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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 25, 2015 - 02:18pm PT
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A Great Bump!
The Gunfighter Chalk 'Sacks' Were to allow for a quick dips,
no shrugging the sack across/around the swami, from side to side,
(that, belt seemed to fight the chalk.)
look closely,the chalk' Bag' had yet to be made stiff!
(Might have been ? Kevin Bien, behind that ?)
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Sep 12, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
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what a line!
someone up thread asked if there had been any solos...with all of the solos of separate reality, i was wondering the same thing, anyone know? i'm sure many of you could have done it since it would be easier than trying to lead it with hexes...
bump!
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Mar 27, 2016 - 02:54pm PT
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bump.good stuff.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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May 20, 2017 - 11:17pm PT
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Bump! Tales!! Looks really good
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 21, 2017 - 10:50am PT
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Missed this thread the first time around. Early in it, Mark mentions that he and Max Jones did the second ascent in the fall of 1977, but that may not be correct.
In the spring of 1977, probably in May, Tobin Sorenson repeated the route. He was just home from Europe and his historic 1977 season (August-December) in the Alps, which I wrote about in Alpinist 49. I was there after my first year of law school to do the Salathe with Dick Shockley. Tobin was in training mode--eating only sporadically to keep his weight down--with the goal of doing early repeats of Astroman and Tales of Power at the top of his list. He did both and I remember he celebrated Tales of Power one afternoon by sitting on a rock in Camp 4 and devouring an entire quart of ice cream by himself.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 21, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
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and the climb only gets more legendary... thank you Rick.
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2017 - 05:40pm PT
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A lot of people don't know that Tales of Power crack is where the swifts live.
They live right where the crux is, where the jams are the most difficult.
The swifts fly into the crack and the oil from their feathers makes it extra slippery there.
I belayed Kauk during his first accent attempts except on the actual day he did it.
That day George Meyers belayed him ......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 21, 2017 - 06:22pm PT
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Rick A,
In the spring of 1977, probably in May, Tobin Sorenson repeated the route. He was just home from Europe and his historic 1977 season (August-December) in the Alps I think you meant to say spring of 1978, since it was fall of 1977 when Tobin did those cool climbs (some with you) in the Alps.
He climbed Astroman with David Goeddel in May 1978 - the story and several photos are in this thread, plus mention of Tales of Power.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1856207/Tobin-Sorenson-David-Goeddel-Astroman-May-1978
I have the early Astroman ascents as:
 FFA - John Long, Ron Kauk, John Bachar, 5/75
not a continouous free ascent, but all pitches were freed individually during 2 separate days
one day: Kauk had spied the enduro corner, and went over with Bachar to try it. Bachar led the boulder problem (p3), and then Kauk led the enduro corner (p4) with no falls. This was the first time these pitches had been freed.
another day: Kauk and Bachar returned with Long. They jumared a fixed rope to the top of pitch 4, to get out in front of some parties which were aiding the route. They freed from pitch 5 to the top, with many of these pitches being freed for the first time. Pitch 5 (5.10) had previously been freed by Mead Hargis. John Long had also previously freed pitch 5 and a 5.10d pitch above Changing Corners during a mostly aid ascent.
2nd? FA - Ray Jardine, Vern Clevenger, Spring 1975
1 bivouac
3rd? FA - Ron Kauk, 6/1977
led all pitches; Werner Braun jumared
up to the last pitch by 11am
4th? FA - John Bachar, 6/1977
led all pitches; Rick Piggot jumared
5th? FA - Dale Bard
led all pitches; partner jumared
6th? FA - Max Jones, Mark Hudon, Fall 1977
7th? FA - Tobin Sorenson, 5/1978
led all pitches; David Goeddel jumared, wet conditions
from
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#wash
But Werner was around so he might have a more accurate list than this.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 22, 2017 - 05:38am PT
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Clint,
Whoops!
You're right. It was spring of 1978, not 1977.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2017 - 09:35am PT
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Oddly, I never did Tales Of Power; I never even *tried* it, although I was reliably good with that size range at that length -- I used to run countless laps on Short Circuit and the like, often as not ropeless -- and I had many rope gun friends offer to drag me up it over the years. I think somewhere along the line something about that splitter just stone cold sober psyched me out. I still get butterflies just thinking about it, shaking hands, a real bad ju ju kinda vibe -- which is weird on so many levels, right? I must have done separate reality 6 or 7 times. If anything, it proves the rumors are true: I am a mere human. flawed, neurotic, weak, imperfectly made.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 22, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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^^^ bvb, that pic got the best laugh out of me so far today :)
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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May 22, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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I likely got the ascent of Tales after Tobin, June 1978. I was 16 years old, belayed by Bill Price and Steve Hong. Steve was hanging with us in the Valley that spring to get better at crack climbing. He ended up getting much better soon after! Also did Astroman that Spring of 78 with Leonard Coyne, my high school teachers let me take some finals early so I could get up to the Valley to do that climb.
Still hoping to do both those climbs again sometime in the next year or so...
Peter
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 22, 2017 - 05:12pm PT
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Nice!,, Peter
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
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Yes!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 22, 2017 - 09:14pm PT
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If anything, it proves the rumors are true: I am a mere human. flawed, neurotic, weak, imperfectly made.
Well said bvb . . . true for us all.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 23, 2017 - 05:12am PT
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Thanks Clint, for the Astroman ascent details. Astroman was a huge watershed for free climbing but I wasn't around for the details of subsequent ascents. If I ever dream of a single climb I would want to do if I could, it would be Astroman.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 08:18pm PT
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from way back machine with Tarbuster help restoring The Warbler comments
The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
Aug 22, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
I spotted Tales and showed it to Ron, he doesn't remember it that way, but it's the truth. It was right around the time Meyers and I did Sherry's Crack and Knob Job - Tales is pretty much right above those two, and I was scoping the whole area with binoculars.
I didn't notice Separate Reality, but distinctly remember the thrill of seeing the splitter that was to become Tales of Power hidden in those camouflaging water streaks for the first time.
Unfortunately it was so steep and thin that I just wrote it off after our first attempt on it. Ron, Nick Taylor and I went up there and between the two of them got a rope to the alcove. Nobody could get much farther, but Ron got the highest - and drove a 1 1/4 inch angle at the high point.
Ron kept returning and worked it out, I don't recall how many tries (this was well before Friends) it took, but he finally got it, and in the process discovered and led Separate Reality.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 08:39pm PT
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I have not read the books by Carlos Canstenada, "Tale of Power" and "A Separate Reality".
But, surely someone (Kauk) has read them.
What is in the mind of a climber, when he names a significant first ascent?
The Crack of Doom, surely, evoked the work of J. R. R. Tolkien, for Chuck Pratt.
This post is Off-Topic, to be sure. But, not very far off of the topic.
It is impossible to imagine that those two linked routes were named, coincidentally, by Ron Kauk.
What did Carlos Castenada have to say, to Ron Kauk, that compelled him to suggest that others should read Castenada's work?
By comparison, "Tangerine Trip", "Mescalito" and "Magic Mushroom" are easily scrutinized.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 11:12pm PT
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replaced image, slightly large crop
...there are 8 climbs in this image, two are five star, 4 are 3 star, one one star leaving one without a star...
probably room for more
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 11:44pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Anywhere else on earth, that would be an astonishingly great crag.
In Yosemite?
It's just one of four/six dozen, and probably not near the top of any list.
Such is the magic of Yosemite.
Show up, rope up, and you won't be disappointed.
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