She kicked me out (TR w/too many pics)


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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
…and sent me to Squamish.

She insisted I go: “You ogle Supertopo every morning, but haven’t been on a climbing trip in a year. Email Jeremy, find out where he is climbing next week, and buy a plane ticket.”

With Jeremy home in Vancouver, I was soon flying over the land of the Kingsburys' lonely dental floss and headed to Squamish for the first time.

After driving to Squamish, we “basecamped” with Jer’s close friends, Kelly and Katy (thanks so much guys! you were wonderfully gracious hosts! can’t wait to hear the paddle-cirque TR)

Now a conspirator in the plan to help me climb away the residual stress from the last year, “What grade do you want to climb, and for how many pitches?” Jeremy asked. Not sure I’ve heard sweeter words than that.

For starters, the answer was the Ultimate Everything Linkup of the Apron and second summit of the Chief. We did the route as 18 pitches, linking 3 different slab climbs up the Apron and then up the UE. Most of the climbing was in the 5.8 to 5.9 range, with a couple harder moves on the last pitch – a perfect introduction to the Chief. The “official” linkup discussed in the guide combines things a bit differently, but climbing around crowds gave us a variant of similar difficulty and 5-star quality.

The rough location of the line we took:

Jeremy – on the 1st and then 2nd pitches – arguing that fingers are superfluous when paddling up slab:

Being a Saturday with beautiful weather, the Chief was busy. One of the many other parties on the Apron that day:

Some views from belays on the Apron.

Jeremy on the short walk to hook up with the 10-pitch Ultimate Everything proper.

Nearly every pitch on the UE ends at a large tree ledge, giving the route a discontinuous, but laid back feel.

View from one of the belays of the queue on Squamish Buttress:

same feature...zoomed out a bit:

And, Jeremy topping out.

After the first day, things got wetter.

Making time for early morning (I was still on Boston time) walks in the rainforest,

Each day, the cliffs dried up late enough to chase away the crowds, but early enough for lots more climbing. The classic finger crack Exasperator was one of the trip highlights for me.

It was a bit moist at the start, but all clear from there. Some folks combine these two pitches, but even with perfect beta (thanks, Jer!) I got my money’s worth breaking it up into two leads.

Frantically slotting a nut on pitch 2:

A rest...

and racing for the handjams above…notice the blur from my lightning-fast speed-climbing technique (inspired by numb fingers).

Jer at the base of another gem, Arrowroot.

And, climbing.

Jer also took me on a tour of Smoke Bluffs. A great collection of cliffs in Kelly’s and Katy’s neighborhood (literally), with dozens of outstanding 1-pitch routes.

A shot that gives you a sense of their neighborhood.

Here is a shot of part of Penny Lane cliff. On the left, is a Peter Croft – Tami Knight masterpiece and on the right is Penny Lane, a super-fun 5.9.

And, Jer on a sweet flake climb (forget the name, sorry!).

Not surprisingly, I came home with this smile still plastered on my face,

and she let me back in the house…for now. Thanks for the splendid time, Jer.

Social climber
The West
Jun 5, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
Yow! I could do with a good booting!
scuffy b

watching the flytrap
Jun 5, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
Just freakin lovely.
Those are some nice looking climbs up there.

A long way from where I started
Jun 5, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
Second-to-last shot is of Quarryman, a 5.8 in the Bluffs.


Trad climber
Jun 5, 2008 - 02:45pm PT
wow, those are some sweet looking climbs!

Getting me laughing over here with the Kingsbury comment...pretty nice view flying over the Big Sky though

Thanks for posting up!


Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
Quarryman! That's it! Thanks, Ghost...and the 10+ slab on the left is sweet (and tricky) too. a suprisingly rich concentration of high-quality routes packed into those bluffs, with cute trails taking you everywhere with ease.
handsome B

Gym climber
Jun 5, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
Sweat TR, thanks!

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
yeehah!! I was hoping I might pull out a story from you with that pic, Tami -- thanks!!! You guys did an amazing job developing the was a dream come true to walk in those woods for few days.

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jun 5, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
Looks like you had a great time. Squamish is a fun place to go for a get-away--glad to hear that you got away.

Trad climber
Jun 5, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
I forgot to say that this TR does not have 'too many pics'...

It's great! More pics the better, plus you had alot of ground you needed to show off. Right on!

Awesome story too Tami! Hair raising for sure!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jun 5, 2008 - 03:47pm PT
Cowpoke, very good stuff. My wife is kinda the same way, she knows when I'm jonesin' to climb and insists I go out.

Those routes look kick ass! I gotta get there sometime. Glad you had a good time.

Trad climber
Jun 5, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
Very fun!
I need to get up there one of these years.

Jun 5, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
bad arse!!!

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 5, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
(watch out for that foot behind the rope stuff)

who wants to have some vegan bbq's up there in september?

Trad climber
Jun 5, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
Some nice cracks there.

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jun 5, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
Very Cool!!!

Jun 5, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
That's cool!

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jun 5, 2008 - 05:59pm PT
Terrific TR! I love the ones where I can feel the stoke, and see it in the faces of the climbers!

thanks for posting!

Trad climber
Jun 5, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
Great rip report and pics,
Glad you got kicked out onto the rock!

Trad climber
Jun 5, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
Thank you for sharing the
Beautiful rock!
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