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BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:59am PT
MadB wrote:

"Blair, so did you know in advance that Sean would rap-bolt the SFHD? If so, WHY didn't you stop him? If not, then you really don't know him as well as you think you do!"



Go back and read the thread.
The whole thread and then ask me your questions.

B...
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:00am PT
Ed, you say, "shittalking is different from real slander...," so perhaps you can explain that clear, bright line to me. And while you're at it, please let me know how your observation is relevant. These guys RAP-BOLTED the SOUTH FACE OF HALF DOME! OMG, what credibility can be left after that???

Oh, the horror!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:01am PT
Actually, Blair, I HAVE read every post. I didn't see the part where you knew about the rap-bolting in advance and tried to stop it. Was that posted and then withdrawn later? Or are you admitting that you don't know they guys as well as you assert?
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:02am PT
Did anyone sh#t on their ropes?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:03am PT
for a guy who bitched endlessly about the unfair treatment he recieved, he sure seems willing to jump right on the next guy.
BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:04am PT
MadB

I AGREE with how GROWING UP was put up.

I dont need to explain any more than that to you.

Carry on!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:07am PT
Sad to hear about Sean. I had a friend bitten by a rattlesnake last year, in his garage. Not good. The recovery takes quite a while. Hopefully Sean had medical insurance too. While my friend did, he managed to see that his bill totalled over $100K.

Ironically, his name was also Sean.

Good luck and speedy recovery, Sean!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:08am PT
If I would have had the chance, I WOULD have sh|t on their ropes, and I would have dropped sh|t bombs all over them too! Wrong is wrong! Plain and simple! And people who can see the wrong have to DO something about it! Come ON herd!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:10am PT
Blair, you mean you agree with how Growing Up was put DOWN! It should be called Growing Down!

Guys like this will stoop to anything! Anything, I tell you! Come ON herd!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:18am PT
Better would have been for us to shower those guys with rattlesnakes to STOP the rape! Or high-powered rifles from across the valley! Protect the sacred rock!

Oh, the horror! Come ON herd!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:22am PT
Lots of people on this forum have done FA's ground up and in Yosemite no less(Clint, k-man, etc.). Same goes for me. I once took a 25-footer when I fell in the middle of drilling a bolt from a very poor stance. I stormed back up to the stance and got the bolt in the second time.

Putting up FA's while exploring unknown ground and drilling on lead is one of the greatest experiences in climbing. I think some of those people in this discussion who think GU was put up in acceptable style have never had the opportunity to experience the total thrill and commitment required to do a bolt-protected route ground up. These people do not realize the incredible experience they have taken away from others.

Bruce
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:22am PT
Oh, and by the way, even if credible, unbiased people get on the route and proclaim that there is NO chipping, that doesn't mean squat! It is THERE! Just look hard enough and you will SEE it! We shouldn't pay ANY attention to the claims of the FA team, nor to ANYBODY else that would even SUGGEST that the FA team didn't engage in even more atrocious tactics....

These guys RAP-BOLTED THE SOUTH FACE OF HALF DOME! They are capable of ANYTHING!

Ohhhhhh, the horror.....
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:24am PT
You don't have to be doing a ground up FA to take a 25 footer.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:25am PT
AMEN, Bruce! You are soooo right. These bozos STOLE that potential experience from ALL of us (especially from anybody that was actually contemplating doing that part of the SFHD at SOME point in his/her climbing career)! And what a botch job they produced in the process!

Next we're gonna hear pleas to pony up some money to help Sean with his snake-bitten hand. But before you get suckered into such a scheme, just remember that THAT was one of the hands that RAP-BOLTED THE SOUTH FACE OF HALF DOME!!!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:27am PT
Richard (madbolter1),

> Well, I hate to make a bad situation worse, but since this thread started, I hiked up to the top and rapped down the top several pitches of the route.

> There is evidence of chipping. It looks like DR or Sean was beating all over with a hammer to hide the evidence, but the chipping remains for all to see.

OK, after Ed Hartouni's explanation, I see this is a very obscure reference to Steve Grossman's post months ago, on one of the Wings of Steel threads, where he said he rapped down from Horse Chute over p9 of Wings of Steel and said it looked like some of the hooking placements were chipped/enhanced. Your (? or somebody's) response was that somebody must have done that damage after the FA of Wings of Steel because those placements were not chipped on the FA.

Very few people are going to recognize this reference, so they will not have a perspective for your sarcasm here.

So I guess your current point is that you feel that the supertopo forum can be used to stir up some group effort to chop the bolts on Growing Up, similar to how those guys chopped the bolts on the first 2 pitches of Wings of Steel? I agree it seems ironic that you would appear to be stirring up such an effort.

If you can only reference your own tragedies from 25 years back, that is sad. You could do better, I think.
BLD

climber
excramento,CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:27am PT
Its sad that one would need to use put downs and negative should have, would have, and could have type of sh#t to TRY to make a point.


Oh and thanks for keeping this long running debate (that has 2 or 3 sides that make great points) so civil and productive.




B...
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:30am PT
caughtinside wrote:

"You don't have to be doing a ground up FA to take a 25 footer."

And the point of your very obvious remark is......

Bruce (who has taken a 60-footer while not doing a FA)
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:34am PT
Hey Richard - your shtick was moderately entertaining for the first few posts, but that was many, many posts ago...
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:37am PT
Clint, my sarcasm is not about 25 years back. It is about right now and about this thread. Same basic crap, different decade.

The "Valley Christians" will apparently always be with us, and it is THEY that should be taking the heat for their nit-picky criticisms and slanders! How much worse would this thread have gone for Doug and Sean had they lacked a Valley reputation at the time of GU? They got a lot of heat here as it is!

I guess the climbing community really learns NOTHING from the likes of Warren Harding. His points were general, not merely to be applied to him alone.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:40am PT
Sorry you did Knott enjoy it all, Hardman. Actually I had some fun with it. You know, you can please some of the people some of the time and all of the people some of the time and all of the people some of the time, but you can Knott please all of the people all of the time.
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