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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Chris,
You are on the road to Hell with this one.......There are just too many good routes. You are brave to even consider it.
It seems to me that it might be more manageable to have something simular but different. Have the title be 100 Classic Crags in North America and then list the top ten routes in each area.
It might be harder for YOU to climb all the routes but you could delegate that role to locals and more easily get a concensis of what the really "must-do" routes are in any given area, and then all you have to do is decide which crags really deserve your attention. Any real "gem of a route" that gets left off the list becomes the fault of the locals and you can always say, "well, the locals didn't think that route was worth including on the list"....
I think 100 Classic Climbs is just too short of a list anymore with all the great climbs out there.
Anyway, just my thoughts on your idea.
JACK
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timeless61
Mountain climber
Seattle
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I know I’m bias but since none of my suggestions got added to the list I thought these pics my help. (Sorry Chris, you opened a can of worms!)
Gunsight Peak
Eldorado Icecap
Pickets
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:30am PT
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Chris, to make a great list you would have to go on the road and put in your research. The areas that you are not familiar with are evident in your listing. Basically you need editorial consistency that come only from your perspective. With gas prices dropping, maybe now is the time to hit the road and give us updates as you do your research.
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Dec 11, 2008 - 02:54pm PT
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radical that ain't politically correct. it's ha ling peak aint it?
also, i can attest to the brutality of the CR. still regrowing toenails lost on approaches from 5 mo ago and saw some freezing temps up high in late july.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 11, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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Oregon-
Barad Dur, Wolf Rock, Oregon Cascades
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 11, 2008 - 03:26pm PT
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"not too short (longer than 300-feet)"
sweet, that leaves out Josh and most cragging areas I go to.
suckahs! ;)
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Dec 11, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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i would look at the "classic obscure routes" otherwise know as the
"museum climbs" on this forum. If that's the case i have a few to add to the list!!!!
as stated here already there are a couple of books- been there-done that.
otherwise i would go base jumping instead...
ks
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Dec 11, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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WASHINGTON
North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Liberty Crack – Not really a great route.
North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Thin Red Line - Only first few pitches are really high quality.
Washington Pass has a lot of routes but in general the quality isn’t so high. I bet some new routes would be much better than these .
Northwest Volcanoes Mt. Rainier Liberty Ridge - No idea I’m a rock climber.
Leavenworth Snow Creek Wall Outer Space - Except for the hand crack pitches this route is far below average.
Stuart Range Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face – Yes!
Stuart Range Dragontail Peak Backbone Ridge with Fin Direct - Top is bleh.
Stuart Range Prusik Peak South Face – Yes!
Stuart Range Mt. Stuart Complete North Ridge -
Index Town Wall Green Dragon – I wouldn’t put this in as a classic.
The suggestion for Gunsight is probably a great one. For years I wanted to hike in and spend a week there but with so many new routes to do at Index I never made it. It's a mini Patagonia popping out of a glacier. I would think that any of the classic Washington routes should have that WA feel. (ie glaciers) Most of the rock routes in WA of the length you are looking for simply aren't as good as the routes in CA, but WA has something only Alaska has and that's glaciers. Some of the newer mixed routes take advantage of Washington's unique climate but they have a fairly short season.
Bear full north ridge should be included.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Dec 13, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
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For AZ:
i'd suggest adding "days of future passed."
also, i'd suggest removal of "peacemaker" and in its place putting "absinthe of mallet". the two routes are both on the same dome, but the latter is a far better route.
finally, i'd suggest replacing "the out of towners" with "warpaint".
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Dec 13, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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Maybe you should consider putting something from Arkansas and Kentucky in there. Classic Southern Sandstone.
In Ark. Windy Armbuster 5.10, Cat on a Hot Tin Roof 5.9+, The Natural 5.9+, Dead Dog 5.11, Edge of Flight 5.10+. Those are some of the best routes I have climbed in the USA.
They are only single pitches, but SOOOO good.
Patrick
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Brendan
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Apr 25, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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WEST VIRGINIA:
SENECA ROCKS:
I've climbed a ton of stuff down there/ guided right in the region. Four climbs come to mind.
-Ecstacy: 5.7, 3 pitches. Super fun. (south peak, south face)
-Soler; 5.7, 4 pitches ( a cool history too, FA in 1954 or something, totally hardman style in the tradition of old school ratings. Cant believe that was led on pitons, free.) ( south peak East face)
-Crack of Dawn: 2 Pitches 5.10a ( South peak west face)
-West Pole: 5.7, 3 pitches, Fun roofs and hand cracks.
NEW RIVER GORGE: (if you had thought about putting it in)
-Supercrack 5.9, 1 pitch, beauty mountain. Splitttttttttter hands.
-Legacy 11.a, 1 pitch. Endless wall. So beautiful.
-Fantasy 5.8, or 5.10b, 2 pitches. endless wall. Splitter hand crack to path of least resistance, or glory over hung corner to a top out mantel you'll never forget. go for the 10b way.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 25, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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Oregon Cascades
Wolf Rock
Barad Dur
Nuff said.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Apr 25, 2009 - 02:29am PT
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I would delete Gambit in Eldorado in Boulder, CO. Not that classic. If you need to add another classic route in Eldorado you really should have Ruper in there. Ruper is *the* classic route in Eldorado at the moderate grade.
Also, I don't understand why Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata Peak is still on the list. As I said before, if you are rock climbing then you are off route. Don't bring a rope, rock shoes or any rock pro as you will not need them. Check out:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/la_plata/105757222
Bruce
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 25, 2009 - 07:41am PT
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What's a classic?
For example, Keeler Needle, Harding Route? A classic yes, historically, but as I understand it, and I could be wrong, never having been on the route, it is choss.
How about the 100 Tick List Climbs as voted for by the Taco Standers? Or something like that.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 25, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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Sometimes these lists can have unintended consequences. There were a number of deaths and rescues on the East ridge of Mt Temple in the Cdn Rockies within a year of Roper and Steck's book. People thought "Here is a classic and it is only 5.6 we can do that on the small cliff back home." Turns out a number of people lacked the required mountain skills.
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