Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
wildone
climber
Where you want to be
|
|
That's rad.
|
|
Conrad
climber
|
|
North Six Shooter is one of the classic desert spires. This is a glimpse looking down from the top of the second pitch. First time on this route was ’85 with a climbing partner 14 years my senior. I returned this year with a friend to re-visit this six star of a shooter route.
The first time we rapped off with the MEH star driven angle iron contraptions pictured below. Some where on the route there was a sturdy old oval with M E HORN stamped on the spine. Figuring it was better to replace it with a more modern biner and keen on a little artifact I pocketed it as a souvenir.
Life is linear (my read on it) and every once and a while one happens onto an instance that connects back in time. Was it coincidence or a matter of putting the biner in my pocket?
Ends up Maurice Horn lives in Bozeman, MT and I have had the chance to meet him. He still climbs and finds great joy in opening new routes. As a man of the venerable Fred generation it inspires me to see him out climbing.
The rap stations have been updated with sturdy gear and positioned just a little better for rope pulls. The team to replace the bolts, thankfully, left the MEH bolt intact as a museum piece in a cathedral for those who can appreciate it.
Not a bad bolt, rather a storied bolt.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2008 - 09:08am PT
|
The team to replace the bolts, thankfully, left the MEH bolt intact as a museum piece
in a cathedral for those who can appreciate it.
I like that image.
|
|
slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
exactly what is this supposed to convey?
|
|
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 12:03am PT
|
^^^ That those (crooked) Metolius Rap Hangers put a twist in the rope… and that those SS Fixe wedge bolts should have another thread or two exposed?
Stumbled across this while searching for bolts…
For you Dirtheads:
“The best screw you will have in the dirt!”
http://www.americanea.com/proddetail.php?prod=PE26-TC
Put a socket on yer power drill and you’ve got yer next super-mega-choss summit anchor! Too funny…
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 04:49am PT
|
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 05:35am PT
|
That those (crooked) Metolius Rap Hangers put a twist in the rope…
Haven't experienced that yet.
|
|
Sitting Duck
Mountain climber
The Arctic
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 09:17am PT
|
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 10:38am PT
|
Great thread everyone!
|
|
quietpartner
Trad climber
Moantannah
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
|
Re: Conrad's post above...
I was climbing with Maurice when I fell and broke my ankle....he's a cool cat and a great climbing buddy. Thanks for the belay Maurice!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
|
Here is an instance in life where good/bad covers the entire spectrum- no grey areas here.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
|
No splitting of shafts necessary!
How do those alloy glue-ins hold up with respect to load deformation from hard falls?
Epoxied in 1/2" stainless machine bolts and keyhole hangers might be the easiest system to maintain since bolts could be backed out, the holes redrilled and new bolts re-epoxied into position once the old ones have expired.
No point in leaving hangers in place to corrode away...
|
|
thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
|
Frum today
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!