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survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 14, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
It is inconsistent to give the OK for bolts placed top down on El Cap and then throw a fit about it on HD.

Base104, I'm still waiting to hear which routes on El Cap were drilled Top Down?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 14, 2014 - 02:25pm PT
Luke,
So you guys freed the tension traverse at the end of the arch? Looks like P13 on the pitch above. Nice work!!
I'm pretty sure she meant p13 was the one which was "just about free".
p14 already went free at 5.10c.

P.S. Thanks for the report, Katie.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jan 14, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
Just wondering if it would be fun/worthwhile to give the route a go at 5.12a A0


Yes you could, and it would be highly worthwhile to do so. In fact, you could do it at like 5.9 AO if you really wanted to.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jan 21, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
Base104, I'm still waiting to hear which routes on El Cap were drilled Top Down?

I assume that the free variation to the last pitch of the Nose was drilled top down. There certainly isn't an aid pitch there. There are no stances, either.

couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 21, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
OMGHAHAHAHHHHHAHAHAHAHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAA THAT CAYLOR VIDEO IS WORTH THE PRICE OF ADMISSION X10 LOLOLOLOL!!!!!

THANKS FOR THAT VITALY! WHOMEVER PUT THAT TOGETHER, YOU RULE!!!! OH MY LORD!!!

HAHAHAHAHA

Please don't ever let my children watch that. They'll get "ideas"....haha!
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Jan 21, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
In fact, you could do it at like 5.9 AO if you really wanted to.

I saw that - I'm game. Is there a sign at the top of the rap route?
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Jan 21, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
The other crack on the same arch was successfully linked with a face climb above, and to the summit (Southern Belle).
That crack was FAed separately by someone else, then came the FA of the whole route, and finaly the FFA.
It was bad judgement on the part of the GU team to think that lightning would strike twice - and the westerly crack would just magically transition to face moves, and summit glory.
The simple fact that DR stepped back from his association with the route, his footage and or writing(?) of it speaks volumes.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Jan 22, 2014 - 12:27am PT
The Hank Caylor video on the previous page is the absolute best thing in this thread!
Messages 2561 - 2568 of total 2568 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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