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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 30, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
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Since these are such wild and crazy, tower leaping, runout loving folks!!!A couple of the early articles on Czech climbing history in order of appearance. The first from Mountain 89 Jan/Feb 1983. Love those shoulder stands!
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 30, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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Too COOL! Thanks for posting.
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NMClimber
climber
Carlsbad Ca
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Aug 30, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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Outstanding!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 30, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
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Those are some funny pics, Steve.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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Some pretty cool bridging going on gettin' around town, Czech style.
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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Aug 31, 2008 - 12:49am PT
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Hey Steve, reminded me of the trip to Czech. with the late M. Strassman. Cheers.
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Loomis
climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
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Aug 31, 2008 - 03:44am PT
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I really miss living in Czech and Slovensko republics, many great climbing areas and good people there.
Thanks for posting that Steve! Scott
Na zdravi!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 31, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Cool article Steve!
My son Braden just flew home from there, and sent me these pics of a climb he did last week.
"I was scared leading this climb, trying to wedge knots in the cracks. This route was first climbed in a very similar style over 100 years ago, 1908..."
of course they had a mission besides just climbing the nice tower...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2008 - 11:21am PT
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Any snapshots Murray?!?
Any of you guys ever placed a babyhead?
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Aug 31, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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Steve Grossman and Scott Loomis, you are making me home sick! Learned to climb at Alcatraz in Srbsko (Scott knows the place and he knows my cousin in Karlstejn, no kidding) and on Decinske Steny. At 14, I got a licence to ride a motorcycle, so I would drive to Decin every weekend to climb. What a place Decin was in 1962, not many people there and those who were there on weekends were really good people. Wonderful memories sitting here in Idyllwild, CA. in 2008. There is some incredible sandstone climbing there in the Czech Republic along the Elbe river, if you can, go czeck it out.
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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Steve, I think there is some czech. footage in the climb europe vid. I'm a camera-less fool. Love-ya Murry P.s. whats a babyhead?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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it's going down
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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can someone take over while I go for coffee?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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bump
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Loomis
climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
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The "baby head" is the only piece you will see on this guys harness, also the only piece he will be able to place on this climb.
(a piece of climbing rope braided into various sized balls, used for protection)
Czech sandstone has strict rules protecting it, one of them is that no metal equipment may be used for climbing, other than bolts.
Most of the bolts there are very far apart, except for the newer routes.
P,S, Steve, yes I have placed a few "baby heads"
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
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These are the masters of jammed knots and threads much like their cohorts in Dresden. Need to protect some wide stuff? Enter the largest of knots---nicknamed babyheads. I was hoping somebody has a shot of one!
Thanks Scott!
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Loomis
climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
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Just to make Alois Smr more home sick, pictures of Srbsko Skaly.
Jana Lukáová, my ex, climbing at Srbsko Skaly
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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This guy looks like he was born on a rock ,does he have that Mojo dialed or what?
Is he after birds nest soup
No, Paprika, you fool, read the small print.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
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Round Two No metal please!
From Mountain 94 Dec/Jan 1983-84. Long history of climbing to say the least!
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Cool stuff!
All the more reason to be a climber if the Gestapo does not like the naturfeunde. Hey, they had reason to be paranoid!
The Climbers Resistance - mail exchange, these guys were way cool.
Imagine having the cajones to climb knowing that some jackass with a Luger wouldn't mind using you for target practice.
Yeah, thats usually a 5.6, unless Heir Needledick happens to be in a bad mood, then its a 5.17AK.
Ahh, now the rope knot makes sense, "yeah, easy with the hammer,
we don't want to wake up the secret police." Good Lordy, balls deluxe.
Too much, very good reading I read the whole thing, thank you.
Sandstone is the way. So many grip variations, you could bolt every square inch of a gym with holds and still not even come close to the variety you get.
And those reach thru gripper holds are insanely cool.
3000 towers and 10,000 routes, I hike a few miles for one wall jeezus h, but as long as you are climbing, wtf, over?
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Hi All!
This thread really got me stoked. I always find that Mountian's Czech and German Sandstone articles are really great and they published quite a few of them over the years.
Sooooooo... I've been planning a return trip there ever since I got back. Anybody want to go? Say end of September? I'll ride my bike over there and just generally dirtbag it, so if that's your thing come on over. At least we won't be needing a large rack.
Any takers?
Lasti
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2008 - 11:22am PT
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Not me at the moment but down the road a bit I would love to check it out!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Sep 11, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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Too bad Steve. I was about to post something along the lines of:
And with an actual call to actual climbing, the thread died.
So anyway, if someone wants to do the paprika thing, drop me an email.
Cheers,
János
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Shrug
Trad climber
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Sep 11, 2008 - 12:03pm PT
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Very cool, Thanks for posting, my father used to climb in Czech back in the 60's. Sadly he recalls only a fews pictures of himself on a route and can't seem to find any.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2008 - 12:07pm PT
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Real climbing!?! Wha-wha-wha-whutz that?
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Loomis
climber
o(>_
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Sep 13, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Czech ring bolts are bomber... Just so far apart!
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Sep 17, 2008 - 04:28am PT
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Very Cool. Kinda has the Yoda "Do or Do Not; there is no try" element to it.
Stve you bring some great history here to the stand!
Aloha,
wil
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
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Another excellent survey by Vladimir Prochazka from Climbing May- June 1981. Happy Thanksgiving!!!!!
I rested on the shoulder before leaving the belay! LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:43am PT
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Czech your head!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 18, 2008 - 12:15pm PT
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This is a great thread! Thanks, Steve. I found climbing in Czech Republic to be one of the scariest and most beautiful places I've ever climbed. The potential to deck before you clip your first giant iron ring is huge (as they are sometimes like 30 feet off the ground), and the knotted cords and slings don't give you a ton o' confidence after that. But man, being there (at least in Cesky Raj) is almost other-worldly. Definitely a destination. Beautiful!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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Photos?!?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 18, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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I only took about 3 photos of the formations themselves, and I have no clue where they are now.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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How did you find out about the local protection customs?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 26, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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I met up with a guy who lived in Podebrady. He was the brother of a foreign exchange student I'd gotten to know in California. He told me the whole spiel on not using any metalic gear, so it was all knotted slings and iron rings. It's kinda hard (for me, anyway!) to launch off on a route that is dead vertical like most of them are, knowing that what you're gonna place (or clip) may be so manky, or so far off the deck, that a grounder feels like an ever-present threat. But man, it's an incredibly beautiful place to be!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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I was trying to look up the rules for bolting on the cliffs but could only find some articles in German. I couldn't read the articles Grossman posted cuz the script is a little small...
Does anyone know the acceptable rules for placing a bolt on a first ascent?
I had heard that sometimes the leader will twist a hand drill into the soft rock until it was deep enough to hang off and place a larger bolt? Is this true? accepted practice?
Thanks ahead of time!
-jb
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Bump 'cause this is a cool thread.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Bump...
Still want to know if anybody is familiar with first ascent bolting practices in the area?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I had heard that sometimes the leader will twist a hand drill into the soft rock until it was deep enough to hang off and place a larger bolt? Is this true? accepted practice?"
It was done that way as recently as the seventies-- I've seen pictures of the leader hanging while placing. Pretty beefy drills. It also was considered in bounds to place (and climb) from a shoulder stand.
And not all the bolts are incredibly widely spaced. At least one of the areas I visited had a bunch of slab climbs with ring bolts spaced much more closely than you might see in the Meadows or even in Josh. Not quite sport climbing, but what would once have been considered good pro.
idk how widely these are still done, nor how widely things differ from the German to the Czech side.
How's your Deutsch? Tons of German forums where you could find an easy answer.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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klk,
Thanks for the info. I've heard the same thing. A small dill is used to start a hole and then the leader puts in a bigger drill bit and while hanging on it he continues to drill the hole to full depth.
I think I found some "rules" on a German website but I can't understand any of it.
Any new info would be much appreciated!
Edit: I found this on a website (udini.com ?) with some great photos of the climbing there... Is this Bernd Arnold?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I think I found some "rules" on a German website but I can't understand any of it."
Post it and I'll take a stab at translating. I know there's other folks here with German, too. Bohrhaken is Deutsch for bolt. Elbsandstein will help you avoid all the stuff for Frankenjura and other sport areas. I don't have time to search today, sorry.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Yeah, that's Arnold (bernd or Berndt-- I've seen both spellings). Never met him, but I've heard that he's a nice guy.
From yr udini cite:
A modern photo of Bernd Arnold on one of his first ascents . . .
First ascents by outsiders are rare here"
"Ein modernes Foto von Bernd Arnold bei einer Erstbegehung im Elbsandstein. Was passiert falls die rote Knotenschlinge rauskommt? Oder kann das nicht passieren weil ja die violette Knotenschlinge drunterliegt? Knotenschlingen, so weit das Auge reicht, wann kommt der nächste Haken? Sehr mutig das Ganze! Erstbegehungen von Nicht-Franken sind wohl eher selten..."
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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http://www.saxony-switzerland.de/
Does this have to do with anything?
2.5 Benutzung der Ringe
Ringe dienen zur Sicherung des Kletterers. Sie dürfen nicht zur
Unterstützung der Kletterbewegung benutzt werden. Die Verwendung
von Hilfsmitteln, die zum Einhängen des Seils in den Ring dienen, gilt
als unsportlich. Wird die Kletterei am Ring unterbrochen, ist sie beim
Weitersteigen in der Kletterstellung aufzunehmen, in der sie
unterbrochen wurde. Ringe von benachbarten oder kreuzenden Wegen
dürfen benutzt werden, wenn damit keine wesentliche Abweichung vom
Wegverlauf verbunden ist.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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It's just telling you how you are supposed to treat rings that are already in place. Do you have the link to the page? It may have more.
I gather that in some areas first ascents must be approved by a local committee-- portions of Elbsandstein are in a Nature Preserve --and climbing is not the only thing that is regulated or semi-regulated or just watched over closely by the locals. Again, I've not climbed on teh Czech side and don't read or speak Czech. You can get around there in German or even maybe w. English, but the recent published stuff tends to be in Czech.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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about the bolting rules - there was a great article in one of the issues of Alpinist where an old school Czech climber told the story of one of his favorite first ascents - "The Kalamarka Arete" was the name of the route and the story. They had a sidebar with a very detailed description of the bolting rules, including photos of all of the equipment.
My memory is that John is correct - if there is no stance from which to drill a bolt / ring, the leader pounds in a small chisel-looking thing, and hangs from that while drilling the hole for the full-size ring.
I'll look later to see which issue of Alpinist contained that article.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Grossman,
There was also a piece in Climbing from '77-78 about Henry Barber climbing there, barefoot like the locals, expressing his awe about Bernd Arnold. Very cool piece.
I almost had a chance to climb there thru a climbing exchange sponsored by the AAC in 1986 I think. I had applied, hadn't heard anything and had a chance to got to Paris for a month to study French at Sorbonne while finishing up as an undergrad. Blew the last of my hard earned change getting there.
I fly home and find this envelope sitting in my room. It'd been sitting there since a few days after I left for Paris. The letter says I've been selected and I need to be in Prague in four weeks, or about two or three days after I first find the letter. My folks apparently didn't want to open my mail and so didn't have any way of telling me.
So there I am broke after a nice month in Paris, without any way of affording the plane ticket. I had to call Ad Carter, the guy who arranged the trip and let him know. Man was he pissed!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Yes Henry told me when he climbed with Bernd Arnold, he would start a hole with a small bit and then switch to a larger bit and then hang off it while hammering the hole to completion - all the time using the same hole. He also was in awe I think...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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I'm invoking my prerogative to bump this:
#1 Out of sympathy for Fat Dad
#2 It is Bedrich Smetana's birthday
#3 I am 1/4 Bohemian
#4 It is a gud thread
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Jim Lawyer
climber
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I was having dinner recently at the Ratskeller in Hohnstein, the small town where Bernd lives. As part of our routine, we were leafing though the guidebooks to pick out the next days climbs, when in walks Bernd Arnold with his entourage. Seeing that we're climbers, he comes right up to our table and, pretty soon, begins rattling off a tick list of must-do classics. I don't speak a word of german, but he's looking right at me and speaking so ernestly and enthusiastically. He eventually caught on that I was clueless -- perhaps I was smiling and nodding at the wrong moments -- so he racked his brain for the right english words..."ARM BAR", he said with a heavy accent.
I fancy myself a decent crack climber, but as anyone that's climbed cracks in the Elbsandstein can tell you, these parallel-sided cracks require advanced knot skills and a solo mentality. The words "arm bar", loosely translated, means no protection whatsoever.
After he left, I scratched that route off my list.
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marde
climber
Germany
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Does this have to do with anything?
2.5 Benutzung der Ringe
Ringe dienen zur Sicherung des Kletterers. Sie dürfen nicht zur
Unterstützung der Kletterbewegung benutzt werden. Die Verwendung
von Hilfsmitteln, die zum Einhängen des Seils in den Ring dienen, gilt
als unsportlich. Wird die Kletterei am Ring unterbrochen, ist sie beim
Weitersteigen in der Kletterstellung aufzunehmen, in der sie
unterbrochen wurde. Ringe von benachbarten oder kreuzenden Wegen
dürfen benutzt werden, wenn damit keine wesentliche Abweichung vom
Wegverlauf verbunden ist.
I just translated this for you:
Use of ringbolts
Rings are only to be used for protection of the climber. You are not allowed to use them for aiding the climbing moves. The use of devices that help you clipping the rope into the ringbolt is considered poor style. If you rest on a ringbolt you have to continue in the same position as you were in before.
Ringbolts of neighboring or crossing routes can be used if it means you don't really leave the original route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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Here is an interesting historical tidbit.
When Fritz Wiessner was faced with a long section of difficult 5.8 offwidth during the first roped ascent of the Devil's Tower, he brought along some babyheads in hopes of getting some protection! Made them up on the spot. No mention of whether he used them in any way.
Fritz, William House and Lawrence Coveney made the first roped ascent on June 28, 1937.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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You-wish-you-were-this-tough bump
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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bump for the real deal!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Hey JB, here's a little info on the bolting situation, taken from the Climbing Regulations of the Sächsischer (sounds like sexy Cher?) Bergsteiger Bund.
Given the love of passive voice in the beautiful German tounge and my time restraints (though this is better than working - then again, what isn't?) some sentences seem a bit botched, but I guess you'll get your head around that.
Detailed rules are as follows:
(ATTENTION READER: The following rules and restrictions must be read aloud, if possible at full volume, preferably in a black leather jacket, if feasible with wild hand gestures involving truncheon-waving and, quite frankly, your best mad German scientist / Gestapo officer accent is a prerequisite for full enjoyment.)
3.1 All climbers have a right to establish a new route. To stake a claim, you have to report your attempt and mark the project with a sling in a Ringbolt or some other appropriate manner. Your claim to the route lasts for three years after the first attempt. If someone succeeds on the route before the three years is up, the FA shall not be recognized.
3.2 Reporting of projects is to be done within 4 weeks of the first attempt to the local Fachkommission.
3.3 Top-rope attempts, rap inspection and any other unsportsmanlike behaviour is not allowed during an FA.
3.4 No hangdogging, all attempts must start from the ground. As a ground rule all routes should finish at the summit. The character and line of other routes may not be altered in any way for the sake of the new route. Routes should follow a natural line and adapt to the rock. Generosity is a very important trait, especially with variants. Combinations of older routes will not be recognized as new routes. Smaller variations will not be recognized as new routes, but may be shown in the guidebook. The first ascensionist is responsible for proper protection of the route. When no natural protection is to be had, rings should be placed. The rings have to be accessible by means of climbing the route from the ground, i.e. placement of rings from traverses, abseil etc. is not allowed.
(The Commentary goes into great detail about the distance needed between two routes, giving a minimum of two meters (six feet) but calling for the use of common sense in order to make sure that new routes are separate lines and also to prevent the faint-hearted from using the holds and more importantly the rings in a nearby route.)
3.5 While drilling a hole you either: do it form a stance, use a bit of seilschling (basically either knot-chock, thread or slung over some feature), use a skyhook or use the hole you are drilling. You can also drill a ring from unterstütz, standing on top of each other. Everything else is forbidden (nuts, cams, whatever). Reaching the ring and clipping it must be possible from the route. Rings must be placed in a way that a minimal number of rings with a maximum distance between them are used for sufficient protection. A minimum distance is three meters/9 feet (very rarely, e.g. in cases where there is a danger of decking on a ledge or something like that, you can go closer). Nevertheless, a distance of at least 5 meters/15 feet is recommended. You should keep these distances from the rings of other routes as well, if your route crosses, merges or branches off one of these. No changes may be made in the older routes rings. If you branch off of an existing route, a ring may be authorised by the Fachkommission only if it does not change the character of the climb. If a ring could only be partially placed, it is allowed to abseil to it after the FA and fix the ring. All holes that were drilled but did not eventually have a ring driven into must be closed immediately (this means the little hole drilled for support while drilling and those of replaced rings).
3.6 The position of rings may be changed only if you change the line, or your claim to the line expires and another climber does the FA. When placing a ring elsewhere you can not use the old ring for protection, you have to abide the original rules.
3.7 The first ascensionist can place additional rings within 4 weeks of the FA if necessary, always respecting the rules laid down in 3.5. The local Fachkommission also has the right to place rings (following consultation with the FAist) if the in-situ rings do not provide sufficient safety.
I guess that just about wraps it up. Having seen the rules, it is important to note that all the minimum-distance, no changing of lines and other traditionalist business is not at all taken lightly by our German Bergbrüdern. I've seen men with 3-meter lengths of cord inspecting routes that were suspect. I've read minutes of meetings of Fachkommission (once again shouted, with hand held forward, or upward in a fist to be less obvious) where the members got into heated debate whether a ring on an old route should be placed 12 inches to the left or right beacause of the new route starting from that point. All membersinvolved in the debate inspected the routes and the ring in question beforehand, not leaving any place for hearsay and other influences. It was quite obvious, that these rules are taken very, very sincerely.
For the inquiring Tacoan:
http://www.bergsteigerbund.de/kletterregeln.htm
Berg Heil!
Lasti
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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Great clarification, Lasti! Thanks for posting up the concensus FA and drilling requirements. Nice level playing field for everybody.
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Apr 12, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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No metal protection only knotted rope.
No chalk.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 12, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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Stevie, here is that nice two page photo, merged:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Nice work Peter! My copy has a bit of water damage to boot.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 13, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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Yeah Steve, the playing field is level but the level of play is out of the field.
I've found that you can get a good working-over from routes literally a hundred years old. Soaring chimneys climbed in 1902 that can make a grown man cry are always a favorite, but these people climbed hard when 'old school' was just 'school'.
Kuniskante was climbed in 1921 and is rated VIIIb or about 5.10d. Rostkante in 1922, same rating. Taking into account that these routes have no more than 2-3 pieces of pro in 70-80 feet, and that these were all placed on lead... Let's just say them nice aretes still give you the FULL experience.
Ahh, sandstone. The feel, the forms, the magic, the love, the nausea.
Lasti
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
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In 1993 I visited the similar towers near Dresden in former DDR/East Germany. Rules are more or less the same as in the Czech area. And the guidebook is filled with rules of what to do - and especially not to do.
Fx
Ringbolt should be at least 3 m apart, and if more than three rings are placed, there should be at least 7,5 meter between first and third.
Friends, stoppers and chalk are not allowed.
Only independent towers are allowed to be climbed. Walls up to plateaus accesible by nonclimbers are restricted for climbing.
You MUST sign up in the summit registry/Gipfelbuch upon each climb and always ands only with Routename/Surname/First name/Club affilation. You are NOT allowed to make drawings in the books.
You MUST salute other climbers present on the Gipfel with a "Berg Heil!". (Even if it's the third time you meet them that morning...)
We were not specially brave, and didn't do much. And we didn't have much succes (or faith...?) in the Knotenschlinge. Mainly because we forgot the very important tool, the "Spatel". This is a wooden stick (basically a hammer-shaft) used to place and knock the knot into position. Without it the rough sandstone prevents the knot from sliding in properly.
Bob Rosendal on "Direktes Klavier", 7b. 2 bolts:
Being proud of our knotted sling (before trying it):
Berg Heil!
Michael
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 13, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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I think I wet my pants there just a little Michael!
Direktes Klavier is one of my absolute favorite routes in Bielatal. First day when we climbed there, we did Löschnerwand, the cool dual crack up a ramp for five point easy to the left. All the time I was eyeing that perfect swath of stone to the right of me with the two shiny rings...
After a few days and a few climbs I started up it. And it was just as I imagined. Delicate climbing up the endless ripples all the way. Oh my.
Thanks for the memories.
Lasti
p.s.
The Czechs just relaxed their no chalk rules...
http://planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36682
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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OK thnx, Lasti.
We did the Perryriss around the corner as well. I almost wetted myself then, trying to stuff knots in as addition to the two bolts. And by thinking about the first ascent in, what, 1908?
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
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Oh yes, Perryriss!
That's a nice line for sure... And to think not only the date, but the story...
Legend has it Oliver Perry-Smith climbed the much sought-after Perryriss alone. So his peers didn't believe he did it. To prove he got up the thing (what would you say? vertical to 5 degrees overhanging big hands to fist?) he climbed it again, alone and wrote his name in chalk all over the wall for all to see.
Not as elegant as sneaking a bicycle up the summit of a tower whose first ascent he snatched from his buddies during the night before their attempt, but just as entertaining.
Lasti
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Hm, possibly my memory fails me: We didn't have any fistsized knots, so maybe it wasn't on Perryriss I tried to use them.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 13, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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No No No, it definitely was... Just meanders and tapers a bit.. a lot. Right around the corner to the left. If I remember well you start with a bit of scrambling to the top of a big block and then away you go. Or not as it were, 'cuz that thing's HARD. Anyway most cracks in that region have round edges so I guess maybe I remember the outside, not the depths of it.
Did you climb a lot in the area?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 14, 2009 - 01:40am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 14, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 14, 2009 - 02:23am PT
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 14, 2009 - 11:14am PT
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Hey Todd,
I've seen them there pictures some place other than here. Some place W I D E.
Nice ones though.
Lasti
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 14, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
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Long past time for a good bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Thanks for the link Allen.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Bump for a babyhead...
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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BUMP!
So Steve doesn't have to.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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In 1973 I was given a Czech 'coffee table book' about the Czech Sandstone Rock Towns. A real curiosity at the time.
The photos are mainly black and white landscapes and the quality ain't that good, but there are several climbing photos that reflect the spirit of the place.
I have canned the three below, apologies for the poor quality, ut my scanner is truly shite and really they didn't look this bad until I reopened them after saving.....
Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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Bump...
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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May 26, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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A well deserved BUMP.
Lasti
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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Deserves another...for wayne burleson.
GET PSYCHED!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 11:01pm PT
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Nice additions Marlow!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, steve... wow, REALLY neat stuff here... not sure if i saw it, before or not...
did not get through the whole thing yet, now... but wow, ... was so impressed, had to post fast... :)
got to go get some sleep soon, but will see more, later...
thanks for sharing... :)
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Just what the Herr Doktor ordered!
Lasti
edit: ooooops, despite the distinctively Germanic tilt of the thread, it is, after all, about Czech climbing.
So just what the Pan Doctor ordered!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 11, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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Josef Rakoncaj (born 6. of April 1951 in Dvur Kralove) is one of the most successful high altitude climbers. During his 30 years of climbing he took part in more than 30 expeditions worldwide. Nine times he successfully reached the top of 8000 m peaks [mostly establishing new routes]. He is the first man who climbed K2 twice.
1972 - North face of Matterhorn, Zermatt
1973 - Elbrus, Highest peak of Europe, Kavkaz
1974 - North face of Triolet, Chamonix.
1975 - Travers Koshtan - Tau Dych - Tau, Kavkaz
1976 - Rimmon route of Trollveggen, first winter ascent, Norway
1976 - Schara, South face first ascent, Kavkaz
1977 - Kalanka, 6931m, North face first ascent, Garhwal Himal
1978 - Pik Oshanin, 6400m, East face first ascent - alpine style, Pamir
1980 - Mtn. Agner, North face, first winter ascent of Messner route, Dolomiten
1980 - Yerupaja, 6630m, West face first ascent, Peru
1981 - Nanda Devi, 7816m, North wall first ascent, Garhwal Himal
1982 - Petit Dru, EN couloir, direct first winter ascent, Alp
1982 - Mont Blanc du Tacul, Super couloir,
1982 - Jagnob, West face, Fanskie gory, West Pamir
1983 - K2, 8611m, North face second ascent, China
1984 - Lhotse Shar, 8400m, South face first ascent, Nepal
1986 - K2, 8611m, Abruzzi ridge, alpine style, first person twice ascent
1986 - Broad Peak, 8040m, West face SOLO, Karakorum
1988 - Annapurna I, 8092m, South face, Bonington route, Nepal
1989 - Manaslu, 8163m, South face, Nepal.
1990 - Cho Oyu, 8200m, West face, Nepal
1990 - Shisha Pangma central, 8016m, North face first ascent,Himalaya
1990 - Kilimangaro, Highest peak of Africa
1991 - Mc.KiInley, Messner couloir SOLO, Highest peak of North America
1991 - Aconcagua, Argentina, Highest peak of South America
1991 - Ski crossing Upper part of transcontinental glacier Hielo del Sur, Patagonia
1991 - Mera peak, 6400m, snowboard expedition, Nepal
1992 - Nanga Parbat, 8125m, Diamir face, Pakistan
1998 - Mt.Asgard, East face, Baffin island, NW Territories, Canada
2002 - Lotus Flower T., NWT Canada
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Andy de klerk
Mountain climber
South Africa
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Jun 11, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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Good!
Enjoy people who just do it
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Aug 19, 2015 - 01:22am PT
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Off to Adrspach Teplice later today. TR to follow.
Lasti
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Aug 19, 2015 - 08:11am PT
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I'd love to buy a couple of Baby Heads from Czech made in 20th century for my collection. Let me know please!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
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Waiting eagerly for the Lasti report...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2018 - 09:47am PT
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Bump for my kind of wildness...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 24, 2018 - 09:52am PT
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No shoes, no pro - no problem!
Wish I had gone to visit the rels there when I had a slight chance of not embarrassing myself.
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