Good Anchors, Bad Anchors

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Messages 61 - 74 of total 74 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
wildone

climber
Where you want to be
May 4, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
That's rad.
Conrad

climber
May 5, 2008 - 12:24am PT




North Six Shooter is one of the classic desert spires. This is a glimpse looking down from the top of the second pitch. First time on this route was ’85 with a climbing partner 14 years my senior. I returned this year with a friend to re-visit this six star of a shooter route.

The first time we rapped off with the MEH star driven angle iron contraptions pictured below. Some where on the route there was a sturdy old oval with M E HORN stamped on the spine. Figuring it was better to replace it with a more modern biner and keen on a little artifact I pocketed it as a souvenir.

Life is linear (my read on it) and every once and a while one happens onto an instance that connects back in time. Was it coincidence or a matter of putting the biner in my pocket?

Ends up Maurice Horn lives in Bozeman, MT and I have had the chance to meet him. He still climbs and finds great joy in opening new routes. As a man of the venerable Fred generation it inspires me to see him out climbing.

The rap stations have been updated with sturdy gear and positioned just a little better for rope pulls. The team to replace the bolts, thankfully, left the MEH bolt intact as a museum piece in a cathedral for those who can appreciate it.



Not a bad bolt, rather a storied bolt.


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2008 - 09:08am PT
The team to replace the bolts, thankfully, left the MEH bolt intact as a museum piece
in a cathedral for those who can appreciate it.


I like that image.
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
May 5, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
May 6, 2008 - 12:10am PT
exactly what is this supposed to convey?
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Jun 10, 2010 - 12:03am PT
^^^ That those (crooked) Metolius Rap Hangers put a twist in the rope… and that those SS Fixe wedge bolts should have another thread or two exposed?



Stumbled across this while searching for bolts…

For you Dirtheads:

“The best screw you will have in the dirt!”

http://www.americanea.com/proddetail.php?prod=PE26-TC

Put a socket on yer power drill and you’ve got yer next super-mega-choss summit anchor! Too funny…
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 13, 2010 - 04:49am PT
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 13, 2010 - 05:35am PT
That those (crooked) Metolius Rap Hangers put a twist in the rope…

Haven't experienced that yet.
Sitting Duck

Mountain climber
The Arctic
Jun 13, 2010 - 09:17am PT
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jun 13, 2010 - 10:38am PT
Great thread everyone!
quietpartner

Trad climber
Moantannah
Jun 13, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
Re: Conrad's post above...


I was climbing with Maurice when I fell and broke my ankle....he's a cool cat and a great climbing buddy. Thanks for the belay Maurice!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 13, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
Here is an instance in life where good/bad covers the entire spectrum- no grey areas here.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 13, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
No splitting of shafts necessary!

How do those alloy glue-ins hold up with respect to load deformation from hard falls?

Epoxied in 1/2" stainless machine bolts and keyhole hangers might be the easiest system to maintain since bolts could be backed out, the holes redrilled and new bolts re-epoxied into position once the old ones have expired.

No point in leaving hangers in place to corrode away...

thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Sep 20, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
Frum today
Messages 61 - 74 of total 74 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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