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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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…and sent me to Squamish.
She insisted I go: “You ogle Supertopo every morning, but haven’t been on a climbing trip in a year. Email Jeremy, find out where he is climbing next week, and buy a plane ticket.”
With Jeremy home in Vancouver, I was soon flying over the land of the Kingsburys' lonely dental floss and headed to Squamish for the first time.
After driving to Squamish, we “basecamped” with Jer’s close friends, Kelly and Katy (thanks so much guys! you were wonderfully gracious hosts! can’t wait to hear the paddle-cirque TR)
Now a conspirator in the plan to help me climb away the residual stress from the last year, “What grade do you want to climb, and for how many pitches?” Jeremy asked. Not sure I’ve heard sweeter words than that.
For starters, the answer was the Ultimate Everything Linkup of the Apron and second summit of the Chief. We did the route as 18 pitches, linking 3 different slab climbs up the Apron and then up the UE. Most of the climbing was in the 5.8 to 5.9 range, with a couple harder moves on the last pitch – a perfect introduction to the Chief. The “official” linkup discussed in the guide combines things a bit differently, but climbing around crowds gave us a variant of similar difficulty and 5-star quality.
The rough location of the line we took:
Jeremy – on the 1st and then 2nd pitches – arguing that fingers are superfluous when paddling up slab:
Being a Saturday with beautiful weather, the Chief was busy. One of the many other parties on the Apron that day:
Some views from belays on the Apron.
Jeremy on the short walk to hook up with the 10-pitch Ultimate Everything proper.
Nearly every pitch on the UE ends at a large tree ledge, giving the route a discontinuous, but laid back feel.
View from one of the belays of the queue on Squamish Buttress:
same feature...zoomed out a bit:
And, Jeremy topping out.
After the first day, things got wetter.
Making time for early morning (I was still on Boston time) walks in the rainforest,
Each day, the cliffs dried up late enough to chase away the crowds, but early enough for lots more climbing. The classic finger crack Exasperator was one of the trip highlights for me.
It was a bit moist at the start, but all clear from there. Some folks combine these two pitches, but even with perfect beta (thanks, Jer!) I got my money’s worth breaking it up into two leads.
Frantically slotting a nut on pitch 2:
A rest...
and racing for the handjams above…notice the blur from my lightning-fast speed-climbing technique (inspired by numb fingers).
Jer at the base of another gem, Arrowroot.
And, climbing.
Jer also took me on a tour of Smoke Bluffs. A great collection of cliffs in Kelly’s and Katy’s neighborhood (literally), with dozens of outstanding 1-pitch routes.
A shot that gives you a sense of their neighborhood.
Here is a shot of part of Penny Lane cliff. On the left, is a Peter Croft – Tami Knight masterpiece and on the right is Penny Lane, a super-fun 5.9.
And, Jer on a sweet flake climb (forget the name, sorry!).
Not surprisingly, I came home with this smile still plastered on my face,
and she let me back in the house…for now. Thanks for the splendid time, Jer.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Yow! I could do with a good booting!
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scuffy b
climber
watching the flytrap
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Lovely.
Just freakin lovely.
Those are some nice looking climbs up there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Second-to-last shot is of Quarryman, a 5.8 in the Bluffs.
D
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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wow, those are some sweet looking climbs!
Getting me laughing over here with the Kingsbury comment...pretty nice view flying over the Big Sky though
Thanks for posting up!
Cheers
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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Quarryman! That's it! Thanks, Ghost...and the 10+ slab on the left is sweet (and tricky) too. a suprisingly rich concentration of high-quality routes packed into those bluffs, with cute trails taking you everywhere with ease.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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yeehah!! I was hoping I might pull out a story from you with that pic, Tami -- thanks!!! You guys did an amazing job developing the area...it was a dream come true to walk in those woods for few days.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Looks like you had a great time. Squamish is a fun place to go for a get-away--glad to hear that you got away.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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I forgot to say that this TR does not have 'too many pics'...
It's great! More pics the better, plus you had alot of ground you needed to show off. Right on!
Awesome story too Tami! Hair raising for sure!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Cowpoke, very good stuff. My wife is kinda the same way, she knows when I'm jonesin' to climb and insists I go out.
Those routes look kick ass! I gotta get there sometime. Glad you had a good time.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Very fun!
I need to get up there one of these years.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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nice!
(watch out for that foot behind the rope stuff)
who wants to have some vegan bbq's up there in september?
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Some nice cracks there.
Thanks
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Very Cool!!!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Terrific TR! I love the ones where I can feel the stoke, and see it in the faces of the climbers!
thanks for posting!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Great rip report and pics,
Thanks,
Glad you got kicked out onto the rock!
Zander
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Ezra
Trad climber
WA, NC
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Thank you for sharing the
Beautiful rock!
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Shaft
Boulder climber
SL,UT
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Leaving tomorrow to visit Squamish the first time...can't wait. (Despite the fact the car we were going to drive up was stolen last night.)
Good to hear about possibility of late afternoon climbing when it rains - is that typical?
Nice TR....
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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And here's a picture from the first ascent of the route for people who like piccolo trumpets, in 1978.
I cleaned all three routes in the area one weekend that spring. On rappel, of course - mea culpa. A few weeks later, John and I returned and did Penny Lane - I believe that in the photo I'd just finished whacking in a piton at the 'crux'. Pre-friends days. Then a few weeks later Randy and I did Partners in Crime, which is rather harder. I never did get up Crime of the Century, even with the two fixed pins I put in at key locations. But it wasn't a lot of work, and seemed a useful thing to have.
My mother was a keen fan of mystery novels, hence the names of the two crime routes. She'd lent me her car for the weekend.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 08:49pm PT
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thanks for the kind words everyone!
point well-taken, Matt.
Shaft, I was told that the weather is a bit wetter this time of year than July and August (not sure whether the afternoon thing is typical or not...there were always clouds hanging low, but they only broke at night). Hope you get plenty of dry time and enjoy the place as much as I did.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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Mighty Hiker -- I think we posted at the same time, so I missed the fabulous pic (and background) of the FA. I loved the route: tricky bouldery start, followed by jamming, jamming, and jamming -- perfect! But, from your perspective, only one in many -- I enjoyed your legacy, thanks!
Edit: oh yeah, and Jeremy pointed out the neighborhood street now named after your cliff/climb.
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originalpmac
Trad climber
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that whitish granite has me jonesing...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thank you - but what's his name, that guy from Liverpool, first came up with the name. Somehow route and name went together well.
Squamish rock is by nature fairly white - underneath the lichens, moss and discolouration, that is. Lots of quartz and such in the mix. Many routes are now much cleaner than they were, due to climbing and rope action.
Sometime soon I must visit Penny Lane for my annual ascent and inspection. Like many jewels of life, I prefer to ration them out. Once or twice a year is usually enough. I've never understood the "run some laps" mentality when it comes to climbing. A little toproping is fine, but if I want to do laps I go to the pool.
I am perennially pestered by poltroons pleading to place bolts at the top of Penny Lane, and greatly enjoy debating with them. Their essential argument is that many other routes in the Little Smoke Bluffs at Squamish have bolt anchors at the top, and so should PL. (If all your friends jumped off a cliff, would YOU jump off a cliff?) Essentially, people who see bolts as the answer to all problems. There may be a few too many "convenience" bolts at Squamish (e.g. the Ultimate Everything) already, often placed with commercial climbing in mind. A steep and slippery slope. Edit: and, at the top of PL, there are good natural anchors - crack, trees.
The would-be bolters' understanding of physics and geometry seems marginal, for climbers. PL diagonals a lot - plum pendulum possibilities. The crux is about 3 m off the ground - if the route was being toproped, 6 - 7% rope stretch on a 60+ m rope, plus possible pendulum, is a sure crater. (Even on a belay from above, with directionals and half the stretch, it's close.) You can't climb the route safely without being able to place anchors at the top, if nothing else using the trees. It's not a rappel route, and it wouldn't make sense if it was one. And lastly, there's no clear trail to the top, it's a bit loose there, and slopes off into space. Not a place for toprope seeking novices - not that there seems any shortage of people wanting to lead it.
I have occasionally played a prank at PL, when there are people waiting to climb it. I eventually introduce myself, and explain the long-established Squamish custom that those who make the first ascent of a route are allowed to go to the front of the line. (Based on a long-established Yosemite custom, of course.) Surprising how many fall for it, so to speak.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2008 - 09:52pm PT
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That's great...Jeremy said that from his pals' house in the neighborhood you can frequently hear people yelling from the top of Penny Lane, "Where are the bolts!"
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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BA...
If you don't know what that means....
I ain't tellin'!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Someone placed belay/rappel/toprope bolts in Penny Lane, about 20 years ago. The station was placed just BELOW the top of the route, so it could be toproped with one rope. Standard ropes then were 50 m, and it's nearly 30 m to the spot where people usually build a belay, so this was deemed "convenient".
Still the same problems with a diagonal route, rope stretch, and a low crux. Adding to that neophytes attempting to locate and use the anchors from above.
So I removed the bolts, quite publicly. No need to be shy about removing bolts - if it's that important, tell people why.
Bolts aren't always the answer, and can make climbs less safe.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Beautiful Squamish granite .. been too long for me. Thanks for the stoke !
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Squamish rules! Great Climbing, Camping and chainsaws.
Token Exasperator shot!
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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quick penny lane story:
we climbed at the bluffs one hot and windy day, so windy in fact that after leading the pitch i stood there on a slightly sloping stance (not a platform but what feels like 3rd class terrain) and as i prepared to build an anchor, i was literally almost blown off of the rock by a gust of wind! like many climbs you don't need any gear to finish it up, so i'd have taken a 40 footer or so onto a relaxing belayer. let's just say i lost a week or two of of the end of my life with the scare that gave me.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2008 - 09:12am PT
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Just pulled out a '98 Climbing (178) with a nice article on Squamish history by Richard Wheater. Its focus on folks like Croft, Dean Hart, Robin Barley, Tami Knight, etc is great. In addition, one of the photos reminded me of a rumor regarding the closure and possible re-opening of the crag across the highway from the Chief (is it called the Malamute?)...intrigue regarding a drunken teenager killed by a train, illegal tree cutting, and lawsuits. Anybody know the end of the story? Is it true that the crag is soon to be re-opened to climbing? I heard (and from the looks of the photo it is true) the lines on the crag are very nice.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Great TR. Thanks Cowpoke. Not too many pics!
Cheers,
pc
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Hey Cowpoke
Next time you visit Squamish, go around to the north side of the Chief. Quieter (as in less highway noise), less crowded, and some incredible climbing.
Shot below is from the second pitch of Blazing Saddles.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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those cracks...
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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thanks for the tip, Ghost! Blazing Saddles looks freakin' sweet! Squamish has such a high concentrationn of mid-range 4- to 5-star crack pitches and several crags I didn't visit (e.g., the Squaw)...can't wait to get back. Might be as soon as August -- this time WITH the woman I love.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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a suprisingly rich concentration of high-quality routes packed into those bluffs, with cute trails taking you everywhere with ease.
The Little Smoke Bluffs have an interesting history. As you say, there is a rich concentration of high-quality routes. Several hundred now, I think. Given the easy access, you'd think that area would have been developed early, but it was actually ignored in the early decades of Squamish climbing. Got its name because it was a place where the hardguys of the late 60s/early 70s would sneak off for a "little smoke". (Carlos Castenada reference). Even in the mid 70s there weren't very many routes there. And no houses, either.
Despite its location on the edge of town, it was heavily forested and had few trails. All the rock was buried under a thick layer of moss, and all the cracks were filled with tree roots and dirt. And the prevailing attitude had always been one of "Who wants to climb some scruffy litte 80-foot p.o.s. anyway?"
A common converstation bitd was:
"Ohhhhh, man, I'm way too stoned to climb."
"Yeah, me too."
"So, you wanna go into the bluffs and nail something."
"Why not? Like you said, we're too stoned to climb."
Anders may have a better grasp of the dates, but I think the real heyday for development in the bluffs was mid-70s to mid-80s. Someone would bushwhack a little further back into the forest and come stumbling out to tell a couple of friends about the new crag he'd discovered. A few weeks of secret work would get half a dozen lines more or less clean, then the cat would be let out of the bag, and the search would start for the next buried gem.
Fun times.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Back in the good old days (bitgod), when p'terodactyls still nested on the Chief, we had an idea that there might be some climbing at the Bluffs. They may still have been MAGMA then, of course. There was much less forest cover, as the area had burnt over in the early 1960s. The front side cliffs - Penny Lane, Neat & Cool etc - have always been exposed, as they border on the Hydro right of way and are regularly cleared. Those further back were much more visible in the 1970s.
As I was never much for mind-altering substances, my memory of these things may even be somewhat reliable.
There were few climbers around Squamish then, and we had lots of challenges just figuring out what was already there. The earlier group, the hard core, had pretty much gone, and we had to make it up as we went along. The original 1967 Woodsworth guide gave us lots to figure out.
People did a few climbs at the Bluffs in the early to mid 1970s, and there were probably some things that weren't recorded. I remember bushwhacking around on several occasions, usually in winter or spring, seeing the sights and doing some scruffy stuff that we didn't bother recording. Things really took off in 1977, and especially 1978. Suddenly there were enough climbers, a few good climbs established, some improvement of equipment and technique and knowledge, and overall a sort of critical mass. Over the next decade, a lot of good climbs got put up, and people gradually explored further back. There had always been a network of trails on the frontside, and it got extended to suit.
It was pretty simple. They offer a nice klettergarten - sunny, with lots of well protected, modest, short climbs. Something that Squamish simply hadn't had before.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2008 - 11:07am PT
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From Wheater's 98 article (p. 85-86):
"Throughout the mid-1980's, the low-angle sweeps on the Apron (300 feet north of the Grand Wall) often lured soloists. Croft and [Hamish] Fraser had routinely soloed moderate to stiff climbs on the smaller crags. Strenuous stuff like Hot Cherry Bendover (5.11b), Crime of the Century (5.11c), and the Horrors of Ivan (5.11c) became components in the regular solo-circuits. The Apron, however, offered multi-pitch terrain. One day as Croft and Fraser both soloed St. Vitus' Dance (a three-pitch 5.9 fist crack), Croft unknowingly stirred up a nest of wasps. Moments later, a cacophony erupted. He glanced down to see Fraser dancing amidst a swarming frenzy. Croft escaped in a fit of hysterics as Fraser scrambled on through the tumult, getting stung a dozen times. His face was so swollen one eye welded shut. Still a few hundred feet off the ground, they had to continue climbing, Fraser with one hand holding his eyelid open."
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Eric, most excellent TR, looks like a brilliant trip -- K did well to kick you out!
Looks like I might be in CO the weekend after the 4th, we should plan something cozmic.
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L
climber
The right side of the tracks but in the wrong town
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Cowpoke,
I tried to read this at work, but the photos weren't visible, which is as annoying as listening to a movie without the picture.
Now I got the whole enchilada, and this TR rocks! Beautiful photos, and Anders and Tami adding their history bits in there really makes the magic happen.
Thanks for sharing your great adventure.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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DUDE, I wanna go now! Thanks for posting up.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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An early ascent of Penny Lane - June 1978.
The climber appears not to have heard of the dictum "Never lieback when you can bridge".
The rock then was rather more covered in lichen, and there were even a few shrubs left in the crack.
Here is the attentive, hard-working support team.
Including some fairly well known climbers, one of whom posted upthread.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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As both Lynne and Ron have been posting like mad, with only a little help and encouragement, I guess I should add to it.
Second free ascent of the second pitch of Exasperator, April 1976.
Note stylish patched EBs, patched painter's pants, Whillans harness, and (egad!) tube socks.
Note also the many shrubs, including some cedars that are sadly now gone.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2008 - 05:42am PT
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very cool, Anders! as L notes, you and Tami are making magic out of this little report.
Can I take a wild guess on the climber on the far left? Robin Barley? I've only seen later photos of him, but sure looks like the same smile.
What a coincidence: you were on the 2nd ascent and I was on the 100,002nd ascent of Exasperator.
Hey there, Chiloe! Postin' from Sweden?! I like cozmic...it's a date.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Can I take a wild guess on the climber on the far left? Robin Barley?
No, it's Simon Tooley. Well enough known to those of us who hung around Squamish then. Don't know who has his back to the camera, but the guy on the right was Ms. Knight's BF, who subsequently moved to the US. I've heard he kept climbing.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The climber with the red shirt, leading PL (four posts back), was probably Richard Suddaby. I'm not sure who the climber with his back to the camera in the group photo below was. Craig, perhaps? Perhaps Tami can elucidate these mysteries?
I have photos of Robin Barley, but am not sure I'd dare post them. He doesn't look at all like Simon, though.
ps Glad you had fun climbing with Jeremy, Katy, and Kelly. I'm surprised he didn't try to get you up Right Wing, though I suppose it's still pretty wet.
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
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They graciously provided a couple spots to sleep in their house, but I didn't get to climb with Kelly and Katy -- they were busy planning a paddling trip into the cirque (and unicycling with Kris...speaking of which, my girls and I just finished watching Kris in a couple you tube videos -- dude!!!). But, yeah, Jeremy said Rightwing stays wet into mid-season. Hopefully, I'll be back in August to give it a go, although it sounds like a pretty continuous line for 5.10. Either way, I'm sure Jeremy will brew up a fun adventure for us.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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To add to Tami's story, the film of David's dive wasn't used in the TV commercial, which was supposed to be promoting national unity. (Beats having a civil war, I suppose.) It was in summer 1980, just after Quebec had a referendum on whether or not it wanted divorce with bed privileges, or whatever it was. The referendum got defeated, but the federal government decided it had to do something.
Bummer, eh? You take a death-defying plunge for your country (and $1,000?), and then they don't show it.
The ad did include aerial footage of the team on top of Mt. Rexford, panning on inspiring mountainous metaphors in the background. They were waving their arms and looking triumphant - I'm not sure what they had in their hands, though.
I was asked to help with the filming, my one chance for immortality as a rigger. But was already busy with other work.
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L
climber
The right side of the tracks but in the wrong town
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Tami,
That story about David is hysterical!
Glad there was no permanent whipperation.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Glad there was no permanent whipperation.
Serious whiplash of the stomach muscles, but no testicular damage from the falls. The testicular damage came later. They wanted some different angles to intercut with the long fall so they put me on a trampoline and said "Bounce up and down really high. We'll shoot you silhouetted against the sky and it'll be really amazing."
Now, I don't have problems bouncing on trampolines, cuz I did that a lot back in my youth. (Although unlike certain female Canadian cartoonists, I generally keep my clothes on when I trampoline.) Anyway, I draped a bunch of slings and gear over my shoulders and on my harness and started bouncing. I've seen the film, and it's pretty cool. It works well with the fall shot, and the gear flying around my head is just like a real fall. The gear whipping back down and into my crotch -- which they didn't put into the final cut -- was not just like a real fall. It was more like a real kick in the balls.
Oh, and it was on that job that I almost fell out of a helicopter. But I've already told that story somewhere on ST.
D
Edit: Tami got most of the story right, except for missing the part that although I might have been 100 feet above the ground for my 30-foot fall that she and Peder turned into a 50-foot fall, I was only about 55 feet above the cameraman, who was lying on his back on top of a big boulder below the overhang and shooting straight up. He was directly in the fall line, and just about had a heart attack.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It's all coming back to me now. The horror! The horror!
I took a similar fall to Dave's, but unintentionally, and in 1973. Eric and I did Big Daddy in a spring rainstorm, of course nailing it. The idea was that being a one+ pitch climb with a big overhang, we'd stay a bit drier. We didn't have jumars, so the second (me) got to follow in etriers, removing nuts and pins. As usual, Eric had welded some in, and some were awkward as hell to get out. He belayed in a little cave, just below the top. Pretty much at the same point as where Ghost went flying. When the rock is dry, I believe you just make a few moves off to the left, and you're at the top. The rock was wet.
So I said to Eric that I'd just nail to the right - the top of Sentry Box is a few metres to the side, and I thought that with one or two pins I could get there, and we could walk down. So I put in a pin (a 2" bong) and weighted it. Held me, reached to the side, and it pulled. I went flying, and ended up about 10 m lower down, level with the lip of the overhang. Sitting hip belay, eh? I think Eric somehow anchored the rope, or maybe I put something in temporarily to get my weight off. Anyway, I ended up prussiking back up, and we then rappelled off. To add insult to injury, there was a bit of tape at the mid-point of my fine yellow MSR rope, which just about prevented us from getting the wet, high friction rope down.
That may have been my first lead fall, too. Sort of.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Now, getting this thing back on topic, which was climbing at Squamish, not drug-numbed memories of the good ol' days at Squamish, here's a shot of a climb that Cowpoke should put on his list for August
Sunblessed, high up on the back side of the Chief.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Man, this girl is a keeper. Marry her if you have not already! Sounds like my wife, who RULES!!!
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Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
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I'm getting kicked out,this week I hope !! Sweet
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blacksun
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, California
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Very immersive. Never can have too many pics.
Thanks for sharing!
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cowpoke
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2008 - 08:47am PT
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Now, we are getting somewhere! Love it -- friends helping friends take whippers in the name of Canadian unity! And, Ghost, I can't stop laughing about your trampoline-bouncing torture. That is just too much, hah!
So, what is that beauty of a line?!? That's not Sunblessed is it (as bad as I failed at guessing people, you'd think I'd just keep my keyboard quite)? Either way, it looks amazing (hands and fingers?); keep the pics and stories coming, please.
PS Tami, my girls watched some of Kris' videos and are now obsessed with getting unicycles. I tried once and it was an absolute failure, but (unlike me) they have balance so it might work out better for them. For those of you who are uniskeptics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uPznTbus3g
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I like cozmic...it's a date.
Ja, 5th/6th fer sure, made the rez.
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