Tales of Power

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Messages 1 - 63 of total 63 in this topic
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
Any one have any pics or stories about this classic?
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Feb 23, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
There's some footage of Kate and Madeleine climbing it in the extras footage on one of those recent films.

GRJ

climber
Juneau AK
Feb 23, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
No pics, but a fantastic story. I agreed to go and try Separate with a guy on the Camp 4 board. He said he had tried that and Tales many times and he was close on both. He had never been on Tales. I ended up battling up the chimney cursing the universe for thinking I could climb valley 12b, then hang dogged up the steep .75-1 crack to the top sweaty angry, then had to explain the fine art of French free to my unknown partner who could barely hear me beneath the overhang. Needless to say, I kleimheisted my way to the street and hitched back to camp.

On a side note, I went to the creek and got on Coyne's Crack, Way Rambo, and several other similar sized cracks and after this current storm I want to head back into the valley and finish it. Amazing line, but VERY physical especially with man hands.
nvrws

climber
Feb 23, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
There was a video several years back called Yosemite Climber.. a swiss guy made the movie and showed it in yosemite for a year or so... Herman Wing from mexico climbs tales and johnny woodward(i think) does separate with a no hands rest over the lip as I recall.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
I have good photos of Max and me on it. My brother took them on rappel. I'll scan some in and post them later on.

the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
I got the onsight of this fab line (tales) in 1985 with Mike Lechinski and Mari took pics. I will dig out those shots soon and post.
It helps to have skinny hands as i did @ the time and also helps to weigh 120 which i no longer do!!

KS
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
thanks folks!
Double D

climber
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
When Bill Price, Augie Klein and I went to work on Tales I just gave up. That size just didn't work for me. Bill was one of the most talented crack climbers I've ever seen and had a very early ascent:

Bill Price on Tales of Power

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
Didn't Bill reach down to grab a pin and have it pull out in his hands?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
Doug McDonald was fixated on this thing BITD.... he probably went up there with Tarbuster, Werner, etc.... what I remember most was perhaps the biggest gobie I had ever seen on the back of his hand after one session. It was the size of a manhole cover.
Double D

climber
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
Mark I don't remember him pulling out a pin but I didn't go with him on his 1st attempt so it may have happened then. In fact I don't remember any fixed pro. Placing the hexes was quite a feat in itself as I recall.

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
Sparking long dead brain cells...

I remember seeing a slide show at UCSC of Hudon and Jones on TP.

Mark, please scan and post them up, they were good images...
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
placing hexes on that rig now would make it 5.13 for sure!
love to see some sport trads giving that a go with the clank clank of the hexes..
felt every bit of solid 5.12 in 85 with rigid friends...

ks
CF

climber
Feb 23, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
Some photos of Sue McDevitt firing it.




Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 23, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
Okay, here ya go.

Max and I did the second ascent in the fall of 1977. About a day or two before we did the fifth ascent of Astroman.

Getting into the Pea Pod was a bitch.



We worked on the route for a couple of days. Right above that blue sling was a pin. I thought it was yet another pin above that one that Bill had reached down to grab and pulled out.



I think right here there is a little jog in the crack that allowed me to get almost a real tight hand jamb. I'm sure I placed that nut from there.



Just before it widens out to that bit of off width. Notice the runout, two inch waist band, one inch webbing leg loops and the dual chalk bags.



Looking up at Max on the route.



Max ripped right out of the crack after this picture was taken.



And Hexes, Baby, yeah, hexes! I did it again years later with cams and it was almost cruel how easy getting pro was.
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 23, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
Good footage in the extra scences of The Sharp End

I like this climb due to the fact you can take some what large whippers and not get hurt. Link it with Seprerate reality to get the full value of the area.

Seperate reality is WAY easier IMO. It just gets a little to thin(or to wide) in the upper mid section for me.
WBraun

climber
Feb 23, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
EB's and hexes, that's cheating .....
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Feb 23, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
dang man, mark and max you guys sucked!

but the twin chalk bag thing was kinda homo...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 23, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
The size suited me, first time was the charm! What reason would I ever have for dragging this 52+ yr old carcus (almost rhymes with circus) back there? OH yeah, it's fun, elegent and ever so cool!!!
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
great pics. I went down to the base once but never completed the dang thing. it was perfect for my hands. How much harder than short circuit folks? two full grades?
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Feb 23, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
Awesome photos!!!!!

Thanks for bringing this tales thing up!!!
Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Feb 23, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
Nice photos Mark. Dual Strawberry Mtn chalk bags - cool!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 23, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
thanks Chris F and Mark H. Great!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 23, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
Thanks for the pix-- I've not seen very many.

Man, I'd love to do this thing. Maybe this year.

Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 23, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
Its hard to say Short Circuit is short with one or two powerful moves where as tales is longer and more sustained. IMO tales feels quite a bit harder then SC, al least 3 grades harder
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
Thanks.....it actually just was more intimidating to me rather than hard. I guess I was old school, if I couldnt lead something on first try I never went back until I felt ready. This is one I never felt I could lead without a hang. It was why I never got on phoenix....which I bet I could never have led.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 23, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
I don't know what the Phoenix would be like with cams but we called Tales .12b in the fall of 1977 and called Phoenix .12d/.13a (w/hexes) in the spring of 1978. They are a world apart.

I think I have my Phoenix slides scanned in already....
jiff

Mountain climber
autin, texas
Feb 24, 2009 - 12:00am PT
Any solos of this bad-boy?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 24, 2009 - 02:22am PT
hey there mark hudson... say, great photos... (not sure if i saw who took thoses?)

say, it looks like you belonged there, as you got the same colors on, as the rock... perfect match, to help say: i belong here!

well, as i am not a climber, but an artist, (that does no art these days) i just had to make note of that...

also, that little flowered clip on sue (think her name was) along with all the colors of her working-gear, sure made a an interesting picture... like a mountain flower, growing out of the crack of the rock...


great pics, though, for climing, thanks for the share...
seems i just learned some more old history from you all again...
so very glad...
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 09:18am PT
Mark, lets see the phoenix pics!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 24, 2009 - 10:14am PT
Dual bags- way cool

When did chalk bags get small? I remember some in the 90's where you supposed to just stick your fingers in. Now you can get your hand in, but it's not the best

I'm going to go buy that one Russ sells that fits five blocks.
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 24, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
I tried the phoenix once and wasnt able to get it clean but I thought it went easier then the first time I tried Tales. The phoenix for me goes from good fingers to ok hands. None of that wierd inbetween stuff Tales has. Both lines however are some of the best granite cracks I'v ever climbed. Thinking about Yos is makeing me stressed I'm in school :(.
Jim Wilcox

Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
Feb 24, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
Double D,

Is the photo of Bill when he was still in high school? Lud mentioned that he got student athelete of the week (month?) for a climb he did in Yosemite. Pretty sure he said it was Tales. I was amazed that a public school would even acknowledge climbing, especially WAAAYYY back then.
He told a pretty wild story of Bill on Phoenix, too, as I recall. And Lud is that master of understatement.

Cheers,
Jim
Double D

climber
Feb 24, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
"Is the photo of Bill when he was still in high school?"

Na, that was taken when he SHOULD HAVE STILL BEEN in high school. Bill dropped out and got his GED so that he could climb. He was 17 I think when the picture was taken.

It's interesting hearing various takes on the hand size. I remember KB went up and had bomer jams (she didn't complete it though). To me it was very similar to short circut but way longer.

Phoenix, when Bill and I first worked on it, was a funky size for me on the mid section of the upper crack, sort of had to use thumb cams because of the leaning nature of it. But I could only do about 10' sections before I was gassed.

Edit: We did get PE credit for climbing where we went to high school. We had a bolt ladder for practicing aid but the crux was getting pelted by rocks and bottles from the local hoodlums. We also had a 2.75" crack on the underside of our bleachers that we used to put the porta-pit under for practice.


Gene

climber
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
This one deserves a BUMP.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
great thread.

anyone have any stories from RK and the first ascent? Werner, bet you were there.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:11pm PT


Castaneda bump!
drewsky

climber
Seattle
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
On the drive up to climb both of these pitches (Tales and Separate) for the first time, there was a huge commotion near the parking area: there had been a motorcycle accident. Two people were writhing and bleeding on the ground surrounded by perhaps three dozen assorted gawkers and, fortunately, a competent medic or two. As we could offer little help, we continued up the road. I think it was at least a half hour before we heard sirens approaching from behind us on the road: don't expect a lightning-fast response even in a virtual small town like Yosemite.

Despite this inauspicious beginning, the climbs were great. Climbing Tales of Power followed by Separate Reality is an enjoyable combo. I found myself much more impressed by Tales of Power, although they are completely different styles of climbs. Aesthetically, however, it certainly takes the cake in my book.

Credit: drewsky
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
one of the very best!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 9, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
bump this again
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 9, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
sweeeeeeet!
gf

climber
Mar 9, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
classic
and to keep the nagging going -mark-lets see the shots of the route that i believe was referenced by "this is the hardest thing i hope to climb" in that seminal mtn mag article
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 9, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
I said that? Was that Max talking about Phoenix?
Certainly, back then, if you would have told us about working a route for days and weeks and months, we would have said "no way, not interested". We would have gone for that on a wall climb but not anything shorter. We used the shorter routes to up our on-sight ability to free climb walls.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Mar 9, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
Never even attempted Tales of Power or A Separate Reality. I've read 'em both though, and also The Teachings of Don Juan: A Yaqui Way of Knowledge and A Journey To Ixtland.

I know this wasn't the question, but if I had to choose, I'd go with A Separate Reality (but just maybe A Journey to Ixtland).
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 10, 2011 - 12:03am PT
I'mma stalk your ass next time you're in the Lodge cafeteria :)

I'm never going into the cafe again! ;-)
gf

climber
Mar 10, 2011 - 12:08am PT
i think it was max who wrote that about the phoenix -not sure if you have those photos still at the ready you noted up-thread but it would be great if you can find time to postup
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 10, 2011 - 12:10am PT
There is a Phoenix thread somewhere here where I posted all the photos.
gf

climber
Mar 10, 2011 - 12:12am PT
noted and thanks
tonesfrommars

Trad climber
California
Mar 10, 2011 - 01:26am PT
Tales of power
Tales of power
Credit: tonesfrommars
Credit: tonesfrommars
Credit: tonesfrommars
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Who'll stop the reign?
Mar 10, 2011 - 08:43am PT
Always loved the name of that route. Its one of those names that just sticks with you. Then seeing it you go, holy shit!

Never even presumed to dream of trying it though. Lol.

DMT
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 10, 2011 - 10:52am PT
When I started coming to the valley, it was regularly touted on the whisper circuit as the "real hardman entrance exam".

Like, "yeah Separate Reality is cool, but it's light for the grade, and the Cringe is pumpy, but they get done a lot, Fish crack is piss for the grade...you want a REAL hardman route...Tales"

I heard variations on that kinda talk from at least a dozen people. Tales, Tales, Tales. And they were right...unless you have children's hands, then maybe 5.8++.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 3, 2012 - 02:17am PT
sick bump
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 3, 2012 - 03:42am PT
Tales of Power - Shino checking it out on the rap approach. <br/>
The rope...
Tales of Power - Shino checking it out on the rap approach.
The rope indicates vertical. Yes, it's steep!
What a beautiful line.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 22, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
it is indeed beautiful line..

edit: to David - no I have not
David Wilson

climber
CA
Aug 22, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
Alexey, Do you have intimate knowledge of this line of beauty ? Too hard for me that one. Those pics of Sue are great !!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 22, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Aug 22, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
Credit: 'Shopped by Peter Haan
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 22, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
wow look at that arete next to tales in Ed's photo!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 22, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
I spotted Tales and showed it to Ron, he doesn't remember it that way, but it's the truth. It was right around the time Meyers and I did Sherry's Crack and Knob Job - Tales is pretty much right above those two, and I was scoping the whole area with binoculars.

I didn't notice Separate Reality, but distinctly remember the thrill of seeing the splitter that was to become Tales of Power hidden in those camouflaging water streaks for the first time.

Unfortunately it was so steep and thin that I just wrote it off after our first attempt on it. Ron, Nick Taylor and I went up there and between the two of them got a rope to the alcove. Nobody could get much farther, but Ron got the highest - and drove a 1 1/4 inch angle at the high point.

Ron kept returning and worked it out, I don't recall how many tries (this was well before Friends) it took, but he finally got it, and in the process discovered and led Separate Reality.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 21, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
B b b b b bump
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
It was right around the time Meyers and I...
GM was recruited by RK to belay him above that "1 1/4 inch angle" highpoint over a number of days. I recall watching Ron take fall after fall (30 footers) onto that pin. Looked like pretty spectacular (& bold) airtime from our vantage point on Reeds Direct.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Kevin, at the end of the season 1971, like late October, Bates and I spotted both lines. We had just done the FA of The Application and had tons of time left in the day. Plus we hadn't hung out that much back then. They are not that obvious amidst the water streaks and jumbly cliffs. I never went up there, not sure if Barry snooped around. HIs career kept going for a bit longer and thin hands were his trademark... When we spotted them, we were effing stunned to say the least.
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA
Mar 22, 2013 - 05:11am PT
I recall a late 80's calendar photo of a svelte Christian Griffith on Tales of Power. I believe he flashed it, showing his all-around ability during those turbulent times. He has big hands too..
Does anyone have or recall that photo?
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