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BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:24am PT
Good evening Tacos,

I thought I would let you all know some bad news. This afternoon while bouldering along the Merced River Sean was bitten by a rattle snake. From what I understand his hand and the snake were in the same crack at the same time. He was air lifted to Sonora. That is all I know right now.

Blair...
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:24am PT
Well, I hate to make a bad situation worse, but since this thread started, I hiked up to the top and rapped down the top several pitches of the route.

There is evidence of chipping. It looks like DR or Sean was beating all over with a hammer to hide the evidence, but the chipping remains for all to see.

Considering the other bogus tactics DR and Sean resorted to in order to establish the route, it's obvious that they chipped holds as well. And nobody else has been on the route between when they were chipping and when I saw it! Seems like they employed every tactic necessary to bring the route down to their level, and then invented this "being considerate" story later to obscure the fact that they simply couldn't rise to the level that the sacred rock entreated of them!

While it SEEMS that they have been forthright in this thread, in fact, they have simply been hiding the most horrible facts! The chipping makes it clear that no matter their past reputations, they guys are just butchers!

Getting older, looking for a glory route, even trying to make a movie of it, it turns out that there is no depth too dank and murky for them to plumb in their quest for recognition at any cost to the sacred rock. Butchers, I tell you, BUTCHERS! My grandma could have done the route better, and from the ground up too!

DR and Sean, I defy you to deny it! It is obvious to anybody with half a brain what really happened up there! For SHAME! You will never live down this legacy of infamy!
BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:27am PT
Madbolter,

What kind of hangers did they use?
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:28am PT
Another one, even better due to it's real back country nature.

Depairadoes.
Gorge of Depair (Kings Canyon in case you don't know)

9 Pitches. Two are .11+, one is .12a.

This was a ground up ascent which took a few tries due to injuries and such (Keesee was seriously wounded and we were out there.) On the FA Chelsea Griffie and I did a no falls ascent. I am proud of it. Go do it.

edit: i see i am intermixed with another conversation. hope the bad news is not true.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:30am PT
Blair,

Ouch, sorry to hear that about Sean. And airlifted? That sounds bad, like he took a bad fall from the boulder after being bitten.

Please keep us posted when you hear more.
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:31am PT
I'd hate to not be a part of this legendary thread in some form.

+ post count.

Ed
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:34am PT
madbolter1 ( = Richard Jensen ? )

Bring on the photos of the chipping, or I'm calling your post a big fat troll....
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:34am PT
Cool! I got #1700!!

Carry on...

Ed
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:34am PT
sorry to hear about Sean's misfortune...

as for madbolter's post, it is a reference to Wings of Steel aka WOS which may be searched on the STForum in its rather lengthy incarnations.

I don't think he actually did what he said, but who knows... there are a lot of differences in the stories of these two routes and the people who put the routes up (this last point is about to become evident).

madbolter1 posted:
Well, I hate to make a bad situation worse, but since this thread started, I hiked up to the top and rapped down the top several pitches of the route.

There is evidence of chipping. It looks like DR or Sean was beating all over with a hammer to hide the evidence, but the chipping remains for all to see.

Considering the other bogus tactics DR and Sean resorted to in order to establish the route, it's obvious that they chipped holds as well. And nobody else has been on the route between when they were chipping and when I saw it! Seems like they employed every tactic necessary to bring the route down to their level, and then invented this "being considerate" story later to obscure the fact that they simply couldn't rise to the level that the sacred rock entreated of them!

While it SEEMS that they have been forthright in this thread, in fact, they have simply been hiding the most horrible facts! The chipping makes it clear that no matter their past reputations, they guys are just butchers!

Getting older, looking for a glory route, even trying to make a movie of it, it turns out that there is no depth too dank and murky for them to plumb in their quest for recognition at any cost to the sacred rock. Butchers, I tell you, BUTCHERS! My grandma could have done the route better, and from the ground up too!

DR and Sean, I defy you to deny it! It is obvious to anybody with half a brain what really happened up there! For SHAME! You will never live down this legacy of infamy!

madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:36am PT
BLD, you know, I didn't pay any attention. I guess I should have, but my attention was focused on the widespread and appalling damage to the sacred rock! I can't bring a single hanger image to mind, but I have many images seared into my mind of the rape done to the rock.
BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:41am PT
MadB,

I havent been on the route but Im sure you are wrong.

Do you have a real name?

Thanks Blair............
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:45am PT
Ed, don't you mean to say "differences in the people that put the routes DOWN?"

If they were willing to rap-bolt, then they are capable of ANYTHING! They are probably child-molesters too.

Or do you really imagine that you "know" them? If you are that naive, then all I can say is that I bet you didn't imagine in advance that they would "do" this route on rappel!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:48am PT
Blair, my name is Richard Jensen. I'm not at all clear on how you can be so sure I'm wrong if you haven't been on the route! Isn't that the issue here? Thousands of posts in a pure speculative vacuum. They admit to rap-bolting! Who knows what new horrors they will admit to when really pressed!
BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:49am PT
Clint C. wrote:

"Blair,

Ouch, sorry to hear that about Sean. And airlifted? That sounds bad, like he took a bad fall from the boulder after being bitten.

Please keep us posted when you hear more."


Clint,

I don't think Sean was up very high. I heard he was showing one of the kids how to do a move on the crack which was probably a very small child size boulder prob. I'm sure he was glad to take the hit instead of one of the kids. I think the air lift was due to serious swelling and or protocal.


Blair
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:49am PT
I was up there and I call BS

Doug
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:51am PT
I also saw evidence of drilled and patched holes. Let's hear the real story about that!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:52am PT
Ahhh... DR speaks. But your bald denial doesn't hold up because YOU are a rap-bolter! Tell the truth about ALL your tactics!!! We want to hear about EVERY time the drill touched the sacred rock and about ALL you did with the hammer!
BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:53am PT
MadB,

Its simple.







I know Sean.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:56am PT
Blair, so did you know in advance that Sean would rap-bolt the SFHD? If so, WHY didn't you stop him? If not, then you really don't know him as well as you think you do!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:57am PT
Richard writes: "They are probably child-molesters too.", no, they are not... why don't you just get to your point Richard, shittalking is different from real slander...
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