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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Hi All!
This thread really got me stoked. I always find that Mountian's Czech and German Sandstone articles are really great and they published quite a few of them over the years.
Sooooooo... I've been planning a return trip there ever since I got back. Anybody want to go? Say end of September? I'll ride my bike over there and just generally dirtbag it, so if that's your thing come on over. At least we won't be needing a large rack.
Any takers?
Lasti
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2008 - 11:22am PT
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Not me at the moment but down the road a bit I would love to check it out!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Sep 11, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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Too bad Steve. I was about to post something along the lines of:
And with an actual call to actual climbing, the thread died.
So anyway, if someone wants to do the paprika thing, drop me an email.
Cheers,
János
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Shrug
Trad climber
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Sep 11, 2008 - 12:03pm PT
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Very cool, Thanks for posting, my father used to climb in Czech back in the 60's. Sadly he recalls only a fews pictures of himself on a route and can't seem to find any.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2008 - 12:07pm PT
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Real climbing!?! Wha-wha-wha-whutz that?
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Loomis
climber
o(>_
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Sep 13, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Czech ring bolts are bomber... Just so far apart!
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Sep 17, 2008 - 04:28am PT
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Very Cool. Kinda has the Yoda "Do or Do Not; there is no try" element to it.
Stve you bring some great history here to the stand!
Aloha,
wil
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
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Another excellent survey by Vladimir Prochazka from Climbing May- June 1981. Happy Thanksgiving!!!!!
I rested on the shoulder before leaving the belay! LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:43am PT
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Czech your head!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 18, 2008 - 12:15pm PT
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This is a great thread! Thanks, Steve. I found climbing in Czech Republic to be one of the scariest and most beautiful places I've ever climbed. The potential to deck before you clip your first giant iron ring is huge (as they are sometimes like 30 feet off the ground), and the knotted cords and slings don't give you a ton o' confidence after that. But man, being there (at least in Cesky Raj) is almost other-worldly. Definitely a destination. Beautiful!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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Photos?!?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 18, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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I only took about 3 photos of the formations themselves, and I have no clue where they are now.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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How did you find out about the local protection customs?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 26, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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I met up with a guy who lived in Podebrady. He was the brother of a foreign exchange student I'd gotten to know in California. He told me the whole spiel on not using any metalic gear, so it was all knotted slings and iron rings. It's kinda hard (for me, anyway!) to launch off on a route that is dead vertical like most of them are, knowing that what you're gonna place (or clip) may be so manky, or so far off the deck, that a grounder feels like an ever-present threat. But man, it's an incredibly beautiful place to be!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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I was trying to look up the rules for bolting on the cliffs but could only find some articles in German. I couldn't read the articles Grossman posted cuz the script is a little small...
Does anyone know the acceptable rules for placing a bolt on a first ascent?
I had heard that sometimes the leader will twist a hand drill into the soft rock until it was deep enough to hang off and place a larger bolt? Is this true? accepted practice?
Thanks ahead of time!
-jb
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Bump 'cause this is a cool thread.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Bump...
Still want to know if anybody is familiar with first ascent bolting practices in the area?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I had heard that sometimes the leader will twist a hand drill into the soft rock until it was deep enough to hang off and place a larger bolt? Is this true? accepted practice?"
It was done that way as recently as the seventies-- I've seen pictures of the leader hanging while placing. Pretty beefy drills. It also was considered in bounds to place (and climb) from a shoulder stand.
And not all the bolts are incredibly widely spaced. At least one of the areas I visited had a bunch of slab climbs with ring bolts spaced much more closely than you might see in the Meadows or even in Josh. Not quite sport climbing, but what would once have been considered good pro.
idk how widely these are still done, nor how widely things differ from the German to the Czech side.
How's your Deutsch? Tons of German forums where you could find an easy answer.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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klk,
Thanks for the info. I've heard the same thing. A small dill is used to start a hole and then the leader puts in a bigger drill bit and while hanging on it he continues to drill the hole to full depth.
I think I found some "rules" on a German website but I can't understand any of it.
Any new info would be much appreciated!
Edit: I found this on a website (udini.com ?) with some great photos of the climbing there... Is this Bernd Arnold?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I think I found some "rules" on a German website but I can't understand any of it."
Post it and I'll take a stab at translating. I know there's other folks here with German, too. Bohrhaken is Deutsch for bolt. Elbsandstein will help you avoid all the stuff for Frankenjura and other sport areas. I don't have time to search today, sorry.
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