SuperTopo 100 Classic Climbs in the US

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
I'm thinking of making a classic climbs book in the US.

I have started compiling a list below of potential climbs. Right now it has 110 climbs.

I am still not sure i want to do this project. I think it would be fun to come up with a dream tick list and then go climb all the routes. But, i also know that best of books have their issues.

list updated 10/28
I'm thinking of making a classic climbs book in the US.

I have started compiling a list below of potential climbs. Right now it has 110 climbs.

I am still not sure i want to do this project. I think it would be fun to come up with a dream tick list and then go climb all the routes. But, i also know that best of books have their issues.

list updated 10/30

ALASKA
Alaska Range Eye Tooth Dream in the Spirit of Mugs - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akeywpil
Alaska Range Mt. Barrill Cobra Pillar - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akbacobr
Alaska Range Denali Cassin Ridge - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akdecass
Alaska Range Denali West Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akdewbut
Alaska Range Royal Tower Gargoyle Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akrogarg

ARIZONA
Cochise Stronghold Chochise Dome What's My Line
Cochise Stronghold Sheepshead Peacemaker
Cochise Stronghold Out of Towners Dome Out of Towners
Cochise Stronghold Abracadaver
Granite Mountain?

CALIFORNIA
Calaveras Dome Wall of the Worlds - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacawall
Calaveras Dome Sands of Time -http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacasand
Calaveras Dome High Times a.k.a. Silk Road - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tacahigh
High Sierra Whitney East Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hiwhebut
High Sierra Mt. Russell Mithral Dihedral - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hirumith
High Sierra Clyde Minaret Southeast Face
High Sierra Temple Crag Sun Ribbon Arete - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hitesunr
High Sierra Incredible Hulk Positive Vibrations - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hiinposi
High Sierra Keeler Needle Harding Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hikehard
High Sierra Charlotte Dome South Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=hichsout
High Sierra Third Pillar of Dana - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tuthregu
Idyllwild Tahquitz Mechanic's Route
Idyllwild Tahquitz Open Book - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=taopenbo
Idyllwild Tahquitz Whodunit
Idyllwild Tahquitz Vampire
Lover's Leap Main Wall Corrugation Corner - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lomacorr
Lover's Leap East Wall The Line - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=loealine
Lover's Leap East Wall Travelers Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=lomatrav
Needles Witches Needle Igor Unchained/Airy Interlude - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=newiairy
Needles Sorcerer Needle Thin Ice - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nesothin
Needles- Kern River Voodoo Dome White Punks on Dope
Tuolumne Fairview Dome Regular Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tufaregu
Tuolumne Cathedral Peak Southeast Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucasout
Tuolumne Mathest Crest Traverse from South to North - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tumctrav
Tuolumne Mt. Conness West Ridge - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucowest
Yosemite Washington Column Astroman - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yowaastr
Yosemite El Capitan East Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoeleast
Yosemite Higher Cathedral Rock Northeast Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohcnort
Yosemite Higher Cathedral Rock Braille Book - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohcbrai
Yosemite Half Dome Regular Northwest Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybharegu
Yosemite Royal Arches Royal Arches - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoraroya
Yosemite El Capitan Salathé Wall - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelsala
Yosemite Half Dome Snake Dike - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohasnak
Yosemite El Capitan The Nose - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelnose
Yosemite The Rostrum North Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoronort
Mt Shasta North Side Hotum Bolum Ridge
Castle Crags The Ogre (Mt. Hubris) Cosmic Wall

COLORADO
Black Canyon National Monument North Chasm View Nose The Cruise (Scenic Cruise)
Boulder Third Flatiron East Face
Colorado National Monument Independence Monument Otto's Route
Eldorodo Canyon Bastille Crack
Eldorodo Canyon Redgarden Wall Naked Edge
Eldorodo Canyon Redgarden Wall Yellow Spur
Eldorodo Canyon Redgarden Gambit
Rocky Mtn. National Park Mt. Ypsilon Blitzen Ridge,
Rocky Mtn. National Park Diamond Casual Route
Rocky Mtn. National Park Hallett Peak Culp-Bossier route
Rocky Mtn. National Park Mt. Meeker Flying Buttress
Rocky Mtn. National Park Petit Grepon South Face
Rocky Mtn. National Park Syke's Sickle, Spearhead
Rocky Mtn. National Park Diamond, Casual Route
Sangre de Cristo Range Crestone Needle Ellingwood Ledges
Sangre de Cristo Range Kit Carson Peak South Prow
Sawatch Range La Plata Peak Ellingwood Ridge
South Platte Sheep's Nose Lost in Space
South Platte Helen's Dome-Acid Rock-Sheep Rock Tour de Platte
South Platte Cynical Pinnacle Wunches Dihedral
Hallet's Peak, Culp Bossier
Rocky Mtn. National The Petit Grepon S. Face
Lumpy Ridge Pear Buttress

IDAHO
Sawtooth Mountains Elephant's Perch Mountaineer's Route
McCall Slick Rock Regular Route

NEVADA
Red Rocks Cloud Tower Crimson Chrysalis - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reclcrim
Red Rocks Black Velvet Canyon Dream of Wild Turkeys (include Prince and Yellow) - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rebldrea
Red Rocks Rainbow Wall Original Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rerarain
Red Rocks Black Velvet Canyon Epinephrine - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reblepin
Red Rocks Eagle Wall Levitation 29 - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reealevi
Red Rocks Solar Slab - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols
Red Rocks Nightcrawler - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reranigh
Red Rocks Angel Food Wall Tunnel Vision - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=reantunn
Red Rocks Jackrabbit Buttress Geronimo - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=rejagero
Red Rocks Cat in The Hat - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=remecati

NEW HAMPSHIRE
Cannon Cliff Cannon Cliff VMC Direct Direct
Cannon Cliff Cannon Cliff Whitney-Gilman
Cathedral Ledge Cathedral Ledge Thin Air
Cathedral Ledge Cathedral Ledge Recompense
Whitehorse Ledge Whitehorse Ledge Standard Route
Whitehorse Ledge Whitehorse Ledge

NEW MEXICO
Questa Dome Questa Dome Questa Direct
Sandias Warpy Moople

NEW YORK
Gunks High Exposure (Directissima Var.)
Gunks Shockley's Ceiling
Gunks Erect Direction
Gunks Bonnies Roof
Adirondacs Pok-o-moonshine
Adirondacs Chapel Pond Slab

NORTH CAROLINA
Looking Glass Looking Glass Cornflake
Looking Glass Looking Glass Glass Minagerie
Stone Mountain State Park Stone Mountains Grand Funk Railroad
Whitesides Whitesides Original Route
Laurel Knob Fathom Direct

OREGON
Smith Rocks Monkey's Face Pioneer Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=smmopion
Smith Rocks Monkey's Face West Face Variation
Smith Rocks Sunshine Wall Zebra/Zion - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=smmgzebr

UTAH
Castle Valley Castleton Tower North Face
Castle Valley Castleton Tower Kor Ingalls - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=decakori
Castle Valley The Rectory Fine Jade - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=derefine
Canyonlands Moses Primrose Dihedrals - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=demoprim
Canyonlands Standing Rock Kor Route
Fisher Towers Ancient Art Stolen Chimney Route - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=deanstol
Fisher Towers Titan Finger of Fate - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=detifing
Zion Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=zianmoon
Zion Angel's Landing Northeast Buttress
Zion Shunes Buttress
Indian Creek North Six Shooter - Lightning Bolt Cracks - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=denoligh


WASHINGTON
North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Liberty Crack - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwlilibe
North Cascades Liberty Bell Mountain Thin Red Line - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwlithin
Northwest Volcanoes Mt. Rainier Liberty Ridge
Leavenworth Snow Creek Wall Outer Space - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwsnoute
Stuart Range Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwcowfac
Stuart Range Dragontail Peak Backbone Ridge with Fin Direct - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwdrback
Stuart Range Prusik Peak South Face - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwprsfac
Stuart Range Mt. Stuart Complete North Ridge - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=nwstnrid
Index Town Wall Green Dragon
N. Early Winter Spire West Face
N. Early Winter Spire Northwest Corner
Chianti Spire East Face Rebel Yell

WEST VIRGINIA
Seneca Rocks?

WYOMING
Devils Tower Durrance Route
Devils Tower Walt Bailey Memorial
Tetons Grand Teton Direct Exum Ridge
Tetons Mt. Owen Serendipity Ridge
Tetons Irene's Arete
Tetons Cathedral Rock The Snaz
Tetons Caveat Emptor
Wind Rivers Wolf's Head East Ridge
Wind Rivers Ellingwood Peak North Aréte
Wind Rivers Pingora Northeast Face
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
I'd welcome an updated list personally. It could illuminate a lot of great routes for folks and I'd love to hear the detailed history on them.
Anastasia

climber
Not there
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
Nice! I like it!
AF
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
Wow....I've got a long way to go.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
Keep it up Chris (no pun intended).
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Oct 27, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
My advice is no. They will become the 100 supercrowded classics.

I'd rather you spent your time on topos for new areas or adding new climbs to current areas.

SEKI and Needles could use some supertopo quality treatment!
Chris2

Trad climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
Having met a few people trying to do all the "Fifty Classics," this could create a new challenge.
Tez

Mountain climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
This list was created over the course of a few years: http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/other/misc/index.htm
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
'They will become the 100 supercrowded classics.'

Most already are. Not a lot of big secrets on that list.

I wonder how these books sell- the Roper/Steck did pretty well; how about the 50 Favorites? Did they make money on that? Most of those routes are pretty hard, too, not so attainable for Joe Supertopo, but the book still did OK I think, judging from peoples' bookshelves.


looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:07pm PT
There are so many routes at Tahquitz better than the Mechanics Route (which is also rather run out). And it is hard to take the selection seriously without including The Vampire -- hands down the best route in the area.

Fish Hook on Russell? Mithral is the obvious choice -- an amazing line.

The Snaz is the "safe" (and already overcrowded) choice, but Caveat Emptor is very much the superior climb.

Arizona -- Granite Mt has some amazing climbs.

Overall the list is perhaps too safe.

Glad you decided to exclude Josh, nothing worthwhile there at all.



SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
Chris
I'm surpised you didn't add any route on the Diamond,
east face of Long's Peak in Colorado, say the Casual Route,
Yellow Wall. . . D7.
Culp Bossier on Hallet's Peak
The Petit Grepon
In Utah there could be tons more. . .
Great idea, though!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
He didn't - quite. The northeast buttress of Slesse is in Canada, and approached from Canada.

There's something to be said for a North American aspect to it - Canada + Mexico + other place. Though winnowing it down to 100 would be hard - maybe 500 or 1,000 would do it. Especially if you're including both rock and alpine climbs.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:17pm PT
Tami, Just a though, but it could be that Canada has so many great climbs it would overshadow other good routes in the US... Oh, and it was titled 100 Classic Climbs in the US...

Edit: Oops looks like a Canuk route slipped in there anyway...
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Just put in 110 routes and advertise "10% extra free bonus climbs"

Why lock into the standard number?

;-)

Karl
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Chris,

I would toss out Colorado, Ellingwood Arete on La Plata Peak. For the vast majority of the ridge, 20 feet down and east of the ridge crest is a class 2 trail. Yeah, there is probably a pitch of low 5th class about 3/4 of the way up the route, but if you do anymore 5th class climbing (or 4th class climbing for that matter) on this route you are going way out of your way to avoid easy trail hiking.

The climb is a major fun outing, but there really isn't much rock climbing at all.

Bruce
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
Listing the Mechanic's Route on Tahquitz would likely increase the traffic eight or nine fold. A good route, but a surprisingly unheralded one that doesn't see all that much traffic, unlike most of the other routes listed.

Too be honest, while it's hard to argue with your route selection, I'm just as happy to see certain routes excluded lest I have to stand in line to climb them once the book comes out.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
How about 100 Classic Unknowns..spread out the traffic a bit. Or would that just ruin a bunch of locals' favorites?

BTW, the Nose on Looking Glass has pretty average climbing, isn't especially sustained, and really has little else going for it besides historical value. Other neighboring routes in the Nose area offer a lot more of that 'sea of brows' feeling, ie. Peregrine. Hard to beat the Cornflake for all of the above: great climbing, historically significant, cool ledges, and no one's calling it a 1-move wonder. Or Tits and Beer, at 5.9. Uh, Stone Mountain?

The North Chimney on Castleton is okay, but its principal virtue is the accessible grade. The North Face is way better.

Otto's Route is decidedly non-classic, as far as the climbing goes- lots of 4th-class gullies, lots of drilled holds, and a cool topout pitch do not a classic make. It's unique, thank god for that, but not exactly stacked with great pitches.





TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
I an see choosing the Durrance Route on Devils Tower for historical reasons, but there are much better lines in my opinion...
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
Given that there are already two other books out there and the website which expanded the original 50 Classics I would say skip the project and work on the guides.

Besides with any list there will be lots of griping. For instance, nothing was listed at Seneca Rocks, The Gunks, Linville Gorge, etc. All have classic multipitch climbs. And of course Steck and Roper caught lots of comments about the list being CA centric. This list is the same.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Oct 27, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
Chris - there are some classics at Index, WA, particularly the upper wall.

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