Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
Eric, most excellent TR, looks like a brilliant trip -- K did well to kick you out!
Looks like I might be in CO the weekend after the 4th, we should plan something cozmic.
|
|
L
climber
The right side of the tracks but in the wrong town
|
|
Cowpoke,
I tried to read this at work, but the photos weren't visible, which is as annoying as listening to a movie without the picture.
Now I got the whole enchilada, and this TR rocks! Beautiful photos, and Anders and Tami adding their history bits in there really makes the magic happen.
Thanks for sharing your great adventure.
|
|
Dirka
Trad climber
SF
|
|
DUDE, I wanna go now! Thanks for posting up.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
An early ascent of Penny Lane - June 1978.
The climber appears not to have heard of the dictum "Never lieback when you can bridge".
The rock then was rather more covered in lichen, and there were even a few shrubs left in the crack.
Here is the attentive, hard-working support team.
Including some fairly well known climbers, one of whom posted upthread.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
As both Lynne and Ron have been posting like mad, with only a little help and encouragement, I guess I should add to it.
Second free ascent of the second pitch of Exasperator, April 1976.
Note stylish patched EBs, patched painter's pants, Whillans harness, and (egad!) tube socks.
Note also the many shrubs, including some cedars that are sadly now gone.
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2008 - 05:42am PT
|
very cool, Anders! as L notes, you and Tami are making magic out of this little report.
Can I take a wild guess on the climber on the far left? Robin Barley? I've only seen later photos of him, but sure looks like the same smile.
What a coincidence: you were on the 2nd ascent and I was on the 100,002nd ascent of Exasperator.
Hey there, Chiloe! Postin' from Sweden?! I like cozmic...it's a date.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Can I take a wild guess on the climber on the far left? Robin Barley?
No, it's Simon Tooley. Well enough known to those of us who hung around Squamish then. Don't know who has his back to the camera, but the guy on the right was Ms. Knight's BF, who subsequently moved to the US. I've heard he kept climbing.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
The climber with the red shirt, leading PL (four posts back), was probably Richard Suddaby. I'm not sure who the climber with his back to the camera in the group photo below was. Craig, perhaps? Perhaps Tami can elucidate these mysteries?
I have photos of Robin Barley, but am not sure I'd dare post them. He doesn't look at all like Simon, though.
ps Glad you had fun climbing with Jeremy, Katy, and Kelly. I'm surprised he didn't try to get you up Right Wing, though I suppose it's still pretty wet.
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
|
They graciously provided a couple spots to sleep in their house, but I didn't get to climb with Kelly and Katy -- they were busy planning a paddling trip into the cirque (and unicycling with Kris...speaking of which, my girls and I just finished watching Kris in a couple you tube videos -- dude!!!). But, yeah, Jeremy said Rightwing stays wet into mid-season. Hopefully, I'll be back in August to give it a go, although it sounds like a pretty continuous line for 5.10. Either way, I'm sure Jeremy will brew up a fun adventure for us.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
To add to Tami's story, the film of David's dive wasn't used in the TV commercial, which was supposed to be promoting national unity. (Beats having a civil war, I suppose.) It was in summer 1980, just after Quebec had a referendum on whether or not it wanted divorce with bed privileges, or whatever it was. The referendum got defeated, but the federal government decided it had to do something.
Bummer, eh? You take a death-defying plunge for your country (and $1,000?), and then they don't show it.
The ad did include aerial footage of the team on top of Mt. Rexford, panning on inspiring mountainous metaphors in the background. They were waving their arms and looking triumphant - I'm not sure what they had in their hands, though.
I was asked to help with the filming, my one chance for immortality as a rigger. But was already busy with other work.
|
|
L
climber
The right side of the tracks but in the wrong town
|
|
Tami,
That story about David is hysterical!
Glad there was no permanent whipperation.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Glad there was no permanent whipperation.
Serious whiplash of the stomach muscles, but no testicular damage from the falls. The testicular damage came later. They wanted some different angles to intercut with the long fall so they put me on a trampoline and said "Bounce up and down really high. We'll shoot you silhouetted against the sky and it'll be really amazing."
Now, I don't have problems bouncing on trampolines, cuz I did that a lot back in my youth. (Although unlike certain female Canadian cartoonists, I generally keep my clothes on when I trampoline.) Anyway, I draped a bunch of slings and gear over my shoulders and on my harness and started bouncing. I've seen the film, and it's pretty cool. It works well with the fall shot, and the gear flying around my head is just like a real fall. The gear whipping back down and into my crotch -- which they didn't put into the final cut -- was not just like a real fall. It was more like a real kick in the balls.
Oh, and it was on that job that I almost fell out of a helicopter. But I've already told that story somewhere on ST.
D
Edit: Tami got most of the story right, except for missing the part that although I might have been 100 feet above the ground for my 30-foot fall that she and Peder turned into a 50-foot fall, I was only about 55 feet above the cameraman, who was lying on his back on top of a big boulder below the overhang and shooting straight up. He was directly in the fall line, and just about had a heart attack.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
It's all coming back to me now. The horror! The horror!
I took a similar fall to Dave's, but unintentionally, and in 1973. Eric and I did Big Daddy in a spring rainstorm, of course nailing it. The idea was that being a one+ pitch climb with a big overhang, we'd stay a bit drier. We didn't have jumars, so the second (me) got to follow in etriers, removing nuts and pins. As usual, Eric had welded some in, and some were awkward as hell to get out. He belayed in a little cave, just below the top. Pretty much at the same point as where Ghost went flying. When the rock is dry, I believe you just make a few moves off to the left, and you're at the top. The rock was wet.
So I said to Eric that I'd just nail to the right - the top of Sentry Box is a few metres to the side, and I thought that with one or two pins I could get there, and we could walk down. So I put in a pin (a 2" bong) and weighted it. Held me, reached to the side, and it pulled. I went flying, and ended up about 10 m lower down, level with the lip of the overhang. Sitting hip belay, eh? I think Eric somehow anchored the rope, or maybe I put something in temporarily to get my weight off. Anyway, I ended up prussiking back up, and we then rappelled off. To add insult to injury, there was a bit of tape at the mid-point of my fine yellow MSR rope, which just about prevented us from getting the wet, high friction rope down.
That may have been my first lead fall, too. Sort of.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Now, getting this thing back on topic, which was climbing at Squamish, not drug-numbed memories of the good ol' days at Squamish, here's a shot of a climb that Cowpoke should put on his list for August
Sunblessed, high up on the back side of the Chief.
|
|
Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
|
|
Man, this girl is a keeper. Marry her if you have not already! Sounds like my wife, who RULES!!!
|
|
Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
|
|
I'm getting kicked out,this week I hope !! Sweet
|
|
blacksun
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, California
|
|
Very immersive. Never can have too many pics.
Thanks for sharing!
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2008 - 08:47am PT
|
Now, we are getting somewhere! Love it -- friends helping friends take whippers in the name of Canadian unity! And, Ghost, I can't stop laughing about your trampoline-bouncing torture. That is just too much, hah!
So, what is that beauty of a line?!? That's not Sunblessed is it (as bad as I failed at guessing people, you'd think I'd just keep my keyboard quite)? Either way, it looks amazing (hands and fingers?); keep the pics and stories coming, please.
PS Tami, my girls watched some of Kris' videos and are now obsessed with getting unicycles. I tried once and it was an absolute failure, but (unlike me) they have balance so it might work out better for them. For those of you who are uniskeptics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uPznTbus3g
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
I like cozmic...it's a date.
Ja, 5th/6th fer sure, made the rez.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!