Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 30, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
|
Since these are such wild and crazy, tower leaping, runout loving folks!!!A couple of the early articles on Czech climbing history in order of appearance. The first from Mountain 89 Jan/Feb 1983. Love those shoulder stands!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
|
Too COOL! Thanks for posting.
|
|
NMClimber
climber
Carlsbad Ca
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
|
Outstanding!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
|
Those are some funny pics, Steve.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2008 - 12:09am PT
|
Some pretty cool bridging going on gettin' around town, Czech style.
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2008 - 12:49am PT
|
Hey Steve, reminded me of the trip to Czech. with the late M. Strassman. Cheers.
|
|
Loomis
climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2008 - 03:44am PT
|
I really miss living in Czech and Slovensko republics, many great climbing areas and good people there.
Thanks for posting that Steve! Scott
Na zdravi!
|
|
Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2008 - 11:06am PT
|
Cool article Steve!
My son Braden just flew home from there, and sent me these pics of a climb he did last week.
"I was scared leading this climb, trying to wedge knots in the cracks. This route was first climbed in a very similar style over 100 years ago, 1908..."
of course they had a mission besides just climbing the nice tower...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2008 - 11:21am PT
|
Any snapshots Murray?!?
Any of you guys ever placed a babyhead?
|
|
Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
|
Steve Grossman and Scott Loomis, you are making me home sick! Learned to climb at Alcatraz in Srbsko (Scott knows the place and he knows my cousin in Karlstejn, no kidding) and on Decinske Steny. At 14, I got a licence to ride a motorcycle, so I would drive to Decin every weekend to climb. What a place Decin was in 1962, not many people there and those who were there on weekends were really good people. Wonderful memories sitting here in Idyllwild, CA. in 2008. There is some incredible sandstone climbing there in the Czech Republic along the Elbe river, if you can, go czeck it out.
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
|
|
Steve, I think there is some czech. footage in the climb europe vid. I'm a camera-less fool. Love-ya Murry P.s. whats a babyhead?
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
it's going down
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
can someone take over while I go for coffee?
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
bump
|
|
Loomis
climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
|
|
The "baby head" is the only piece you will see on this guys harness, also the only piece he will be able to place on this climb.
(a piece of climbing rope braided into various sized balls, used for protection)
Czech sandstone has strict rules protecting it, one of them is that no metal equipment may be used for climbing, other than bolts.
Most of the bolts there are very far apart, except for the newer routes.
P,S, Steve, yes I have placed a few "baby heads"
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
|
These are the masters of jammed knots and threads much like their cohorts in Dresden. Need to protect some wide stuff? Enter the largest of knots---nicknamed babyheads. I was hoping somebody has a shot of one!
Thanks Scott!
|
|
Loomis
climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
|
|
Just to make Alois Smrž more home sick, pictures of Srbsko Skaly.
Jana Lukášová, my ex, climbing at Srbsko Skaly
|
|
Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
|
|
This guy looks like he was born on a rock ,does he have that Mojo dialed or what?
Is he after birds nest soup
No, Paprika, you fool, read the small print.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
|
Round Two No metal please!
From Mountain 94 Dec/Jan 1983-84. Long history of climbing to say the least!
|
|
Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
|
|
Cool stuff!
All the more reason to be a climber if the Gestapo does not like the naturfeunde. Hey, they had reason to be paranoid!
The Climbers Resistance - mail exchange, these guys were way cool.
Imagine having the cajones to climb knowing that some jackass with a Luger wouldn't mind using you for target practice.
Yeah, thats usually a 5.6, unless Heir Needledick happens to be in a bad mood, then its a 5.17AK.
Ahh, now the rope knot makes sense, "yeah, easy with the hammer,
we don't want to wake up the secret police." Good Lordy, balls deluxe.
Too much, very good reading I read the whole thing, thank you.
Sandstone is the way. So many grip variations, you could bolt every square inch of a gym with holds and still not even come close to the variety you get.
And those reach thru gripper holds are insanely cool.
3000 towers and 10,000 routes, I hike a few miles for one wall jeezus h, but as long as you are climbing, wtf, over?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!