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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Apr 25, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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I don't think routes that have been included in books like this a million times like Kor-Ingalls on Castleton should be there, especially since that route isn't very good anyway. Better for lesser known but equally good or better routes like Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest to be represented. Other Utah routes that should be there are Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon, Washer Woman, Phantom Sprint on Echo Tower, Zenyatta Entrada, and probably one of the long free routes on the Tombstones(Playing Hooky?).
In the Gunks, Shockley's is really good if you start it with Strictly from Nowhere, but otherwise lots of dull climbing to one cool roof.
Something in the Needles in South Dakota would be nice to see. Spire 3 and 4 are good and fairly long. The Needle's Eye is only one pitch but very iconic. The Conn Diagonal on Outer Outlet is very classic and 3 pitches.
Something on Sundance Buttress at Lumpy Ridge should be there - Mainliner, Kor's Flake, and Turnkorner all come to mind.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 25, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Timeless61, those are some sweet pix. The Cascades rock. I've only done Shuksan (1973) but my dad is from Olympia and I have a lot of relations up in that neck of the woods.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Apr 25, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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I agree with Andy, having The Nose, the salathe, west buttress, Cassin ridge, etc etc is kind of a given. Probably better even still to say the 100 best ROCK climbs for the ticklist.
Areas like The Needles and Tahquitz/Suicide are underestimated when people put together big lists! I would put the following for Idyllwild:
Vampire
Open Book
Mechanics Route
Chingadera
Valhalla (!!!)
Insomnia
Flower of High Rank
Green Arch
Lots more probably coudl be considered classics... but these are in the annals of californian climbing as CLASSICS!
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Apr 25, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
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WASHINGTON
Washington Pass has a lot of routes but in general the quality isn’t so high.....I bet some new routes would be much better than (Liberty Bell).....I agree.
Northwest Volcanoes Mt. Rainier....Ptarmigan Ridge is a much better an more interesting climb than Libery.
Mt Snoqulaimie, Pineapple Express (winter mixed)
Leavenworth Snow Creek Wall.......Hyperspace with the thin crack start.
Stuart Range....Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face
Stuart Range Prusik Peak.... South Face
Stuart Range Mt. Stuart...Girth Pillar
Index Town Wall...Davis Holland/Loving Arms
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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Apr 25, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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Alaska....
There are great climbs and then there are classics. Royal Tower is great, but as far as classics go Keystone Greensteps in Valdez has to be one of the mega classics in the country.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Apr 25, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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Seems like each state with real climbing could have its own 50-100 classics book.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Apr 25, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
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Or at least each state that isn't Alabama, Arkansas, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New Hampshire, New Jersey, North Carolina, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin and Guam.
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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"...Alabama, Arkansas, Connecticut, Delaware...Georgia, Hawaii...Kentucky...Maine...Michigan...New Hampshire...North Carolina, North Dakota...Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin and Guam."
I second this, not because I agree, but because anything that leads people away from these states benefits me. Seriously, the climbing in West Virginia is just awful. Nobody go there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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37 from Cali is toooo many.
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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From GDavis's list, certainly Montana, New Hampshire, North Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, and West Virginia could have fantastic top 50-100 lists, and about half of the others could have credible ones.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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AZ Classics
The Mace and Earth Angel in Sedona.
Candyland, Thin Slice, Reunion and Jump Back Jack Crack at Granite Mountain.
What's My Line, Abracadaver, Days of Future Passed and Forest Lawn at the Cochise Stronghold.
Hotline at Tom's Thumb in Phoenix.
Lizard Marmalade Direct, Leviathan Dome, Histoplasmosis, Chiboni-Quick Death- Voodoo Child on Rappel Rock and Rapture of the Steep at the Reef of Rock.
For starters....
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qigongclimber
climber
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May 20, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
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Chris:
It's "Smith Rock", not "Smith Rocks". Please correct your list and your topo pages.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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May 20, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
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C-MAC GOT TOLD
UPDATE YOUR LISTS HOMES
PEAx OUT
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 20, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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Yeah yeah yeah - it's also "Sierra" not "Sierras", and "Red Rock" not "Red Rocks"...
I've been coming to the High Sierra since I was 10 weeks old - and I call it the Sierras all the time. The original Red Rocks guidebook was called "The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada" even though technically it's Red Rock National Conservation Area. If people want to call it Smith Rocks, so what? It is a bunch of rock formations, not one solitary rock.
If it was "officially" called Smith Rocks and there was only one rock, then there'd be more reason to complain.
Language evolves...get over it!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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May 20, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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My 2 sheckles' worth...
Dump:
Denali West Butt
Colchuck Rock
Everything at Smith Rocks (I don't think rap-bolted routes are 'classic') - substitute - Mt Hood's Yocum Ridge- in winter of course
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JAK
climber
The Souf
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May 20, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
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"I second this, not because I agree, but because anything that leads people away from these states benefits me. Seriously, the climbing in West Virginia is just awful. Nobody go there. "
If you think West Virginia is bad, you'd be appalled by North Carolina.
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seamus mcshane
climber
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May 20, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
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Can anyone say Orange Blossom Wall @ T-Wall?
Pound for pound any one of these classic, albeit short routes demand recognition.
My 2 cents.
Most of these routes define classic.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
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For my money, the Beast Flake Variation is the best way to do recompense. It is wild, exposed, fun.
I would have included the Prow from Cathedral, too.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Apr 19, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
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New Hampshire and Nevada lists need some rethinking I would say, as does Toulumne.
Generally, as Randy pointed out, to much reliance on obvious, safe choices. Might be better to narrow the grade range as per Ken Wilsons Hard Rock, Classic Rock and Extreme Rock series.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 19, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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List from Arizona lacking too... there are lots of places other than Cochise with great climbing.
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