SuperTopo 100 Classic Climbs in the US

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 141 of total 141 in this topic
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
I'm thinking of making a classic climbs book in the US.

I have started compiling a list below of potential climbs. Right now it has 110 climbs.

I am still not sure i want to do this project. I think it would be fun to come up with a dream tick list and then go climb all the routes. But, i also know that best of books have their issues.

list updated 10/28
I'm thinking of making a classic climbs book in the US.

I have started compiling a list below of potential climbs. Right now it has 110 climbs.

I am still not sure i want to do this project. I think it would be fun to come up with a dream tick list and then go climb all the routes. But, i also know that best of books have their issues.

list updated 10/30

ALASKA
Alaska Range Eye Tooth Dream in the Spirit of Mugs - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akeywpil
Alaska Range Mt. Barrill Cobra Pillar - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akbacobr
Alaska Range Denali Cassin Ridge - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akdecass
Alaska Range Denali West Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akdewbut
Alaska Range Royal Tower Gargoyle Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akrogarg

ARIZONA
Cochise Stronghold Chochise Dome What's My Line
Cochise Stronghold Sheepshead Peacemaker
Cochise Stronghold Out of Towners Dome Out of Towners
Cochise Stronghold Abracadaver
Granite Mountain?

CALIFORNIA
Calaveras Dome Wall of the Worlds - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacawall
Calaveras Dome Sands of Time -http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacasand
Calaveras Dome High Times a.k.a. Silk Road - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacahigh
High Sierra Whitney East Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hiwhebut
High Sierra Mt. Russell Mithral Dihedral - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hirumith
High Sierra Clyde Minaret Southeast Face
High Sierra Temple Crag Sun Ribbon Arete - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hitesunr
High Sierra Incredible Hulk Positive Vibrations - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hiinposi
High Sierra Keeler Needle Harding Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hikehard
High Sierra Charlotte Dome South Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hichsout
High Sierra Third Pillar of Dana - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tuthregu
Idyllwild Tahquitz Mechanic's Route
Idyllwild Tahquitz Open Book - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=taopenbo
Idyllwild Tahquitz Whodunit
Idyllwild Tahquitz Vampire
Lover's Leap Main Wall Corrugation Corner - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lomacorr
Lover's Leap East Wall The Line - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=loealine
Lover's Leap East Wall Travelers Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lomatrav
Needles Witches Needle Igor Unchained/Airy Interlude - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=newiairy
Needles Sorcerer Needle Thin Ice - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nesothin
Needles- Kern River Voodoo Dome White Punks on Dope
Tuolumne Fairview Dome Regular Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tufaregu
Tuolumne Cathedral Peak Southeast Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucasout
Tuolumne Mathest Crest Traverse from South to North - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tumctrav
Tuolumne Mt. Conness West Ridge - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucowest
Yosemite Washington Column Astroman - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yowaastr
Yosemite El Capitan East Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoeleast
Yosemite Higher Cathedral Rock Northeast Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohcnort
Yosemite Higher Cathedral Rock Braille Book - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohcbrai
Yosemite Half Dome Regular Northwest Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybharegu
Yosemite Royal Arches Royal Arches - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoraroya
Yosemite El Capitan Salathé Wall - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelsala
Yosemite Half Dome Snake Dike - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohasnak
Yosemite El Capitan The Nose - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelnose
Yosemite The Rostrum North Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoronort
Mt Shasta North Side Hotum Bolum Ridge
Castle Crags The Ogre (Mt. Hubris) Cosmic Wall

COLORADO
Black Canyon National Monument North Chasm View Nose The Cruise (Scenic Cruise)
Boulder Third Flatiron East Face
Colorado National Monument Independence Monument Otto's Route
Eldorodo Canyon Bastille Crack
Eldorodo Canyon Redgarden Wall Naked Edge
Eldorodo Canyon Redgarden Wall Yellow Spur
Eldorodo Canyon Redgarden Gambit
Rocky Mtn. National Park Mt. Ypsilon Blitzen Ridge,
Rocky Mtn. National Park Diamond Casual Route
Rocky Mtn. National Park Hallett Peak Culp-Bossier route
Rocky Mtn. National Park Mt. Meeker Flying Buttress
Rocky Mtn. National Park Petit Grepon South Face
Rocky Mtn. National Park Syke's Sickle, Spearhead
Rocky Mtn. National Park Diamond, Casual Route
Sangre de Cristo Range Crestone Needle Ellingwood Ledges
Sangre de Cristo Range Kit Carson Peak South Prow
Sawatch Range La Plata Peak Ellingwood Ridge
South Platte Sheep's Nose Lost in Space
South Platte Helen's Dome-Acid Rock-Sheep Rock Tour de Platte
South Platte Cynical Pinnacle Wunches Dihedral
Hallet's Peak, Culp Bossier
Rocky Mtn. National The Petit Grepon S. Face
Lumpy Ridge Pear Buttress

IDAHO
Sawtooth Mountains Elephant's Perch Mountaineer's Route
McCall Slick Rock Regular Route

NEVADA
Red Rocks Cloud Tower Crimson Chrysalis - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reclcrim
Red Rocks Black Velvet Canyon Dream of Wild Turkeys (include Prince and Yellow) - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rebldrea
Red Rocks Rainbow Wall Original Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rerarain
Red Rocks Black Velvet Canyon Epinephrine - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reblepin
Red Rocks Eagle Wall Levitation 29 - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reealevi
Red Rocks Solar Slab - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols
Red Rocks Nightcrawler - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reranigh
Red Rocks Angel Food Wall Tunnel Vision - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reantunn
Red Rocks Jackrabbit Buttress Geronimo - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rejagero
Red Rocks Cat in The Hat - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=remecati

NEW HAMPSHIRE
Cannon Cliff Cannon Cliff VMC Direct Direct
Cannon Cliff Cannon Cliff Whitney-Gilman
Cathedral Ledge Cathedral Ledge Thin Air
Cathedral Ledge Cathedral Ledge Recompense
Whitehorse Ledge Whitehorse Ledge Standard Route
Whitehorse Ledge Whitehorse Ledge

NEW MEXICO
Questa Dome Questa Dome Questa Direct
Sandias Warpy Moople

NEW YORK
Gunks High Exposure (Directissima Var.)
Gunks Shockley's Ceiling
Gunks Erect Direction
Gunks Bonnies Roof
Adirondacs Pok-o-moonshine
Adirondacs Chapel Pond Slab

NORTH CAROLINA
Looking Glass Looking Glass Cornflake
Looking Glass Looking Glass Glass Minagerie
Stone Mountain State Park Stone Mountains Grand Funk Railroad
Whitesides Whitesides Original Route
Laurel Knob Fathom Direct

OREGON
Smith Rocks Monkey's Face Pioneer Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=smmopion
Smith Rocks Monkey's Face West Face Variation
Smith Rocks Sunshine Wall Zebra/Zion - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=smmgzebr

UTAH
Castle Valley Castleton Tower North Face
Castle Valley Castleton Tower Kor Ingalls - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=decakori
Castle Valley The Rectory Fine Jade - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=derefine
Canyonlands Moses Primrose Dihedrals - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=demoprim
Canyonlands Standing Rock Kor Route
Fisher Towers Ancient Art Stolen Chimney Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=deanstol
Fisher Towers Titan Finger of Fate - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=detifing
Zion Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=zianmoon
Zion Angel's Landing Northeast Buttress
Zion Shunes Buttress
Indian Creek North Six Shooter - Lightning Bolt Cracks - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=denoligh


WASHINGTON
North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Liberty Crack - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwlilibe
North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Thin Red Line - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwlithin
Northwest Volcanoes Mt. Rainier Liberty Ridge
Leavenworth Snow Creek Wall Outer Space - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwsnoute
Stuart Range Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwcowfac
Stuart Range Dragontail Peak Backbone Ridge with Fin Direct - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwdrback
Stuart Range Prusik Peak South Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwprsfac
Stuart Range Mt. Stuart Complete North Ridge - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwstnrid
Index Town Wall Green Dragon
N. Early Winter Spire West Face
N. Early Winter Spire Northwest Corner
Chianti Spire East Face Rebel Yell

WEST VIRGINIA
Seneca Rocks?

WYOMING
Devils Tower Durrance Route
Devils Tower Walt Bailey Memorial
Tetons Grand Teton Direct Exum Ridge
Tetons Mt. Owen Serendipity Ridge
Tetons Irene's Arete
Tetons Cathedral Rock The Snaz
Tetons Caveat Emptor
Wind Rivers Wolf's Head East Ridge
Wind Rivers Ellingwood Peak North Aréte
Wind Rivers Pingora Northeast Face
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
I'd welcome an updated list personally. It could illuminate a lot of great routes for folks and I'd love to hear the detailed history on them.
Anastasia

climber
Not there
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
Nice! I like it!
AF
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
Wow....I've got a long way to go.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
Keep it up Chris (no pun intended).
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
My advice is no. They will become the 100 supercrowded classics.

I'd rather you spent your time on topos for new areas or adding new climbs to current areas.

SEKI and Needles could use some supertopo quality treatment!
Chris2

Trad climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
Having met a few people trying to do all the "Fifty Classics," this could create a new challenge.
Tez

Mountain climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
This list was created over the course of a few years: http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/other/misc/index.htm
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
'They will become the 100 supercrowded classics.'

Most already are. Not a lot of big secrets on that list.

I wonder how these books sell- the Roper/Steck did pretty well; how about the 50 Favorites? Did they make money on that? Most of those routes are pretty hard, too, not so attainable for Joe Supertopo, but the book still did OK I think, judging from peoples' bookshelves.


looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:07pm PT
There are so many routes at Tahquitz better than the Mechanics Route (which is also rather run out). And it is hard to take the selection seriously without including The Vampire -- hands down the best route in the area.

Fish Hook on Russell? Mithral is the obvious choice -- an amazing line.

The Snaz is the "safe" (and already overcrowded) choice, but Caveat Emptor is very much the superior climb.

Arizona -- Granite Mt has some amazing climbs.

Overall the list is perhaps too safe.

Glad you decided to exclude Josh, nothing worthwhile there at all.



SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
Chris
I'm surpised you didn't add any route on the Diamond,
east face of Long's Peak in Colorado, say the Casual Route,
Yellow Wall. . . D7.
Culp Bossier on Hallet's Peak
The Petit Grepon
In Utah there could be tons more. . .
Great idea, though!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
He didn't - quite. The northeast buttress of Slesse is in Canada, and approached from Canada.

There's something to be said for a North American aspect to it - Canada + Mexico + other place. Though winnowing it down to 100 would be hard - maybe 500 or 1,000 would do it. Especially if you're including both rock and alpine climbs.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:17pm PT
Tami, Just a though, but it could be that Canada has so many great climbs it would overshadow other good routes in the US... Oh, and it was titled 100 Classic Climbs in the US...

Edit: Oops looks like a Canuk route slipped in there anyway...
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Just put in 110 routes and advertise "10% extra free bonus climbs"

Why lock into the standard number?

;-)

Karl
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Chris,

I would toss out Colorado, Ellingwood Arete on La Plata Peak. For the vast majority of the ridge, 20 feet down and east of the ridge crest is a class 2 trail. Yeah, there is probably a pitch of low 5th class about 3/4 of the way up the route, but if you do anymore 5th class climbing (or 4th class climbing for that matter) on this route you are going way out of your way to avoid easy trail hiking.

The climb is a major fun outing, but there really isn't much rock climbing at all.

Bruce
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
Listing the Mechanic's Route on Tahquitz would likely increase the traffic eight or nine fold. A good route, but a surprisingly unheralded one that doesn't see all that much traffic, unlike most of the other routes listed.

Too be honest, while it's hard to argue with your route selection, I'm just as happy to see certain routes excluded lest I have to stand in line to climb them once the book comes out.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
How about 100 Classic Unknowns..spread out the traffic a bit. Or would that just ruin a bunch of locals' favorites?

BTW, the Nose on Looking Glass has pretty average climbing, isn't especially sustained, and really has little else going for it besides historical value. Other neighboring routes in the Nose area offer a lot more of that 'sea of brows' feeling, ie. Peregrine. Hard to beat the Cornflake for all of the above: great climbing, historically significant, cool ledges, and no one's calling it a 1-move wonder. Or Tits and Beer, at 5.9. Uh, Stone Mountain?

The North Chimney on Castleton is okay, but its principal virtue is the accessible grade. The North Face is way better.

Otto's Route is decidedly non-classic, as far as the climbing goes- lots of 4th-class gullies, lots of drilled holds, and a cool topout pitch do not a classic make. It's unique, thank god for that, but not exactly stacked with great pitches.





TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
I an see choosing the Durrance Route on Devils Tower for historical reasons, but there are much better lines in my opinion...
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
Given that there are already two other books out there and the website which expanded the original 50 Classics I would say skip the project and work on the guides.

Besides with any list there will be lots of griping. For instance, nothing was listed at Seneca Rocks, The Gunks, Linville Gorge, etc. All have classic multipitch climbs. And of course Steck and Roper caught lots of comments about the list being CA centric. This list is the same.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
Chris - there are some classics at Index, WA, particularly the upper wall.

seamus mcshane

climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
Great idea.
Don't do it.

Dream tick lists should be left to dreams.

Besides, backlash is inevitable from haters, Mick Ryan had to leave the States. Too many death threats. 8)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:58pm PT
The Ourom route on sphinx is down to three pitches nowadays with longer ropes...
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
Aye TK, but the Durrance is ALREADY destroyed - it's covered with human grease and rubber. Let the hordes continue to abuse the one route. !!!
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
New York, NY
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
Karl Wrote: " Just put in 110 routes and advertise "10% extra free bonus climbs"

Why lock into the standard number?"


I don't know if you should do it or not, but I think Karl's insight as to the number is a great idea.
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:15pm PT
Indian Creek?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
Leave the damn Creek alone!

If Deto basalt can get worn out, imagine Wingate in 100 years.
seamus mcshane

climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:17pm PT
I like Tami's idea better, how about not having a round #, like 107?

Still, there could be death threats...
Churningindawake

Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
Oregon:

The West Face Variation, or Monkey Space, are more classic than the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face.
Domingo

Trad climber
El Portal, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
I feel like a few sport lines from the Red or the New should go in here... but maybe these areas aren't old enough to be classic yet.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
Good point museum...stick with the Durrance...


Glad it's in agreement that there is nothing classic in MT...
apogee

climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
The widely varying and humorous opinions posted here thusfar makes a good rationale for NOT creating such a list...
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Oct 27, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
Great idea!

But here are some improvements (to make it more profitable).

Supertopo 100 Classic Top Rope Climbs in the US
 Your original idea has been done before - not original
 Bigger market - larger printing run
 Wealthier demographics - higher cover price
 Spread the "classicness" around - not elitist
 Doesn't "poach" your existing market
 Planned obsolescence - they get too crowded and lose classic status, leading to:

Supertopo 100 Class Top Ropes - 2010 Edition
Supertopo 100 Class Top Ropes - 2012 Edition
Supertopo 100 Class Top Ropes - 2014 Edition
Supertopo 100 Class Top Ropes - 2016 Edition
Supertopo 100 Class Top Ropes - 2018 Edition
Supertopo 100 Class Top Ropes - 2020 Edition
Supertopo 100 Class Top Ropes - 2022 Edition

Companion Guides
Supertopo Classic Accomodations
Supertopo Classic Restaurants
 automatic obsolescence for this industry

Supertopo 74 Greatest Top Rope Cracks
Supertopo 69 Best TR Roofs

SuperTopo 100 Top Trad Guides

etc.

:-)
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
My Vote: Do it !
Good idea. Entertaining. Why knott ? Overcrowding... too late.

And, except for the start, Whodunit really isn't much to write home about.
Oh, like Nef' said below, Royal Arches is a pleasant hike, but there is almost no
actual climbing to enjoy.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 27, 2008 - 03:04pm PT
Royal Arches? Really? Even East Butt of EC is debatable... But Royal Arches is mostly 3rd class scrambling. Even when there is climbing, it's not terribly interesting - low angle .6 crack climbing. There's really only one good pitch on the thing, which is the chimney start. I guess there's a kinda decent one up high.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 27, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
criteria for selection first, then you'll get the list.

most of the first batch seem to be long routes.

bias? or criteria?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 27, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
Maybe the new Yosemite Free Climbs Supertopo book should only include the Royal Arches...this could really concentrate traffic where it belongs.
HJ

climber
Bozeman, Montana
Oct 27, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
Best of books only cause problems as already mentioned, over-crowding, ego-aggarandizement, etc. What is really needed is 50 epic grovels...
craig mo

Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
Oct 27, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
100 classic climbing locations.
some times its the place thats classic.
TC

Social climber
No matter where you go, there you are.
Oct 27, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
Chris, it's good to see that you will include

High Sierra Clyde Minaret Southeast Face

It's been a long time coming.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 27, 2008 - 10:06pm PT
Although not a Supertopo book....Dick DuMais has already done such a book;..called Great American Rock Climbs....which has probably 2/3 of your list, and his whole list is excellent;...sure ;...you can do the "topo" thing is the "super" way;...but it would be recycled, regurgitated, resurfaced, copycat, yesterday's papers, yawn, over-done, re-take, rematch, floatsome, jetsome, wank, nOOb, no-where, nohow, nobody, see-ya.......(I'm sure it would be an awesome book, but it HAS already sort of been done;.........although The DuMais really can't be taken too seriously for it does NOT have The Vampire on Tahquitz....AND it has Joshua Tree and everyone knows that there aren't ANY * routes at Joshua Tree......maybe it IS time to do it up correctly.......................)
dogtown

climber
Where I once was,I think?
Oct 27, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
Chris;

I would add some Idyllwild routes to your list

Insomnia 5.11a/b

Valhalla 5.11a

The Vampire 5.11a
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Oct 27, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
I would go with Walt Bailey Memorial as THE classic Devils Tower crack and I think Bon Homme Variation has the best 300 feet of 5.7 Hand crack in the country- andI know cuz I've done all the others
Jennie

Trad climber
Idaho Falls
Oct 27, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
Mixed emotions about the “Teton Classics”on the list….. they’re classics but not necessarily the best climbs in the range. Way too much traffic already on the Direct Exum, yet the Beyer East face and NW Ridge are better routes. Irene’s Arete gets excessive attention but there are other rock climbs nearly as good, with little traffic.

I’m opposed to lists that serve to funnel climbers onto a few select routes rather than explore the varied manifestations of a range.
Degaine

climber
Oct 28, 2008 - 08:53am PT
Seems like an interesting enough idea.

Don't know why you'd want to inlcude anything from the Needles on that list, that place is choss. Spend time, money, ink and paper on an area much more worthy of consideration. As far as I'm concerned the quicker that place is forgotten and falls into oblivion, the better. I'd rather go climbing at the Auburn quarry.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 28, 2008 - 10:31am PT
To be honest Chris, and please don't be offended, the list appears to be centered around a single climber's (yours?) experience.

When I look at the Utah selections, a bunch of routes in only three areas, it appears to leave wide gaps.

Perhaps you should pursue more of a censensus type list.


I'm not sure if I should be insulted that none of my routes are included, but they are crowded and abused enough so could you please keep it that way?
cheers
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 28, 2008 - 11:39am PT
It's a catch-22 eh? If a route gets "Super Topo-ed" then it becomes much more popular. (unless it's insanely popular to begin with.

If you choose the secondary super-classics, they become the super-classics. Is that better or worse.

There are only so many of us climbing and we climb something or other. The routes that aren't super-topo-ed are suddenly easier to get on.

That's why, even though I think Chris is a great, and I love Supertopos, I'm careful what I write in the forum.

Pick your poison, nobody stays home from climbing because of the book, they just choose the route from a book

Peace

karl
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2008 - 11:52am PT
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I just updated the list with many of your suggestions.

Not sure i want to do the project. I have just been thinking about it for so long that i figured i'd toss it out there and at least get some feedback about what the list might actually include.

at the very least i'll end up with a great list of climbs to check out next year.

throw out more route suggestions if you got them.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 28, 2008 - 12:03pm PT
I think Chris and his business have enough standing in the topo-buying community to take the 100 Classic Grovels concept to a whole new level:

100 Classic Climbs that are Way the Hell Out There, Nearly Impossible to Find, and May Not Even Exist.

Then, instead of queuing up for Nutcracker, the helmeted hordes will spend all their time thrashing about in the shrubbery in search of the (possibly fictional) Classic Must-Do Route, having unscripted adventures, and generally staying out of the way of all the cool kids who inhabit the Taco Stand (that's you).

Everybody wins. The n00bz all get to recreate the thrill of new-routing- endless shwacking, uncertainty of outcome, dirt choss weeds and vermin, character-building route-finding (in every sense), and will come away very proud of themselves for Having Had an Adventure. And the rest of us can finally get on the Nutcracker for the first time in 15 years.

Some candidates:

Cloud's Rest- make up some BS beta, close your eyes and draw a line on a photo taken from Olmstead Pt., and you're done.

Panorama Point- did you hear about the new classic 5.8 over there? It's all bolted! I think Sean Jones had something to do with it.

Eagle Peak- firstoff, there's two of them, within a few miles of each other, both on the north rim of the Valley. Let's make this one that metamorphic rubbleheap above El Portal, although this information will remain unclear in the guide. Park at Crane Creek and commence shwacking. Don't ferget yer Tecnu!

Um, the entire Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP, exclusive of the Chasm View walls. A thousand gumbies could disappear every day for a year before anyone noticed.

Let's put one mega-starred Must Send line somewhere up on the Book Cliffs, how about a few miles east of Green River....it's a three-pitch hand crack. With big footholds, Red-Rocks style. Yeah, that's the ticket. 5.9, but soft for the grade.

You won't sell many books to Easterners (except in Las Vegas) unless you excavate a few Eastern Mega-Classics, so....an imaginary lake in the Adirondacks? Western Maine? How about the Chattooga Cliffs? Anyone ever hiked out to those things? I have, and the climbing is great, but there's, um, no Supertopo. Yet.

Help me out here, Cascade aldermen. Nothing do do for half the year in Seattle but sip your coffee and peruse your newest armchair aspiration list. That thing those two guys did a couple years abo that they spotted from a plane- 5.11X, three-day approach, no-pro, no-falls-- I heard it's cleaned up to a family-friendly .10a. If you stay on route. EDIT: MisterE's Devil's Club!

Big Bend: isn't there an El Capitan down there?

I can't wait.


steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Oct 28, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Funny thing about doing a guide to any list of routes is that climbers like to second-guess and pick on your choices. Best to just do it and not try to organize the list by committee. I always liked Steck and Roper's take on it. "Make your own list, this one is ours."

A buddy and I talked about doing a guide like this one, but we were going to call it 100 Routes that Don't Suck. Bet we would still have gotten a bunch of horse hockey about some of the routes.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
" Best to just do it and not try to organize the list by committee."

if i did a book, my goal would be to climb as many of the routes myself as possible. so this list will be a guide for me when doing the research. not the end all list.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 28, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
Um, you're a pretty good climber..that's a different list.
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
Oct 28, 2008 - 02:52pm PT
Right, as TK put it, there is no classic climbing in MT.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 28, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
"Chris;

I would add some Idyllwild routes to your list

Insomnia 5.11a/b

Valhalla 5.11a

The Vampire 5.11a"

Thanks blabber mouth. Not enough crowds on these for you?

Is there anything wrong with letting people discover an area for themselves?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 28, 2008 - 03:34pm PT
Why not put something in that's wild and really North Cascades-y - something maybe from the Picket Range in WA (South Face of Inspiration or North Ridge of Fury, or one of the recent traverses).
Fulford

climber
Canmore, Alberta
Oct 29, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
"I realize that best of books have their issues". Who are you kidding? ALL your guidebooks are best of books - that's why I own most of them.

I've spent most of the last 5 years road-tripping all over the USA (including AK) doing mostly classic, long, trad and alpine routes. I've compiled a "best of" list along the way which I would be happy to share with you.

From what I understand, some Canadian lads are already working on a "best of canada" book, so you might be better off sticking with the US theme despite what my s-teamed col-eeg knight sugjest eh.

Shoot me an e-mail if you are interested - I don't really want to post the list on-line.
timeless61

Mountain climber
Seattle
Oct 29, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
Chris,

Have you decided on criteria for the list? I can think of some routes I might suggest if I had an idea of what guidelines you were using to evaluate what routes make the list. What is important: length, difficuly, popularity, sustained nature, variety, scenery, etc?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 29, 2008 - 11:30pm PT
It's no secret that Valhalla, Insomnia, and The Vampire or classics;...STILL;....they are FAR from crowded......People have been calling The Vampire "The best climb in So. California for decades.".......and at 5.11-, it's well within the reach of many climbers;.....yet one would not call the climb crowded;...same with Insomnia;...another steller dick-wrenching mega-classic;....as good as any climb anywhere;....yet I have walked by the climb over 100 X.....yet seen parties on it maybe a dozen times.........I have always found this very interesting,...what the hell is up with that?........(As for protecting these great climbs from the masses;.....I wouldn't lose any sleep over it;...it just isn't gonna happen......if it hasn't happened yet, I won't happen in the future;.....each year climbers stray farther and farther from the challenging trad climbs, and instead turn their gaze towards the Petzel hangers winkin' at them from the many sport climbs which have sprouted up like mushrooms.....)
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 29, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
I missed Ed's Crack on that list, but why make that one crowded?

And as far as Deto goes, let's keep the tradition of siphoning people through Durrance, first.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 29, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
It's no secret that Valhalla, Insomnia, and The Vampire or classics;...STILL;....they are FAR from crowded......People have been calling The Vampire "The best climb in So. California for decades.".......and at 5.11-, it's well within the reach of many climbers;.....yet one would not call the climb crowded;...same with Insomnia;...another steller dick-wrenching mega-classic;....as good as any climb anywhere;....yet I have walked by the climb over 100 X.....yet seen parties on it maybe a dozen times.........I have always found this very interesting,...what the hell is up with that?........(As for protecting these great climbs from the masses;.....I wouldn't lose any sleep over it;...it just isn't gonna happen......if it hasn't happened yet, I won't happen in the future;.....each year climbers stray farther and farther from the challenging trad climbs, and instead turn their gaze towards the Petzel hangers winkin' at them from the many sport climbs which have sprouted up like mushrooms.....) It's the same with the Needles and Canyon Tajo;....people try to protect these fabulous climbing areas by keeping them "secret"....well;.....they aint' secret , and they aren't crowded, ruined, or toast;......at least from the visits I've made to these areas;...they seem fairly quiet reguardless.......keep it real.......(How about those who say Joshua Tree is crowded?....please...the place is a ghost town;....as soon as you step away from Sail Away, Double Cross, Walk on the Wild Side, and Soapy Tit Wank.....)
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Oct 29, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
RhodoRouter,
"Climbs that are Way the Hell Out There, Nearly Impossible to Find, and May Not Even Exist"

ya, this idea has been done before too.

Affectionately known as the "Maroon Book of Lies".

Garbage guide book but apparently a marketing success.

Don somebody or other's lame attempt to catalog Adirondacks climbing.

Now no longer relevant.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 30, 2008 - 12:00am PT
100 Classic Munge Climbs

discuss...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 30, 2008 - 02:17am PT
'Glue sniffing Squishheads'
.12 Ow
Near Blanding, utah
about a mile north of that crag that Jello broke.
-1 pin can, destroy a classic finger crack and pull off a whole part of a crag.

it's Mungy, but awaiting a Munge/or any 2nd,
ascent.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 30, 2008 - 02:23am PT
Lots of munge climbs around Squamish. Even more in the fjords further north. All unclimbed, but we can figure that out.
tania noakes

Trad climber
Chamonix
Oct 30, 2008 - 04:13am PT
Oh.... nice list but please don't include Cochese Stronghold... it doesn't need to get any more popular... :(
Impaler

Trad climber
Munich
Oct 30, 2008 - 04:52am PT
Chris,

I think that's a lame idea. The routes on your current list don't even have much in common. For somebody Royal Arches is a classic, but Astroman is well beyond their ability. However, for someone who can do Astroman 95% of the routes on the list have either been done already or not really worth the time. Then there's all the snow routes like Shasta that target a different audience all together.

I love your topos and will buy more books if there is more new material in them. Someone mentioned that SEKI needs a book. I agree 100%. There's also tons of beautiful high Sierra routes that could use a supertopo. Damn, incredible hulk alone could use a supertopo. 3 routes in your high sierra book are just not enough. It seemed like you already added a few high sierra routes that are not in the book to the online forum. Why not publish a book with a 100 (or better 200) high sierra routes and not just 27, some of which from the Tuolumne guidebook anyway? How popular was your "Selected Valley Climbs"? I've never seen anyone who owns one...

We need more comprehensive guides! Why do I have to own both Supertopo and Falcon guides for the same areas (Tahoe, Valley, Tuolumne, High Sierra)? The answer is simple: supertopo books are just way better, more accurate, and a pleasure to read. Your guides inspire me to get out there and do the routes. However, they lack comprehension that the Falcon guides have. Most often, the really awesome routes at higher difficulty grades are not even described, eventhough they are way better in quality than the easier piles that make it into your guides. Why?

Sorry, just had to let it out.

Vlad
AbeFrohman

Trad climber
new york, NY
Oct 30, 2008 - 08:06am PT
NY you need an adirondack route. Maybe something on Poke-o-moonshine? Aya?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Oct 30, 2008 - 08:33am PT
Braille Book is obviously better than Royal Arches, you knucklehead.

Zetedog

Trad climber
PGH, PA
Oct 30, 2008 - 08:43am PT
Chris - For WV -

You might also want to include Summersvile Lake and/or New River Gorge

For Seneca Rocks: that destinations' Sweet spot is in the 5.6 to 5.8 range - I could recommend a dozen or so routes in that grade, but you might also want to contact either guide shops in there for their opinion (Seneca-rocks.com and senecarocks.com)

Also brings up an interesting twist to the book - Although Seneca has a number of good routes above 5.10, it has most of it's "classics" below that grade. Maybe supertopo the ideal route or routes, then offer suggestions for us punters that don't lead 5.11 trad.

ToddE.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Oct 30, 2008 - 08:56am PT
Whoa, Double Cross and Figures on a Landscape, and all of JT have been passed over! Also, where's "Sally and Dan", a great TR problem at Hinckley, OH? While Shockley's Ceiling is a great place to air out the genitalia, I didn't think the climbing was super great.

Opinions are like as#@&%es, we all got 'em.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Oct 30, 2008 - 10:26am PT
The obvious solution is to make it 1001 classic climbs and sell it to the euros for their road trips, like a cross of Harlin's series and Toula's guide.

Seriously, though, if you did that I would probably buy it as well. Not necessarily saying I'd WANT you to do it, but if you did...

Regardless of where you draw the line for a project like this, you need to establish some criteria for what you include. I don't see much purpose in putting Denali and Tahquitz in the same book. There's really no US coverage of alpine routes the way the euros have done their 4000-m peaks, e.g. That would have value. You could do the 500 best alpine rock routes. That would be a beautiful book and would spread the wealth a bit. Or you could do "best of trad crags" and include just multi-pitch cragging. That targets an audience and makes it easier to compare routes to include.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Oct 30, 2008 - 10:47am PT
Idyllwild Tahquitz Mechanic's Route


What a piece of sh#t route.

Great Ultra Extreme not for lightwt pussies.

Vampire Direct, Insomnia, Magical Mystery Tour.

Juan
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
i dont have a definite criteria yet beyond:

 really good
 not too short (longer than 300-feet)

that is why i am posting here. wanted to get some feedback and you guys are doing a great job on that.

next, i need to take a few big road trips next year and climb a lot of these non-cali routes.

then ill decide if i even want to do the project based on if i think it will be a really really cool book or not.

in the mean time. it would be cool to keep the list growing and i will keep expanding the list based on your suggestions.

you may have noticed that i am trying to get a lot more inspirations, criticism and feedback from the forum these days because:

 there is a TON of climbing experience on the forum
 writing books solo is less fun

i am also trying this approach with my how to big wall climb book: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=692927

and as far as other books, we have a bunch of new ones coming out next year and some updates. i won't say yet what and when. books always take longer than i think. i dont want to set expectations of a deadline.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Oct 30, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
Your Gunks and especially NH lists sure are different from what I'd put.

GO
timeless61

Mountain climber
Seattle
Oct 30, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
Chris,
Here are my thoughts on things to consider in Washington. My criteria were great rock and/or a spectacular setting. Prepare to drool.

(make sure to scroll down to see the TR's)

Anything on Gunsight Peak:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=582314
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=709879
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=705016
The “other” Cathedral Peak
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=723567
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=379431
Something in the Picket Range (perhaps instead of Liberty crack)
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=476685
Something on the Eldorado Ice Cap
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=478953
Mt Stuart- Replace the N. Ridge with Girth Pillar since it is already on the 50 classics. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=708727
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 30, 2008 - 01:36pm PT
"'Glue sniffing Squishheads'
.12 Ow
Near Blanding, utah "

I'd be interested in some info about this climb, Jay. I spend a fair amount of time in the canyons around Blanding....
Churningindawake

Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 30, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
It seems that Cat in the Hat is a really classic route of Red Rocks.
Mike Pharris

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
Chris - for the Colorado list you should consider "Gambit" in Eldorado Canyon and perhaps "Pear Buttress" at Lumpy Ridge. Seems like you gotta have something at Lumpy in the Colorado list - I've not climbed it, but "Crack of Fear" on Twin Owls at Lumpy has one helluva reputation.
tomtom

Social climber
Seattle, Wa
Oct 30, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
More Routes in Washington to Consider:

Green DragOn on the Upper Town Wall at Index (fun c2 aid climb)
North Ridge of Forbidden (great setting on the quiet side of the mountain)
Rebel Yell on the East Face of Chianti Spire (6p .10a)
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 30, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
Nef, there is a description of it and the other climbs in the area, in the Bjornstead desert rock addition that covers that area.
HuecoRat

Trad climber
NJ
Oct 30, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
In New Mexico you should definitely include Warpy Moople, a brilliant 5.10 in the Sandias!

In Texas take a look at Indecent Exposure (5.9) at Hueco.

Just my 2 cents!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 30, 2008 - 06:23pm PT
I can't touch the grade, but people who oughta know say Tague Yer Time is the best route in the Black Canyon. V, 5.12.

Sea of Holes at Hueco.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
I just updated the list again. thanks for all the route suggestions
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Oct 30, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
I was going to suggest a couple of routes but the increased crowd comments brought me back to reality.
Crag Q

Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
Oct 30, 2008 - 10:24pm PT
I agree the "classics" books have been over done. However, there's a reason they're so popular. Everyone likes a nice juicy tick list. It seems like you need to put some spin on it like only include routes rated 5.9+ or only include one route per area or only include routes that can be solo-ed in roller skates. There's gotta be a new twist there.

I disagree a on the Eldo Gambit suggestion. There are much better routes in Eldo like Ruper, Vertigo, Superslab...

Also, I hardily second that Index is a phenomenal place and deserves a spot on everyone's list. Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms anyone?
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Oct 31, 2008 - 01:31am PT
Maine

Precipice Cliffs: Old Town to Return To Forever (5.9)
Three pitches. Five stars in my book. I'd put this up against any three pitch 5.9 granite climb in the country.

GO
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 31, 2008 - 02:41am PT
radical surely you jest...

100 Classic Choss Piles of the North American Rockies?

"Warning, the climbs as described in this books have most certainly changed due to the natural process which wear these mountains down at a very high rate. Additional route alteration is also inevitable due to the infrequent passage of a climbing party. The author is not responsible for the very likely fact that the geological features depicted in the topos may no longer exist. Please use this book as a suggestion for adventure and not as a literal guide to climbs, which once may have existed, but may no longer.

Finally, be aware that you are not at the top of the food chain in these regions, and that the mega-fauna are omnivores."
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Oct 31, 2008 - 06:29am PT
Chris --

Check out something called the West Ridge of Shot Tower in the Arrigetch. Let us know if you're interested joining us in the area to topo the route (and canoe back out to civilization!)

But you have to BYOP (Bring your own partner) because you would not enjoy our old-fat-and-slow pace!

Brutus
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 31, 2008 - 10:49am PT
Areas I would to see covered include the North Cascades, Index, The Enchantments, Sawtooth Range in Idaho (Elephant's Perch etc), the Bugaboos and Wind River Range.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Oct 31, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
Radical wrote: "Edit- "Goclimb", got pics?? come on..
Give us some pics, maybe I'll even fly there in the spring..
Sounds awesome!!!"

Ask and ye shall receive. Here's a pic of a friend of mine seconding Old Town. Here you can see the first 30 feet of the 5.7 first pitch:
And her husband seconding:

Sorry, no pics of Return to Forever. I think most folks are just too gripped to get out the camera!

But as a consolation prize, I'll give you another recommendation: Chitlins Corner (5.10a). Another fantastic route. P1 is also 5.7. P2 steps it up a notch to 5.10a. This one is only two pitches.

GO
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 31, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
I just returned to Acadia after a 15-year absence...Old Town was my first lead. It and Return to Forever are as good as it gets. About 250' of climbing in that combo? Chitlin Corner was 5.9+ BITD, ha. Most people will tell you that .10a is easier than 5.9+.

Some of those rap-in lines at Great Head are spectacular. They were either brand-new of a closely held secret back when I was there, but anyhow that was the highlight od the trip. None are more than a pitch or two, but in the absence of other sea-cliff climbing in this country they stand out.

Kinda curious about cap trinite'...
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Oct 31, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
I am sure somebody has said it before but doing a Supertopo guide for the Needles in CA would be nice. The 'current' guide book is worth crazy quid as I'm sure everybody knows. A real collector's edition.

I like the idea of doing '100 classic back-up climbs' in the event one treks out to do a route and finds it crowded. That's how I came to climb After Six (or is it Seven?) on Ranger Rock. Nutcracker was packed.
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
Oct 31, 2008 - 06:49pm PT
Feedback on Arizona:

Peacemaker in Cochise Stronghold? It's good but not "top 100 good." Though, you are right that Cochise must be represented. Warpaint is a MUCH higher quality slab route than Peacemaker. If you want something on Sheepshead, Absinthe of Mallet is better than Peacemaker.

My cochise top 3 list would be
Warpaint (no question about it), Abracadaver, and Wasteland
Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Oct 31, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
Feedback on AZ.

I agree that Warpaint is much more worthy than Peacemaker, Abra is a must do on a superb formation. The Wasteland is OK, but not that special IMHO. Days of Future Past perhaps?

Regards,

Steve
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 31, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
So much climbing, so little time.
TBone

Boulder climber
santa barbara, ca
Oct 31, 2008 - 09:27pm PT
Chris,

I may be echoing what others have said, but I agree that you should narrow the focus a bit. We need to define "classic". This sounds too PC to be real. You do have several bunk climbs (Shasta is beautiful, but it is a volcano). For starters I suggest you eliminate short routes, mountaineering routes, and fifty crowded classics from the list. Which rules out pretty much everything east of Pueblo (except climb Traditions on Whitesides Mountain, NC), and lots of gumball machines in the West.

You do not have New River Gorge or Joshua Tree on your list at all. If you are going to include short climbs, then that cannot be.

Also some more for Colorado like Birds of Fire-Chiefs Head, or Yellow Wall on the Diamond, astrodog in the Black, the Kor on Saber would be nice.

On Tahquitz do not forget Whodunnit is ultra classic.

Standing rock? hmmm. What about Washer Woman Tower search for suds, Sisyphus on Zeus, Jah Man on Sister, and Honeymoon Chimney on Priest?

Glad to see Lev 29 and Wild Turkeys, love those.

I am a bit disappointed that the Steck did not make your shortlist in the Valley. This is in my opinion possibly one of the finest climbs in the country. And there will never be long lines on the Steck. Sentinel gets a pass... ouch.

Also I love East Butt of Middle and Stoners Hwy and Lucky Streaks. How can Serenity to Sons not be on the list?

Ok, that's just off the top of my head, but good luck!
TBone
guycan

Trad climber
flagstaff
Oct 31, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
I'm sure everyone could add or subtract to anyone's top 100. one route not on your list, Chris; is Shune's Buttress in Zion NP.
I recently had the pleasure of doing this route: here is a teaser:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbkUhTvNqnk
dogtown

climber
Where I once was,I think?
Nov 1, 2008 - 01:11am PT
No book on Classic climbs would be complete with out The Vampire, Insomnia and Valhalla in it, if you are going to include Idyllwild area in that book.

And Gordon is right crowds have never been a problem on these routes ever.

BD
therapist

Trad climber
Woodbridge, CA
Nov 3, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
Although not a book, Gary Clark has, over many years, put together an excellent collection of 100 classic climbs in North America, complete with excellent photos, trip reports, maps and sometime topos. You can view this at: http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/other/misc/index.htm
This list has been an inspiration to me and to others. Check it out.
tenesmus

Trad climber
slc
Nov 3, 2008 - 11:30pm PT
great thread. Ron had a good point about the Utah section only containing routes from 3 areas.

How about The Dorsal Fin in LCC? Or the S-Crack to S-Direct on the Thumb in LCC?

Cracks and slabs...

One more thing, What about a side list for the top 100 crags with a top 10 at each? That way you could include crags with single pitch lines in much more accessable places...
dougs510

Social climber
down south
Nov 3, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
didn't read the whole thread, but didn't see the SS on Sentinel on the first list... for me the puke factor is HIGH on that route, mainly because of the narrows and I'm a big boy.... Kor bolt ladder..... man that's my nemesis... should be on the list, if it's not already.

D.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Nov 4, 2008 - 11:09am PT
Chris,

You are on the road to Hell with this one.......There are just too many good routes. You are brave to even consider it.

It seems to me that it might be more manageable to have something simular but different. Have the title be 100 Classic Crags in North America and then list the top ten routes in each area.

It might be harder for YOU to climb all the routes but you could delegate that role to locals and more easily get a concensis of what the really "must-do" routes are in any given area, and then all you have to do is decide which crags really deserve your attention. Any real "gem of a route" that gets left off the list becomes the fault of the locals and you can always say, "well, the locals didn't think that route was worth including on the list"....

I think 100 Classic Climbs is just too short of a list anymore with all the great climbs out there.

Anyway, just my thoughts on your idea.

JACK
timeless61

Mountain climber
Seattle
Nov 4, 2008 - 03:04pm PT
I know I’m bias but since none of my suggestions got added to the list I thought these pics my help. (Sorry Chris, you opened a can of worms!)

Gunsight Peak






Eldorado Icecap

Pickets
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Nov 4, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
Black President (5.11a)

That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!

Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
Nov 4, 2008 - 06:58pm PT
Blodgett Canyon in the Bitterroot Mtns of Montana has routes worthy of your list.

PJ.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 01:40am PT
Just added route pages for

Nightcrawler
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reranigh

and

Rainbow Wall
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rerarain
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 01:15am PT
added Calaveras Dome routes:

Calaveras Dome Wall of the Worlds - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacawall
Calaveras Dome Sands of Time -http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacasand
Calaveras Dome High Times a.k.a. Silk Road - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacahigh
H
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Nov 21, 2008 - 01:30am PT
Chris, to make a great list you would have to go on the road and put in your research. The areas that you are not familiar with are evident in your listing. Basically you need editorial consistency that come only from your perspective. With gas prices dropping, maybe now is the time to hit the road and give us updates as you do your research.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
Just added routes that Greg Barnes wrote up for the Needles!

Needles Witches Needle Igor Unchained/Airy Interlude - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=newiairy
Needles Sorcerer Needle Thin Ice - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nesothin

(yes, i still need to get to the other areas to get a better idea of the non cali areas)
KuntryKlimber

Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
Dec 11, 2008 - 02:54pm PT
radical that ain't politically correct. it's ha ling peak aint it?


also, i can attest to the brutality of the CR. still regrowing toenails lost on approaches from 5 mo ago and saw some freezing temps up high in late july.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Dec 11, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
Oregon-
Barad Dur, Wolf Rock, Oregon Cascades

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 11, 2008 - 03:26pm PT
"not too short (longer than 300-feet)"


sweet, that leaves out Josh and most cragging areas I go to.


suckahs! ;)



the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Dec 11, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
i would look at the "classic obscure routes" otherwise know as the
"museum climbs" on this forum. If that's the case i have a few to add to the list!!!!


as stated here already there are a couple of books- been there-done that.


otherwise i would go base jumping instead...
ks
Darryl Cramer

Social climber
Dec 11, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
WASHINGTON

North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Liberty Crack – Not really a great route.

North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Thin Red Line - Only first few pitches are really high quality.

Washington Pass has a lot of routes but in general the quality isn’t so high. I bet some new routes would be much better than these .

Northwest Volcanoes Mt. Rainier Liberty Ridge - No idea I’m a rock climber.

Leavenworth Snow Creek Wall Outer Space - Except for the hand crack pitches this route is far below average.

Stuart Range Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face – Yes!

Stuart Range Dragontail Peak Backbone Ridge with Fin Direct - Top is bleh.

Stuart Range Prusik Peak South Face – Yes!

Stuart Range Mt. Stuart Complete North Ridge -

Index Town Wall Green Dragon – I wouldn’t put this in as a classic.

The suggestion for Gunsight is probably a great one. For years I wanted to hike in and spend a week there but with so many new routes to do at Index I never made it. It's a mini Patagonia popping out of a glacier. I would think that any of the classic Washington routes should have that WA feel. (ie glaciers) Most of the rock routes in WA of the length you are looking for simply aren't as good as the routes in CA, but WA has something only Alaska has and that's glaciers. Some of the newer mixed routes take advantage of Washington's unique climate but they have a fairly short season.

Bear full north ridge should be included.




rockgeir

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Dec 13, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
For AZ:

i'd suggest adding "days of future passed."

also, i'd suggest removal of "peacemaker" and in its place putting "absinthe of mallet". the two routes are both on the same dome, but the latter is a far better route.

finally, i'd suggest replacing "the out of towners" with "warpaint".
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Dec 13, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
Maybe you should consider putting something from Arkansas and Kentucky in there. Classic Southern Sandstone.
In Ark. Windy Armbuster 5.10, Cat on a Hot Tin Roof 5.9+, The Natural 5.9+, Dead Dog 5.11, Edge of Flight 5.10+. Those are some of the best routes I have climbed in the USA.
They are only single pitches, but SOOOO good.

Patrick
Brendan

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Apr 25, 2009 - 01:01am PT
WEST VIRGINIA:

SENECA ROCKS:
I've climbed a ton of stuff down there/ guided right in the region. Four climbs come to mind.

-Ecstacy: 5.7, 3 pitches. Super fun. (south peak, south face)

-Soler; 5.7, 4 pitches ( a cool history too, FA in 1954 or something, totally hardman style in the tradition of old school ratings. Cant believe that was led on pitons, free.) ( south peak East face)

-Crack of Dawn: 2 Pitches 5.10a ( South peak west face)

-West Pole: 5.7, 3 pitches, Fun roofs and hand cracks.


NEW RIVER GORGE: (if you had thought about putting it in)

-Supercrack 5.9, 1 pitch, beauty mountain. Splitttttttttter hands.

-Legacy 11.a, 1 pitch. Endless wall. So beautiful.

-Fantasy 5.8, or 5.10b, 2 pitches. endless wall. Splitter hand crack to path of least resistance, or glory over hung corner to a top out mantel you'll never forget. go for the 10b way.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 25, 2009 - 01:20am PT
Oregon Cascades
Wolf Rock
Barad Dur
Nuff said.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 25, 2009 - 02:29am PT
I would delete Gambit in Eldorado in Boulder, CO. Not that classic. If you need to add another classic route in Eldorado you really should have Ruper in there. Ruper is *the* classic route in Eldorado at the moderate grade.

Also, I don't understand why Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata Peak is still on the list. As I said before, if you are rock climbing then you are off route. Don't bring a rope, rock shoes or any rock pro as you will not need them. Check out:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/la_plata/105757222

Bruce
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Apr 25, 2009 - 07:41am PT
What's a classic?

For example, Keeler Needle, Harding Route? A classic yes, historically, but as I understand it, and I could be wrong, never having been on the route, it is choss.

How about the 100 Tick List Climbs as voted for by the Taco Standers? Or something like that.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Apr 25, 2009 - 10:09am PT
Sometimes these lists can have unintended consequences. There were a number of deaths and rescues on the East ridge of Mt Temple in the Cdn Rockies within a year of Roper and Steck's book. People thought "Here is a classic and it is only 5.6 we can do that on the small cliff back home." Turns out a number of people lacked the required mountain skills.
andy@climbingmoab

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Apr 25, 2009 - 11:08am PT
I don't think routes that have been included in books like this a million times like Kor-Ingalls on Castleton should be there, especially since that route isn't very good anyway. Better for lesser known but equally good or better routes like Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest to be represented. Other Utah routes that should be there are Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon, Washer Woman, Phantom Sprint on Echo Tower, Zenyatta Entrada, and probably one of the long free routes on the Tombstones(Playing Hooky?).

In the Gunks, Shockley's is really good if you start it with Strictly from Nowhere, but otherwise lots of dull climbing to one cool roof.

Something in the Needles in South Dakota would be nice to see. Spire 3 and 4 are good and fairly long. The Needle's Eye is only one pitch but very iconic. The Conn Diagonal on Outer Outlet is very classic and 3 pitches.

Something on Sundance Buttress at Lumpy Ridge should be there - Mainliner, Kor's Flake, and Turnkorner all come to mind.

Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Apr 25, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
Timeless61, those are some sweet pix. The Cascades rock. I've only done Shuksan (1973) but my dad is from Olympia and I have a lot of relations up in that neck of the woods.
GDavis

Trad climber
Apr 25, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
I agree with Andy, having The Nose, the salathe, west buttress, Cassin ridge, etc etc is kind of a given. Probably better even still to say the 100 best ROCK climbs for the ticklist.


Areas like The Needles and Tahquitz/Suicide are underestimated when people put together big lists! I would put the following for Idyllwild:

Vampire
Open Book
Mechanics Route
Chingadera
Valhalla (!!!)
Insomnia
Flower of High Rank
Green Arch


Lots more probably coudl be considered classics... but these are in the annals of californian climbing as CLASSICS!
RDB

Social climber
way out there
Apr 25, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
WASHINGTON

Washington Pass has a lot of routes but in general the quality isn’t so high.....I bet some new routes would be much better than (Liberty Bell).....I agree.

Northwest Volcanoes Mt. Rainier....Ptarmigan Ridge is a much better an more interesting climb than Libery.

Mt Snoqulaimie, Pineapple Express (winter mixed)

Leavenworth Snow Creek Wall.......Hyperspace with the thin crack start.

Stuart Range....Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face

Stuart Range Prusik Peak.... South Face

Stuart Range Mt. Stuart...Girth Pillar

Index Town Wall...Davis Holland/Loving Arms

GRJ

climber
Juneau AK
Apr 25, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
Alaska....

There are great climbs and then there are classics. Royal Tower is great, but as far as classics go Keystone Greensteps in Valdez has to be one of the mega classics in the country.

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Apr 25, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
Seems like each state with real climbing could have its own 50-100 classics book.
GDavis

Trad climber
Apr 25, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
Or at least each state that isn't Alabama, Arkansas, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New Hampshire, New Jersey, North Carolina, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin and Guam.
Domingo

Trad climber
El Portal, CA
May 4, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
"...Alabama, Arkansas, Connecticut, Delaware...Georgia, Hawaii...Kentucky...Maine...Michigan...New Hampshire...North Carolina, North Dakota...Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin and Guam."


I second this, not because I agree, but because anything that leads people away from these states benefits me. Seriously, the climbing in West Virginia is just awful. Nobody go there.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 4, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
37 from Cali is toooo many.
andy@climbingmoab

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
May 4, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
From GDavis's list, certainly Montana, New Hampshire, North Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, and West Virginia could have fantastic top 50-100 lists, and about half of the others could have credible ones.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
AZ Classics

The Mace and Earth Angel in Sedona.

Candyland, Thin Slice, Reunion and Jump Back Jack Crack at Granite Mountain.

What's My Line, Abracadaver, Days of Future Passed and Forest Lawn at the Cochise Stronghold.

Hotline at Tom's Thumb in Phoenix.

Lizard Marmalade Direct, Leviathan Dome, Histoplasmosis, Chiboni-Quick Death- Voodoo Child on Rappel Rock and Rapture of the Steep at the Reef of Rock.

For starters....
qigongclimber

climber
May 20, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
Chris:

It's "Smith Rock", not "Smith Rocks". Please correct your list and your topo pages.
GDavis

Trad climber
May 20, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
C-MAC GOT TOLD


UPDATE YOUR LISTS HOMES



PEAx OUT
Greg Barnes

climber
May 20, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
Yeah yeah yeah - it's also "Sierra" not "Sierras", and "Red Rock" not "Red Rocks"...

I've been coming to the High Sierra since I was 10 weeks old - and I call it the Sierras all the time. The original Red Rocks guidebook was called "The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada" even though technically it's Red Rock National Conservation Area. If people want to call it Smith Rocks, so what? It is a bunch of rock formations, not one solitary rock.

If it was "officially" called Smith Rocks and there was only one rock, then there'd be more reason to complain.

Language evolves...get over it!
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
May 20, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
My 2 sheckles' worth...

Dump:

Denali West Butt
Colchuck Rock
Everything at Smith Rocks (I don't think rap-bolted routes are 'classic') - substitute - Mt Hood's Yocum Ridge- in winter of course


JAK

climber
The Souf
May 20, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
"I second this, not because I agree, but because anything that leads people away from these states benefits me. Seriously, the climbing in West Virginia is just awful. Nobody go there. "


If you think West Virginia is bad, you'd be appalled by North Carolina.
seamus mcshane

climber
May 20, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
Can anyone say Orange Blossom Wall @ T-Wall?

Pound for pound any one of these classic, albeit short routes demand recognition.

My 2 cents.

Most of these routes define classic.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Apr 19, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
For my money, the Beast Flake Variation is the best way to do recompense. It is wild, exposed, fun.

I would have included the Prow from Cathedral, too.
Jeremy Handren

climber
NV
Apr 19, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
New Hampshire and Nevada lists need some rethinking I would say, as does Toulumne.

Generally, as Randy pointed out, to much reliance on obvious, safe choices. Might be better to narrow the grade range as per Ken Wilsons Hard Rock, Classic Rock and Extreme Rock series.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 19, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
List from Arizona lacking too... there are lots of places other than Cochise with great climbing.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Apr 19, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
I wouldn't. Please don't.
Anyway, smacks of "greatest hits", most popular, pop music, etc. etc.

Arne
Messages 1 - 141 of total 141 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta