coz
Trad climber
California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 29, 2008 - 02:52pm PT
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I've been in Mexico working for four months and away from all this, can anyone tell me if this is true? I can not believe it myself. I just read in Rock and Ice a story called, The Better Half. Please tell me, I read it all wrong.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Mar 29, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
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Scott,
Take a deep breath and reread the article. I'm pretty sure that's not what happened. But, just to be sure, Doug's on here from time to time and I'm sure he'll post up. If I see him, I'll ask...
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 29, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
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1000 bolts with coz's name on them.
Some glue-on holds for ambivalence.
A shock kit at the base with mental relaxant drugs for those who will freak when they see.
Something for the heart too, a defibrillator, to revive the weak hearted.
Hahahaha Coz .......
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 29, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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And the NPS didn't notice a thing while it was all happening...
Edit: I'm not in any way criticizing the climb or climbers. From the account in the magazine, it sounds like they're very capable, and did a fine job. I somehow suspect that DR wouldn't hold still for any nonsense, too.
But I may have been teasing Coz. Werner started it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 29, 2008 - 04:09pm PT
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Fer Cripe's Sake Coz! -how could you let a thing like that happen?
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coz
Trad climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2008 - 04:14pm PT
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If it's not true great, I can not really believe those guys are such, ah-cats
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 29, 2008 - 04:22pm PT
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RE:
"A shock kit at the base with mental relaxant drugs for those who will freak when they see. "
LOL!
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Mar 29, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
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Does the NPS have regs against hand bolting on rap? I sure wasn't aware of it, if they do.
This is what I can say as far as my involvement with this project is concerned. We did the first half of the route trad style, ground up, and installed 10mm stainless two-bolt anchors for every pitch at stances. That Half Dome granite is the hardest granite I've ever seen, with numerous 30 minute holes and broken bits.
I don't know if you've been up there Anders, but that upper face can be pretty deceiving. Ask Hank. Sean and Doug made some hard decisions in the interest of the quality of the route, which, in my opinion is a lot more important 100 years from now than how big your balls are. What they will remember is that it is not a shwag route.
This is only MY opinion, I don't speak for anyone but myself, but I feel like when you're getting into 5.13 slab territory, only having a bolt every 60-70 feet, 'cause that's where the micro potato-chip "jug" you stood on to drill a shitty sketched-out bolt from, doesn't cut it.
We decided to preview the top half in a 900 foot single line rappel, and I'm glad we did, because only in having done that, did we see that the line we WERE going to take, some enticing vertical rib/dikes from the end of the arch, ran out into complete blankness after 500 feet. I'm glad we didn't put in the time, and scar the rock in the process for a "mistake" route. As it is, on that preview, we found a counter-intuitive line that is of absolute quality, and you won't break your back or smash your body if you fall. Regrettably, I had to return to my work with the Park Service in Tuolumne, or I would have helped Sean and Doug bolt that upper wall.
Go climb it. It's awaiting a second ascent. Report back here.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 29, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
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The second "gold rush" is on!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 29, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
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Wow.
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coz
Trad climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
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My God Man, so it is true! Ya that's great, you are pushing the standard now. I say why stop there, install another cable route right up the South Face then any tourist can enjoy it. Your right history will show you guys where the smart ones, what where we thinking, running it out, having ethics and being willing to fail, cavemen I guess.
And to make a spray article about your climb, god my heart ahhhh!!!
I am ok, I am sure Walt's rolling in his grave. Sad day for me boys. What a blight on the proud face.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 29, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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ding ding!
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Mar 29, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
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Didn't mean to bum you out bro, just thought you needed some answers. I can e mail you Sean's phone number, if you want to talk about it the old-school way, instead of on the internet.
As for the spray article, Doug's a writer. He writes.
That's a slippery slope there, talking about a second cable route.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 29, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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Oh well, its a big rock, a few more bolts ain't gonna tip it over.
Inquiring minds want to know the more vital underlying subtexts.
What was their carbon footprint?
Did they contribute to the erosive effects of industrial tourism, or support the local product economy?
Is Sean still with Maggie?
Does ol' Doug get with the groupies on the slide show tour?
These are the vital questions.
Peter
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marky
climber
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Mar 29, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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he probably meant via ferrata
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 29, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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OMFG ..... I think Walt's coming out of the ground.
The fuking end is here for sure, eeeeeaaahhhhhh eeerrrggghhh!
Huh?
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Mar 29, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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Peter, Ben Montoya here. Sean and Maggie are still bomber, as always. How have you been? I haven't seen you in a while.
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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Mar 29, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
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Out with the old, in with the new. Tomes change. Dont dwell in the past.
Ok, thats what some people would say.
NOT ME!! HOly crapbags!!!Why would anyone defile a rock like Half Dome? Too many self righteous types in the climbing community now.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 29, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
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Wow!
Brilliant!
Two cable routes!
You could make one the "up" and the other the "down"...
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nature
climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Mar 29, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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just grid bolt the entire thing and be done with it. It's the direction of climbing so why fight it? In fact, for the routes that don't go I suggest bolting on holds. Just be sure to keep the red route under 5.10+ so I can send.
I'm gonna have to read the article I suppose. I'm curious.
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