack I can think of that was a worse size for me was Phoenix right after the traverse. Both routes felt horrendous. Back in the day Tobin was terrific with the thin hands stuff. So was Ron. On everything. I swear wiggling hexes into those cracks was harder than climbing them.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:41am PT
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One of the few classic thin hands cracks that I never did back when I climbed a lot in Yosemite. I actually tried it once and it was absolutely crawling with biting ants. My belayer was screaming the whole time. The tree where the belay is was completely covered in them. They were biting me on the route. I hung once about 3/4 of the way up and we hightailed our way out of there. Never made it back...
I regret that.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:58am PT
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It's a size where size matters a lot. 12-something using rings and thumb stacks - a whole lot easier if it's tight hands for you.
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fosburg
climber
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Jan 24, 2019 - 12:30pm PT
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Gait of Power seemed not so easy for the grade. When Lydia and I did it, the jug right after the crux snapped off and I went flying.
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