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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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socalbolter, are you Louie Anderson from South Cali in real life?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Yes, that's me.
On a side note, I ran into someone up in Shuteye last season who was talking about a hard, unclimbed crack line up by (or on) Elephant Rock in the Valley. Anyone here know anything about that one? Who's working on it? Climbed yet?
As I said before, I have no doubt that there are several hard seam and crack lines yet to be found in the Valley. There's just too much rock and too many hidden faces and gullies for it not to be so.
I'm glad to see folks like Beth are still focusing on harder "trad" lines. While I'm a full-fledged sport climber these days, I'm always happy to see the free climbing achievements of Mike Anderson, Sean Jones, Sonnie Trotter and others. The recent long route in the backcountry of Yosemite (Growing Up) will hopefully open the eyes of folks as to how much potential there really still is back there. I imagine the rest of the lines on that face will be more difficult, but I have no doubt that Beth, Tommy, or any of the other strong Valley cracksters would be able to ferret out some great lines on that wall. Looking forward to seeing what happens in the next few years.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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OK, I re-read Mick's post. I see, football vs. football. The difference is the view from two sides of the pond.
I still stay Headpointing can't be trad because it starts at the top.
I can see 'easy' 5.13, perhaps work a crux or two. .13+, another universe. All I can do is wonder wtf 5.14 is all about. No matter how much I trained, I'd never be able to touch it, I know.
Some folks have talent. They apply hard work and do the impossible. It may be that years will pass before this monster gets a 2nd.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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So after lying about your own 5.14 ascents and manufacturing routes at Shuteye Ridge after you couldn't climb them you want to rain on Beth's parade?
If the redpoint was certain, why would anyone climb?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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I've never lied about an ascent - period!
Manufacturing routes? Yes, I enhanced a couple of individual holds in 1000's of feet of new climbing I did there. I regret that now (as said and posted elsewhere) and don't plan to repeat that practice in the future.
Neither of those have anything to do with this topic.
As for the redpoint being certain - it's not. But if a climber has the requisite skills and puts the required time in - it certainly is a much more attainable goal. As for your question of why climb at all. If you've gone through the redpoint process on a route that really pushes your limit, you know first hand how much you learn and how much better your climbing becomes through the process. By pitting ourselves against a hard route, we force ourselves into an improve to succeed scenario. This challenge is the reason (I believe) that we climb - at least on hard routes. When it comes to new routes like Beth's this is compounded by the potential to succeed on something at a new standard for the area (and much of the world). This raises the stakes even higher and the personal reward for success (and the desire to pursue that goal) is even greater.
As for raining on Beth's parade, you couldn't be further from the truth. I've done everything I could in every post in this thread to give her the kudos she deserves for this. My comments were in response to Bachar's comments about "projecting" a route versus the old school "trad" definition of working everything from the ground up. The gist of my comments are that what Beth did on this route is what makes up the whole "redpoint" process and is the way that most high-end redpoints are achieved these days. The process allows talented and strong climbers to succeed on routes much harder than what they would normally be able to do in a handful of tries or in the same time frame when working the route ground-up.
Once again, I will say congrats to Beth. This is a wonderful accomplishment and a huge feather in her cap. She and Tommy (as a team and individually) remain at the forefront of high-end Valley free climbing and I doubt this will be the last we hear from them in that venue.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Too Cool !!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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I was just going to post the picture, but got beaten to it.
Great looking line. Am always impressed by lines that are THE line when looking at a face or formation. Doesn't seem like this will ever have any neighboring routes. Makes this one all the more aesthetic.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Wow. In one of those articles referenced is says that kauk worked on this line and in the update at the la sportiva site it says "others" who have worked the line grade it 14c ish.
Anybody know what Mr. Ron has to say about this route? Any other inside history from the ST ranks about those "others" who worked it?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Speaking of Tommy, is that him belaying in the picture?
Or rather, what is that belaying in the picture?
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TRNovice
Trad climber
UK
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Great photo and unbelievable line - congratulations to Beth from the UK.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 11, 2008 - 12:55am PT
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http://bigupblog.com/
More of the stories and stills from the upcoming Dosage V.
(just copying Louie's post on rockclimbing.com)
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Mar 11, 2008 - 10:59am PT
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Finally a picture! Yowza, looks harder than even Sherrie's Crack.
Headpoints/redpoints/projecting yadda yadda yadda. . . .
What matters most is the SHOES you are wearing (and to a lesser extent your clothes).
So go get some Acopas and climb like JB.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Mar 11, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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This is just so cool!
Congratulations to Beth for all her hard work and perseverance.
That girl can really, really, Climb.
Awesome!
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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I love how cute and demure she always looks.
Rockclimbing is so cool because of this. To be able to be at the pinnacle of the sport, and not have to be some juiced out, 7 foot tall, aggressive hardman.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Mar 15, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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Rehearsed or not, madprops to her for placing her gear at all. People don't even place their own DRAWS on "redpoints" anymore. Kauk certainly had no problem preplacing gear on his recent 5.14 cracks and people were quick to call the grade "too hard" to place gear at.
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Double D
climber
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Mar 15, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
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RIGHT ON BETH! Impressive indeed. I can't even dream in the 5.14 realm.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 15, 2012 - 03:24am PT
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Hmm
really cool thread.
What she did was hard and very well earned
What BACHAR said was honest and has just basic commen sense going for it.
Trad lead?
I guess so..
but hell with so much rehersal .. how much trad is needed,,,
14c.. f*#king impressive period on toprope
calling it a trad climb and PRing the hell out of it...
Understandable if trying to make a living I guess.. but .. a bit of a stretch..
in the end it's climbing .. too bad it needs money to continue...
climbing is cool and this was waaaay cool... except for trying to equate it with TRAD
I have no idea what to call it...
hell she didnt bolt it KUDOS!!.. and she did take it a BIG level up and lead it instead of TR...
So I guess call it heavily rehearsed 5.14c lead of a thin crack in Yosemite.
same sh#t I guess
BEER makes me deliberate on stupid Minutia.. perhaps I should have posted this on the friday drinking thread
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