North Six Shooter is one of the classic desert spires. This is a glimpse looking down from the top of the second pitch. First time on this route was ’85 with a climbing partner 14 years my senior. I returned this year with a friend to re-visit this six star of a shooter route.
The first time we rapped off with the MEH star driven angle iron contraptions pictured below. Some where on the route there was a sturdy old oval with M E HORN stamped on the spine. Figuring it was better to replace it with a more modern biner and keen on a little artifact I pocketed it as a souvenir.
Life is linear (my read on it) and every once and a while one happens onto an instance that connects back in time. Was it coincidence or a matter of putting the biner in my pocket?
Ends up Maurice Horn lives in Bozeman, MT and I have had the chance to meet him. He still climbs and finds great joy in opening new routes. As a man of the venerable Fred generation it inspires me to see him out climbing.
The rap stations have been updated with sturdy gear and positioned just a little better for rope pulls. The team to replace the bolts, thankfully, left the MEH bolt intact as a museum piece in a cathedral for those who can appreciate it.
How do those alloy glue-ins hold up with respect to load deformation from hard falls?
Epoxied in 1/2" stainless machine bolts and keyhole hangers might be the easiest system to maintain since bolts could be backed out, the holes redrilled and new bolts re-epoxied into position once the old ones have expired.
No point in leaving hangers in place to corrode away...