Classic Czech Climbing History 1983

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 30, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
Since these are such wild and crazy, tower leaping, runout loving folks!!!A couple of the early articles on Czech climbing history in order of appearance. The first from Mountain 89 Jan/Feb 1983. Love those shoulder stands!








philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Aug 30, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
Too COOL! Thanks for posting.
NMClimber

climber
Carlsbad Ca
Aug 30, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
Outstanding!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 30, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
Those are some funny pics, Steve.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2008 - 12:09am PT
Some pretty cool bridging going on gettin' around town, Czech style.
east side underground

Trad climber
crowley ca
Aug 31, 2008 - 12:49am PT
Hey Steve, reminded me of the trip to Czech. with the late M. Strassman. Cheers.
Loomis

climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
Aug 31, 2008 - 03:44am PT
I really miss living in Czech and Slovensko republics, many great climbing areas and good people there.
Thanks for posting that Steve! Scott
Na zdravi!
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 31, 2008 - 11:06am PT
Cool article Steve!

My son Braden just flew home from there, and sent me these pics of a climb he did last week.

"I was scared leading this climb, trying to wedge knots in the cracks. This route was first climbed in a very similar style over 100 years ago, 1908..."


of course they had a mission besides just climbing the nice tower...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2008 - 11:21am PT
Any snapshots Murray?!?

Any of you guys ever placed a babyhead?
Alois

Social climber
Idyllwild, California
Aug 31, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
Steve Grossman and Scott Loomis, you are making me home sick! Learned to climb at Alcatraz in Srbsko (Scott knows the place and he knows my cousin in Karlstejn, no kidding) and on Decinske Steny. At 14, I got a licence to ride a motorcycle, so I would drive to Decin every weekend to climb. What a place Decin was in 1962, not many people there and those who were there on weekends were really good people. Wonderful memories sitting here in Idyllwild, CA. in 2008. There is some incredible sandstone climbing there in the Czech Republic along the Elbe river, if you can, go czeck it out.
east side underground

Trad climber
crowley ca
Sep 1, 2008 - 10:54am PT
Steve, I think there is some czech. footage in the climb europe vid. I'm a camera-less fool. Love-ya Murry P.s. whats a babyhead?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 1, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
it's going down
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 1, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
can someone take over while I go for coffee?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 1, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
bump
Loomis

climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
Sep 1, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
The "baby head" is the only piece you will see on this guys harness, also the only piece he will be able to place on this climb.
(a piece of climbing rope braided into various sized balls, used for protection)
Czech sandstone has strict rules protecting it, one of them is that no metal equipment may be used for climbing, other than bolts.
Most of the bolts there are very far apart, except for the newer routes.

P,S, Steve, yes I have placed a few "baby heads"
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
These are the masters of jammed knots and threads much like their cohorts in Dresden. Need to protect some wide stuff? Enter the largest of knots---nicknamed babyheads. I was hoping somebody has a shot of one!
Thanks Scott!
Loomis

climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
Sep 1, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
Just to make Alois Smrž more home sick, pictures of Srbsko Skaly.

Jana Lukášová, my ex, climbing at Srbsko Skaly

Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
Sep 1, 2008 - 10:14pm PT
This guy looks like he was born on a rock ,does he have that Mojo dialed or what?
Is he after birds nest soup
No, Paprika, you fool, read the small print.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
Round Two No metal please!

From Mountain 94 Dec/Jan 1983-84. Long history of climbing to say the least!









Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
Sep 3, 2008 - 05:24am PT
Cool stuff!

All the more reason to be a climber if the Gestapo does not like the naturfeunde. Hey, they had reason to be paranoid!

The Climbers Resistance - mail exchange, these guys were way cool.
Imagine having the cajones to climb knowing that some jackass with a Luger wouldn't mind using you for target practice.

Yeah, thats usually a 5.6, unless Heir Needledick happens to be in a bad mood, then its a 5.17AK.

Ahh, now the rope knot makes sense, "yeah, easy with the hammer,
we don't want to wake up the secret police." Good Lordy, balls deluxe.
Too much, very good reading I read the whole thing, thank you.
Sandstone is the way. So many grip variations, you could bolt every square inch of a gym with holds and still not even come close to the variety you get.
And those reach thru gripper holds are insanely cool.

3000 towers and 10,000 routes, I hike a few miles for one wall jeezus h, but as long as you are climbing, wtf, over?

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