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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Oct 27, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
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I'd welcome an updated list personally. It could illuminate a lot of great routes for folks and I'd love to hear the detailed history on them.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Oct 27, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
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Nice! I like it!
AF
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 27, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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Wow....I've got a long way to go.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Oct 27, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Keep it up Chris (no pun intended).
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 27, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
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My advice is no. They will become the 100 supercrowded classics.
I'd rather you spent your time on topos for new areas or adding new climbs to current areas.
SEKI and Needles could use some supertopo quality treatment!
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
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Having met a few people trying to do all the "Fifty Classics," this could create a new challenge.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
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'They will become the 100 supercrowded classics.'
Most already are. Not a lot of big secrets on that list.
I wonder how these books sell- the Roper/Steck did pretty well; how about the 50 Favorites? Did they make money on that? Most of those routes are pretty hard, too, not so attainable for Joe Supertopo, but the book still did OK I think, judging from peoples' bookshelves.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:07pm PT
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There are so many routes at Tahquitz better than the Mechanics Route (which is also rather run out). And it is hard to take the selection seriously without including The Vampire -- hands down the best route in the area.
Fish Hook on Russell? Mithral is the obvious choice -- an amazing line.
The Snaz is the "safe" (and already overcrowded) choice, but Caveat Emptor is very much the superior climb.
Arizona -- Granite Mt has some amazing climbs.
Overall the list is perhaps too safe.
Glad you decided to exclude Josh, nothing worthwhile there at all.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
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Chris
I'm surpised you didn't add any route on the Diamond,
east face of Long's Peak in Colorado, say the Casual Route,
Yellow Wall. . . D7.
Culp Bossier on Hallet's Peak
The Petit Grepon
In Utah there could be tons more. . .
Great idea, though!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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He didn't - quite. The northeast buttress of Slesse is in Canada, and approached from Canada.
There's something to be said for a North American aspect to it - Canada + Mexico + other place. Though winnowing it down to 100 would be hard - maybe 500 or 1,000 would do it. Especially if you're including both rock and alpine climbs.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:17pm PT
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Tami, Just a though, but it could be that Canada has so many great climbs it would overshadow other good routes in the US... Oh, and it was titled 100 Classic Climbs in the US...
Edit: Oops looks like a Canuk route slipped in there anyway...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
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Just put in 110 routes and advertise "10% extra free bonus climbs"
Why lock into the standard number?
;-)
Karl
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
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Chris,
I would toss out Colorado, Ellingwood Arete on La Plata Peak. For the vast majority of the ridge, 20 feet down and east of the ridge crest is a class 2 trail. Yeah, there is probably a pitch of low 5th class about 3/4 of the way up the route, but if you do anymore 5th class climbing (or 4th class climbing for that matter) on this route you are going way out of your way to avoid easy trail hiking.
The climb is a major fun outing, but there really isn't much rock climbing at all.
Bruce
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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Listing the Mechanic's Route on Tahquitz would likely increase the traffic eight or nine fold. A good route, but a surprisingly unheralded one that doesn't see all that much traffic, unlike most of the other routes listed.
Too be honest, while it's hard to argue with your route selection, I'm just as happy to see certain routes excluded lest I have to stand in line to climb them once the book comes out.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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How about 100 Classic Unknowns..spread out the traffic a bit. Or would that just ruin a bunch of locals' favorites?
BTW, the Nose on Looking Glass has pretty average climbing, isn't especially sustained, and really has little else going for it besides historical value. Other neighboring routes in the Nose area offer a lot more of that 'sea of brows' feeling, ie. Peregrine. Hard to beat the Cornflake for all of the above: great climbing, historically significant, cool ledges, and no one's calling it a 1-move wonder. Or Tits and Beer, at 5.9. Uh, Stone Mountain?
The North Chimney on Castleton is okay, but its principal virtue is the accessible grade. The North Face is way better.
Otto's Route is decidedly non-classic, as far as the climbing goes- lots of 4th-class gullies, lots of drilled holds, and a cool topout pitch do not a classic make. It's unique, thank god for that, but not exactly stacked with great pitches.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
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I an see choosing the Durrance Route on Devils Tower for historical reasons, but there are much better lines in my opinion...
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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Given that there are already two other books out there and the website which expanded the original 50 Classics I would say skip the project and work on the guides.
Besides with any list there will be lots of griping. For instance, nothing was listed at Seneca Rocks, The Gunks, Linville Gorge, etc. All have classic multipitch climbs. And of course Steck and Roper caught lots of comments about the list being CA centric. This list is the same.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 27, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
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Chris - there are some classics at Index, WA, particularly the upper wall.
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